" Tiles, It doesn't suit me!"; "These stripes make me look bigger!"; "It's too flashy for me!"...
So many thoughts that I keep hearing here and there, often unjustifiably.
However, patterned clothes easily add “flavor” to a look : it would therefore be a shame to deprive yourself of it.
How to wear them? This is what we are going to see today!
For this article, we will mainly focus on the most common patterns, leaving aside the colorful prints that cause epileptic seizures. Sensitive eyes, refrain!
Are you ready ?
The basic pattern palette
When in doubt, we will always advise you to opt for a "classic" pattern , which will bring a touch of elegance to your outfit.
A quick overview...
Tiles
The check remains the main motif in the men's wardrobe . A true “ large family ” , there are a whole host of other motifs derived from it.
It can be worn on the top or the bottom of an outfit, act as a statement piece or even be present on an accessory... You can integrate it into a number of different combinations.
Thin or thick, small or large, there is no shortage of choice.
Checks are found everywhere: jacket, pants, sweater... They exist in many forms and in an infinite number of colors, allowing them to be integrated into almost any look imaginable.
Some of his little brothers have a history, and therefore a strong imagination . We can notably cite tartan, Prince of Wales or even gingham.
The tartan
The origins of tartan date back to the 3rd century CE.
It has been used in clothing since the 17th century and has even become, over the course of its history, a political marker.
Later rehabilitated by King George IV, it became a symbol of royalty and, above all, was used by Scottish clans as a distinctive sign. Each clan has its own “personalized” tartan: this is a statutory element .
In the 1970s, it symbolized the punk movement and attracted several creators, such as the emblematic Vivienne Westwood.
Known by big names in fashion like Marc Jacobs on the left (we'll spare you the hassle of wearing the traditional kilt), tartan, depending on its dominant color, can easily become a pattern suitable for any type of room. Like here, worn as a jacket under a navy wool overcoat, the color of which echoes one of the shades of tartan.
The Prince of Wales
In the 19th century, tartan was exclusively reserved for the clans of Scotland.
Scottish landowners therefore need a fabric that their "people"
Thus was born the Prince of Wales, a pattern derived from tartan but much more discreet , able to be worn by everyone because it does not refer to any clan of the time.
It is this sobriety that makes it a motif of choice for costumes .
The Prince of Wales is a discreet and elegant pattern, a more subtle alternative to the very strong tartan.
Checkerboard and gingham
By “checkerboard”, we mean a pattern of tiles alternating two colors. If one of them is white, we then speak of gingham.
Its history is quite uncertain: its use is found in many European countries but also almost everywhere in the world.
Popularized among others by Brigitte Bardot and the London Mods , gingham was widely used in the sixties — both in the creation of clothing and in design.
As here, we can imagine wearing gingham on a large central piece, at the same time giving a real character to the outfit. But also on accessories, typically a pocket square or a tie. This pattern being very strong visually, it attracts the eye all the more: we take it easy on the rest!
To find out more about this pattern, click here !
The stripes
Stripes have the advantage of being able to go with almost any other pattern , making them the easiest to wear. Depending on your tastes, you will choose them more or less wide, horizontal or vertical.
Here, the stripes are worn simply on a classic shirt. Same thing on the pants side. Most of the time, you will find white on blue variations (or the opposite), making them much easier to wear.
Small anatomical point:
- vertical stripes have the advantage of visually lengthening the silhouette , giving you a more slender appearance,
- Horizontal stripes tend to have the opposite effect, that of widening the build .
It would therefore be good to adapt the format according to your body type.
Likewise, the thickness of the stripe is important in creating your look: the Fine are preferred for a more dressy outfit, and vice versa.
The peas
More difficult to master, polka dots can nevertheless become a motif of choice to add a touch of elegance.
With some exceptions, we avoid wearing it on large pieces . Better to use it on a shirt for example.
In small touches, it combines wonderfully with many other simple patterns , such as checks or stripes. Be careful, however, not to let yourself go, at the risk of literally appearing like a clown.
The polka dot shirt adds a visually strong detail in the middle of a rather plain outfit: raw jeans and brown wool blazer. Likewise on the right, where the tie is the accessory that stands out from the outfit constructed in monochrome.
Houndstooth
Houndstooth is a black and white pattern — traditionally, at least — whose shape is reminiscent of an animal's footprint. Originally from Scotland, it is notably woven from wool and worn by shepherds in the 19th century.
It was in the 1930s that the Duke of Windsor gave it its credentials , making it a motif increasingly used in men's fashion.
