Are you one of those boys who, when younger, proudly wore a soldier's outfit to reenact some of the most legendary battles in History...?
Our daily wardrobe draws heavily on military outfits . We can cite the safari jacket, the officer jacket, the bomber jacket, cargo pants , the trench coat and even... the t-shirt
Long the exclusive prerogative of real soldiers, the military look is now widely used. Popularized by rock idols of the 60s and 70s and worn by peace activists as an act of protest during events in Vietnam, we have continued to come across it ever since, from the podiums to the streets.
Jimi Hendrix photographed by Gered Mankowitz in 1967. This is one of the first times a rock icon was photographed wearing a military jacket. This shot has since become legendary.
But military heritage also includes types of fabrics
To attack !
Camo, from the trenches to the catwalks
As you will have understood, the term "camo" refers to the camouflage print typical of traditional military outfits.
The little history of camo
It is difficult to say with certainty where and when camo appeared.
We find them from the end of the 19th century, when the British army already adopted neutral uniforms during the Transvaal War in Africa.
However, everyone agrees that the birth of modern camo was originally an idea developed by a trio of French soldiers mobilized in the early hours of the First World War. Cock-a-doodle Doo !
Little history lesson: in November 1914, just four months after the start of the clashes, the two enemy fronts became mired in a positional war. Trenches are dug, camps rise from the ground and war machines are erected. So many things that will have to be hidden!
The art of camouflage, painting on cannon and synthetic canvas.
It was in the 6th artillery regiment that the decorator Louis Guingot and the store director Eugène Corbin were the first to have the idea of hiding the cannons under a large painted canvas in order to prevent them from being targeted. ..
From left to right, Lucien Victor Guirand de Scévala, Louis Guingot and Eugène Corbin.
The socialite painter Lucien Victor Guirand de Scévola, mobilized in Lorraine, joined this initiative. Taking advantage of his network, he managed to convince General Joffre - head of the armies - of the relevance of this practice. The latter then made research into camouflage a major issue, to be applied in all parts of the army, even in the soldiers' outfits.
For the little anecdote, this same Louis Guingot, some time before his meeting with Guirand de Scévola, sent a hand-painted outfit to the Paris Army Services. Called "leopard outfit", it was returned to him due to lack of interest . However, it is the first real war camouflage jacket.
On the left, the "leopard outfit", on the right Mr. Louis Guingot (on the left in the photo).
Since then, no army has doubted the relevance of camouflage. New conflicts even give rise to the appearance of new forms, such as the “desert camo” of the American army.
Engaged in several conflicts in the Middle East, the United States developed “desert camo”. It relies on sandy tones, closer to Iraqi landscapes than khaki.
Camo yes, but which one?
It is difficult to answer this question as there are so many different versions .
As I set about writing this article, I realized the limits of my knowledge on the subject. Mea culpa...
I then went fishing for information by consulting historical texts, browsing forums dedicated to hunting enthusiasts, fashion blogs specializing in military wardrobes or sites for professional gamers (like Battlefiled and other Call of Duty). In short, intensive investigation!
Among the multitude of existing camos, here are the ones you are likely to encounter most often:
The Flecktarn : this pattern, some of whose origins date back to the Second World War, is very widespread today. In the German army first, but also in many other countries such as Japan or Poland. This is a “plane tree pattern”, made up of three to six colors in small dots.
The M81 Woodland (in this photo) and the Camouflage Center Europe (CCE): although slightly different (especially in terms of shapes), these two patterns are very close with their four colors: black, brown, beige and green. The first is mainly used by the American armed forces and the second by the French army.
The Tigerstripe : originally developed by the Republic of Vietnam in the 1960s, it is itself derived from the “leopard outfit” version of the French forces of the 1950s. It takes the appearance, as its name suggests, of stripes reminiscent of a tiger's coat.
MARPAT : printed particularly used in the USA and Canada, it is a pixelated camouflage, reducing its infrared signature. It is now available in several versions - woodland, desert and urban - so that soldiers can adapt to any type of terrain or situation.
In fact, you have a wide choice of different prints, from original designs to current derivatives.
The brands that parade have understood this well, by integrating camo for several seasons already...
Front row camo
Before the catwalks took over, camo retained a certain “marginality”.
Whatever the season, the trend or the stylistic bias of the brand, it is now one of those elements that we find implicitly at each new Fashion Week. This is particularly what allowed it to spread on a more global level.
Dior Spring Summer 2016 show. Here, the camo lapels catch the eye and dress up the otherwise more sober outfit.
Valentino Spring Summer 2016 show. In addition to the jacket, we note that it is possible to use camo as an accessory on an outfit with, for example, a backpack. This can be an alternative to clothing if you only want to incorporate camo in small touches.
Dries Van Noten Spring Summer 2013 show. In fact, the look is made up of different camo pieces, in several colors. If we always avoid stacking several camo pieces, we see here that this print is not confined to khaki, brown or green.
