When we begin to know Benoît well, we notice a few recurring points in his style. Firstly, he really likes to integrate urban techwear into his everyday outfits.
To be more exact, he told me as I write to you that he has precisely seven pairs... Sacred Benedict!
However, he has his very specific tastes: he is indifferent to Chelsea boots, which are nevertheless the most common pair of ankle boots, and probably considered the easiest to wear. We therefore understand by deduction that he mostly has zipped ankle boots in his wardrobe.
No zip here, but a strap... Could we have found an alternative? 😉
Even if I agree with Benoît on this opinion (very personal, by the way) of the Chelsea boot, we must admit that when you have seven pairs of ankle boots, zipped and almost only zipped, it starts to become boring. So we had to find a new option!
And this is precisely where the idea of the jodhpur comes in: this characterful ankle boot, with its strap that elegantly encircles the ankle and its equestrian origins.
The Jodhpur, historical ally of the comfort-loving rider
Originally, riding shoes
She is originally from the Jodhpur region of India.
Local riders - considered the elite of Indian riding - traditionally wore them with the pants of the same name: very loose at the thighs and pelvis, even baggy, they are tight from the knee and all over the calf.
1800s: Three Indian servants at the polo game, wearing the traditional jodhpur pants/boots combo. (Credits: Gentleman's Gazette)
Few sources seem to be certain and exhaustive on the history of this shoe. We do not know, for example, whether the ankle boot in the form we know today preceded pants, or whether it arrived after them.
Short boots stopping at the ankle have always existed almost everywhere in the world, especially for simple walking use.
Shoes popularized by the English
What we do know, however, is that the English were won over by these pants, which were much more comfortable for riding in hot weather than the tight-fitting models which restricted their movements.
It would appear that the combined use of these two coins was introduced to the court of Victoria by Sir Pratap Singh, son of the Maharaja of Jodhpur, through his dressed dashing polo team, in 1897.
Combined with "half-chaps", a sort of riding gaiter, they could completely replace thick and rigid cavalry boots, while adequately protecting the calves from friction.
A modern version of "half-chaps" worn with Jodhpur, which protect the rider's leg.
But beyond its practical aspect, aesthetics played a major role in their popularity with the English : Jodhpur breeches, worn with ankle boots, made it possible to refine the entire silhouette thanks to the play on volumes.
And of course, like many men's pieces favored by the English at that time, the jodhpur boot became a classic that endured through the ages.
Nowadays, it's the perfect alternative to the Chelsea. The jodhpur is versatile, elegant and, even if it is not linked to its origins, this nonchalant strap has an undeniable rock side.
They walked to ride a horse, they still walk to ride a motorcycle.
Septième Width, a partner we like
Who better than Septième Largeur as a partner to allow us to offer you these ankle boots?
For many of you, it is a brand that you have already heard about in our pages, or that I have already recommended to you in my answers to your questions.
It is a family business, led by Mathieu Preiss and his uncle Marcos Fernandez, founder of the brand. They fully share our values of good products, with timeless design and true quality standards .
The two partners, Marcos and Mathieu, eyes riveted on the product.
Through a direct sales model relying heavily on the Web, very low marketing costs and modest store rents
Marcos Fernandez, a tenor in the shoe market
When I spoke with Mathieu, he told me very frankly:
Marcos is like a mentor in my eyes.
And when we see this gentleman’s CV, we understand why! He began working in the world of shoes in 1969 at Pierre d'Alby as a sales director, then as a general agent at Sebago in 1973.
He was also at the origin of the importation of the emblematic Doc Martens in France in 1979, through the network of his first brand: Bowen . He subsequently created and chaired Markowski and Emling , before founding Septième Largeur in 2009 with Mathieu.
At almost 70 years old, he still has an entrepreneurial spirit, having launched Orban's last year, a quality entry-level shoe brand. And of course, it is he who created all the models and collections of these two brands.
Marcos Fernandez, great man of shoes!
When we add up all these dates, that gives him almost half a century of experience in shoes . A great know-how which has earned him a great reputation within the calceophile community
Full-grain calfskin in an exclusive color
Let's get back to our boots. A pair of high-end shoes starts with good leather.
The stem
You can't cheat on leather with shoes!
Chrome tanning VS vegetable tanning
Vegetable tanning is of great interest for a finish that develops a stronger patina over time (for example on oiled leather boots). But when you want to sustainably maintain a color and appearance very close to those of the new shoe, chrome has its say.
Furthermore, vegetable tanning somewhat limits the colors that can be produced on the leather. There is rarely a single “right way” to achieve the execution of a beautiful product. What matters is to use the one best suited to the desired objectives and, above all, that it is carried out with expertise.
Speaking of colors, Septième Largeur produces its own mixes, specific to the brand. They are then applied with a brush in the workshop, to initially colorless skin. After which, the dye is finalized using a product that closes the pores.
This homemade aniline dyeing process is more stable than that of flag dyeing, which a patina craftsman could usually use.
And for the occasion, we have developed an exclusive color with the brand: a beautiful deep mahogany. A little bolder than a classic brown, but more versatile than a burgundy or plum. We really wanted a compromise!
