Fashion week, fashion shows, hordes of models, Instagram posts and private parties... However, the fashion world is not limited to these highly publicized events.
During these periods of creative emulation, you can also go to certain professional fairs, which have become real institutions in the sector. Among Première Vision and others, one of them stands out for its organization and the original concept that it defends. Welcome to Tranoï ...
Le Tranoï, a lounge like no other
Le Tranoï has become an unmissable event at Parisian fashion weeks.
A veritable anthill, there are some 680 exhibitors : women's ready-to-wear; masculine; lifestyle; press and publishing area; artist exhibitions...
For four days, we attend a ballet where fashion journalists, professional buyers and talent scouts meet. We also hear more English, Italian, Japanese or German spoken there than French!
How is it organized?
Four times a year
It is also possible to attend “Tranoï Week”. A space, halfway between the showroom and an artistic exhibition space, is then set up to highlight emerging creators. In order to ensure the relevance of exhibitors, Tranoï partners with leading organizations in the fashion world. For example, the January 2018 edition took the name London Show Rooms: the show joined forces with the British Fashion Council
Galerie Nippas (108, rue Vieille du Temple in the Marais) where the January edition of the London Show Rooms took place.
In addition to the presentation space, where buyers can meet the designers and place orders, there are numerous fashion shows during these four days.
Who do we come to see there?
This show is a laboratory of trends. There we find international designers, driven by the same desire to offer the public their vision of clothing.
I went to visit the section dedicated to men's fashion on the weekend of January 20, 2018, during A/W 18-19 fashion week . Materials, designs, technicality... There is something for everyone!
A few caught my attention. Here is a sample – far from exhaustive – of those you might have encountered at Tranoï.
The Consistency brand
Based in London, Consistence is a label that offers a new version of tailoring.
Photo from the Fall Winter 2017 - 2018 fashion show
The brand enjoys revisiting the classics of our wardrobe - suits, trench coats, macs and parkas -, often in straight cuts. We find cut-and-sew pieces, blazers with wide backs, bi-materials, discreet details inspired by basting thread... An interesting option for anyone who would like to twist a dressy style!
The One by One Studio brand
The men's collection from the English brand One by One Studio is an ode to adolescence, offering youthful silhouettes inspired by the aesthetic of the 80s.
Photo from the Fall Winter 2017 - 2018 lookbook
The designer mixes materials to give a very textured look to his outfits. We find corduroy, wide denim with a pronounced wash, chunky knits that we combine with nylon sportswear jackets and buckled loafers. Enough to acquire strong pieces that remain easily portable .
The 8IGB brand
French brand inspired by the wardrobe of skaters , 8IGB offers a wardrobe notably composed of t-shirts, sweatshirts and screen-printed accessories.
From left to right, revisited Ellesse logo, sweatshirt with the symbolism of credit cards, “Meat Abolition” t-shirt
The prints parody certain advertising slogans to transform them into funny, even militant messages by echoing LGBT culture.
Their slogan "I don't match" is representative of their creative line, deliberately irreverent. This logic is taken up by some of their packaging, such as this t-shirt advocating the cessation of meat consumption sold in cellophane, thus resembling a steak.
Meeting with the Tranoï team
To find out more, I met the Tranoï management team: David Hadida, general director of the show and Marco Pili, sales director, agreed to answer my questions.
From left to right, David Hadida, David Stéven and Laura Ferranti (respectively director and responsible for communications).
How do you choose the exhibitors present at the show?
Marco: There is a real notion of loyalty at Tranoï, with creators who return from season to season to present their new products. Moreover, Tranoï comes from the Italian “between us”. In a way, it's a bit like a family.
For the rest, each year, we select new names that interest us and who, in our opinion, integrate the DNA of Tranoï into their creative approach.
It also happens that certain designers introduce themselves to us. In this case, the process is longer: we study their proposal in detail, both creatively and business-wise.
