How to wear a suit vest with style?

For several centuries, wearing a waistcoat has been the prerogative of elegant men.

Long inseparable from the costume, it has been modernized throughout its existence. Wool, linen, silk, even denim: its variations are multiple, as are the styles in which it is incorporated.

As a little fashion archaeologist, I tried to find out where and when this emblematic garment of the male wardrobe appeared.

We will also see how to choose it and, above all, wear it!

FOR THE BRIEF STORY...

First fun fact, the origins of the waistcoat would predate those... of the costume itself . Its creation goes back to the Persians. The great English travelers brought it back to the court, after their expedition to Asia. Very quickly, it was adopted by the nobility of the time.

During his forced exile in France , King Charles II noticed the splendor and opulence of the clothing of the French court. Once back, he wanted to change the clothing habits in his country, so as to adapt them to a more English way of life: hunting, horse riding, sports and stays in the countryside.

The waistcoat then became a central piece of the nobility's outfits. Until the 18th century, it was worn abundantly decorated, colored, sewn with gold thread, in precious fabrics... In short, real pieces of art.

In the 19th century, with the decline of European monarchies and the rise of the Industrial Revolution , the suit - a fortiori, the waistcoat - was worn more soberly. It was then integrated into the so-called "three-piece" suit of gentlemen .

Above we note the evolution of 19th century clothing, and in particular that of the waistcoat. Over the centuries, the waistcoat has become simpler. More sober since the Revolution in order to break with monarchist traditions, it has continued to evolve since then: more fitted, lighter, more discreet... It inspires and comes in many forms. Let's take a closer look!

HOW TO CHOOSE A VEST?

The interest of this piece lies in the fact that it brings a certain structure to the silhouette . This is the idea that you should always keep in mind when wearing the vest, otherwise you risk dubious errors...

1. ZOOM ON THE (D)ECUTTING

Small checklist for trying on:

• we wear the fitted and fitted vest,
• the armhole is high enough to maintain freedom of movement,
• It hugs the shoulders and torso . If you feel that it pulls at the buttons, consider that the size is not right. And no, sucking in your stomach doesn't count!

Because it structures the outfit, it is always worn buttoned, at least partially. An open, gaping vest doesn't add much.

We retain two main forms:

• The most formal remains the double-breasted waistcoat . It has two columns of four to six buttons, the left side overlapping the right, and the lapels are often wider than on single waistcoats. There may be two to four pockets.
• The straight waistcoat has only a simple column of four to six buttons, with more discreet lapels. Its version without lapels, with a more plunging collar, will fit more into a three-piece suit type ensemble.

Usually, the vest covers the belt and its ends end in a point. However, more contemporary models shorten and reveal the belt. This type will be used to compose much less formal looks.

We move on to the second determining point: the material.

2. ZOOM ON THE MANUFACTURE

A vest is usually made of two parts. The back is often made of viscose or silk . There is also a martingale that allows you to cinch it as you wish, if it becomes too loose.

As I told you before, it is worn fitted and closed. It is a piece that is intended to shape the torso: in order to ensure optimal air circulation and avoid losing three liters of water each time you wear it, favor natural materials .

I recommend focusing on slightly rough wool, velvet, tweed, cotton or even silk.

When it comes to choosing the material, think about how you want to use it! Play with textures , which will add even more character to your room.

The vest has more of a formal connotation in the collective imagination, but nothing prevents it from being included in a more workwear or casual look . Choose materials with a raw look in this case. For example, we can imagine a tweed vest worn over a flannel shirt, with raw denim and a pair of boots that have lived a little...

LET’S TALK WELL, LET’S TALK STYLE!

How to wear a vest?

With the exception of the three-piece suit , it is considered an integral part of the outfit.

We love it especially for the structure it brings to the silhouette, and its elegance that we can have fun shifting.

You'll see, it's not that complicated!

