Tips: How to dress in a BUSINESS / TAILORING style?

Have you ever wondered why, in 10 years, jackets have become 20 centimeters shorter and why our silhouettes seem to have melted so much? The tradition of tailoring escapes the vagaries of fashion.

This is probably why your grandfather was able to maintain his presence from year to year with a tweed jacket that may have seemed normal to you, and sometimes too long and too large for him.

Tailoring is both a craft, that of master tailors, and a quest for classic elegance specific to each man. But it is as a clothing style that we will study it. By that I mean that you can adapt tailoring to your tastes, and mix it with other influences (the purists will scream, but too bad!).

Tailoring uses timeless and always elegant pieces like jackets, shirts, and pants other than jeans (cold wool, flannel, or corduroy pants). As you might expect: no semi-slim jeans, sneakers, or t-shirts here.

On the other hand, rarer pieces will be invited to the party, such as the tweed jacket that every good gentleman wears in the countryside. This is also the case for somewhat forgotten accessories such as pocket squares and buttonholes.

The principles of sartorial art

Two main factors can explain the sustainability of the tailoring style . The first is the almost mathematical knowledge of the human silhouette and the different cuts. The second is to be codified according to well-defined rules.

Let me explain! First of all, the same pieces come back: jacket, shirt, pants. In addition, the color palette is limited, mainly composed of white, blue and gray, plus a few tones of brown sprinkled with touches of brighter colors.

Far from limiting creativity, these rules and well-defined color palettes allow the expression of an infinite number of nuances, gradients, and patterns.

To give you an idea, there are literally hundreds of shades of gray , not to mention all the possibilities offered by different weaves. A cool wool is well suited for a tweed, for example.

It is a style that is aimed at men in search of true elegance (which can be as discreet and old-fashioned as flamboyant and modern). But also at those who love noble materials and craftsmanship done upstream.

Trend and streetwear are two words that are completely banned here. If there was a motto of tailoring style: "To each his own ideal garment, regardless of fashion."

The criteria for choosing a good men's suit

There are many criteria for finding the ideal garment. We play on all the possible dimensions of a piece to find the perfect match with the morphology of its wearer.

• For a jacket, there is a real question about the fit, the width of the shoulders and the length of the jacket .

• When it comes to pants, we ask ourselves a thousand questions about their length, their width at the thighs and their opening at the ankle, or even their waist height.

This questioning is also found in the design and the finishes.

For a jacket, we focus on the width and length of the lapels, the assembly and work on the shoulders, the presence or absence of a chest pocket, the number and location of the buttons, etc.

Finally, we are interested in the pattern that helps define the silhouette: stripes, checks or chevrons, in multiple variations.

The shape and width of the lapels, the number of buttons, the design of the pockets are all subtle details that can change the look of a jacket.

The high-end details of tailoring

For those looking to move upmarket, here's what you should expect if you have a bit of a budget of at least €400 for a jacket for example, but it's easy to go up much higher!

Beautiful materials

In fact, if the fabric seems completely ordinary to you, there is no point.

Mind you, this assumes you know what a completely bland, run-of-the-mill fabric looks like...

Also get into the habit of looking at the composition of the label, there should only be natural materials (wool, a little cashmere, etc.), except for the lining.

Neat buttons, not vulgar plastic. They can be made of horn or less classic materials like wood.

Beautiful tailoring details

For a suit to be truly durable, you need at least semi-canvassed material, which gives the jacket a better drape.

Very clean and sometimes open buttonholes. The lower you go in range, the more sloppy the buttonholes are, sometimes reduced to the bare minimum.

On the other hand, when you go upmarket, they are very clear and often with a slight relief. Again, do not obsess over these small details. The cut, the material and the color remain the elements on which you must be uncompromising.

Tailoring art and morphology

"To each his own body type, to each his own clothing". To really take advantage of the tailoring style, you need to identify precisely and realistically your body type , and especially the way in which you want to highlight it.