You talk about Tranoï DNA, what do you mean by that?
David: That's it ( he said, showing me all the stands around us ). More seriously, we couldn't really define it in words. It is rather a kind of feeling, of conception of fashion and creation. It's halfway between inventiveness, the quality of the clothing and the desire to offer something new — while still having a "business" sensibility, because the show is above all a professional platform.
And above all, the Tranoï has retained its warm and open atmosphere. It’s a living room on a human scale where you feel at home.
Marco Pili, commercial director of the show.
What are the advantages of being a creator represented by Tranoï?
Marco: You get the whole package. Of course, we offer a showcase, since the Tranoï is a serious and recognized show. But we are also behind these creators. We coach them and advise them by putting our expertise and experience at their disposal. They benefit from numerous tools and we also take care of communicating about their projects.
David Hadida (center in this photo) at the K-Fashion Project, a collaboration initiated by Tranoï with Asian designers.
Exactly, on a commercial level, what does the Tranoï bring to the designers present?
David: It's a showcase of choice, both for a designer who wants to get started and a more established brand. Everyone rushes there, we record a lot of traffic and they are very often connoisseurs, people who come because they are sure of finding an interesting selection, relevant proposals that will fit with what they are looking for.
Marco: The event brings together big market players, or some lesser known but very influential. For a creator who seeks legitimacy above all, being seen here can allow him to get noticed. And very often we see a snowball effect. When a designer is selected and sold in a boutique or concept store — like l'Éclaireur, for example — it happens that equivalents follow suit.
Every year we welcome representatives from Restir in Tokyo, Dover Street Market in London, Boon the Shop in Seoul, 10 Corso Como in Milan and many others. Obviously, there are also the purchasing managers for major brands like Le Bon Marché, Les Galeries Lafayette or Le Printemps.
You meet and advise creators every day. What advice would you give to someone who wants to get started?
David: First of all, you're going to need courage. Getting started can take time... You know, even the names that we see popping up here and there have worked hard before getting there.
In my opinion, you must above all build experience before setting out on your own, it is important to be armed and understand all the aspects of this profession. Today we are asked to wear multiple hats: creative, commercial, communicator...
The creators are available to visitors, explaining their creative approach in detail.
And can we do it alone or do we need to have a network, already be part of a microcosm?
Marco: Of course having a network is useful, but that's also the benefit of training upstream. It allows you to meet people and, by getting by, you will surround yourself intelligently, even if it is far from enough. Above all, you need a clear and precise vision of the market you are entering. Having good ideas is good, but you have to study the sector as a whole to offer ever more unique products, ever more original concepts.
David: We also make clothes to be worn. You have to create something that resembles you but, at the same time, that appeals and sells. This is something that is taught too little in fashion schools, even if that tends to change.
Marco: When he starts, a creator is also an entrepreneur, who must inform himself. Many people are still getting started without knowing that there are sponsorships, numerous aids, competitions, etc.
Above all, when faced with potential clients like here, you have to give everything, do more than the others. You see, when I go around the show and see the exhibitors, I always tell them the same thing. I tell them: “Get up, go see people when they approach! That’s what they’re there for, so that you can tell them your story, the story of your clothes. Passion is the best commercial argument.”
It happens that some of the creators you represent leave after growing up, to strike out on their own... How do you react, are you resentful?
David: Absolutely not! Of course, it's easy to say, but I assure you that at no time was this a problem. There's no question of exclusivity or anything. Besides, we still keep good contacts. We have sometimes very strong ties, it's really a family...
Another vision of fashion and the industry
I also had the chance to meet Armand Hadida, associate owner and artistic director of the salon. Seeing that an interview was underway with his team, he walked over and took part in the discussion, sitting on an armrest. Having no idea who I was
Armand Hadida.
You who have seen and participated in the emergence of trends for several years now, how would you differentiate the men's wardrobe from the women's?
