When you start to get to know Benoît well, you notice a few recurring points in his style. First, he really likes to integrate urban techwear into his everyday outfits . And secondly, Benoît loves ankle boots. I even think that apart from sneakers, it's the only shoe he wears on a regular basis.
To be more precise, he confided to me at the very moment I am writing to you that he owns precisely seven pairs... Holy Benedict!
However, he has his own very specific tastes: he is indifferent to Chelsea boots, which are nevertheless the most common pair of boots, and probably considered the easiest to wear. We therefore understand by deduction that he has mostly zipped boots in his wardrobe.
No zip here, but a strap... Have we found an alternative? 😉
Even if I agree with Benoît on this opinion (very personal, by the way) of the Chelsea boot, it must be admitted that when you have seven pairs of ankle boots, zipped and almost only zipped, it starts to become boring... So we had to find a new option!
And that's where the idea of the jodhpur comes in: this characterful boot, with its strap that elegantly encircles the ankle and its equestrian origins.
The Jodhpur, a historic ally of the comfort-loving rider
Originally riding shoes
She is originally from the Jodhpur region of India.
Local riders - considered the elite of Indian horse riding - traditionally wore them with the trousers of the same name: very loose at the thighs and pelvis, even baggy, they are tightened from the knee and over the entire calf.
1800s: Three Indian servants at a game of polo, wearing the traditional jodhpur trousers/boots combo. (Credits: Gentleman's Gazette)
Few sources seem to be certain and exhaustive on the history of this shoe. We do not know, for example, whether the boot in the form we know today preceded the trousers, or if it arrived after them.
Short boots that stop at the ankle have always existed all over the world, especially for simple walking.
Shoes popularized by the English
What we do know, however, is that the English were won over by these trousers, which were much more comfortable for riding in hot weather than the tight models that restricted their movements.
It seems that the combined use of these two coins was introduced to the court of Victoria by Sir Pratap Singh, son of the Maharaja of Jodhpur, through his dressed dashing polo team, in 1897.
Combined with "half-chaps", a type of riding gaiters, they could completely replace thick and rigid cavalry boots, while adequately protecting the calves from friction.
A modern version of the "half-chaps" worn with Jodhpurs, which protect the rider's leg.
But beyond its practical aspect, aesthetics played a big part in their popularity among the English : the Jodhpur breeches, worn with ankle boots, made it possible to refine the entire silhouette thanks to the play of volumes.
And of course, like many men's items popular with the English at the time, the jodhpur boot became a classic that has stood the test of time.
Nowadays, it's the perfect alternative to the Chelsea boot. The jodhpur is versatile, elegant and, even if it's not related to its origins, this nonchalant strap has an undeniable rock edge.
They walked to ride a horse, they still walk to ride a motorcycle.
Seventh Width, a partner as we like them
Who better than Septième Largeur as a partner to allow us to offer you these boots?
For many of you, this is a brand that you have already heard about in our pages, or that I have already recommended to you in my answers to your questions.
It is a family business, led by Mathieu Preiss and his uncle Marcos Fernandez, founder of the brand. They fully share our values of a good product, with a timeless design and real quality standards .
The two partners, Marcos and Mathieu, have their eyes fixed on the product.
Through a direct sales model relying heavily on the Web, very low marketing costs and modest store rents , the brand manages to offer shoes at an affordable price, which really do not have to blush when compared to high-end brands. But the key to their success is probably the precious expertise of Mr. Fernandez .
Marcos Fernandez, a tenor in the shoe market
When I spoke with Mathieu, he told me very frankly:
Marcos is like a mentor to me.
And when you look at this gentleman's CV, you understand why! He started working in the shoe world in 1969 at Pierre d'Alby as a sales director, then as a general agent at Sebago in 1973.
He was also behind the import of the iconic Doc Martens into France in 1979, through the network of his first brand: Bowen . He subsequently created and chaired Markowski and Emling , before founding Septième Largeur in 2009 with Mathieu.
At nearly 70 years old, he still has the entrepreneurial spirit since he launched Orban's last year, a brand of quality entry-level shoes. And of course, he is the one who created all the models and collections of these two brands.
Marcos Fernandez, the great man of shoes!
When you add up all these dates, that gives him almost half a century of experience in shoes . A real know-how that has earned him a great reputation within the calceophile community. . He is even largely credited with the democratization of Goodyear stitching in France. Just that!
Full grain calfskin in an exclusive color
Let’s get back to our boots. A pair of high-end shoes starts with good leather.
The stem is mounted in full-grain calfskin, from a large Italian tannery . It is chrome tanned, which allows for better color retention over time.
You can't cheat on leather with shoes!
Chrome tanning VS vegetable tanning
Vegetable tanning is very useful for a finish that develops a more pronounced patina over time (for example on oiled leather boots). But when you want to maintain a color and appearance that is very close to that of a new shoe over the long term, chrome has its say.
Furthermore, vegetable tanning somewhat limits the colours that can be achieved on leather. There is rarely a single "good method" for achieving a beautiful product. What matters is to use the one that is most suited to the desired objectives and, above all, that it is carried out with expertise.
Speaking of colours, Septième Largeur produces its own blends, specific to the brand. They are then applied with a brush in the workshop, on initially colourless skins. After which, the dye is finalised using a product that closes the pores.
This homemade aniline dyeing process is also more stable than that of a flag dye, which a patina craftsman might usually use.
