Atelier Bertrand: when luxury leather becomes affordable

Beautiful leather is very expensive.

I feel like I've repeated this phrase thousands of times in recent years, and not without bitterness! For you, as for me... Because to be completely honest, beautiful leather pieces are so expensive that I didn't own a jacket myself until last year.

Even though I had seen lots of them go by, I put off this purchase until later: I wanted to get the best, and I was ready to save a large sum for it.

However, today I would like to introduce you to a brand that is trying to change the game. His ambition? Offering high quality leather pieces at competitive prices...

Atelier Bertrand, the story of an enthusiast

Atelier Bertrand is a young brand founded and run by one man: Jérôme Bertrand.

A big fan of fashion since his adolescence — particularly leather pieces — he has dedicated the last five years to unearthing the best players on the market. He scoured the most qualified French tanneries and manufacturers , until finally reaching his objective in 2015: he marketed his very first luxury leather jackets, at attractive prices.

To do this, it now operates according to a pre-order system , or "made-to-order": each piece ordered is designed especially for you, following a private meeting with the founder. It can thus do without the usual costs of storage or physical store, in addition to offering a personalized product according to the customer's needs.

Continuing its momentum, the brand is even starting to extend its offering to other products such as belts and card holders.

So know that, behind a website that is still a bit rough, there is in fact a real gem! One of those somewhat confidential “good deals”, which we are always excited to share with you.

Let's start with its flagship piece, which is the jacket...

The “Biker” jacket made in France — “Luxury” range (€990)

A luxury devoid of marketing

“Luxury” is a term to be used sparingly and carefully when talking about clothing.

In my opinion, if we exclude all the criteria of prestige, communication and image, when we talk about "luxury quality" or "ultra-luxury brands" , we're talking about the best in ready-to-wear. Without exception.

A new communication method is unfortunately appearing among more and more brands: mixing mid-range, high-end and “luxury”. As if the words were interchangeable, simply to stand out from the entry level.

However, if we can find a thousand and one reasons to criticize luxury houses , it is despite everything this little "plus" that does indeed exist, this little notch of quality above the very high end, which makes even enthusiasts feel a little enthusiasm at the mention of the "big names " — even though they know their abuse like the back of their hand.

If I explain all this to you, it is so that you can understand the value of what Atelier Bertrand wants to offer with its jackets: they are made in the same workshops as these brands, with the same quality of skins and the same level finishes... but with the margins of a "direct to consumer" brand.

High-end tailoring

The workshops of a major French luxury house

If the making of Atelier Bertrand jackets is indeed entrusted to the workshops of a well-known French house... I can't really tell you which one it is.

If you make an appointment with Jérôme, you will see that he is far from being stingy with information: he has a real approach to transparency on the quality of the product, its origin, and even its cost.

However, to avoid any conflict with this house or its workshops, it seemed wiser to me to keep quiet the name. Let's just say that it is particularly recognized for its very stylish leathers and that, when it releases a model with a similar level of complexity, made in this same French workshop, it sells it for around €5,000... Those in the know might guess who I'm talking about...

Huge sums for a jacket, which allows you to put the price of the one you have in front of you into context: the €990 may seem expensive at first glance, but when you realize what such a piece should cost, you quickly understand that it's a business.

A piece made with care

In addition to giving you the satisfaction of wearing a product made in our beautiful country, this manufacturing is above all a guarantee of quality. We notice this through many small details, much more careful than usual in this price range.

Whether it's the piping covering the edge of the zips, the seams creating a small fold in the style of an English seam, or the laminated edges and cuffs of the jacket , we see that nothing has been left to chance. Cutting and assembly are carried out with precision.

To ensure the comfort of the piece, the brand chooses all its linings in acetate-cupro. More expensive than a 100% viscose lining, it also has a more silky feel and appearance, while offering excellent breathability .

Metal supplies are not left out: solid brass buttons – nickel-free to avoid possible allergies – and zips from the “Excella” range from YKK . Without wanting to be a "clothing geek", I assure you that their smooth glide, and the impression of robustness that emanates from them, brings a real little something extra to the piece!

What about material use?

It's a concept that we never think about when we don't know how leather objects are made, but it plays an extremely important role in its price and the quality of the finished product.

Leather is a natural material, coming from an animal. During his life, he will not maintain perfect skin in every respect. . However, when you want to produce a high-end piece, you have to sort and cut the different areas of the same skin by hand so that they are all of the same level. Logically, this process uses much more material than if we had lower requirements...

This jacket uses a lot of material: to cut the 38 pieces of leather that make it up , you need up to 7 skins for everything to be perfect.

It is a long and tedious job, which is done directly by the expert eye of the craftsman. It greatly increases production costs, while the leather used is already expensive to begin with!

Let's talk about the quality of this leather...

An exceptional French tannery

A beautiful leather jacket is above all a very beautiful skin.

As for his clothing workshops, Jérôme chose a tannery that works in ultra-luxury . Once again, I can only guess: the leather used here is exactly the same as that of certain women's bags, those of a brand considered "the best" in the field. Its old models gain value over time, as they are so prestigious... There are two possible candidates, I'll let your imagination run wild!