Armand: Men have a problem, which is that they think too often in models and systems. They have almost completely excluded coquetry from their daily habits. This is their big difference from women who, for their part, are much more focused on aesthetics.
Men go to the essential and above all do not want to differentiate themselves too much from their neighbor. There is a very puritanical side to this costume habit. Never dare too much, nor do too much. There was a break in the 19th century, a time when clothing was no longer the prerogative of men to become the exclusive concern of women.
So, what do you think is the future of men’s fashion? How to fight against this “uniform disease”?
Armand: To begin with, we notice that the budget allocated to men's clothing is constantly increasing. This is even more true among younger generations, who seem to have a surge of affection for fashion. I think we should take advantage of it!
In fact, we must try to inoculate a little eccentricity into the men's wardrobe, little by little, in a measured way. At least, offer more possibilities so that men have a choice. Finally, some people may not recognize themselves anywhere because they lack alternatives...
Example of a Tranoï designer stand... we are far from the classic costume.
Certainly, but there is a world between the universe of “creators”, and the majority of people who do not necessarily recognize themselves in that. Who consider that this “fashion” is not for them. Are we facing a status quo?
Armand: Exactly, it’s up to us to offer them these alternatives! Without wanting to seem pretentious, there is indeed a problem, which is that some people are not instinctively interested in clothing. The initiative must therefore come from us, to bridge the gap between the creations that come out of the heads of stylists and the public.
At Tranoï, when the clothes of young designers are bought by boutiques in the four corners of the world, we know that this will involve a wider distribution. The idea is that we must accustom the human eye to novelty, to new possibilities that they do not necessarily consider.
At one time, we thought that it was the gay community that could instill this dynamic because it had a more outrageous, more provocative and "avant-garde" side. Because she dared... But today, she no longer really wants this "apart" image and that's good: we must also " de-gender" clothing, move away from silhouettes traditionally considered as " masculine”.
Ultimately, is it about educating men about clothing?
Armand: In a way, yes. Men have a mind that is more Cartesian than women on this level. Not by nature, but because we have formatted it a little to think about practicality and sobriety.
Maybe we can use it? Instead, you have to focus on the technical aspect of the garment, be educational in the way you present it, explain its history...
Aerial view of the Tranoï lounge.
The media for which I work defends the idea of a fashion that frees itself from overly seasonal trends to return to a more reasoned and reasonable consumption of clothing. What do you think ?
Armand: I don't disagree. This is all the more true for men who, once again — at least, for some of them — are a little behind and must first concentrate on certain basics.
But fashion remains a concept linked to the ephemeral, to the punctual. And that's what's beautiful, the way creators constantly invent or reinvent. Clothing should also be a pleasure. Finally, we affirm something depending on the way we dress.
And what about the fashion industry, its evolution?
Armand: There is a lot to say... Creators — especially those who are starting out, but not only — must integrate the idea that information travels quickly. It is so diffuse that the public knows everything, sees everything in real time. It’s a game changer! We are far from the small microcosm which dissects the trends each season, or from a privileged few who decide what we will find in the big brands next season.
The digital era, “see now, buy now” and, above all, fast fashion, has completely revolutionized this sector. Today, you find Gucci and Givenchy at some big, well-known brands three, four or five months before the models come out in their own boutiques. Does the culture of parades and seasonality still have meaning? Finally, these are questions that we are working on ourselves...
The final word...
Fashion shows play a vital role in the fashion industry, allowing designers to be put forward. Among them, Tranoï, which has made a specialty of unearthing new talents.
I hope I was able to help you better understand how this event works. At the end of our interview, Armand Hadida told me about Tranoï's future projects, and their ideas for the next editions. If my lips are sealed, I can assure you they will shake things up...
Finally, I would like to thank David Hadida, Marco Pili, Armand Hadida and Laura Ferranti for taking the time to receive me and give me this beautiful testimony. And as usual, head to the comments for your questions!
