To restore our faith in the sweater
As you know, at BonneGueule, we love chunky knitwear and we wear it extensively.
After exploring the chunky cardigan , it was therefore logical that we tackle the chunky knit sweater : its collar can sometimes make it easier to wear with a coat or under a blazer. And it also remains a very simple piece to combine , the key is to offer a particular texture or relief!
Except that most of the time, the sweaters we see on the market are often very neutral and don't add much to an outfit, other than warmth. It wasn't what we wanted.
After Six & Sept, we looked for a French brand with real expertise in knitwear, and that's where we met Le Mont Saint Michel.
The first textured sweater: easy-to-wear navy blue.
The second sweater: a burgundy to bring variety in the colors.
We haven't talked much about this brand on BonneGueule, so we're going to present it to you before talking about our collaboration.
This part is longer than usual, but the history of the brand and Alexandre Milan (the creator behind Le Mont Saint Michel) are worth the detour…
A history of Mont Saint Michel which begins in 1918
Alexandre's family has been producing sweaters for almost a century . Born in Brittany, from a Norman family, he was therefore completely legitimate to manage the Le Mont Saint Michel brand.
Before discussing the brand in detail, let's travel back in time, because Alexandre gave us a rather unique point of view on the history of knitwear in France...
A century of family history
After the First World War, Alexandre's great-grandmother founded an underwear knitting workshop , giving work and occupation to war widows.
They produced woolen skin knits, socks...
On this old advert for the Docteur Rasurel brand, you can clearly see what underwear looked like at the time. It was obviously very cold!
The years pass and the consumer society takes hold in the France of the Trente Glorieuses. The industry is flourishing: there are nearly 600 knitting companies, because the entire French population needs to be clothed.
We needed efficient machines, productivity, performance. It's hard to believe, but at the time, all French consumption was made in France!
We are still decades away from globalization: what was consumed in France was almost exclusively produced in France.
It was his grandfather who imported the first sweater knitting machines from the USA.
From 60 people, the workforce grew to nearly 300 employees producing 3,500 sweaters per day in the company, which was considerable at the time!
At the same time, Alexandre spent his childhood in a workshop, but not just any workshop.
Notice to heritage lovers, this is Château Monthorin.
Indeed, he and his brothers grew up in a castle renovated by their parents to set up their knitting workshop. Having visited the place, it is truly atypical, the workshop contrasts radically with the industrial buildings of the time.
As a result, his childhood is marked by the memory of machines, their noise, the activity of the employees, by the smell of oil, wool and cotton, a bit like "a giant mechanic" , he tells us. -he.
The company is therefore closely linked to the family and quickly arouses their curiosity, their desire to discover the profession. As a young man, his father gave him a leg up, but he didn't just hand him the keys to the workshop without letting him prove himself!
Her learning of knitting
Before handing over the reins, Alexandre Sr.'s father asked him to learn the trade himself to be legitimate. So he started knitting, sewing, using machines... and discovered how putting together a sweater works.
Training in basic practices will also allow Alexandre to benefit from a better understanding of his brand.
After this apprenticeship, he leaves for Switzerland where the best knitting machines in the world await him. He then got his hands on programming looms, complex stitches, all these operations allowing him to express his ideas on a machine; like a true knit artist.
However, things are going to start to go wrong in French textiles...
The supremacy of quantity: towards the end of a model
The 1980s marked the beginning of the reign of mass distribution Carrefour, Monoprix, Prisunic... These behemoths considerably changed the situation. With their appearance, the relationship between production and consumption is turned upside down. Why that ?
With their desire to buy gigantic quantities at the lowest price, we are starting to produce more clothes for less. The goal is no longer to produce durable, good quality clothing , because cheap clothing means several purchases per season. This is the birth of fast fashion .
Quantity triumphs over quality and, little by little, consumers prefer to have more choice, more cheaper clothes than just one quality item for a lifetime.
By changing our mode of consumption, the entire textile industry has gradually been disrupted.
With the opening of the economic market in Europe, France finds itself in competition with European countries that are less technologically advanced but have much cheaper labor, from Italy to Portugal.
The arrival of these new entrants has clearly distorted the French textile industry, to the point that those which were the best spinning mills in Europe are closing one after the other.
And unfortunately, French textiles are completely collapsing, with the well-known consequences. The Milan family workshop also paid the price, everything was emptied. This does not take away Alexandre's taste for knitwear, and the idea of having his own brand is gradually gaining ground.
The resurrection of the Le Mont Saint Michel brand
The brand before the takeover
Alexandre Milan did not found the Le Mont Saint Michel brand, this brand had already existed for a long time. He revived it and gave it another dimension.
Historically, Le Mont Saint Michel was a very beautiful brand of work clothing founded in 1913. Their advertisements at the time were visible on the walls in the countryside. Every child knew the logo, which was truly part of the visual landscape of the time.
“3 times more use”, the workwear origin of the brand is obvious!