The skins are all of exclusively European origin, then worked in France.

With this information given, let's say that when it comes to leather, a picture is worth a thousand words. I am amazed by the way it captures the light, by its flexibility and its touch.

As someone who hardly wears black, I find that here, the color emphasizes the nobility of the material and the depth of the dye.

Don't worry though, if you prefer blue, camel or green, you won't miss the choice!

Personalization galore

A substantial choice

The other big strong point of Atelier Bertrand is customization, a good part of which does not incur any additional costs for the customer.

Beyond the multiple basic styles offered – from the overshirt to the perfecto, including the bomber jacket – you will see that the brand has more than one trick up its sleeve!

Let's start with the choice of leathers: whether you prefer lambskin or goatskin suede, they are available in a wide range of colors. Moreover, the tannery supplying Atelier Bertrand's suede leathers is no exception when it comes to smooth leathers, and also supplies big names in French luxury and high-end goods.

As a bonus and only on black, the brand offers different finishes, such as fulled lamb , and the lamb scarf .

In terms of design, if it is not possible to do absolutely what you want, you can remove details from one of the eight existing models (zips, pockets, tab, etc.). In addition, you can adjust the sleeves to your length for free : no more sizing problems for slightly short arms, like mine!

Other options to go further

Now, let's list the paid options, which may interest those who want an even more personalized product:

• All these colors are the same price. However, if the samples here were not enough for you, it would possibly be possible to work on an exclusive and unique color for €240 ! For the more connoisseurs among you, the brand is even able to find you rarer or exotic skins, such as velvet reindeer whose suppleness and softness are unrivaled.

• The brand also has an offer entirely tailored to your needs! For €290, you can either provide your measurements (corresponding to a jacket that already suits you well), or take them directly by appointment with the brand, at its designer .

• Isn't that still enough? No problem. Jérôme can even, upon quote, offer you a design based on your own inspirations. On the other hand, here, count on a much higher additional cost. It all depends on the piece chosen and its level of complexity, but consider that to make your own pattern and work on your own design, it will be at least double the price... Always more affordable than going to a luxury house, that said.

Well, after all that, you may be saying to yourself that this brand is not made for you, because it is too expensive despite the quality...

Well, here too, Atelier Bertrand has thought of you!

“Accessible high-end” jackets (€690)

A quality product for smaller budgets

Better skins, better workshops... I can only understand and applaud Jérôme's approach. But as competitive as its luxury range may be, it also wanted to be able to address a wider audience.

Well aware that not everyone could spend €990 on a jacket, Atelier Bertrand has recently offered a range of more affordable leathers at €690... with the same level of manufacturing , the same customization options, the same variety of models, and in the same workshops! All on leather that remains truly excellent.

It’s such a recent extension of its offering that we’re announcing it to you exclusively here! To access it, you must contact Jérôme directly, as you will not yet find this range on his website. To tell you the truth, Jérôme was hesitant to communicate about it so early... What do you want, when I learned of its existence, I insisted on being able to talk to you about it because I told myself that it would interest a good number of people. 'between you !

Beautiful leather from Puy-De-Dôme

So how can the brand offer a second range at such a price? She simply chose to “source” less expensive leather.

It was in Puy-de-Dôme that he finally managed to find a tannery with more affordable but high quality hides. And just like for the "luxury" version, the workshop only selects the very first choice parts, devoid of veins, hollow areas, or other real defects.

In fact, Jérôme wanted to offer this product from the start, even before creating the luxury range. However, it took him more years to find this tannery which, despite its margin structure, would allow him to maintain his requirements while offering beautiful hides for €690... still entirely made in France .

But then, what is the difference with the luxury range? Honestly, in a photo, you'll probably have a hard time seeing it.

This is also one of the characteristics of leather: beyond the question of more visible defects, it is a material which is understood as much by the saturation of its pigments or its touch, as by the way in which it takes the light. You have to see it move, react, in order to be able to compare the quality of two skins.

Let's say that the luxury range has a slightly more shimmering light intake , greater flexibility, and something more in the depth of colors.

Beyond that, this “accessible” range remains very impressive for the price offered , especially while maintaining such entirely French tailoring.

As for personalization?

For the moment, the brand only has a more limited palette, on immersed lamb. As for suede, it is only available in this range in black suede lambskin, and comes from the same tannery as the first.

Affordable belts

If Atelier Bertrand's flagship piece remains the jacket, the brand has recently also had products with a more accessible positioning on small leather goods. Starting with the belts, on which it offers three models: two formal belts of different widths, and a slightly more creative reversible belt!

The dress belt (€69)

For those looking for something wearable with a suit or chinos, two different designs are available: a very classic and rather formal 30mm wide belt , with a rectangular buckle, and another a little more discreet , whose 25mm wide can giving a more precious look, which is reinforced by its more rounded buckle shape.