We end up with a shade full of nuances, with character but easy to combine.
Small bonus: you will receive your pair with a light glaze on the heel counter and on the toe, which allows the shoe to catch the light well. It can be removed, or done again with the right products and the appropriate technique .
The light glaze allows the leather to catch the light nicely.
A high-end Spanish assembly, made to last
Solid Goodyear construction
First of all, a Goodyear assembly, durable, robust and which can be resoled almost indefinitely... produced under closed engraving! This is a very aesthetic detail, uncommon in this price range among French brands. We thus obtain a beautiful sole, smooth and uniform, where the seam is hidden.
It also has a practical aspect: it protects the petit-point seam of the Goodyear from humidity, while helping to “make the shoe” during the first wears.
A little nod to the brand, there are seven nails.
If you need a little refresher on the benefits of Goodyear construction and on shoe construction in general, I suggest you read the second part of our shoe guide .
You will also find a raised shank, which contributes greatly to the overall look of the shoe. It prevents it from sagging when you walk, and provides optimal support for the foot.
The shank, a raised part, prevents the shoe from sagging when you walk.
Leather if you want some, here it is
We start with a 100% bovine leather lining, semi-vegetable tanned.
A good lining is the guarantee of a pair that will last longer. On the one hand, because when you sweat, the acidity of the sweat attacks the inside of your shoe little by little.
You understand, nothing beats a leather lining.
The heel is also 100% leather. This may seem trivial, but many brands will instead use salpa, a type of bonded leather, which is less durable. We can see the difference thanks to the various layers of leather superimposed and compressed (yes, it is not wood contrary to what the hardness might suggest!).
Since leather comes from an animal, a real layer of leather cannot be much thicker than a hide. Unlike here, you will instead see two or three large, thick layers on a salpa heel.
Advanced finishes, as aesthetic as they are functional
A wooden dowel, signature of Septième Largeur
The pegging supports the shank and ensures that the shape of the shoe is maintained throughout the ports. These are these small bamboo nails, flexible and robust, inserted on each side of the shank.
Bamboo nails support the shank for greater strength.
Finely crafted leather trimming
To put it simply, it is the incision made in the edge of two pieces of leather in contact: they fit together rather than just overlapping each other.
As a result, we obtain beautiful flat and uniform joints, rather than “blisters”.
Attention to detail
It is a zamack buckle, light and stainless , which closes the strap.
Made of zamack, the buckle will not move.
The entire back is reinforced by a strip of leather , going up from the buttress.
Moreover, the seams are made in 5 points per centimeter . The thread is well chosen in relation to the diameter of the needles, for a clean and straight result. It may seem silly said like that, but it has its impact!
The leather band is also topped with a grosgrain ribbon to make them easier to put on.
How to choose your size ?
The brand adopts an English sizing system. Do not hesitate to refer to the size guide for equivalences.
How to wear jodhpur boots?
Obviously, the elegance of jodhpurs lends itself perfectly to the suit. Worn with a navy ensemble, the turtleneck stands out and warms up the outfit. The jodhpurs subtly echo it and recall the brown of the bag. A little London spirit emerges from the outfit! Note in passing the unexpected green cover, which adds a twist to the whole. (Hircus turtleneck, BonneGueule navy suit , Monsieur London clutch, Léo & Violette bag)
Casual shirt, jeans and blazer: a combination you already know very well. What is interesting here is to see to what extent shoes “finish” a look. Here, it's really a typical Benoit look, he really comes dressed like this in the morning, when he's not doing techwear. It would have worked just as well with white sneakers but would not convey the same notions: the ankle boots, more refined, support the elegance of the blazer and the pocket square (Vicomte A shirt, BonneGueule donegal blazer , Very Good Lord blog cover, gray BonneGueule jeans )
Here, the outfit is built around shades of blue and variations of brown: it's a sure value for men's style. It is based on the principles of casual chic , with a coat that structures the outfit and whose lapels are reminiscent of those of a blazer. Thanks to the raw canvas, darker and matt, the icing of the jodhpur is highlighted. ( BonneGueule chambray shirt , Inis Meáin sweatshirt - Paris boutique exclusive, BonneGueule camel coat , BonneGueule Japan Line jeans )
Without the coat, the whole remains coherent. The sleeveless vest retains a certain allure through its beautiful flannel, while bringing a more "countryside", gentleman farmer character. For more fantasy, we could also imagine a pouch to slip into the pocket. (Cadot vest)
Geoffrey designs his outfit around a blue shades. Between the gingham check shirt, his woolen collared jacket and his well-washed raw jeans, the look clearly has workwear accents. As a result, the ankle boots bring a double contrast: first of all in style, since they enhance the whole, but also in color to break with the strong presence of blue. ( BonneGueule gingham check shirt , BonneGueule navy jacket , BonneGueule Japan Line jeans )
How to maintain and polish your shoes?
Who better than Mathieu to explain it to you? He has the floor in this video specially filmed for our collaboration!
How to get Jodhpur ankle boots?
You can now find our Johdpur ankle boots on the eshop and in our stores.
