How to wear a suit vest with style?

For several centuries, wearing a waistcoat has been the prerogative of elegant men.

Long inseparable from the costume, it has been modernized throughout its existence. Wool, linen, silk, even denim: its variations are multiple, as are the styles in which it is incorporated.

As a little fashion archaeologist, I tried to find out where and when this emblematic garment of the men's wardrobe appeared.

We will also see how to choose it and, above all, wear it!

FOR THE LITTLE STORY...

First funny info, the origins of the vest would predate those... of the costume itself . It is to the Persians that returns his creation . The great English travelers brought him back to the court, after their expedition to Asia. Very quickly, it was adopted by the nobility of the time.

During its forced exile in France , King Charles II noticed the splendor and opulence of the clothes of the French court. Once back, he wants to change clothing habits in his country, so as to adapt them to a more English way of life: hunting, horse riding, sport and stays in the countryside.

The vest then became a central piece of nobility outfits. Until the 18th century, they were worn abundantly decorated, colorful, sewn with gold thread, in precious fabrics... In short, real pieces of art.

In the 19th century, with the decline of European monarchies and the rise of Industrial Revolution , the suit – a fortiori, the vest – is worn more soberly. It then fits into the so-called “three-piece” costume. nice men .

We note above the evolution of 19th century dress, and in particular that of the waistcoat. Over the centuries, the vest has become simpler. More sober since the Revolution in order to break with monarchist traditions, it has continued to evolve since: more fitted, lighter, more discreet... It inspires and is available in many ways. Let's take a closer look!

HOW TO CHOOSE A VEST?

The interest of this piece lies in the fact that it brings a certain structure to the silhouette . This is the idea that you should always keep in mind when you wear the vest, otherwise you might get suspicious...

1. ZOOM ON THE (CUT)

Small checklist when trying on:

• we wear the fitted and fitted vest,
• the armhole is high enough to maintain freedom of movement,
• it hugs the shoulders and torso . If you feel that it is pulling at the buttons, consider that the size is not right. And no, pulling in your stomach doesn't count!

Because it structures the outfit, we always wear it buttoned, at least partially. An open vest that yawns doesn't do much good.

We retain two main forms:

• the most formal remains the crossed vest . It has two columns of four to six buttons, the left side overlapping the right, and the lapels are often wider than on simple vests. There may be two to four pockets.
• the right vest has only a simple column of four to six buttons, with more discreet lapels. Its version without lapels, with a more plunging collar, will fit more into a three-piece suit type set.

Usually, the vest covers the belt and its ends end in a point. However, more contemporary models shorten and reveal the belt. This type will be used to compose much less formal looks.

We move on to the second determining point: the material.

2. FOCUS ON MAKING

A vest is usually constructed in two parts. The back is often in viscose or silk . We also note the presence of a martingale allowing you to bend it as you wish, if it were to lack hold.

As I told you previously, it is worn fitted and closed. It is a piece intended to shape the torso: in order to ensure optimal air circulation and avoid losing three liters of water each time you wear it, choose natural materials .

I advise you to focus on slightly rough wool, velvet, tweed, cotton or even silk.

When it comes to choosing the material, think about what you want to use it for! Play with textures , which will add even more character to your room.

The vest has more of a formal connotation in the collective imagination, but nothing prevents it from being included in a more workwear or casual look . Choose materials with a raw appearance in this case. For example, we can imagine a tweed vest worn over a flannel shirt, with raw denim and a pair of boots that have seen a bit of wear...

LET'S TALK GOOD, LET'S TALK STYLE!

How to wear a vest ?

Except for the three-pieces suit , we assume it as an integral element of the outfit.

We love it above all for the structure it brings to the silhouette, and its elegance that we can have fun shifting.

You'll see, it's not that complicated!