Are you looking to grow?

To look more robust?

Or, on the contrary, to tone down your slender figure?

A few more centimeters...

To make you taller (and slimmer), you need verticality: this is achieved through patterns (vertical stripes), finishes (long, thin lapels), construction (high armholes and fitted sleeves), and even matching (a top and bottom in a similar color, connected by a simple belt, so as not to create a break and therefore a horizontal line in the silhouette).

And for a more robust physique...

Conversely, to appear shorter or taller, look for horizontality through patterns (horizontal-striped shirts and ties), accessories (tie clip, pocket square), construction (wide and short lapels), colors, and adjustments you can make yourself like hems or stacking. .

Sartorial art, a long-term project

Imagine your wardrobe as a coherent whole, a sum of timeless pieces all dedicated to highlighting your body shape and able to respond to any situation, from the most formal to the most relaxed.

A sustainable wardrobe

Abandon the consumerist logic of short-term purchasing, return to the habits of your grandparents by buying pieces that will last you for years. Both in terms of quality and finishes.

Of course, you can still use these pieces in modern outfits, just remember to mix styles.

Quality is in the details

Know how to identify the forgotten signs that will distinguish a ready-to-wear piece from a tailored piece, as we saw for the jacket. The finishing work is also important: flap pockets are more expensive to make, especially if they are buttoned.

Also pay attention to the number of seams per centimeter and the quality of the interior seams. The bottom line: the more expensive a piece is, the more subtle its signs of quality.

Timeless clothing

Finally, sort through your wardrobe and identify these timeless classics of the men's wardrobe: a well-cut jacket, neither too long nor too short , with two or three buttons.

Similarly, banish those super-fitted shirts made of synthetic materials that are unwearable in the summer. The same goes for three-button stand-up collars.

For trousers, avoid crazy cuts like carrots (unless you have really muscular thighs and a slim waist), drop crotch and skinny; invest in sober wool trousers, chosen in charcoal or navy tones. To tap into eccentricity, aim for Prince of Wales patterns.

It's possible to take casualness a step further with a linen suit, but that requires that it's impeccably cut and that you have a solid wardrobe behind it...

Tailoring style, for what type of man?

The tailoring style is aimed at those who operate in a very codified and formal environment. It will be perfect if you operate in the world of finance or consulting. It is then necessary to differentiate two things:

• tailoring style outside a strict professional context (mismatched pants and jacket for example)

• the tailoring style as you imagine it, namely an impeccable suit, and the little accessories that go with it.

There is a brand that strives to perfectly illustrate this style, it is Husbands, whose wardrobe will illustrate our remarks:

Respect the implicit codes

Be careful though, your hierarchical position will allow you more or less eccentricity. Don't abuse it when dealing with a rather conservative boss.

To properly calibrate your outfit, you can play on several variables: colors, patterns and accessories (cufflinks and pocket squares, often reserved for senior executives in the company).

Geoffrey once even found himself working in a consultancy firm where suspenders were the sole preserve of the manager, and any attempt to wear them would have been frowned upon.

Learning the codes offers several advantages: mastering a notion of proportion foreign to fashion but adapted to your body shape (because the right cut is essential in this style, much more than following a trend).

You will also develop an innate sense of playing with patterns, to create subtle contrasts that will highlight your outfits. You will also ensure the longevity of your wardrobe by choosing timeless pieces, which will last you for years thanks to a quality of manufacture of which you will be able to recognize the most subtle signs.

It is an essential step that must be taken at some point, a bit like music theory in music: tailoring provides a healthy framework on which to base one's style.

Knowing how to adapt to the context

However, a nice formal suit will not find its place in more relaxed contexts . For example, if you are still a student, high school student or you work in a more casual environment (creative, graphic design, etc.), people around you may not understand "what you are playing at".

The nature of the pieces will be too serious and too out of place in your environment, and the notions of timeless proportions will remain misunderstood.