This is all very nice, but how can you master camo in everyday life? This is what we will see just below!
How to wear camo correctly?
Although very common, camo is a print that you should be wary of . We can quickly fall into the throes of bad taste.
When used correctly, camo can be integrated into some of your outfits to transform quite basic looks into more sophisticated combinations.
When you wear a camo piece, I advise you to opt for a look with neutral pieces . Also be sure to dissociate dark top and light bottom or vice versa. However, it is not forbidden to completely break up the outfit by opting for a radically different piece.
Up !
To start, I advise you to only wear one camo piece per outfit. With experience, and when you have become a professional in mastering this print, you will be able to easily combine several pieces
I suggest you check out a selection of looks that will help you better understand how to tame that damn camo!
The military jacket
Very simply, you can bet on a jacket, like a parka or other filed jacket (military-inspired jacket par excellence, whose models are as varied as there are armies)
Worn as a hooded parka over a simple outfit, here white pants. This is an approach particularly appreciated by our Italian friends, who use their pants as a "neutral canvas" around which to compose with stronger pieces.
Here, the rawness of the camo safari jacket (winter version) contrasts with the shades of blue of the cardigan, shirt and braided tie combo. The outfit is less formal but would otherwise lack contrast, and gains in originality since it contrasts an elegant base with a more "raw" jacket. The petrol blue polarized lenses also enhance the look.
Very strong look with two camo pieces: a filed jacket and a dark shirt with a similar print, worn with red chinos to break up the silhouette. All the accessories complete this outfit. In this case, it also works thanks to the skin color and shaved head of the wearer, who can afford bolder shades. Otherwise there is a risk of sending too much information. To be reserved for the most seasoned!
The shirt or overshirt
As an alternative to the jacket, the overshirt could be considered open over a white t-shirt, with chinos of the same color
More discreet, we will take it in a quality and relatively thick cotton for a perfect fit. You can even go for printed denim.
Carhartt printed shirt, with a contemporary print.
Camo printed denim safari jacket from G-Star. If the brand is not known for the finesse of its designs, this one is well executed! We could even imagine a small knit in place of the t-shirt.
However, it can also be interesting to use a camo shirt to add body to an outfit. By combining it with a suit or worn under a sweater, and by focusing on the differences in texture , the print will stand out more . We play here on details and visuals.
Worn under a jacket and cardigan, camo appears subtly and catches the eye. The kind of little detail that brings research to the whole.
Worn under a textured suit, camo spices up the silhouette. It brings a form of unexpectedness by opposing the formality of the outfit. Once again, we frame the print to temper it and let it express itself without overdoing it.
The case of mesh
The hoodie and the sweatshirt are two pieces that lend themselves to the camo print. Given their casual nature, you can have fun with both the design and the print itself.
An extra touch of creativity is welcome, by twisting the print for example, even if it sometimes means moving away from tradition a little.
In fact, this type of piece will be appropriate in a more streetwear outfit, or to break the formality of an outfit.
Here, an Acne sweatshirt whose print suggests camo through the colors and design. It is this freedom in design that makes it a good choice for a relatively formal or casual chic outfit but with an offbeat side.
More rarely, you will find camo sweaters. It's all the more interesting when it is textured, like here with this fluffy wool which softens this rough pattern. Navy pants are the best option to soberly complete the piece. If our wearer opts for green moccasins reminiscent of the sweater, a small pair of white sneakers would be just as possible.
The layering bonus
The camo print easily finds its place in layering . It then brings a – controlled – touch of color, which catches the eye and which structures the silhouette . But these are already looks requiring a little expert in the matter.
This look shows that it is possible to adopt a sartorial-inspired style - striped tweed blazer, white jeans and boots - to which we add a camo filed jacket (derived from the classic M81). Once again, the pattern brings welcome spontaneity to a dressy look.
Another approach, with a turtleneck instead. The whole remains as harmonious, although taking on a more marked workwear note. In this sense, the typical “Old Man and the Sea” physique also plays a big role.
My favorite look, combining a camo overshirt (with a more modern print), under a raw denim jacket. For a workwear style, add brown wool pants that play on volumes and boots that have already been around. The flannel shirt is in the same vein, where the tie comes in to break the codes.
Down !
Wearing the camo print in jeans or pants is more delicate. In fact, and very quickly, such a piece can give an inelegant side to even a very simple outfit. We then avoid these big, shapeless pants with multiple pockets and very cheap prints.
I recommend straight-cut pants and quality cotton chinos without too many frills .
For a streetwear look that exudes cool, camo cargo can do the trick. Be careful though, it's not Jay-Z or Kanye West who wants...
Here I give you some ideas for combinations with camo pants, which could inspire you in your future outfits.
Camo chinos which, as always with Nick Wooster, can transform a formal outfit into an offbeat look. However, the rule remains the same: very sober pieces on the rest of the outfit, especially gray. If orange shoes seem too bold for you, they can be replaced with their brown cousins.
