Are you one of those boys who, when they were younger, proudly wore a soldier's outfit to replay some of the most legendary battles in history...?
Our daily wardrobe draws heavily on military outfits . We can cite the safari jacket, the officer jacket, the bomber jacket, the cargo pants , the trench coat and even... the t-shirt. .
Long the exclusive preserve of real soldiers, the military look is now widespread. Popularized by rock idols of the 60s and 70s and worn by peace activists as an act of protest during the events in Vietnam, we have continued to come across it since then, from the catwalks to the streets.
Jimi Hendrix photographed by Gered Mankowitz in 1967. This is one of the first times a rock icon was photographed wearing a military jacket. This shot has since become legendary.
But the military heritage also includes types of fabrics , manufacturing processes and... prints. Among them, camo, a pattern so particular that I will try to decipher it for you.
To the attack!
Camo, from trenches to catwalks
As you will have understood, the term "camo" refers to the camouflage print typical of traditional military outfits.
The short story of camo
It is difficult to say with certainty where and when camo appeared.
They can be found from the end of the 19th century, when the British army already adopted neutral uniforms during the Transvaal War in Africa. .
However, everyone agrees that the birth of modern camo was originally an idea developed by a trio of French soldiers mobilized in the early hours of the First World War. Cock-a-doodle-doo!
A little history lesson: in November 1914, only four months after the start of the fighting, the two enemy fronts were bogged down in a war of position. Trenches were dug, camps sprang up and war machines were erected. So many things that would have to be hidden!
The art of camouflage, painting on cannon and synthetic canvas.
It was in the 6th artillery regiment that the decorator Louis Guingot and the store manager Eugène Corbin first had the idea of hiding the cannons under a large painted canvas in order to prevent them from being targeted...
From left to right, Lucien Victor Guirand de Scévola, Louis Guingot and Eugène Corbin.
The society painter Lucien Victor Guirand de Scévola, mobilized in Lorraine, joined this initiative. Taking advantage of his network, he managed to convince General Joffre - head of the armed forces - of the relevance of this practice. The latter then made research into camouflage a major issue, to be declined in all the corps of the army, even in the soldiers' uniforms.
As a little anecdote, this same Louis Guingot, some time before his meeting with Guirand de Scévola, sent a hand-painted outfit to the Paris Army Services. Called "leopard outfit", it was returned to him due to lack of interest . However, it is the first real war camouflage jacket.
On the left, the "leopard outfit", on the right Mr. Louis Guingot (on the left in the photo).
Since then, no army has doubted the relevance of camouflage. New conflicts have even led to the appearance of new forms, such as the American army's "desert camo".
Engaged in several conflicts in the Middle East, the United States developed "desert camo". It is based on sand tones, closer to the Iraqi landscapes than khaki.
Camo yes, but which one?
It is difficult to answer this question as there are so many different versions .
As I sat down to write this article, I realized the limits of my knowledge on the subject. Mea culpa...
I then went fishing for information by consulting historical texts, browsing forums dedicated to hunting enthusiasts, fashion blogs specializing in military clothing or sites for professional gamers (such as Battlefield and other Call of Duty). In short, intensive investigation!
Among the multitude of existing camos, here are those that you are likely to encounter most often:
Flecktarn : This pattern, some of whose origins date back to the Second World War, is very widespread today. First in the German army, but also in many other countries such as Japan or Poland. It is a “plane tree pattern”, composed of three to six colors in small dots.
The M81 Woodland (in this photo) and the Camouflage Centre Europe (CCE): although slightly different (especially in terms of shapes), these two patterns are very similar with their four colors: black, brown, beige and green. The first is mainly used by the American armed forces and the second, by the French army.
The Tigerstripe : Originally developed by the Republic of Vietnam in the 1960s, it itself is derived from the “leopard print” version of the French forces of the 1950s. It takes the appearance, as its name suggests, of stripes reminiscent of the tiger's fur.
MARPAT : a print used in particular in the USA and Canada, it is a pixelated camouflage, reducing its infrared signature. It is now available in several versions - woodland, desert and urban - so that the military can adapt to any type of terrain or situation.
In fact, you have a wide choice of different prints, from original patterns to current derivatives.
The brands that parade have understood this well, by integrating camo for several seasons already...
The front row camo
Before the catwalks took over, camo retained a certain "marginality".
Whatever the season, the trend or the stylistic bias of the brand, it is now part of those elements that we find in the background at each new Fashion Week. This is what has allowed it to spread to a more global level.
Dior Spring Summer 2016 fashion show. Here, the camo lapels catch the eye and dress up the outfit, which is otherwise more sober.
Valentino Spring Summer 2016 Fashion Show. In addition to the jacket, we note that it is possible to use camo as an accessory on an outfit with, for example, a backpack. This can be an alternative to clothing if you only want to integrate camo in small touches.
Dries Van Noten Spring Summer 2013 show. This time, the look is made up of different camo pieces, in several colors. While we always avoid stacking several camo pieces, we see here that this print is not limited to khaki, brown or green.
