File: Liverano & Liverano, Italian tailor for men

If you are interested in the world of clothing, and in particular that of costumes, you have probably already heard of Antonio Liverano.

Its media coverage on the Internet is closely linked to that of the excellent The Armory team in Hong Kong.

These three entrepreneurs have highlighted, via magnificent photos in particular

Antonio is self-taught. Of course, his brother and his sister-in-law taught him a lot, but he didn't have a real teacher. He never stopped looking at the world around him. Especially when he worked above the Sabatini restaurant , where he saw American celebrities pass by: Gary Cooper, Gregory Peck... He developed a critical eye, notably thanks to the outfits of these Hollywood actors in their films.

This greatly contributed to his progress. His eye sharpened. He specifies that, even today, when he sees a well-dressed man, he does not hesitate to stop and observe, always with the idea that he can improve himself and draw inspiration for his own work.

Antonio would be a bit like Bruce Lee, who took the best from each martial art to create his own style: Jet Kundo. There you have it, Antonio Liverano is the Bruce Lee of tailors. Just that.

And to make matters worse, he has the best cut pants in the world. Well, in my opinion. For what ? Probably because I am one of the people who prefer when the pants do not “break” on the shoes and when they are worn high enough . 30s style but more modern.

Otherwise, just look at his photos on Google: I almost never fault him. The way his pants hang is simply miraculous.

And what about his 15-year-old Alden? 15 years! Apart from the comfort pleats, they are like new. I also read that the brand also works for disabled people. We can therefore imagine that they know how to make comfortable shoes.

Antonio Liverano's right-hand man: Takahiro Osaki, aka Taka

Takahiro has lived in Florence for 10 years, arriving as a student at a language school where he learned Italian.

This is how he met Antonio. He was accompanying a friend who wanted a bespoke costume, Taka was doing the translation. After a few more exchanges, Antonio asked him to come work for him.

He proposed to her in a rather direct way:

“You have beautiful eyes, why don’t you come work for me?” »

Truthful! Ah, those Italians…

After a week at their house seeing how they worked, Taka decided to accept.

So he started from scratch. He knew nothing about the art of tailoring, Antonio gave him a chance... and rightly so! Taka thus develops the crucial idea that being a gentleman is not just about wearing elegant clothes, it is much broader and broader than that. Know-how and good manners must also reflect a style, a certain beauty.

To develop your sensitivity, you can for example go to museums to see how colors work together. Or in nature. Each season has its particular colors, which should inspire you to dress.

Small digression: the importance of color

I advise you to go to Florence, you will understand why some of the best costumes in the world are made there. I naturally passed by their store on Via dei Fossi but unfortunately it was closed due to inventory.

For those who live in Paris, the Louvre and the Musée d'Orsay await you.

For those who cannot or do not want to go to museums, but are still interested in the history of color, its interactions and its perceptions, there are a few books on this subject. I advise you to start with those of Pastoureau.

You will learn things that are little explained:

“In a car, the most important thing for me is the color of the bodywork. I am not the only one to give it priority: various opinion surveys conducted over the last five decades have shown that color is not only an important criterion of choice when purchasing a vehicle, but sometimes even the most important criterion after the price: more than the brand, more than the model, more than the performance or any other quality, what matters for some buyers, more than we think, is the color .”

Color is one of the strong aspects of the film . It's not for nothing that the title of the documentary is "The Colors of Antonio" . The Liverano & Liverano team helps the client choose the colors that suit them (based on their complexion, the color of their hair, their general style, etc.), and to combine them in order to create pleasant contrasts. 'eye.

You will notice that Taka and Antonio have a habit of using brightly colored scarves to brighten up their winter outfits.

Qemal Selimi, the last generation

Qemal is part of the new generation of the Liverano & Liverano team. When he started, he didn't hesitate to travel several hundred kilometers every day to work with Antonio.

The second boy of the new Liverano & Liverano generation is Korean. He went to fashion school in Milan, but Antonio doesn't have confidence in these establishments. For him, they teach nothing about the art of tailoring!

This agrees with Patrick Johnson's opinion who, in an interview, explains that at the start of his studies he thought “Helmut Lang was the best thing in the world.” But that was before he met a London tailor.

This is probably one of the reasons that will push Antonio to create a tailoring school in the years to come. A bit in the spirit of the school of tailor-made shoemaking of the highly respected Stefano Bremer, who unfortunately left too soon. But these projects take time. Patience, patience…

A lover of sartorial art, director Gianlucca Migliarotti

The director is Gianlucca Migliarotti. He also directed È poi c’è .

To understand his vision of the world and therefore of men's clothing, you can read this excellent interview given as part of O'mast 's presentation in 2011.

An interview full of truth. I feel a little obliged to comment on it in a few lines. There you will find the explanation of the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure.

And to make it short, it joins that of Hugo Jacomet : the bespoke costume is made from a white sheet. The half-measure suit is based on already existing patterns which are readjusted to your measurements.

Bespoke tailoring is true ARTisan work. Gianlucca believes it is imperfect by definition: it is made from scratch and entirely by hand.

Gianlucca is also a very keen observer. For example, on the difference between the clothing culture in Milan and Naples. Between those who dress in Prada and those who go to a traditional tailor; those who wear black (very common in Milan) and those who prefer more color (in Naples).

“If you have to go to a business meeting, it's considered much more elegant to wear a navy suit and dark brown shoes. »

“If you have to go to a business meeting, it will be considered more elegant to wear a blue suit with dark brown shoes.”

