A versatile piece par excellence, we now see parkas on every street corner.
It has become the joker that you pull out from the bottom of your sleeve - or your wardrobe - when the weather conditions require it, or just when you want to be sure of having style. Finally... you still have to know how to choose it and wear it.
History, product, style and brands... You will know everything about the parka!
Where does the parka come from?
Like many emblematic pieces of our wardrobe, the parka has an eminent past behind it. His story is even close to a true epic.
Take out your time machine and head to the beginning of the 20th century.
The pole jacket
In the early 1910s, the great Norwegian explorer and sailor Roald Amundsen led an unprecedented expedition: he was supposedly the first man to reach the South Pole.
To get there, he dressed in a large fur and sealskin jacket, with a hood, and stopping at mid-thigh.
From left to right: portrait of Roald Amundsen in a "parka", then his team during an expedition.
According to legend, he discovered this type of jacket during his travels in the Canadian Far North, Greenland or the North Pole.
There he meets Inuit and Aleut populations who, for decades, have resisted the harsh climatic conditions of these territories by wearing similar equipment (jackets sewn from seal guts).
From left to right: a traditional Inuit outfit (the ancestor of the parka), then a descendant of the Eskimo tribes of the Canadian Far North (still in a parka but more contemporary).
The word parka comes from the Inuit-Aleut word " kamleika ", which later became "parka".
Entry into the military locker room
At the end of the 1940s, the American Air Force began polar explorations.
Inspired by Eskimo equipment
Later, this jacket would be modified for use by American soldiers during the Korean War. These will be lighter thanks to the use of cotton and removable linings, wider and produced in larger quantities: this is the US - M51 or "Fishtail" parka , because its back ended in a fishtail.
From left to right, reproduction of the USAF N-3B parka model, and the M-51 Fishtail.
From battlefields to urban jungle
In the 1960s, the parka left the ranks of the army.
English mods adopt it and wear it on their costume, moving in groups while riding their two-wheelers
Example of photos representing the English mod movement.
Finally, in the 80s, the grunge movement took over this very special jacket.
After having come so far, the parka is today a classic, having benefited from a youthful treatment along the way
What about the use of fur?
Historically, the "first" parkas were made from fur, which explains its presence on high-end models.
For some, the animal cause prevails. For others, the thermal comfort of fur is unrivaled.
For now, it is up to each person to make their choices according to their convictions.
Who can wear a parka?
While its military heritage is beyond doubt, the parka has crossed the strata of society and spread to all groups. It's also a piece that designers and couturiers have been interested in since the 90s.
The designer parka: Junn J Fashion Show - Spring/Summer 2017.
We will then find relatively classic parkas which will fit perfectly into a fairly formal look , which can even be worn over a suit and tie.
Military origin obliges, we also imagine it worn in workwear or streetwear -inspired styles : hoodies , very raw denim, boots or rather sneakers... The possibilities are endless.
Of course, we also find it in casual silhouettes , for example accompanied by a raw shirt, a very simple sweatshirt and sneakers.
Below, you will find other look ideas on how to wear a parka.
How to choose your parka?
Here are some tips to consider during your future search for the perfect piece.
The traditional characteristics of the parka
Although there are now countless designs, it is still good to remember the important elements that constitute a “real” parka:
- Mid-thigh length . In the case of the traditional "fishtail" model, the back of the parka will be slightly larger and end in a fishtail.
- A water-repellent and/or waterproof outer fabric to resist rain.
- The presence of a hood , possibly equipped with fur.
- A closure system and a sufficiently insulating lining to protect from the cold .
- Two to four side pockets .
- Shoulders that do not sag and dress the silhouette correctly .
Composition and design
In terms of materials, we will find a main composition in cotton. Other fibers will be added including polyester, polyamide and more rarely nylon or elastane.
These fibers will have the function of ensuring the waterproofness of the piece and providing comfort . Indeed, the parka is an outdoor garment designed for movement, which must be adapted to movement.
It is above all a practical piece: if we often advise you to avoid frills, we can indulge in more details here
Whether it's a camo pattern, admittedly less versatile, or leather inserts, you will find several variations around the parka. Just keep in mind that it will be worn in an urban context.
Also consider your body type . If you are heavy, avoid overly padded/quilted parkas. Prefer a thinner lining, or less bulky materials than down and feathers, which still provide good insulation.
Conversely, if you have a rather slender and thin physique, a large parka will add thickness to your upper body , allowing you to sport an advantageous and defined silhouette.
The example here of a Nigel Cabourn parka, fitted thanks to the presence of a drawstring at the waist. Even if this big parka thickens the silhouette, the bending allows you to find balance.
Depending on the model, your parka will be more or less fitted. Some of them will have an adjustable bending system, while others will not.
I advise you to choose a piece that can be bent: the insulating power will be greater .
A financial investment
Since it’s a “big” piece – by that I mean the equivalent of a coat – you have to be ready to pay the price.
