I've been wanting to write an article about the different qualities of down for a long time. Indeed, buying a down jacket or a parka in winter in order to stay warm is a reflex that many of us have... and it's an excellent reflex, because nothing keeps you warmer than a down jacket. quality .
However, it is a market where there is food and drink; where not all brands are transparent about the characteristics of their products and where it is therefore easy to be fooled by buying a part that is too expensive for its intrinsic value.
What is the difference between a high-consumption down jacket at €50 and a more expensive model?
Being naturally chilly, I have always been very interested in outerwear. With Benoît, one of the subjects we discuss the most when the cold arrives is the quality of thermal insulation of the pieces in our wardrobe.
So I wanted to see things more clearly, understand how to recognize a quality duvet and whether it requires paying more than 500 euros for a piece... Because if you have been following the blog for a while, you know that I I have already tested a Patagonia parka (550 euros) and an Aigle parka (at the same price).
Two pieces of good quality but also very expensive, not everyone can pay that much. And then Uniqlo flooded the market with its €50 down jackets, so “what’s the point of investing more in this type of piece?” , you will tell me.
This is what we are going to see together, taking as an object of study a down jacket from the RAB brand , the Electron model. It is this piece which will be the common thread of this article.
Clearly differentiate the outer material of the down jacket and its down padding
These are the two essential components in a down item like the down jacket.
They deserve your full attention because there are a lot of things left unsaid, misuse of information but, above all, they are the ones who must determine the price of the down jacket.
By analyzing them better, you will know if the down jacket that catches your eye is at the right price .
And yes... I like flashy orange!
Down: feather-down distribution, coating and filling power
What type of down?
We must pay attention to the notion of down by differentiating that of duck and goose. Goose down is denser , which gives it greater loft: it will keep you warmer.
So check the inside label (the composition sticker, the one where the care instructions are also found) of the origin of the down.
Down/feather distribution
The down in the RAB down jacket is made up of 90% goose down and 10% feathers . This is a very rare distribution on the market and which reflects its high quality (note that 100% down is technically almost impossible to obtain).
Many brands do not reach 80% down in their filling.
And many others lie about the distribution of their coin, which has prompted some independent monitoring bodies to step up checks. As a point of reference, don't buy a piece that has less than 75% down: that's the bare minimum .
Down treatment
Down's worst enemy is rain, because it absorbs a lot of water, which it accumulates in quantity and has great difficulty evacuating. Damp down is down that completely loses its insulating properties, and can even become moldy.
On my RAB down jacket, it is a hydrophobic Nikwax coated down (Nikwax is the world leading company in maintenance and waterproofing products). This somewhat barbaric phrase simply means that the down is treated against humidity.
In other words, down absorbs less water than untreated down and therefore retains its loft. It dries more quickly and prevents moisture build-up. Finally, it does not contain any fluorocarbons.
Another important concept: swelling power
The power fill (= fill power) is an essential measurement for judging the quality of a down. It represents its thermal insulation capacity (and therefore its capacity to keep you warm) by trapping a certain volume of air (in this case, the heat released by your body).
The more the down is able to capture and store air, the more it will expand and the warmer it will keep you . To keep it simple (and above all to avoid long technical explanations): on the market, we find down jackets with a PF between 300 and 900 (Rab recently released a down jacket with a PF of 1000!).
The higher the PF, the better the thermal insulation and the warmer it will keep you. With a PF of 800, my Rab down jacket is very well placed!
Powerfill test which shows the capacity of down to store and trap hot air (you can see that on the left the down does not capture anything at all)...
With all these elements, you will understand that the sole notification of the “feather-down” distribution is not sufficient to judge its quality. Unfortunately, it is often the only one that appears on the composition labels of the parts. So don't hesitate to call on a seller and ask them as many questions as possible or contact the brands directly.
Origin of down and respect for living things
Finally, there is also the origin of the down and the ethical aspect to take into account. Indeed, recently, many scandals have broken out regarding brands that purchased down taken from animals in atrocious conditions.
Rab down meets the code of ethics of the European Association of Feather and Bedding Industries . It comes from Eastern countries and was taken from dead geese, then intended for food.
Clarification: these geese were not industrially force-fed.
It is in England, in Sheffield (city of origin of the brand) that the stuffing of the bags is done. They are then sent to the factory in Indonesia (it is there that the material - which comes from Japan - is stitched).
The outer material: the jewel of Pertex Endurance technology
Pertex fabrics were invented by an English company located in Manchester (it's not just football there), Perseverance Mills. Upon its liquidation in 2005, the company sold its Pertex branch to the Japanese group Mitsui & Co.
Diagram that sums up the magical powers of Pertex: water-repellent and windproof.
The Pertex Endurance reference is most often used for sleeping bags or down jackets. It is a very water-resistant and water-repellent fabric (be careful, it is not waterproof, in fact no down jacket is), and windproof (the down is not filled with fresh air from outside, but only from the heat given off by your body).