More than a logo, the brand produced absolutely indestructible clothing, with foolproof solidity. Contrary to what one might believe , they did not dress the professions of the sea but of the land : craftsmen, farmers, carpenters.
Well, it's true that Mont Saint Michel is basically a brand for land-based professions, but you can wear the sweater in a port, it works very well too!
The meeting between Alexandre's family workshop and the old brand took place in the 1980s. At that time, Alexandre wanted to move on to the next stage: founding his own brand to distribute the workshop's production.
Without a brand of his own, he finds himself obliged to subcontract to distribute his stitches, a situation he would really like to get out of!
The rediscovery of a dormant brand
He rediscovered Le Mont Saint Michel and realized that the brand was admired all over the world: Japan, Scandinavia, Switzerland... These work clothes had an almost cult status due to their quality and the image with which they were associated.
We get them second-hand and in surplus, but the brand no longer produces anything.
Alexandre therefore made an offer and bought the brand, combining its history and international visibility with the history of his own family. The two DNAs were totally compatible: the simplicity and sobriety specific to a workwear heritage brand , added to Alexandre's know-how in knitting, and more generally in tailoring.
Since then, the brand has exported its knitwear abroad, all over the world, thanks to the recognizable graphic logo.
That’s an impressive logo!
But since the brand's beginnings, the textile landscape has changed a lot around the world.
Like any expert in his field, he also has a point of view that is sometimes contrary to what one can read elsewhere : he is extremely admiring of the recent know-how of the Chinese in knitting and of their brand new workshops, equipped state-of-the-art machines. He is also much more nuanced than us on the use of synthetic in a knit, highlighting the practicality and ease of maintenance that results from it.
It is therefore this interesting mix, at the crossroads between a century-old French brand and Alexandre's advanced know-how, that we wanted to highlight through these two wool sweaters.
Two virgin wool sweaters
The objective of this collaboration was to provide you with a sweater in virgin wool , in large knit, with a fitted cut and a very particular texture, in order to offer you an effective and versatile warm piece, both in terms of functionality (you protect from the cold! ) than that of style (being able to wear it under a blazer or being very casual).
A unique texture
The first thing we notice is obviously this texture, which we could describe as "waffle" or honeycomb. In fact, we call it a reverse stitch , because we use both sides of the machine to create this relief.
Given the shape of the texture, this makes for a visually interesting sweater, without being too thick or uncomfortable.
With a slightly plunging light, full of romance , the texture of the sweater is gradually revealed.
As usual, color choice is always a big topic with us. If the blue sweater is a must-have, with a visual “twist” here thanks to the inside-out texture, a more unusual color was also needed.
We therefore chose burgundy, because we believe that it is a very easy to wear color and which brings variety.
The collar of the sweater, also compatible with that of a shirt! (see photo below).
A virgin wool that keeps you warm
It's a 100% virgin wool sweater , a material that we have never explored yet at BonneGueule: the wool comes from Australia and is spun in Austria
Then the sweater is knitted, cut and sewn in Romania, in a small family workshop that masters this material well. This is how it obtains this very “clean” and close-to-the-body fit.
The burgundy of this virgin wool takes the light beautifully.
Virgin wool (with a thickness of 27 microns) has the advantage of having a more "nervous", more casual hand, and of presenting very good robustness over time . There is also little pilling compared to finer wool.
As a reminder, virgin wool comes from the first shearing of sheep, and it is a wool to which no more than 7% of external fibers can be added (often to provide strength and robustness).
It's the virgin wool that gives its rather casual touch to this sweater.
And above all, given the thickness of the knit, it's a sweater that keeps you warm! Luca and Flo during their windy shooting day, and Elie on skis, can attest to this. The honeycomb texture, the thickness of the mesh and the quality of the virgin wool mean that the sweater traps a lot of air: this gives it remarkable thermal insulation capacity.
As long as you don't live in the depths of a mountain swept by Siberian winds, you just need to add a light, windproof layer - like a softshell or a trench coat - to be prepared for all climatic hazards.
In the case of harsh cold (below 5°C), put on your usual coat and I guarantee that the mercury will be nothing more than a bad memory.
Add a water-repellent or waterproof layer to your sweater, and you will no longer fear the weather!
A slim but comfortable fit
As you know, with thick knitwear, the whole point is to have a fitted cut . This is where virgin wool comes in handy, since its natural elasticity holds the sweater well on your bust, while making it very comfortable. You will have real freedom of movement, without feeling tight inside.
And as usual, even if it means having an elastic material, as long as it correctly shapes the arms and outlines the shoulders .
Luca appreciates the length of the sleeve, which can either be worn normally or pulled slightly so that it covers the hand more.
Even though it is a large knit, the sleeve remains snug.
Finally, we were careful not to have a ribbed edge that was too tight, to prevent too pronounced “bulges” from forming. As I said, with the natural "stretch" of the material and the knitting, it would have been useless to do the opposite.
Something I didn't know, the type of finish also affects the fit of the cut, particularly on the tricky subject of cut and sew...
