For the little story...
During a recent stay in Lisbon and more precisely during a visit to the Chiado district - the shopping district of the city center - my girlfriend noticed a small shop with a more original front than those of most of the large international brands nearby.
Attracted, we approach and first spot a pair of gray wool Chelsea boots, as surprising as they are elegant. A minute later we were in the shop called Burel Mountain Originals , whose address I can only recommend to all future visitors to the charming Portuguese capital.
A thousand-year-old history
Burel Mountain Originals is a young brand created in 2010 which today puts the spotlight on centuries-old Portuguese know-how in wool: Burel.
The mountainous region of Serra de Estrella in mainland Portugal, peaking at almost 2000 meters above sea level.
This fabric is a specialty of the Serra da Estrela mountains , understand “roof of Portugal” culminating at almost 2000 meters. This region is characterized in particular by its relatively harsh climate and its strong pastoral tradition.
In order to protect themselves from the cold and rain usual during winter in this region, its inhabitants have, for centuries, made heavy capes with the wool of their own sheep . This production of robust clothing has long been at the center of the local economy, maintained by the peasant population.
Although they were basically simple work clothes, perhaps a little crude, they had the advantage of keeping the shepherd warm and dry on the mountainside. It was also robust enough to withstand the tests of this harsh profession .
Vintage photo of a shepherd from the Serra da Estrela region, protected by a large burel cape. The style, also period, is worth pondering.
Later, international competition and the 1970s taste for synthetic fabrics undermined the region's traditional wool industry . So much so that during the 2000s, in the regional capital Manteigas (where the sector employed 50% of the population after the war), there was only one factory left in operation. Yet another example of the destruction of know-how for the benefit of over-production , particularly in the textile sector. For the record, many of the victims of these economic reorganizations immigrated to France.
And that’s where Burel Factory comes into play. João Tomas and his wife Isabel Costa , entrepreneurs and lovers of the country, understand the potential of this history full of authenticity, of this highly qualified workforce and of this production chain just waiting to be reborn. The sheep in fact graze right next to the production facilities, and clear, fresh mountain water (essential for washing the wool) is abundant there.
Example of their diversification… Wool and vegetable leather.
They seize the heritage of this noble material full of history and decide to modernize and diversify its use: coats, shirts, bags, shoes, furniture, decorative elements and relief wall coverings , There are numerous variations (Ladies, you will also find what you are looking for, a very large women's collection is also available). They are even opening a showcase hotel in the region to promote this neo-traditional local know-how. Many of their products also use other materials, such as vegetable leather for example .
La Casa de Penhas Douradas: the showcase hotel located right in the middle of the Serra da Estrela region.
The store interior of the Burel Moutains Originals boutique in Lisbon
After having been rewarded with several prizes to reward their work and their expansion (the successful openings of stores in Porto and Lisbon), Burel Factory brings together several local brands and forms Burel - Mountain Originals . This group is dedicated to promoting the Serra da Estrela region and its know-how, in particular through the opening of a burel museum within their factories.
After 60 years of synthetic wanderings and the return to the forefront of these traditions, many expatriates are returning from France. This region of Portugal is therefore today like a small bastion with French-speaking accents...
The test of the part in Burel
Well, after the history of this fabric and those who brought it up to date, I will share with you in more detail my feelings while I fell for a sublime overshirt from this brand.
Attention to detail: the sample hung on the store card. Class!
A little info by the way, their business card includes a sample of burel wool . Personally I already find it charming.
A special production
“But then technically, dear Mathieu, what is this Burel whose praises and nobility you seem to sing?”
Well my dear friend, it is pure virgin wool from the Serra da Estrela , taken directly from rustic sheep, accustomed to the harsh climate. Here these types of sheep are called Bordaleira and Churra Mondegueira , to be more precise. Subjected to extremely vigilant control, this wool is guaranteed to have no contact with pesticides . A real plus.
Example of a burel wool weaving machine that can be seen in their store in Lisbon.
Spun and woven on old machines dating from the Industrial Revolution, the wool is then boiled for a long time and beaten in fullers called pisão . The process makes its sheet almost felted . This step above all allows a shrinkage of 30 to 40% of the fabric, which gives it a nice thickness and an impressive density, almost completely waterproofed and capable of resisting water .
Knowing that BonneGueule is expert in all aspects of technical clothing (and having not yet exposed my burel to bad weather), I can only repeat to you what the advisors at the Burel Mountain Originals store explained to me in a impeccable French: to put it simply, in the snow, a drizzle or even a downpour is fine... But I advise you not to stay for hours in a downpour , the burel naturally ends up soaking up. After all, it's still wool.
Focus on the room
Evolving in a style that happily flirts with workwear influences , a thick wool overshirt was a “must-have” for me. I had been looking for one for a long time: a canon of the genre, associated with the emblematic figure of the Canadian lumberjack.
That being said, I invite you to find out about the prices of the sublime fleece models from RRL, Dehen 1920, Rogue Territory or even Drapeau Noir… Unfortunately, few offers go below 200 euros, or even 300 euros , as specified. Benoit in a recent Let’s Talk Clothes. This was a bit prohibitive.
Here is the beast, worn in one of the looks proposed and detailed below.
While I was strolling through the store I stopped in front of this superb “Fisherman” overshirt sitting on a Lisbon mannequin and discovered the price. I then knew that I would go back to Paris with her. It was displayed at a price (in store) of €132 . This was a real opportunity, undoubtedly unique on the market.