Attention ! It is not uncommon to find all-synthetic parkas
So be careful not to be fooled by paying more for the brand than the product. Also ask yourself the usefulness of the purchase: “is it cold enough in my city for this model?”.
The example of the Canada Goose is interesting to get an idea of the quality/price ratio for this type of piece. You will find in Benoit's article a whole study of the brand and its coats.
For an effective winter parka, with a careful design, consider that you will have to pay around 600 euros . As always, if your piggy bank allows it, you can treat yourself to exceptional models starting from 1000 euros.
For more spring-like parkas, without lining, especially designed to protect against rain and wind, prices will be lower. There are some very nice products starting at 200 euros.
Finally, don't hesitate to buy your parka during sales periods if you can. However, it is good to point out that certain brands do not have sales, particularly on their high-end products (Canada Goose, Arc'Teryx).
How to wear your parka?
I offer you a decryption - not exhaustive - of different successful looks that incorporate a parka.
The parka that is self-sufficient
Here we have two examples of looks in which the parka is the strong and central piece . The stylistic bias is so strong that it is not necessary to add other pieces that are too visible.
The parka in workwear mode
On the left, the brown parka, rather fitted, outlines the silhouette in dark tones. The denim shirt and pine green socks brighten up the look harmoniously. Further to the right, with an example of successful layering : the parka is worn over a plum jacket and a simple white t-shirt. The colors work very well together, accentuating the casualness of the look. The boots complete the look, bringing a more raw touch.
The simple and effective parka
A parka is an item that instantly elevates a much simpler silhouette . Think about it for an outfit made entirely of basics.
Same observation with slightly more formal influences.
The parka for a more dressy style
For once, the look is nourished by contrasts: we contrast a formal suit with a very casual coat. The effect is all the more marked if the parka has numerous details, such as fur in particular. In any case, be sure to choose a relatively fitted cut for this type of combination.
Editor's selection
Because there are more and more parka models every year, we have selected products available at the moment - for those who would like to invest right away.
Benoit
Benoît, for his part, opted for many different pieces from more or less well-known brands. Japanese canvas, techwear, Ventile
The Lighthouse Ventile Parka Jacket from the Private White VC brand
The model from Private White VC , one of Ben's favorite English brands, with this beautiful model in Ventile.
The Schaffer parka from the Cadot brand
Cadot has released a beautiful parka in Ventile, which will easily brave the elements for you.
The Ventile Arctic Primaloft parka from the Musto brand
For the more adventurous among you, Musto has released an incredible model with Primaloft Gold insulation.
The Nunk parka from Norse Projects
The Nunk parka is an iconic model from Norse Projects , sometimes in Gore-Tex depending on the season.
The Stranger Hooded Coat N/P Taffeta Gore-Tex parka - 3L from the Nonnative brand
A Gore-Tex parka from the Japanese brand Nonnative , waterproof enough to withstand a deluge.
The Blackboard Cloth Field parka from the Meanswhile brand
A sublime parka from Meanswhile , a confidential but very cutting-edge Japanese label.
The Gore-Tex parka from the Nanamica brand
Classic among classics, the Gore-Tex parka from Nanamica ! They use this material wonderfully, with an outer fabric that looks a lot like cotton.
The Monitor parka from the Arc'Teryx Veilance brand
And finally, the Monitor model, in Gore-Tex Pro, from the Arc'Teryx Veilance brand. The Roll's of the parka (and the price that goes with it).
Raf
Our editor-in-chief, accustomed to grunge inspirations, has chosen to select designer pieces – black, of course – for the most daring among you.
The Gentle Black parka from the Ann Demeulemeester brand
Resolutely creative, this black parka from Ann Demeulemeester is interesting for its details and its almost austere finish.
The Hooded Parka from the Raf Simons brand
Quite simple, this message parka from Raf Simons will suit fans of streetwear and hype.
The Fly Parka Black Groove from the Our Legacy brand
Completely waterproof, this short and light parka from Our Legacy is perfect for frequent and practical use. Drawstring at the hood, double-slider zip closure.
Nicolò
Our chief curator has selected a wide range of products, for more moderate or totally crazy budgets.
The Stockholm Petrol Blue parka from the Stutterheim brand
This Sutterheim parka is interesting: Swedish rubber rainwear, very good quality, and completely affordable.
The Waterproof Fishtail Parka from the Atelier Ace
This Alpha Industries X Ace Hotel collaboration is completely legitimate: a successful mix between a historic brand of military parts and a fairly original e-shop.
The M-1951 parka from The Real McCoy's London brand
A very accurate reproduction of the original military fishtail from The Real McCoy's .
The Long Fitted parka - fox and rabbit fur - from the Yves Salomon brand
The choice that defies reason and gives in to passion: A Yves Salomon in fur (lining and hood). A luxury version of the parka with a perfect design.
Axel
For my part, my choice fell on pieces that mix trend and quality. Enough to ride mechanics while parading in the street.
