Atelier Bertrand: when luxury leather becomes affordable

Beautiful leather is very expensive.

I feel like I've said this sentence a thousand times in recent years, and not without bitterness! For you, as for me... Because to be completely honest, beautiful leather pieces are so expensive that I didn't own a jacket myself until last year.

Even though I had seen loads of them, I put off buying them until later: I wanted to get the best, and I was prepared to save a lot of money for it.

Yet today, I would like to introduce you to a brand that is trying to change the game. Its ambition? To offer high-quality leather pieces at competitive prices...

Atelier Bertrand, the story of a passionate man

Atelier Bertrand is a young brand founded and run by one man: Jérôme Bertrand.

A great fashion lover since his teenage years — especially of leather pieces — he has dedicated the last five years to finding the best players on the market. He scoured the most qualified French tanneries and manufacturers , until finally reaching his goal in 2015: he marketed his very first luxury leather jackets, at attractive prices.

To do this, it now operates on a pre-order system , or "made-to-order": each piece ordered is designed especially for you, following a private meeting with the founder. It can thus do without the usual costs of storage or physical store, in addition to offering a personalized product according to the needs of the customer.

Continuing its momentum, the brand is even starting to extend its offering to other products such as belts and card holders.

So, you should know that behind a website that is still a little rough, there is actually a real gem! One of those slightly confidential "good deals" that we are always excited to share with you.

Let’s start with its flagship piece, which is the jacket...

The “Biker” jacket made in France — “Luxury” range (€990)

Luxury without marketing

“Luxury” is a term to be used sparingly and with caution when talking about clothing.

In my opinion, if we exclude all the criteria of prestige, communication and image, when we speak of "luxury quality" or "ultra-luxury brands" , we are talking about the best in ready-to-wear. Without exception.

A new communication flaw is unfortunately appearing among more and more brands: amalgamating the mid-range, the high-end and the "luxury". As if the words were interchangeable, simply to stand out from the entry-level.

Now, if one can find a thousand and one reasons to criticize luxury houses , it is nevertheless this little "extra" which really does exist, this little notch of quality above the very high end, which makes even enthusiasts feel a little enthusiasm at the mention of the "big names" - even though they know their excesses like the back of their hand.

If I explain all this to you, it is so that you can understand the value of what Atelier Bertrand wants to offer with its jackets: they are made in the same workshops as these brands, with the same quality of leathers and the same level of finishes... but with the margins of a "direct to consumer" brand.

A high-flying confection

The workshops of a major French luxury house

Although the making of Atelier Bertrand jackets is indeed entrusted to the workshops of a well-known French house... I can't really tell you which one it is.

If you make an appointment with Jérôme, you will see that he is far from being stingy with information: he has a real approach to transparency regarding the quality of the product, its origin, and even its cost.

However, to avoid any conflict with this house or its workshops, it seemed wiser to me to keep its name secret. Let's just say that it is particularly known for its very strong style of leathers and that, when it releases a model with a similar level of complexity, made in this same French workshop, it sells it for around €5,000... Those in the know might guess who I'm talking about...

These are huge sums for a jacket, which helps to put the price of the one you have before your eyes into context: the €990 may seem expensive at first glance, but when you realise what such a piece should cost, you quickly realise that it is a bargain.

A piece made with care

In addition to giving you the satisfaction of wearing a product made in our beautiful country, this confection is above all a guarantee of quality. We notice it through many small details, much more neat than usual in this price range.

Whether it's the piping covering the edge of the zips, the seams creating a small fold like an English seam, or the glued edges and lapels of the jacket , we see that nothing has been left to chance. The cutting and assembly are carried out with precision.

To ensure the comfort of the piece, the brand chooses all its linings in acetate-cupro. More expensive than a 100% viscose lining, it also has a silkier feel and appearance, while presenting excellent breathability .

Metal fittings are not left out: solid brass buttons - nickel-free to avoid possible allergies - and zips from the YKK "Excella" range. . Without wanting to be a "clothing geek", I assure you that their smooth glide, and the impression of robustness that emanates from them, brings a real little extra to the piece!

What about material employment?

It's a concept that you never think about when you don't know how leather goods are made, but it plays an extremely important role in its price and the quality of the finished product.

Leather is a natural material, coming from an animal. During its life, it will not keep a perfect skin in every way. . However, when you want to produce a high-end piece, you have to sort and cut the different areas of the same skin by hand so that they are all of the same level. Logically, this process uses a lot more material than if you had lower requirements...

This jacket has a very substantial material usage: to cut the 38 pieces of leather that make it up , it takes up to 7 skins to make everything perfect.

It is a long and tedious job, which is done directly by the expert eye of the craftsman. It greatly increases production costs, while the leather used is already expensive to begin with!

Let's talk about the quality of this leather...

An exceptional French tannery

A beautiful leather jacket is, above all, very beautiful leather.