Available in smooth or grained leather, they are sold in a single size, adjustable at a low cost from a shoemaker (no more than €5), or directly by the brand before sending if you are sure of your size!

This allows you to have a length perfectly adapted to your size , rather than increments by 5cm as we usually find, and frees you from unnecessary returns in the event of an error in the choice of size.

The reversible belt (€99)

For those who would like a more original and casual model , the brand has created a belt with a little twist on the buckle: two shapes called "Stadium" and "C-Shape" are available. They have the advantage of being detachable in one movement, and of hiding the overlapping section of the belt once closed.

What do I like about this design? If you were to gain or lose a few kilos and had to shift the closure of a hole, the appearance of the belt would not change since the panel is hidden!

Size wise, no adjustment to be made here: the belt is 30 mm wide, and is available from size 75 to 115.

The brand was also interested in playing with materials, each time combining a grained and smooth side, available in numerous color combinations.

Jérôme told me that the idea was to always offer a color that was fairly easy to wear, combined with a more original color that could occasionally add a touch of fun to your outfits!

Here are some of them (smooth and grained order): red and cigar, black and petrol blue, gold and mustard, burgundy and clay, chocolate and sky blue...

I personally opted for the C-Shaped buckle, which I find to have a sleeker shape, as well as an “olive/off-white” combo. I can see myself using the first side to make a little shades of green in an outfit, and using the second to create a reminder of color with a pair of off-white sneakers!

The construction and details...

Let’s get to the making! As with the jackets' metal hardware, the buckles are made of solid brass, with a hypoallergenic nickel-free finish.

All models are made in a workshop labeled Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant , in the Limoges region. The edges are sanded and dyed by hand for a clean finish, and the classic belts are laminated with leather .

Fully European leathers, with controlled provenance

To offer entirely French manufacturing at this price, without compromising quality, the brand has chosen to source its leather from a Spanish tannery. All its skins are of Spanish or French origin. In this case, Atelier Bertrand opts for a mineral rather than vegetable dye.

Note that although vegetable tanning is very popular for the patina it takes on over time, it is not suitable for a model designed to keep an unchanged appearance over the years, and for which we would like to retain the initial color! Furthermore, it does not allow certain very bright colors to be obtained.

As for the linings of the classic models, they are in full-grain cowhide leather, vegetable-tanned which will develop a patina over time, selected from a French tannery dating from 1890. Everything is therefore well controlled in terms of the origin of the materials!

Luxury card holders made accessible (€85 and €119)

Two sizes, two possibilities

To finish in style, let's talk about the card holder, the brand's latest product!

Given the precious and less functional nature of the object, Jérôme has once again focused on a luxurious positioning, betting that customers will prefer to put a little more into this accessory. Made from full-grain grained calfskin , it is available in two different formats.

First, a large folding card holder (€119) with six card slots and two large interior slots. It will be able to hold all your cards, including our dear French identity card , whose original format is the dread of small leather goods brands. That said, you will have to be a little conciliatory about the folding of the card holder, which will not be completely symmetrical due to the presence of the card...

Then, a small classic format (€85), with two compartments on each side and a central slot. Design-wise, I like the twist in the form of a geometric notch, which brings a touch of discreet originality.

This model will be more suitable for days when you want to have very light pockets.

Advanced finishes

In order to offer a more luxurious product, the brand has taken the finishes a little further than on the belt.

Here too, the edges are sanded and coated by hand , but they have been treated with a double coat of stain for a smooth appearance and pleasant to the touch. This detail is not trivial: very time-consuming, it requires waiting for the first coat to dry before applying the second.

Second, let's talk threading . The craftsman runs a threading iron over the seams – a small, entirely manual tool – to make them fit into the leather, making the edges stand out nicely at the same time . This is the kind of finish that you only find in very high-end and luxury.

Precious leathers

Leather is not left out here either! This full-grain grained calfskin is found at a tannery with the “living heritage company” label, in the Millau region. It also supplies the major French luxury houses with small leather goods, including one that you all know, and where we find this same leather... (A hint: it is probably still the most prestigious in France in quality term.)

Come on, just for fun, know that he also offers them in magnificent exotic leathers , such as Nile perch, alligator or ostrich leg.

I fell in love with the rendering of Nile perch, a material that I didn't know at all! Once its skin has been worked, the scales of this fish have a finish that could almost be described as “suede”!

I was also surprised by the ostrich leg, with a very particular pattern, formed by a large line of central scales surrounded by smaller ones.

The final word

This address is a real godsend for enthusiasts, or amateurs keen to have the best quality/price ratio.

Like me, if you have long drooled over luxury leather pieces, but were frustrated by their prohibitive prices, Atelier Bertrand is probably the brand you have been waiting for without knowing it. Likewise if you want to create the jacket of your dreams.

Jérôme even confided to me his long-term vision: if his brand develops well, he hopes to become a real reference on the market, where we could find all leather fashion objects, from jackets to clutches. from the computer to the bag, the gloves, or even the shoes... Always with the same quality and competitiveness requirements!

I wish him much success in this great project.