1. SIMPLE VERSION

The patterns, in contrasting colors, make this vest the strong piece of the outfit. With a model like this, you have to favor "neutral" elements for the rest of the look. Here, a white shirt, khaki flannel cargo pants , with small leather boots. The proportions are respected, the vest emphasizes Luca's silhouette and the colors work very well together.

2. FORMAL VERSION

Above, David Gandy, a true master of the men's waistcoat. One of the most elegant ways to wear it is with a three-piece suit. Then, opt for textured materials, with a slightly "rough" hand, like here with the mottled wool.

Another possible option is the vest integrated into a tuxedo. The look is resolutely sartorial (even more so with a plunging vest). These pieces, cut in smoother and satiny fabrics, are of course reserved for special occasions.

3. LAYERING VERSION

Let's look at the master of the subject: Alessandro Squarzi. The gray vest is integrated in a layering version under a wine-colored cardigan and on a navy coat with wide lapels. The colors blend perfectly and balance each other with subtlety. Note also the use of the scarf which brings a touch of originality and draws the eye to the face. A look full of casual class: hats off to the artist.

BEWARE OF FALSE FRIENDS

It's as true in fashion as it is in life, false friends are everywhere .

In the case of the vest, the most thorny point concerns its association with a T-shirt. We all have in mind an image approaching that...

Let's be clear: the practice of pairing a cardigan with a T-shirt (V-neck, no less) was common in the 2000s to 2010s, but we can only rejoice at its disappearance and it is appropriate to exclude it definitively from your stylistic habits. It refers to an imaginary that we prefer not to remember too much. The cardigan is only interesting if it brings a touch of elegance...

That said, you might get a better result with a henley —a sort of heavy cottonT-shirt with a Tunisian collar and thick ribbing. This works best because the henley's button-down collar echoes the lines of a shirt, and its thick weave helps avoid the pitfall of a too-smooth outfit.

On another note, avoid vests with too big a pattern and too garish colors , or make sure that the rest of the outfit is neutral.

Okay, now that you're dying to buy a vest, let's move on to the good addresses. It's a gift!

GOOD ADDRESSES

To afford a beautiful vest, you will have to invest a little . Indeed, the hold and quality of the material being essential, the price will follow accordingly. The first prices will be around 100 euros and can fly much higher to reach, sometimes, astronomical peaks.

A quick overview...

• SuitSupply : the traditional brand offers us several models, single or double-breasted, in a modern style. We find interesting materials for prices ranging from 89 euros to 259 euros.
• Tonsor & Cie : this is the own brand of the eponymous Toulouse concept store. Among their creations, traditional waistcoats revisited in mixed wool and viscose lining, with a lot of choice in designs. Pieces designed and made in France for prices between 95 and 240 euros.
• TGSU (The Great Sartorial Uprising) : Milanese house dedicated to the vest, everything is "made in Italy". There you will find pieces worked and redesigned for a more current use, interesting for more contemporary styles in tweed or wool. Prices ranging from 189 to 265 euros.
• Hackett : Here you will find models in 100% wool, made in England. From traditional to more textured models, quilted or herringbone, there is something for everyone. From 150 to 275 euros.

• Fortela : Alessandro Squarzi's brand offers a selection of tasteful vests: between houndstooth, denim and some very distinctive patterns, there will be something for everyone! Between €250 and €430
• Hollington : a brand tested in our columns , the brand offers a range of vests with a workwear spirit, and even some more original printed models!
• RRL : The brand owned by Ralph Lauren often offers elaborate vests, with eclectic and original designs, in high-quality materials... with prices to match (often starting at 500 euros).

THE FINAL WORD...

The vest is one of those pieces that will never go out of style .

Choose it fitted and close to the body, so that it structures your silhouette.

Always keep in mind that this is a piece with a story, which conveys a strong imagination from which one should not completely detach oneself. That said, the plurality of materials and the work of the reverses already allow it to be twisted .

In a way, wearing a vest is also a way of asserting a style that can vary depending on whether you prefer workwear, casual or sartorial...

Up to you !