Houndstooth is a very strong pattern that you need to know how to balance. We will avoid wearing it over an ensemble (suit type)... Better to opt for a strong piece, like a winter coat, or on the contrary an accessory.
Paisley (or “paisley pattern”)
Paisley is a pattern inherited from Persian weavers, imported to Europe during the Silk Road in the 17th century. It comes to us more precisely from the Kashmir region, hence its name.
Although it can be worn as a suit or shirt, its busy composition may make it difficult to get to grips with at first. I advise you to make it your own by starting first with small touches : tie, pocket square, even scarf.
Wearing a paisley ensemble is a real stylistic bias that you have to be able to master. Needless to say, the rest of the pieces must be extremely sober to give the pattern its full importance. On the right, the paisley tie stands out, an interesting twist when combined with other more discreet pieces whose shades are relatively similar.
More contemporary patterns
Other patterns – which we could rather describe as “printed” – are often present in the more recent creations of designers or major ready-to-wear brands. We are thinking in particular of the camo pattern, which we detailed in one of our previous articles .
From left to right, the floral pattern (worn as a shirt by Raphaël Spezzotto-Simacourbe) and camo are two other types of patterns that you could imagine wearing, subject to a few rules.
We could also note the use of the floral motif, particularly during the more spring and summer seasons. We have seen it re-emerged for several years as a print on shirts, pants or accessories.
Although it is entirely possible to wear it, you must nevertheless be careful: it can quickly look cheap and transform a successful look into a completely "has-been" look.
I advise you to only wear one piece of this type per outfit.
Here, we use the floral pattern to enhance an otherwise classic outfit with a touch of color. Matching perfectly with the rest of the look, the shirt or pants bring a certain originality, while blending in perfectly. Think contrasts!
For now, you won't be able to ignore quality. The patterns must be well executed and the nuances deep.
How to tame patterns?
Wearing patterns means taking a step forward in your quest for style . If there are many
Indeed, not everyone will start buying a polka dot suit or tartan pants, knowing that they will have to suffer the consequences on a daily basis. However, when it is assumed and proudly displayed, it will set you apart from the gray and dull silhouettes that we see strolling in the streets or crowding in the metro.
Unlike some of our friends at Pitti, we are going to see how to always keep a balance.
Focus on accessories
One of the basic tips for incorporating pattern into your outfits — especially when it's not part of your habit — is to start by adding patterned accessories .
Examples of patterned accessories (Prince of Wales tie, paisley pocket square and checked socks). Mr. Porter selection
For more sartorial outfits, we can think of ties or pocket squares. In a more casual style, we could suggest a hat, a scarf or scarf, shoes, or even a pair of patterned socks.
Keep it simple
Another solution: integrate a piece, or even a suit-type set , with a relatively discreet pattern.
For example, there are many blazers on which the stripes or checks are very fine and more difficult to perceive to the eye, unless you look closely.
These pieces remain no less interesting: they have the advantage of being "all-purpose", but careful in terms of details.
The checks of the suit are discreet enough not to be visually offensive, while reinforcing the sophistication of the look. On the right, the different elements of the outfit have neutral and similar shades. We play with textures, the silk of the shirt, the denim and the felt of the hat. We twist the shirt with discreet and light polka dots, which makes them easier to integrate.
A small rule of thumb in case of doubt, which may seem obvious: only include one patterned piece in your outfit (shirt, pants, blazer, etc.). It's for you to see !
Everything else must be made up of basics in similar shades, or with reminders of colors, to “create a bond”. Simple and efficient.
On the left, we opt for a trendy (Hawaiian) floral print shirt, worn with pants with a sophisticated cut, but no less sober. On the right, a large cream-colored turtleneck sweater goes perfectly with the checkered pattern of the pants (Burberry print). The recall of colors helps define the silhouette and create continuity between the two pieces.
Go all out
Okay, let's go a step higher!
For the more experienced among you, don't hesitate to start purchasing a "strong" piece, which will be central to your look . A patterned coat for example, or a leopard print sweater.
Here again, you can favor a fairly “traditional” pattern to avoid possible errors. Be careful, traditional does not necessarily mean boring or bland : here, color is welcome.
The pattern can be used as a focal point in the composition of an outfit. It will attract all the attention when worn on a strong piece. Here, on the left, all the interest lies in the bright color of the yellow and black striped overcoat. In the middle, the checkered coat brings relief to the silhouette. On the right, the young singer Harry Styles frames his leopard pattern sweater by combining only black pieces, making the print stand out. Note: the animal pattern is entirely possible if it is worn with great moderation , often for a slightly more eclectic style.