The question of cut and sewn vs. “fully fashioned”
If you've been reading BonneGueule for a while, you know that we've always recommended having a "fully fashioned" finish.
At first, I actually wanted fully fashioned, but Alexandre warned me. He explained to me that on a reverse stitch, to have a very clean and structured cut, cut/sew was preferable. Not to mention the reduction/increase techniques, which take a long and often uncertain time to develop. It was his experience that spoke!
The fit of the sweater is clearly visible here, with very few creases, but keeping the garment close to the body, very useful for going shrimp fishing on Sunday afternoon .
How to wear a waffle knit sweater?
We start with Florian, faithful to his usual elegance. Unsurprisingly, the burgundy of the sweater lends itself perfectly to the navy blue of the suit: we stick with “safe combinations”. Just make sure your blazer gives you enough room to tuck the sweater underneath, otherwise you risk looking stuffed in. The collar of the white shirt creates a point of light and frames the outfit, reminiscent of sneakers. ( BonneGueule shirt , navy BonneGueule suit , Adidas sneakers)
The collar of the sweater falls neither too high nor too low: you will have no problem matching it with a shirt.
In the same spirit, the sweater can also be worn with a mismatched suit: the main thing is to ensure that the colors remain harmonious. The margin for error is very small on a burgundy / blue / gray combination. Florian opts for derbies to emphasize the dressy dimension of his outfit, but the sneakers from the previous look would be just as possible. Finally, note the blue-gray and burgundy clutch, bridging the gap between the different pieces of the look. ( BonneGueule shirt , Gant Rugger blazer, Hast clutch, BonneGueule pants , Septième Width derby)
Luca told you about it in his report on Pitti 89, the camel coat is a piece with great style while being easy to wear. Look how easily it integrates with other colors, it's a particularly versatile item. On this 100% wool outfit, the variation in textures is essential: none of the pieces have the same appearance, despite being in the same material. The scarf simply placed on the shoulders creates vertical lines and helps to visually elongate the silhouette: a tip to remember for the littlest among us! (Monsieur London scarf, Gutteridge coat, Crémieux pants, Scarosso shoes)
Raw jeans, knitted sweater, waxed cotton Macintosh... proof that you can do workwear differently! The waxed cotton subtly echoes the marine influences of the sweater, while the jeans fulfill the role of neutral canvas around which the other elements of the outfit are grafted. Note how the collar of the shirt sits with that of the sweater. In terms of colors, as you know, the blue/beige combo is a pillar of men's fashion: don't hesitate to use it! ( BonneGueule oxford shirt , BonneGueule jeans , Gant macintosh)
A sweater and pants can also be enough to build a look - on this type of configuration, obviously take care of the cuts / proportions -. With such a sober base, you can afford a more daring pair of shoes, here bi-material tasseled moccasins. The same goes for the bag and the accessories, it's the opportunity to let your desires speak. (SuitSupply pants, Crémieux moccasins, Almaré bag)
The strong piece of this look is clearly the blue and green tartan pants, which the sweater just "soothes" without being boring, thanks to the work done on the knit. (Zins pants, Crémieux boots)
This results in a rich mix of textures and colors, without overdoing it.
If you wish, you can also swap the pair of Chelsea boots for the spontaneity and comfort of a pair of sneakers. 😉
If you pair a navy sweater with a denim jacket, choose one with a lighter shade. Otherwise, there is no difficulty in this look: the top is constructed in monochrome, the gray jeans allow the pieces to be linked together and the beach boots desert boots are in the same casual vein, while adding a touch of warmer color. (APC jacket, BonneGueule jeans , Bobbies desert boots)
Look closer, you will see that Luca has wrapped a bandana around his neck before tucking the ends into the sweater (tying it could quickly give a "boy scout" look). Now that more and more of you have already mastered the basics well and are on the path to your own style, I invite you to look into this type of accessory to develop your curiosity. Less common, it easily allows you to convey influences or traits of your personality. Otherwise, a more classic scarf / scarf can do the job just as well: it's a matter of taste. (Levi's Bandana)
We really couldn't pass through Honfleur without paying proper homage to the brand's coastal origins! All joking aside, the look obviously has a lot of connotations and can seem difficult to transpose. Generally speaking, it is by combining it with more formal pieces that you can wear a yellow raincoat in an urban context. (Six&Sept hat, De Fursac raincoat and white jeans, Bobbies desert boots)
For a more sober and more urban look, simply remove the raincoat (or choose it in an easier color). The foundation of Italian style, the harmony of the white pants and the navy sweater is total. This is also the simplest assembly with jeans of this color.
White pants are enough on their own. Aside from a few pieces of jewelry, there is no point in overloading the outfit with accessories.
How to choose your size ?
The sizing is very classic, just take your usual size !
I know I say this every time I launch, but it's that simple!
How to get BonneGueule x Le Mont Saint Michel sweaters?
The sweaters are available here this Sunday at 2 p.m. , but in limited quantities!