That's all well and good, but how do you master camo in everyday life? That's what we're going to see just below!
How to wear camo well?
Although very common, camo is a print that you have to be wary of . You can quickly fall into the throes of bad taste.
Used correctly, camo can be integrated into some of your outfits to transform basic looks into more sophisticated combinations.
When wearing a camo piece, I advise you to focus on a look with neutral pieces . Also, be sure to separate dark tops and light bottoms or vice versa. However, it is not forbidden to completely break the outfit by focusing on a radically different piece. .
Up !
To start, I advise you to wear only one camo piece per outfit. With experience, and when you have become a pro in mastering this print, you will be able to easily pair several pieces . As I was telling you, this print, visually saturated, is difficult to match with another print or another strong piece in the same silhouette.
I suggest you check out a selection of looks that will help you better understand how to tame this damn camo!
The military jacket
Very simply, you can bet on a jacket, like a parka or other filed jacket (military-inspired jacket par excellence, the models of which are as varied as there are armies) .
Worn as a hooded parka over a simple outfit, here white trousers. This is an approach particularly appreciated by our Italian friends, who use their trousers as a "neutral canvas" around which to compose stronger pieces.
Here, the rawness of the camo safari jacket (winter version) contrasts with the shades of blue of the cardigan, shirt and braided tie combo. The outfit is less formal but would otherwise lack contrast, and gains in originality since it contrasts an elegant base with a more "raw" jacket. The petrol blue polarized lenses also enhance the look.
Very strong look with two camo pieces: a filed jacket and a dark shirt with a similar print, worn with red chinos to break up the silhouette. All the accessories complete this outfit. In this case, it also works thanks to the skin color and the shaved head of the wearer, who can afford more daring shades. Otherwise, we risk sending too much information. To be reserved for the most seasoned!
The shirt or overshirt
As an alternative to the jacket, the overshirt could be worn open over a white t-shirt, with chinos in the same color will soothe your high.
More discreet, we will take it in a quality and relatively thick cotton for a perfect outfit. We can even bet on printed denim.
Carhartt printed shirt, with a contemporary print.
G-Star's camouflage printed denim safari jacket. While the brand isn't known for the finesse of its designs, this one is well executed! You could even imagine a little mesh instead of a tee-shirt.
However, it can also be interesting to use a camo shirt to give body to an outfit. By associating it with a suit set or worn under a sweater, and by focusing on the differences in textures , the print will stand out more . Here we play on the details and the visual.
Worn under a jacket and cardigan, the camo appears subtly and attracts the eye. The kind of small detail that brings sophistication to the whole.
Worn under a textured suit, camo spices up the silhouette. It brings a form of the unexpected by opposing the formalism of the outfit. Once again, we frame the print to temper it and let it express itself without overdoing it.
The case of mesh
The hoodie and sweatshirt are two pieces that lend themselves to the camo print. Given their casual nature, you can have fun with both the design and the print itself.
A touch of extra creativity is welcome, for example by changing the print, even if it means sometimes straying a little from tradition.
In fact, this type of piece will be appropriate in a rather streetwear outfit, or to break the formality of an outfit.
Here, an Acne sweatshirt whose print suggests camo through the colors and design. It is this freedom in the design that makes it a good choice for a relatively formal or casual chic outfit but with an offbeat side.
More rarely, you will find camo sweaters. It is all the more interesting when it is textured, like here with this fluffy wool that softens this tough guy pattern. Navy pants are the best option to soberly complete the piece. If our wearer opts for green loafers reminiscent of the sweater, a small pair of white sneakers would be just as possible.
The layering bonus
The camo print easily finds its place in layering . It then brings a touch - mastered - of color, which attracts the eye and structures the silhouette . But these are already looks requiring a little expertise in the matter.
This look shows that it's possible to adopt a sartorial-inspired style - a striped tweed blazer, white jeans and boots - to which we add a camo filed jacket (derived from the classic M81). Again, the pattern brings a welcome spontaneity to a dressy look.
Another approach, with a turtleneck instead. The whole thing remains just as harmonious, although taking on a more pronounced workwear note. In this sense, the "Old Man and the Stylish Sea" type physique also plays a big part.
My favorite look, combining a camo overshirt (with a more modern print), under a raw denim jacket. For a workwear style, we add brown wool pants that play on volumes and boots that have already lived. The flannel shirt is in the same vein, where the tie is invited to break the codes.
Down !
Wearing camo print in jeans or pants is more delicate. In fact, and very quickly, such a piece can give an unstylish side to even a very simple outfit. We therefore avoid these big shapeless pants with multiple pockets and very cheap prints.
I recommend straight cut pants, quality cotton chinos without too many frills .
For a streetwear look that exudes cool, a camo cargo can do the trick. Be careful though, not everyone can be Jay-Z or Kanye West...
Here are some ideas for combinations with camo pants, which could inspire you in your future outfits.
A camo chino that, as always with Nick Wooster, can transform a formal outfit into an offbeat look. The rule remains the same: very sober pieces on the rest of the outfit, especially gray. If the orange shoes seem too bold, they can be replaced by their brown cousins.