Know how to mix
The ultimate step to making you masters of patterns: combine several of them in the same outfit.
On the left, the flashy polka dot tie / pinstriped shirt combination offers a successful result thanks to the shades of the same monochrome that complement each other. Usher, in the middle, subtly mixes a white and black checked shirt with a white-on-black polka dot tie. On the right, the relatively simple checked three-piece is enhanced by the paisley tie, adding a welcome touch of color. The reminder of color with the cover allows the whole to be correctly linked.
At first glance, this may seem difficult or even downright risky, the lack of taste having happened so quickly...
What are the different ways to compile several patterned pieces without making a mistake? This is what we will see just below!
The six commandments for correctly associating patterns with each other
How do you combine these damn patterns? Far from being an exact science, it just involves knowing a few simple rules.
Common sense and your keen eye will do the rest , so don't panic!
Avoid the “block pattern”
To avoid any visual saturation, avoid wearing twin patterns or compiling too many different patterns .
For example, two different types of small tiles might return too much information. It's aggressive to the eye and therefore... a failure.
Same observation for an outfit made up of three or four different patterns and too “prime”.
Here, the overflow of patterns on the left, or the overuse of floral patterns by Pelayo Diaz on the right, offer a visually saturated and therefore unflattering result... This speaks for itself.
Add binder with color
Another tip for properly combining two patterns: choose them according to their colors . If both have a similar shade, the reminder will allow the different elements to be linked together.
However, exercise caution and let your common sense guide you . We obviously don't mix checks, stripes and floral prints together, just because they all contain green...
Here the whole thing goes together very well thanks to the reminder of purple, both on the embroidered tie, as well as on the pocket square, the pinstriped shirt and the very discreet checks of the jacket.
Think about details and accessories
As is often the case when solving a stylistic problem, it may be wise to turn to accessories .
A horizontal striped tie and a polka dot pocket square could perfectly coexist. Even more so if they both include a fairly similar shade. You follow?
Here, these Pitti Uomo regulars show off the patterns in the form of accessories, ties or pocket squares. The intensity of the colors makes them stand out more.
Play on size
By playing with the size of the patterns, you can still wear a similar print on two pieces. For example, compiling large stripes with finer stripes.
Visually, the distinction will be well marked, demarcating a break between high and low.
Here, the look works because we have relatively simple (big) stripes at the top and more elaborate tiles at the bottom. Visually, there is a sufficient distinction between the two blocks, harmonized by the common colors.
Still to accentuate this distinction, the little trick would be to play on the opposites . Horizontal with vertical, black on white versus white on black...
Opposing opposites
“ Divide and conquer,” the saying goes. The assembly of patterns could take up this maxim...
To avoid this " block pattern " , know how to contrast two "contrary" patterns . We can think, for example, of a suit with large checks and a shirt with fine vertical stripes.
Here on the left, David Gandy avoids uniformity by compiling his three-piece with a thin vertical striped shirt, which breaks up the horizontality of the suit's fine checks. Same on the right, where the polka dots on the tie stand out from the pinstriped suit to add a twist to the whole look.
The exercise is a little more perilous on casual looks.
Tempt the devil
Well, I admit, this is a bit like the WTF advice at the end of the article... which is obviously not to be taken literally.
After the warning, I will explain in more detail.
The idea is relatively simple: ignore all the rules mentioned and only listen to your heart (hoping that it has a minimum of good taste). It happens in fact that "certain sape pros" manage to mix patterns in all directions without worrying about any principle. They dare and... it works. So why not you ?
On the left, the superposition of patterns that are very distinct from each other – but in shades of blue – offers a somewhat eclectic but interesting result. On the right, we brilliantly mix the exotic print, the checked shirt and the striped pants. I grant you, we are at an expert level.
If the combination of opposing motives seems welcome to you, go for it! Try the set at home first, then observe. At best, your look will be unique. At worst, you will have learned.
The final word...
Patterned clothing represents a relevant alternative to plain pieces, allowing you to enhance many outfits differently.
Start slowly with small touches on accessories, then focus on larger items like the shirt. From there you will progress and be able to move towards stronger pieces.
Once you're accustomed to the patterns, you'll probably want to try a few twists as long as you respect certain little rules: mixing checks with stripes, polka dots with tartan, paisley with Prince of Wales...
A new world opens up to you!