As with his clothing workshops, Jérôme chose a tannery that works in the ultra-luxury sector . Again, I can only express myself in riddles: the leather used here is exactly the same as that of some women's bags, those of a brand considered to be "the best" in the field. His old models gain value over time, they are so prestigious... There are two possible candidates, I'll leave it to your imagination!

The skins are all of exclusively European origin, then worked in France.

With this information given, let's say that when it comes to leather, a picture is worth a thousand words. I am amazed by the way it catches the light, by its flexibility and its touch.

I hardly ever wear black, but I find that the colour here emphasises the nobility of the material and the depth of the dye.

Don't worry though, if you prefer blue, camel or green, you won't be short of choice!

Personalization galore

A substantial choice

The other major strength of Atelier Bertrand is customization, a large part of which does not incur any additional cost for the customer.

Beyond the many basic styles offered — from the overshirt to the perfecto, including the bomber jacket — you will see that the brand has more than one trick up its sleeve!

Let's start with the choice of leathers: whether you prefer lambskin or suede goatskin, they come in a wide range of colors. Moreover, the tannery supplying Atelier Bertrand's suede leathers is not far behind when it comes to smooth leathers, and also supplies big names in French luxury and high-end.

As a bonus and only on black, the brand offers different finishes, such as milled lambskin , and the scarf lamb .

Design question, if it is not possible to do absolutely what you want, you can remove details on one of the eight existing models (zips, pockets, tongue...). In addition, you have the possibility to adjust the sleeves to your length for free : no more size problems for slightly short arms, like mine!

Other options to go further

Now, let's list the paid options, which may interest those who want an even more personalized product:

• All these colors are at the same price. However, if the samples here are not enough for you, it would possibly be possible to work on an exclusive and new color for €240 ! For the most knowledgeable among you, the brand is even able to find you rarer or more exotic skins, such as reindeer velvet whose suppleness and softness are unmatched.

• The brand also has an offer entirely made to your measurements! For €290, you can either provide your measurements (corresponding to a jacket that already fits you well), or take them directly in an appointment with the brand, at its pattern maker .

• Still not enough? No problem. Jérôme can even, upon quote, offer you a design made from your own inspirations. On the other hand, here, expect a much higher additional cost. It all depends on the piece chosen and its level of complexity, but estimate that to make your own pattern and work on your own design, it will be at least double the price... Still more affordable than going to a luxury house, that said.

Well, after all that, you might be thinking that this brand is not for you, because it is too expensive despite the quality...

Well, here too, Atelier Bertrand has thought of you!

“Affordable high-end” jackets (€690)

A quality product for smaller budgets

Better skins, better workshops... I can only understand and applaud Jérôme's approach. But as competitive as his luxury range may be, he also wanted to be able to address a wider audience.

Well aware that not everyone could spend €990 on a jacket, Atelier Bertrand has recently offered a range of more affordable leathers at €690... with the same level of manufacturing , the same customization options, the same variety of models, and in the same workshops! All on leather that remains truly excellent.

This is such a recent extension of its offer that we are announcing it exclusively here! To access it, you must contact Jérôme directly, because you will not yet find this range on his website. To tell you the truth, Jérôme was hesitant to communicate about it so early... What do you want, when I learned of its existence, I insisted on being able to tell you about it because I thought that it would interest a good number of you!

A beautiful leather from Puy-De-Dôme

So how can the brand offer a second range at such a price? It simply chose to "source" less expensive leather.

It was in Puy-de-Dôme that he finally managed to find a tannery with more affordable but high-quality hides. And just like for the "luxury" version, the workshop only selects the very best parts, free of veins, hollow areas, or other real defects.

In fact, Jérôme wanted to offer this product from the start, even before creating the luxury range. However, it took him more years to find this tannery which, despite its margin structure, would allow him to maintain his requirements while offering beautiful skins for €690... still entirely made in France .

But what is the difference with the luxury range? Honestly, in a photo, you will probably have trouble seeing it.

This is also one of the characteristics of leather: beyond the question of more visible defects, it is a material that can be understood as much by the saturation of its pigments or its feel, as by the way it catches the light. You have to see it move, react, in order to be able to compare the quality of two skins.

Let's say that the luxury range has a little more shimmering light capture , greater flexibility, and something more in the depth of colors.

Beyond that, this "accessible" range remains very impressive for the price offered , especially by retaining such entirely French manufacturing.

On the customization side?

For the moment, the brand only has a more limited palette, on the dipped lamb. As for the suede, it is only available in this range in black velvet lamb, and comes from the same tannery as the first.

Affordable belts

While Atelier Bertrand's flagship piece remains the jacket, the brand has recently also introduced products with a more accessible positioning in small leather goods. Starting with belts, for which it offers three models: two dressed belts of different widths, and a slightly more creative reversible belt!

The dress belt (€69)

For those looking for something that can be worn with a suit or chinos, two different designs are available: a very classic and rather formal 30mm wide belt with a rectangular buckle, and another a little more discreet , whose 25mm width can give a more precious look, which is reinforced by its more rounded buckle shape.