The mix of denim jacket and camo (here in pants) always works very well, for a rather raw casual style. We play on a palette borrowing from several aspects of workwear, which makes the mix harmonious.
In a more assertive style, the camo pants adapt perfectly to workboots, casually rolled up to reveal the entire shoe. We are on good old workwear for the shot! Moreover, the look on the left remains easier to understand, thanks to the neutrality of the t-shirt.
And we accessorize!
As you can see, camo can be an interesting choice. That being said, if by chance you don't feel ready to wear it as a central piece, turn to accessories. And there, the choice is wide. Review of the troops!
We particularly favor accessories made of fabrics, synthetics and technical materials. We avoid leather , which is over-treated to obtain the camo print and which will have lost quality following these numerous modifications.
Otherwise, you can consider almost anything: hats, scarves or even neckerchiefs and other bandanas... Almost, because there again, the faux pas is not far...
As a backpack, camo brings an adventurous touch without taking itself too seriously.
The shoes, here New Balance , can be a welcome touch of originality in a more neutral outfit. Don't be fooled by their sole and wear them like any other khaki pair.
Camo is just khaki?
Well, as you might expect, talking about camouflage means talking about forests, groves, arid deserts and muddy terrain (among other things). But the magic of fashion will open the doors - too little known - to camo prints in colors other than khaki, ochre, brown or green .
Indeed, you will be able to opt for more subversive versions: yellow, blue or possibly red. Be careful though, as the saying goes, nothing beats the original. So be sure to favor truly aesthetic pieces and always think carefully before buying.
Ideally, focus on the accessory to avoid any stylistic errors...
Here, a Supreme parka. The yellow camo, the design and the very sportswear style make this piece a relevant choice. You will still notice that some more "classic" colors like green and brown remain present but in smaller touches.
At the accessory level, like here on a tie, the camo can be of a less common color. Typically, this model can twist your classic white suit / shirt.
Beware of mistakes: watch out!
We told you, camo can very quickly transform a beautiful outfit into a completely overloaded look, even cheesy or overdone in the worst case.
A quick tour of the classic mistakes to avoid...
As mentioned above - but better safe than sorry - we never go for a total camo look and we avoid, unless we are masters in terms of elegance and style, wearing more than one printed piece. It's heavy, unflattering for the figure and above all... it attacks us visually. Thank you for us.
Because the print itself is a bit saturated with its multitude of colors and shapes, it is better to favor simple pieces, with fairly clean cuts and without too many frills. We also do not mix the camo print with another print... "Less is more", as the other would say.
Some pieces may also be more complicated to wear than others...
- Hats and scarves : far from being forbidden, you should nevertheless be careful not to overuse these items which could quickly give you a streetwear look that is a bit "too much".
- The belt : I advise you to avoid the camo belt (or any printed belt for that matter). Besides the fact that this type of piece is a little outdated, the product itself risks being of poor quality, given the different treatments it will have received to achieve such a result.
- The down jacket : as you know, we're not big fans of big down jackets. The Michelin Man effect isn't really our thing. Add the camo print and there... we don't need to comment.
Finally, since camo conveys, by its origin, an image as valiant as it is fatal, be careful never to fall into caricature. Use this print sparingly and accurately.
But then, where can you find the most beautiful camo pieces?
Of course, every season, we find new camo prints, new pieces with ever more modern cuts. At the end of the article, you will also find a selection of seasonal items that I have searched for just for you. Ready-to-wear, accessories, everything is there.
The good idea
Go hunting in a thrift store, where a large number of stocks of military items are on sale, to the great delight of vintage lovers...
However, when it comes to camo, one of the best solutions is to go hunting in a thrift store to find authentic pieces . Wear a little piece of history, for a price that is often very reasonable (count between 30 and 50 euros for a filed jacket in Parisian thrift stores, for example).
And for those who would prefer to buy new, read on.
Selection of seasonal pieces
But then, with all this, where can you buy beautiful camo print pieces?
Although no brand is focused solely on the military universe , we often find one or more pieces in the collection. Instead, favor brands with sportswear, streetwear or workwear inspirations like Carhart , The North Face , Deus ex Machina , Edwin and Patagonia . You will also find them from names like Supreme, Stussy or Palace.
Below is a non-exhaustive list of beautiful camo pieces that you might fall in love with.
From left to right, Maharishi jacket, Edwin jacket, Tiger of Sweden double-breasted blazer.
From left to right, Supreme cap, Doc Martens derbies, Carhartt beanie.
More creative now! From left to right, Billionaire Boys Club down jacket, Maharishi pants.
The final word...
More than just a trend, camo has now become a classic in the men's wardrobe. It comes in many forms, with as many choices in patterns as in the pieces you can wear.
However, you need to be careful not to overuse it - as with any good thing, you might say - at the risk of looking outdated or in bad taste.
Maybe start with small touches, before you jump into buying a bigger, more difficult piece.
But know this, I am an activist for " camo for all " ! I think that everyone has the right to their camo, regardless of their stylistic preferences. You just have to know how to adopt it .