And for the occasion, we developed an exclusive color with the brand: a beautiful deep mahogany. A little bolder than a classic brown, but more versatile than a burgundy or a plum. We really wanted a compromise!
We end up with a shade full of nuances, with character but easy to match.
Little bonus: you will receive your pair with a light glaze on the counter and on the toe, which allows the shoe to take the light well. It can be removed, or made again with the right products and the right technique .
The light glaze allows the leather to take on the light beautifully.
A high-end Spanish assembly, made to last
Solid Goodyear construction
First of all, a Goodyear construction, durable, robust and which can be resoled almost indefinitely... made under closed engraving! This is a very aesthetic detail, not very common in this price range with French brands. This gives a beautiful sole, smooth and uniform, where the stitching is hidden.
It also has a practical aspect: it protects the Goodyear welt stitching from humidity, while helping to "break in the shoe" when you first wear it. .
A little nod to the brand, there are seven studs.
If you need a little refresher on the benefits of a Goodyear welt and on shoe construction in general, I suggest you read the second part of our shoe guide .
You will also find a raised shank, which greatly contributes to the overall look of the shoe. It prevents it from sagging when walking, and provides optimal support for the foot.
The shank, a raised part, prevents the shoe from sagging when walking.
Leather, if you want it, here it is
We start with a 100% cowhide lining, with semi-vegetable tanning.
A good lining is the guarantee of a pair that will last longer. On the one hand, because when you sweat, the acidity of the sweat attacks the inside of your shoe little by little. . On the other hand, unlike that of a jacket, the lining of a shoe is an integral part of the structure of the shoe: it is as responsible for maintaining its shape as the upper.
As you can see, nothing beats a leather lining.
The heel is also made of 100% leather. This may seem trivial, but many brands will instead use salpa, a type of reconstituted leather, which is less durable. You can see the difference thanks to the various layers of leather superimposed and compressed (yes, it is not wood, contrary to what the hardness might suggest!).
Since leather comes from an animal, a real layer of leather cannot be much thicker than a hide. Unlike here, you will instead see two or three large thick layers on a salpa heel.
Advanced finishes, as aesthetic as they are functional
A wooden dowel, signature of Septième Largeur
The dowel supports the shank and ensures that the shoe maintains its shape over time. These are small, flexible and sturdy bamboo nails inserted on each side of the shank.
Bamboo nails support the shank for added strength.
A finely done leather trimming
To put it simply, it is the incision made in the edge of two pieces of leather in contact: they fit together rather than just overlapping.
As a result, we get nice flat, uniform joints, rather than "blisters".
Attention to detail
It is a zamack buckle, light and stainless , which closes the strap.
Made of zamack, the buckle will not move.
The entire back is reinforced with a strip of leather , running up from the buttress.
Moreover, the seams are made in 5 stitches per centimeter . The thread is well chosen in relation to the diameter of the needles, for a clean and straight result. It may seem silly said like that, but it has its impact!
The leather band is also topped with a grosgrain ribbon to make them easier to put on.
How to choose your size?
The brand adopts an English sizing system. Do not hesitate to refer to the size guide for equivalences.
How to wear jodhpur boots?
Obviously, the elegance of the jodhpurs lends itself perfectly to the suit. Worn with a navy ensemble, the turtleneck stands out and warms up the outfit. The jodhpurs subtly echo it and recall the brown of the bag. A little London spirit emerges from the outfit! Note in passing the unexpected green pocket square, which twists the whole. (Hircus turtleneck, navy BonneGueule suit , Monsieur London pocket square, Léo & Violette bag)
Casual shirt, jeans and blazer: a combination that you already know very well. What is interesting here is to see to what extent shoes come to "finish" a look. Here, it is really a typical look of Benoit, he really comes dressed like that in the morning, when he is not doing techwear. It would have worked just as well with white sneakers but would not convey the same notions: the ankle boots, more refined, emphasize the elegance of the blazer and the pocket square (Vicomte A shirt, BonneGueule donegal blazer , pocket square from the blog Very Good Lord, BonneGueule gray jeans )
Here, the outfit is built around shades of blue and variations of brown: it is a sure value of masculine style. It is based on the principles of casual chic , with a coat that structures the outfit and whose lapels are reminiscent of those of a blazer. Thanks to the raw, darker and matte canvas, the icing of the jodhpurs is highlighted. ( BonneGueule chambray shirt , Inis Meáin sweatshirt - Exclusive to the Paris boutique, BonneGueule camel coat , BonneGueule Japan Line jeans )
Without the coat, the whole thing remains coherent. The sleeveless vest retains a certain allure through its beautiful flannel, while bringing a more "countryside", gentleman farmer cachet. For more fantasy, we could also have imagined a pocket square to slip into the pocket. (Cadot vest)
Geoffrey designs his outfit around a blue monochrome. Between the gingham shirt, his woolen collar jacket and his well-washed raw jeans, the look clearly has workwear accents. As a result, the ankle boots bring a double contrast: first of all in style, since they enhance the whole, but also in color to break with the strong presence of blue. ( BonneGueule gingham shirt , BonneGueule navy jacket , BonneGueule Japan Line jeans )
How to maintain and polish your shoes?
Who better than Mathieu to explain it to you? He has the floor in this video specially filmed for our collaboration!
How to get Jodhpur boots?
You can now find our Johdpur Boots on the e-shop and in our stores.