The Cameraman Fishtail Solid Army parka from the Nigel Cabourn brand
A beautiful parka from Nigel Cabourn with a minimal design with the exception of sophisticated details: the metal buttons, the clip closure, the oversized pockets, the interior vest.
The Mountain parka - US Army from the Monitaly brand
At first glance, this revisited Monitaly parka seems difficult to wear. However, worn with relatively simple pieces it will give you a strong and assertive style. The khaki shades are very well thought out, as is the slightly anarchic design (closure, differences in materials, placement of the pockets).
The Marithé François Girbaud down parka
A brand that I really like, Marithé + François Girbaud offers us a padded technical parka with internal straps. Sobriety, quality of materials, successful design (especially on the contrasting shoulders), it is a durable and safe product.
The Arctic Parka DF from the Woolrich brand
A classic Woolrich parka. No frills, classic and effective. We had already done a test of the brand, here to see what it was like.
Alex
For his part, our community manager completely let loose by selecting the top of the range parka. Empty wallets, refrain!
The Moritz parka from the Mackage brand on the La Canadienne e-shop
Made from rabbit and raccoon fur, this parka from the Mackage brand on La Canadienne is real protection against the extreme cold.
The fur and canvas parka from the Oakwood brand on the La Canadienne e-shop
A classic parka , but with a fur hood that adds bulk.
The Cameraman Fishtail Spilt Army parka from the Nigel Cabourn brand
An original Nigel Cabourn model, derived from the fishtail, two-material with the worked details typical of the pieces produced by this label.
Brand selection
Finding a gem can take time given the overwhelming supply that exists on the market: today, almost all brands are starting to make parkas with all their might. We end up not really finding our way; the prices displayed, sometimes misleading, making the search even more vague.
I have made a selection of brands for you - some specializing in parkas and winter coats - so that you can find what you are looking for, both in terms of budget and functionality.
- Nigel Cabourn : Brand offering very aesthetic products, with real creative work and a fairly original artistic line. If the prices are a little high (as is often the case for brands of this type), the product remains very high quality. You will find winter parkas for around 1000 pounds.
- Kanuk : Quebec brand with recognized know-how, their products are completely designed for Canadian winters. The prices (around 800 euros for a parka) are justified. Classic and timeless pieces.
- Canada Goose : A well-known Canadian brand, we now consider that the price is justified given the know-how behind it. Parkas starting from 700 to 800 euros which can climb up to 1500 euros for the warmest coats, designed to withstand the harshest climatic conditions.
- The North Face : A well-established brand today, particularly in the outdoor sector, the quality/price ratio is suitable and the products do the job, which protect well from the cold and whose designs are well thought out.
- Patagonia : A brand that defends real CSR values. His pieces are more sportswear oriented, with an excellent quality/price ratio (from 200 to 800 euros for the most elaborate pieces).
- Aigle : A very suitable quality/price ratio (count between 200 and 350 euros for a parka), their workwear-inspired models are a sure value for those who want to treat themselves to a pretty parka for a reasonable price.
- Yves Salomon : Luxury parkas of very good quality with prices that soar beyond 2000 euros, with unique know-how in fur.
- Monitaly : A promotion of American silhouettes, very well made products that you will not find everywhere. A decent quality/price ratio (parkas at 600 euros) for really interesting designs.
- The Real McCoy's : Japanese brand whose guideline is the reproduction and reinterpretation of the most beautiful pieces of the military wardrobe. The prices are high (count 800 euros for a parka), but completely justified given the materials used and the know-how.
- Moncler : A luxury brand well known for its down jackets, this brand is credited with putting a lot of work into its designs and the aesthetics of its pieces. Although some prices may be a little overpriced, the product is otherwise of good quality. For parka models, count on 900 euros minimum (and up to 2500 euros for the most expensive).
- Arc'Teryx : High-end brand of sports equipment (especially mountain equipment), the technicality of the clothing and the quality of the materials justify the high prices (up to 1,500 euros for a parka).
- Carhartt : A historic brand in the workwear sector, pieces from this brand have prices ranging from 150 to 300 euros (for winter parkas). The quality/price ratio is good, the designs are, moreover, simple and well executed. Good brand for purchasing a first model.
- Woolrich : A sober and refined design for very functional pieces. The prices are relatively high (around 800 euros) but it is a relevant investment because their products are very well made.
- Nobis : With excellent technical expertise, the parka models of this brand (which we tested here ) are very high quality for prices generally starting around 450 dollars for the simplest pieces to almost 2000 dollars for the most elaborated. In addition, the designs are sober but very well thought out.
Without forgetting the BonneGueule brand
Here you will find our collection of coats and parkas :
The final word...
As with any winter coat , you will have to invest in a pretty, effective and well-made piece. It is therefore necessary to pay attention to the composition, avoiding too much synthetic materials.
The design of the room must also be taken into consideration: if nothing prohibits the various options, for a purchase that will last over time, consider a rather minimalist cut.
A versatile and strong piece, it has become a basic in the men's wardrobe, hence the importance of investing intelligently.