But the lines are moving and, with a lot of blogging, I think we will get there in France too. Ten more years and black will no longer be reserved for very formal evenings.

McDonald's is also taking its place, even if Neapolitan culture resists globalism rather well. Indeed, it's hard to imagine a boy dressed from top to bottom in Liverano & Liverano and who goes to eat at the local McDonald’s. Impossible. But at the local trattoria , yes.

Sartorial culture could not have developed on any other ground, it is that of beauty and patience. And once this sensitivity to beauty is developed, it applies everywhere and all the time.

This vision of life and clothing is shared by the Liverano clan. The same profession, the same practice, often leads to a similar conception of the world.

The style of Liverano & Liverano suits

What makes Liverano different from other tailors?

As Antonio says, the jacket must exude the passion transmitted by the tailor. And this involves a set of details that make a Liverano suit unlike any other.

Features of Liverano & Liverano suits

• The shoulder is slightly overhanging to give more stature. Visually, it is similar to the Roman shoulder. Classic and “clean” therefore. No superfluous decorations, no Spalla Camicia in sight;

• There is very little padding (shoulder padding). This is a characteristic that is still quite rare in France, but here too, with blogging, the trend should be reversed in the years to come. Yes, yes, you will see;

• The rather generous setbacks ;

• A rather low chest pocket to highlight the collar and lapel;

• Three-button jackets in general, but worn like two-button jackets by “rolling” the lower part of the lapels. We then speak of a “fake three button” jacket.

A Liverano suit remains lighter in its construction than a Roman suit, but nevertheless more structured than a Neapolitan suit.

Of course, to achieve a certain harmony, each detail is studied as part of a whole: it is a clever mix of proportions between the shoulders, the lapels and even the collar. For example, the wide lapels counterbalance the overflowing shoulders, yes!

Liverano materials, each more beautiful than the other

The materials come from Zegna, Draper's or even from the French company Dormeuil. You will notice that the fabrics used are more colorful, lighter in fact, than those that can be found in the North of Italy where dark gray is the majority.

Beyond the technical details, what are the characteristics of the Florentine House?

You should know that Antonio always has the last word. He lets the customer express themselves and offer what they like. Antonio pretends to agree but, in the end, he will always choose. Always. Of course, Antonio is clever: he does not impose his vision of things, he manages to convince the client gently.

And as mentioned above, you cannot choose your fabric in open bar mode. This choice will rather be made according to your own characteristics. and your desires, a tweed suit for example.

They will then offer you three or four fabrics that suit you.

The delicate question of price

This remains very expensive for most ordinary people, but within the average price range found to a large extent. Note also that the word "expensive" remains relative, especially when we know that the construction of a jacket by hand can require more than 80 hours. But that's another debate.

Also note that the shirts are not made on site but in a workshop in Naples.

Creating beauty, the profession of a men's tailor

Antonio tells an anecdote about a client who, already having several tailors, wanted to hire his services because he found his work more classic (as opposed to that of others, more modern).

Antonio replies that there are no modern or classic costumes: they create beauty and everyone loves beauty.

Noi facciamo il bello (…) il bello piace a tutti

“Ugliness doesn’t sell well,” said Raymond Loewy. But we still need to know what beauty is and how we define what is beautiful.

What is beauty?

I don't want to engage in counter philosophy, but beauty can be understood, in the classic sense of Greek philosophy, as a harmony of proportions. It is a quasi-scientific judgment.

If I ask you "what is a beautiful piece of clothing?", I already know what you will answer: the material, the cut, the details. In short, there are rules to respect. I tend to agree, but I don't know if the answer is that simple.

We can consider that it is a little reductive and like the transgression of these principles, as with the dark style, which also has its own rules. Antonio also makes it clear that “everyone loves beauty”. Including those who are not aware of the rules a priori .

It thus takes up part of the apparent contradiction formulated by Kant (antinomy of taste) - yes, yes, you are indeed on a fashion medium - namely that there exists a common sense of beauty.

Beauty is universal: almost everyone finds Beethoven's ninth symphony beautiful, or more simply a sunset. No need to explain it or make a mathematical demonstration... But at the same time, beauty passes through the filter of our own subjectivity .

This allows us to put an end to “to each their own”; “tastes and colors cannot be discussed”; “the idea of ​​beauty is only subjective”. By being able to discern beauty from ugliness, men will always choose beauty.

To close this anecdote on modern and classic suits, you should still know that the cuts of Liverano suits have been updated . They are narrower to keep up with the times. So yes, their costumes are beautiful, but they are not timeless.

It makes sense, who would want to wear costumes from 50 years ago today? Body shapes have changed and so have our ideas of a costume.

I Colori di Antonio, the film in summary

The film/documentary is very beautiful and allows us to go further in the general reflection around clothing.

As in O'mast , you will only learn a few concepts and techniques on the art of making a costume. It's more of a film about Antonio's life.

It is aimed at enthusiasts AND others too.

• Languages: original version in Italian and subtitled in several languages: English / Japanese / Italian / Chinese

• Director: Gianlucca MIGLARIOTTI

• Soundtrack: Jazz, jazz and jazz

As a bonus to the DVD, you will receive a booklet with some photos, as well as remarks from the director and producers.

You can get the DVD from The Armory or Drake's . I purchased it from the former, based in Hong Kong, and had no problem receiving the order. However, there was no package tracking.

In case of problem, it's a bit for your apple... I therefore advise you to buy it on the Drake's website, located in England. And if you're passing through London, it's even better.

Also available on iTunes.

Good film !