Available in smooth or grained leather, they are sold in a single size, adjustable at low cost at a shoemaker (no more than €5), or directly by the brand before sending if you are sure of your size!

This allows you to have a length perfectly adapted to your size , rather than 5cm increments as is usually found, and saves you from having to make an unnecessary return in the event of an error in choosing the size.

The reversible belt (€99)

For those who would like a more original and casual model , the brand has created a belt with a little twist on the buckle: two shapes called "Stadium" and "C-Shape" are available. They have the advantage of being detachable in one movement, and of hiding the overlapping side of the belt once closed.

What I like about this design? If you were to gain or lose a few pounds and have to move the closure of a hole, the appearance of the belt would not change since the panel is hidden!

Size-wise, no adjustments are required here: the belt is 30 mm wide, and is available from size 75 to 115.

The brand has also taken an interest in playing with materials, each time combining a grained and smooth side, available in numerous color combinations.

Jérôme told me that the idea was to always offer a color that was easy enough to wear, combined with a more original color that could occasionally add a touch of fun to your outfits!

Here are a few (smooth and grained order): red and cigar, black and petrol blue, gold and mustard, burgundy and clay, chocolate and sky blue...

I personally opted for the C-Shaped buckle, which I find to have a more racy shape, as well as an "olive/off-white" combo. I can see myself using the first side to create a little shade of green in an outfit, and using the second to create a color reminder with a pair of off-white sneakers!

The making and the details...

Let’s get to the making! As with the metal fittings of the jackets, the buckles are made of solid brass, with a hypoallergenic nickel-free finish.

All models are made in a workshop labeled Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant , in the Limoges region. The edges are sanded and dyed by hand for a clean finish, and the classic belts are laminated with leather .

Entirely European leathers, with controlled origin

To offer an entirely French confection at this price, without compromising quality, the brand has chosen to source its leather from a Spanish tannery. All its hides are of Spanish or French origin. In this case, Atelier Bertrand opts for a mineral dye rather than a vegetable one.

Please note that while vegetable tanning is highly prized for the patina it acquires over time, it is not suitable for a model designed to maintain an unchanged appearance over the years, and for which you would like to preserve the initial colour! Furthermore, it does not allow you to obtain certain very bright colours.

As for the linings of the classic models, they are made of full-grain cowhide leather, vegetable tanned which will develop a patina over time, selected from a French tannery dating back to 1890. Everything is therefore well controlled in terms of the origin of the materials!

Luxury card holders made accessible (€85 and €119)

Two sizes, two possibilities

To finish on a high note, let's talk about the card holder, the brand's latest product!

Given the precious and less functional nature of the object, Jérôme has once again focused on a luxurious positioning, betting that customers will prefer to spend a little more on this accessory. Made from full-grain calfskin , it is available in two different sizes.

First, a large folding card holder (€119) with six card slots and two large interior slots. It will hold all your cards, including our beloved French identity card , whose original format is the bane of small leather goods brands. That said, you will have to be a little accommodating on the folding of the card holder, which will not be entirely symmetrical due to the presence of the card...

Next, a small classic format (€85), with two compartments on each side and a central slot. Design-wise, I like the twist in the form of a geometric notch, which brings a touch of discreet originality.

This model will be more suitable for days when you want to have very light pockets.

Advanced finishes

With a view to offering a more luxurious product, the brand has taken the finishing touches a little further than on the belt.

Here too, the slices are sanded and coated by hand , but they have been treated with a double layer of stain for a smooth and pleasant appearance to the touch. This detail is not insignificant: very time-consuming, it requires waiting for the first layer to dry, before applying the second.

Second, let’s talk threading. . The craftsman passes a threading iron over the seams — a small, entirely manual tool — in order to make them fit into the leather, bringing out the edges nicely at the same time . This is the kind of finish that is only found in the very high end and luxury.

Precious leathers

Leather is not left out here either! This full grain calfskin is found at a tannery labeled "living heritage company" , in the Millau region. It also supplies the major French luxury houses for small leather goods, including one that you all know, and where we find this same leather... (A hint: it is probably still the most prestigious in France in terms of quality.)

Come on, just for fun, know that they also come in magnificent exotic leathers , such as Nile perch, alligator or ostrich leg.

I fell in love with the rendering of the Nile perch, a material that I did not know at all! Once its skin is worked, the scales of this fish have a rendering that we would almost call "suede"!

I was also surprised by the ostrich leg, with its very particular pattern, formed by a wide line of central scales surrounded by smaller ones.

The final word

This address is a real boon for enthusiasts, or amateurs keen to get the best quality/price ratio.

Like me, if you have long drooled over luxury leather pieces, but were frustrated by their prohibitive prices, Atelier Bertrand is probably the brand you were waiting for without knowing it. Likewise if you want to create the jacket of your dreams.

Jérôme even told me his long-term vision: if his brand develops well, he hopes to become a real reference on the market, where you could find all fashion items in leather, from jackets to computer cases, bags, gloves, or even shoes... Always with the same demands for quality and competitiveness!

I wish him every success in this wonderful project.