A jacket of a normal length will, for example, be considered old-fashioned. Just apply some basic principles to have a silhouette as highlighted as possible, this will already prevent you from having the same Celio hoodie with extra wide stripes as your classmate.

The budget question

You will inevitably be limited in terms of budget: buying the jacket that you will still wear at 30 will cost you a lot, and this is not a concern that you should have right away if you do not have a fixed income.

Just try to cut back on unnecessary expenses and focus on inexpensive but style-forward pieces, timeless pieces like a pair of mid-grey flannel pants.

Also practice the 80/20 logic : a nice shirt that you wear often will be much more valuable than four shirts that you wear rarely, without real pleasure.

Armed with these few rules, you will have a head start when choosing your first suit for your internships and interviews.

It's better to treat yourself to a really nice shirt that you'll wear often and that will last, rather than buying three or four shirts that you don't really like.

The transition from quality to quantity

Sustainability also rhymes with durability. Beyond this perfect harmony between design and morphology, we will also look for real manufacturing quality.

This culture of quality has disappeared with the rise of the consumer society: the contemporary man owns five suits bought in supermarkets, manufactured in factories, with a lifespan of a few years at most.

Our grandparents had only one suit , worn every day without fail but ordered from the local tailor who made it with devotion and without compromise over several weeks: a true love of a job well done.

This authentic and unadorned quality is characterized by a discreet refinement:

• a canvas jacket;

• buttonholes by hand;

• a Milanese;

• horn buttons or even hand-sewn felt.

These are details for connoisseurs, but never ostentatious. This is what makes this style so appreciated by lovers of beautiful, timeless things.

Start gently

Regarding these quality indicators, I can only recommend that you approach them with a certain amount of perspective. Not everyone necessarily has the means to pay for a canvassed suit for €1600.

If you are financially limited and the high end is inaccessible to you, focus on two things.

• the cut , it must obviously highlight your body without exaggeration, but there I am not telling you anything,

• color , there is no point in buying an expensive jacket if it is black (no black in your wardrobe, except for very nice pieces or suits dedicated to funerals)

Never mind the hand-stitched buttonholes and horsehair interfacing. That'll be for when you have a bit more budget.

If, for example, you have a budget of €200, don't pass up a well-cut jacket in a nice colour just because it has plastic buttons where you would have wanted horn buttons. .

If you are a student and need a first suit for an internship, you are particularly concerned and will have no other choice but to go for entry-level ready-to-wear.

So in practice, how do you start with tailoring style?

The jacket

It all starts with the jacket, the basic building block. It will initially be blue or gray, to make sure it can be worn easily. The material will be wool, and that's it.

Be aware that wool flannel (wool with a soft and slightly hairy appearance) gives a very elegant look to wool. Under this jacket, a light shirt, often white or very pale blue. You will stand out thanks to a beautiful tie.

In this regard, knitted ties are often underestimated, even though they bring a cachet that contrasts with the ordinary silk twill tie.

The pants

Pants are the piece that can easily pose a problem, as there are seasons when the offer is uneven and not very provided by brands. But for some time now, a more colorful offer is coming back (garnet, brick, burgundy, turquoise, sea green or duck blue). I can only encourage you to try these new colors, combined with a very neutral colored jacket.

And you will see that very easily, these shades will add a most pleasant touch.

On the brand side, it's really on a case-by-case basis, but most brands offer sober pants depending on the collections. Let's mention COS which is consistent with timeless wool pants, or Gant Rugger, Gant's casual line, which has a very nice wardrobe if you like the tailoring style .

Finally, think about tailor-made, not necessarily the most expensive if you choose your size carefully.

The assembly

Putting all your pieces together is relatively easy , as shirts and pants are often neutral. As such, you can easily pair a bright red knitted tie with an elaborate jacket.

Shoes, a clutch and possibly a pair of colorful socks will complete an outfit with touches of color.