Above all, it is much more breathable than certain waterproof membranes , which is essential to avoid feeling humidity setting in, especially when you sweat.
Pertex Endurance combined with Nikwax-treated goose down is a guarantee of feeling like you're in a heat capsule.
Concretely, when it is very, very cold and I leave the house, there is a very short moment when I will feel the freshness outside, the time for the down to swell and store my body heat. It takes approximately 30 seconds, and gradually the heat sets in!
Construction and details of the Rab down jacket
This down jacket has two very large, particularly practical side pockets. You can fit a lot of things in it and, above all, the YKK zips ensure optimal sliding: at no time does the material get caught in the zip. The zip sliders even have a small plastic tip which makes them easier to hold.
The pockets are therefore easily accessible and you don't have to spend three hours trying to open them with one hand. It's simple and well executed.
The large side pockets are very practical because they are easily accessible!
Nice detail: the little plastic tip tied onto the zip slider. Another very important detail: the offset seams and the down bags of different sizes allow better insulation, avoiding thermal bridges.
To my great regret, there is only one interior pocket. It's too little when you have a lot of important objects (wallet, keys, metro card, etc.). Note the presence of reinforcement points on either side of the opening and the YKK zip.
Practical interior pocket. Note the reinforcement points on either side of the pocket.
The central zip is also from the YKK brand. Important element: the interior insulation flap which reinforces the insulating power of the room. Nice detail, at the neck, a soft jersey knitted yoke keeps you warm.
Central zip with interior insulation flap.
Very soft yoke for your neck.
The hood is well designed. This is a very important point because it will insulate you even more from the cold and especially from the rain. Many hoods are poorly fitted: either too large and therefore impractical when you walk in the street (your field of vision is reduced); is too small and therefore useless. There, I find the proportions just right!
We also have a small cap visor: so here, I admit that I don't know its practical use... In use, I still recognize that it gives strength to the hood and prevents it from crashes. Like the zips on the side pockets, the drawstrings are easily accessible and you don't have to spend three hours adjusting your hood.
Drawstring very easy to grab and conveniently placed!
Note the perfect proportions of the hood. Easy to look left and right before crossing the street. The plus: the visor which ensures good support for the hood.
Finally, the drawstrings at the bottom of the piece are very practical: they allow the down jacket to be tightened when it is windy, preventing air from infiltrating... Unlike many brands which place drawstrings tightening at the waist to refine the silhouette of the piece (which I find unnecessary).
The drawstring to completely insulate yourself from the cold.
Test: the RAB men's down jacket
Lightness and comfort
The Electron down jacket is very light : it weighs 500 grams, which is very appreciable. My Aigle parka was very heavy (my Patagonia a little less), and not very compressible. It was a real weak point. It's very annoying on a daily basis
So when I picked up my Rab down jacket for the first time, I was very pleasantly surprised! It's very light and comfortable! It's even quite disturbing because you don't feel it on yourself.
Note: the down jacket is sold with a carrying bag (equivalent to the case in which you store your sleeping bag); proof that the down jacket is really VERY compressible.
Also, Pertex is very soft (yes!), it's very pleasant to the touch.
A well thought out cut
I find it relatively well cut. Of course, you have the look of a Monsieur Bibendum (as with all down jackets, except for the Uniqlo type mini down jacket).
The armhole is quite high , and gives you great freedom of movement. If you are hesitating between two sizes, be sure to choose the larger one because the down needs to expand to release all of its properties.
Note the fairly high armhole which ensures comfort and freedom of movement.
The real question: does it really keep you hot?
It's much warmer than my Aigle and Patagonia parkas (in truth, it's not even comparable). This is the first time I said to Benoît:
There you go, I found a piece of clothing that keeps me warm.
It does not have a Gore Tex® membrane like the Aigle parka
Note that sometimes I even felt too hot , which is a very unpleasant feeling. So be careful with piles: under this down jacket, I avoid wearing large wool sweaters (I only risk wearing a small Ralph Lauren merino wool sweater). I prefer to wear cotton base layers.
Finally, don't hesitate to look at the Rab website because they offer a Microlight Alpine jacket (lighter, less warm).
Slight lack of functionality
The only fault I criticize is its slight lack of functionality : only one interior pocket, two side pockets, drawstring hood; I find that insufficient.
As far as I'm concerned, I'm not afraid of flashy colors (on the contrary, I love them!) but it's true that the range of colors is very limited... There is a gray, much more " "all-purpose" than the orange one I chose, but I found it very boring...
In itself, it is simply a matter of asking yourself the right questions about what you are really looking for: clothing that keeps you warm? Who protects you from the rain? Or a functional piece of clothing capable of accompanying you for a good part of the year?
The results of this Rab down jacket
It's up to you to make your choice, but know that at this price (289 euros), I haven't found anything better .
It is available in Au Vieux Campeur stores in Paris or on their website here .
Otherwise, do not hesitate to look at the list of resellers, available on the Rab website here.