The denim jacket and camo mix (here in pants) always works very well, for a fairly raw casual style. We play on a palette borrowing from several aspects of workwear, which makes the mix harmonious.
In a more assertive style, the camo pants adapt perfectly to work boots, casually rolled up to reveal the entire shoe. We're on some good chunky workwear at the moment! Moreover, the look on the left remains easier to understand, thanks to the neutrality of the t-shirt.
And we accessorize!
As you can see, camo can be an interesting choice. That being said, if by chance you don't yet feel ready to wear it as a central piece, turn to the accessories. And there, the choice is wide. Review of the troops!
We particularly favor fabric, synthetic and technical accessories. We avoid leather , which is too processed to obtain the camo print and which will have lost quality following these numerous modifications.
Otherwise, we can consider almost everything: hats, scarves or even scarves and other bandanas... Almost, because here again, the misstep is not far away...
As a backpack, camo brings an adventurous touch without taking itself seriously.
Shoes, here New Balance , can be a welcome touch of originality in a more neutral outfit. Don't be fooled by their sole and wear them like any khaki pair.
Is camo just khaki?
Well, as you can imagine, discussing camouflage means talking about forests, groves, arid deserts and muddy terrain (among other things). But the magic of fashion will open the doors - too little known - to camo prints in colors other than khaki, ocher, brown or green .
In fact, you will be able to opt for more subversive versions: yellow, blue or possibly red. Be careful though, as the saying goes, nothing beats the original. So be sure to choose truly aesthetic pieces and always think carefully before purchasing.
Ideally, focus on the accessory to avoid any stylistic wandering...
Here, a Supreme parka. The yellow camo, the design and the very sportswear style make this piece a relevant choice. You will still notice that certain more "classic" colors such as green and brown remain present but in smaller touches.
Accessory level, like here on a tie, the camo can be of a less common color. Typically, this model can add a twist to your classic white suit/shirt.
Watch out for mistakes: take care!
We told you, camo can very quickly transform a beautiful outfit into a completely overloaded look, even out of date or overdone in the worst case.
A quick tour of the classic mistakes to avoid...
As mentioned above - but prevention is better than cure - we never go for a total camo look and we avoid, unless we are a master in terms of elegance and style, wearing more than one piece printed. It's heavy, unflattering for the silhouette and above all... it attacks us visually. Thanks for us.
Because the print itself is a little saturated with its multitude of colors and shapes, it is better to favor simple pieces, with fairly clean cuts and without too many embellishments. We don't mix the camo print with another print either... "Less is more", as the other would say.
Some pieces may also be more complicated to wear than others...
- Hats and scarves : far from being prohibited, you must however be careful not to overuse these elements which risk quickly giving you a streetwear look that is a bit "too much".
- The belt : I advise you to avoid the camo belt (or any printed belt for that matter). Apart from the fact that this type of part is a little outdated, the product itself risks being of poor quality, given the different treatments it will have received to achieve such a result.
- The down jacket : as you know, we're not big fans of big down jackets. The bibendum effect is not really our thing. Add the camo print and there... we need no comment.
Finally, since camo conveys, by its origin, an imagination as valorous as it is disastrous, be careful never to fall into caricature. Use this print sparingly and accurately.
But then, where can you find the most beautiful camo pieces?
Of course, every season, we find new camo prints, new pieces with ever more modern cuts. At the end of the article, you will find a selection of seasonal items that I have researched just for you. Ready-to-wear, accessories, everything goes there.
The good idea
Go shopping in thrift stores, where numerous stocks of military parts are on sale, to the delight of vintage lovers...
However, when it comes to camo, one of the best solutions is to go shopping in thrift stores to find authentic pieces . Wear a little piece of history, for an often very reasonable price (count between 30 and 50 euros for a filed jacket in Parisian thrift stores, for example).
And for those who would prefer to buy new, keep reading.
Selection of seasonal pieces
But then, with all that, where can you buy beautiful camo print pieces?
Although no brand is focused on the military universe only
Below I provide you with a non-exhaustive list of beautiful camo pieces that you could fall in love with.
From left to right, Maharishi jacket, Edwin jacket, Tiger of Sweden double-breasted blazer.
From left to right, Supreme cap, Doc Martens derbies, Carhartt beanie.
More creative now! From left to right, Billionaire Boys Club down jacket, Maharishi pants.
The final word...
More than just a trend, camo has today become a classic in the men's wardrobe. It comes in the plural, with as many choices in the patterns as in the pieces you can wear.
It is nevertheless necessary to be careful not to overdo it - like all good things, you might say - at the risk of looking outdated or in bad taste.
Perhaps start with small touches, before jumping into purchasing a larger, more difficult piece.
But know this, I am an activist for “ camo for all ” ! I think everyone has the right to their camo, regardless of their stylistic morals. You just need to know how to adopt it .