1. SIMPLE VERSION

The patterns, in contrasting colors, make this vest the highlight of the outfit. With a model like this, you have to favor “neutral” elements for the rest of the look. Here, a white shirt, khaki flannel cargo pants , with little leather boots. The proportions are respected, the vest highlights Luca's silhouette and the colors work very well together.

2. FORMAL VERSION

Above, David Gandy, a true master of men's vests. One of the most stylish ways to wear it is with a three-piece suit. Choose textured materials, with a slightly "rough" hand, like here with mottled wool.

Another possible option with the vest integrated into a tuxedo. The look is resolutely sartorial (even more so with a plunging vest). These pieces, cut from smoother and satiny fabrics, are of course reserved for special occasions.

3. LAYERING VERSION

Let's look at the side of the master in this field: Alessandro Squarzi. The gray vest is integrated in a layering version under a wine-colored cardigan and over a navy coat with wide lapels. The colors blend perfectly and balance each other subtly. Note also the use of the scarf which brings a touch of originality and draws the eye towards the face. A look full of casual class: hats off to the artist.

BEWARE OF FALSE FRIENDS

It's as true in fashion as in life, fake friends are everywhere .

In the case of the vest, the most difficult point concerns its association with a t-shirt. We all have an image similar to that in our heads...

Let's agree: the practice of combining a vest with a t-shirt (V-neck moreover) was common in the years 2000 to 2010, but we can only rejoice at its disappearance and it is appropriate to 'definitely exclude from your stylistic habits. It refers to an imagination that we prefer not to remember too much. The vest is only interesting if it adds a touch of elegance...

That said, the result can be more interesting with a henley — a sort of thick cottonT-shirt , with a Tunisian collar and thick ribbed edges. This works better because the buttoned collar of the henley recalls the lines of the shirt, and its thick weave helps avoid the pitfall of the outfit being too smooth.

On another note, avoid vests with too imposing a pattern and too garish colors , or make sure that the rest of the outfit is neutral.

Okay, now that you're dying to buy a vest, let's move on to the good addresses. It's a gift !

GOOD ADDRESSES

To afford a beautiful vest, you will have to invest a little . Indeed, the durability and quality of the material being essential, the price will follow accordingly. The first prices will be around 100 euros and can go much higher, sometimes reaching astronomical heights.

A quick overview...

• SuitSupply : the traditional brand offers us several models, simple or crossed, in a modern style. We find there interesting subjects for prices ranging from 89 euros to 259 euros.
• Tonsor & Cie : this is the own brand of the eponymous Toulouse concept store. Among their creations, traditional vests revisited in wool blend and viscose lining, with a lot of choice in designs. Pieces designed and made in France for prices between 95 and 240 euros.
• TGSU (The Great Sartorial Uprising) : Milanese house dedicated to vests, everything is “made in Italy”. There are pieces worked and redesigned for a more current use, interesting for more contemporary styles in tweed or wool. Prices ranging from 189 to 265 euros.
• Hackett : here you will find models in 100% wool, made in England. From traditional to more textured, quilted or herringbone models, there is something to do. From 150 to 275 euros.

• Fortela : Alessandro Squarzi's brand offers a selection of tasteful cardigans: between houndstooth, denim and some very distinctive patterns, there will be something for everyone! Between 250 and 430€
• Hollington : brand tested in our columns , the brand offers a range of vests with a workwear spirit, and even some more original printed models!
• RRL : The brand belonging to Ralph Lauren often offers elaborate vests, with eclectic and original designs, in high quality materials... with prices accordingly (often starting at 500 euros).

THE FINAL WORD...

The vest is one of those pieces that will never go out of style .

Choose it fitted and close to the body, so that it structures your silhouette.

Always keep in mind that this is a piece with a story, which conveys a strong imagination from which you should not completely detach yourself. That said, the plurality of materials and the work on the cuffs already allow it to be twisted .

In a way, wearing a vest also means asserting an assumed style, which can vary depending on whether you prefer workwear, casual or sartorial...

Up to you !