“ But what should we expect this astonishing price? ” you ask me. Continue reading, I will detail my feelings and explain in more detail.
Let’s talk about material and manufacturing
To begin with, it is a complex mixed material . If you go to the store, don't hesitate to ask to see several models, as Burel Mountain Originals is experimenting with many colors and patterns: many are not listed on the site. You must therefore go there to take advantage of their entire offer, making the piece purchased almost unique .
Zooming in on burel wool, we can particularly see the numerous reflections and the plurality of colors which give relief to the material and therefore to the piece.
In addition to the great richness of its reflections (better visible in daylight), the burel is characterized by a palpable solidity . Its very compact felt , whose weave cannot be seen, does not stretch. The thickness is generous , which guarantees a very heavy drape and no unwanted creasing.
This generosity obviously gives the room a very appreciable warmth . I spent most of October wearing my overshirt over a t-shirt and I don't remember shivering from the cold, not even on a slightly chilly evening.
Here, the doubled seams of the collar reveal real know-how and product quality making the piece all the more interesting.
Another notable surprise (especially given the cost of the piece): its impeccable construction . The seams are very regular and completely straight throughout , despite the thickness of the fabric worthy of a (very beautiful) bath mat. Special mention also for the doubled seams of the collar, touching its edges to less than 1mm.
Zoom on the seams at the shoulder (and their triple-stitch).
The shoulders also have the right to a “triple stitch” , cleaner than on most of my chambray “workshirts”; pretty Italian “gun barrel” pressure emitting a satisfied “click”; two chest pockets, not huge, but enough to slip in a card holder…
In short, the piece gives off an impression of solidity and rusticity that smells of pure workwear . His name “fisherman” is not just a simple marketing ploy. Indeed, such work overshirts were actually used in the past by Portuguese fishermen.
Small details
For this price, it should be noted that the piece remains quite raw and does not feature the "die-hard" finishes of more expensive competitors. No cotton lining , tab-collar, lined cuffs, interior pockets, exterior piped pockets and other elbow reinforcements... No here, it's raw apple. Take that as a real “feature” of the beast and its pedigree. Take it or leave it one would say...
Despite the rough and raw appearance of the burel overshirt, the result can be soft and delicate if you accessorize it properly.
The only downside of the piece (we remember that the burel remains boiled virgin wool): although felted and intended to soften with the patina, the material remains quite rough and a little scratchy . The fiber of these rustic sheep does not have the finesse and length of a merino pampered with lush grass. Which undoubtedly excludes the shirt from any attempt to wear it next to the skin, especially for those most sensitive to itching . But on a shirt, a long-sleeved Henley or even a light sweater, the problem is quickly solved. And then for those who are much less sensitive: after a while you get used to it.
How to wear the Burel overshirt with style?
Even worn with discreet and very "urban" colors, it will be difficult to pass off this overshirt as a chameleon basic that can blend into all styles. This is definitely not a piece intended for overly dressy or overly classic outfits.
If the rawness and authenticity of the piece gives it all its cachet and its workwear spirit, I still think that it is far from the " one-trick pony" to which some might instinctively reduce it.
Opt for the obvious workwear
This piece therefore fits naturally into a workwear-style look. Americana workboots, Japanese denim with generous cuffs, textured long-sleeved Henleys and boiled wool go well together. The autumnal colors and textures complement each other nicely. The bandana, a little extra touch, offers an interesting detail and a welcome pattern. Trick ; Above all, it helps protect your neck from slightly rough wool. We notice that pretty much, ripped jeans, crappy converse and a Daniel Johnston t-shirt and the look becomes joyfully grunge. We're thinking of you Kurt ( Wolverines boots, BonneGueule Kurabo jeans, Uniqlo henley, Japanese bandana and Tanner Goods bracelet).
Give in to the sportswear trend
The idea behind this look was to replace the burel with the waterproof coach-jacket that we could have easily considered in this sportswear-inspired outfit. The overshirt is therefore outerwear. Forget the complete lack of "street cred" of the model (who sincerely gave of herself during the shoot), the hoodie under the jacket, the slightly "longline" layering, the chinos with the very particular tappered cut and the midtops make the job. In this temperature a small hat would not have been too much (Midtops National Standard , Maharishi technical chinos, vintage hoodie).
Playing the “gentleman farmer” role
Another atmosphere to finish with a more English "countryside" look where the overshirt is worn over a thick ecru turtleneck and khaki velvet pants for an outfit with natural shades and soft textures. A form of simplicity emerges on a deliberately loose silhouette. In terms of accessories, a wax-jacket and a horse would have been ideal. We preferred the relaxed atmosphere of a café in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris ( Wolverines boots, BonneGueule velvet pants and Submariner roll neck North Sea Clothing).
The final word...
Ultimately this original piece is a true textbook case of clothing that is more versatile than it seems . By wearing it alternatively as outerwear or a very warm mid-layer , it becomes almost essential in the wardrobe of any aficionado of workwear-inspired outfits (perfect for a little "lumbering" of your looks) but not only that. Let yourself go for other types of outfits that are more sportswear , casual or even integrated into " sprezzatura " looks (we wanted to present you with a look of this kind but unfortunately we had some problems with photo rendering...).
In addition to buying an overall atypical overshirt , you are buying a little piece of unique and precious know-how that you are helping to preserve .
