File: discovering exotic leathers

Have you noticed that the patterns, prints and embossing python or crocodile have been everywhere for some time?

Incubated among women, the craze for exotic skins is slowly spreading into men's fashion on certain shoes, sneakers, accessories and even clothing.

Disclaimer from Benoit: yes, the question of ethics is addressed at the conclusion of this article! Many of you (and many of us too) are not in favor of the use of animal skins in the fashion and luxury sector. But I think that even for the most vegan among us, it is even more essential to know what we are talking about when a designer uses crocodile, eel or ostrich. To learn to recognize a skin, and the use that can be made of it. It is essential to have an objective view of these matters if we want to denounce their abuses. And that’s what Romain did, with this long, comprehensive article on the subject. Why such an attraction for such rare, expensive materials, whose use is so criticized and denounced? Answer in the following lines...

€270,000. This is the price of the most expensive bag in the world, sold at auction in early 2016. An emblematic model from the house of Hermès, the Birkin, made of Nile crocodile, dyed in a gradient, adorned with an 18-carat diamond clasp.

Obviously, the materials are incomparable, the manufacturing impeccable, and the rarity of this piece indisputable. But the price nevertheless takes on a certain form of indecency which, moreover, is far from being limited to luxury fashion.

Exotic leather has always been part of the offerings of luxury houses. But in recent years it has enjoyed particular success in mass distribution, available in printed or synthetic versions.

This is a good example to illustrate the impact that the work of certain houses can have on mainstream fashion. Zara and all her mass fashion friends do not create, but are inspired - or even copy - what can be done on the catwalks.

We are therefore going to look at the exotic leather “phenomenon” by trying to understand if it is really noble and why everyone wants it. Next, an overview of the big families. You will see, the croc and the python are far from being alone...

Understanding the craze for exotic leathers

A special beauty

Exotic skins owe much of their desirability to the fact that no two are truly identical: they may look similar but never be quite the same. The scales and textures are absolutely unique.

Certain pieces made from these skins can “provoke” something, at least when you are passionate . A very elegant old lady, who I thought was a client and who was in reality a consultant, had a very apt expression to define this indescribable sensation: "the emotion of beauty".

More than all other leathers, exotic leathers allow you to create magnificent pieces, with lots of character as long as you respect the material . Initially, desire and infatuation therefore start, in my opinion, from something very real, from a particular “magic”.

That being said, certain brands - whose aim is only to generate income by stuffing the consumer with soulless, mass-produced "products" - abuse these noble materials. Many have had to rethink their offer to face a reality for which they are solely responsible, but which could seriously threaten them: the “dream” deficit .

They may invest millions in marketing and advertising as toothpaste brands do, but many brands have pulled the string too hard with a false luxury that is only noble in the packaging.

A response to false luxury?

Some of the customers have ended up getting tired of plastic-coated canvas bags , logos and all these tasteless accessories sold for a fortune.

Only a part, because the incredible growth figures for luxury have been possible thanks to the capture of a new clientele, sometimes not at all wealthy, but in any case eager for social markers... and often not very "educated" in luxury , ready to buy anything and everything.

All eyes are then focused on pythons, crocodiles and other lizards: a noble material which can be sold much more expensive than a “simple” leather product . Razia! Brands are fighting to buy the farms and tanneries that will allow them to secure their supplies.

How to distinguish the main types of exotic leathers?

How do you tell real skin from fake?

Exotic faux leathers are often embossed calfskin, on which a pattern is heat printed using a type of mold. Consequently, some retain the grained appearance of the leather and the material remains "continuous" and uniform, the delineation of the scales not always being clear.

That said, enormous progress has been made in this area, so much so that it is no longer so easy - or sometimes almost impossible - to tell the difference between a real and a fake. I will still try to tell you more!

On the left, a very beautiful embossing job. The scales have a texture very close to the real ones, their delineation is very successful. However, look closely at the real crocodile on the right: we see that the texture is not so homogeneous, not as smooth, and that the folds formed are much less regular.

The most striking clue is the round scales: look how smooth and rounded they are on the left, while they are much more pronounced on the right on real skin.

Same principle for snake leathers. On the left, the scales seem much too frozen and do not come off the skin at all. Some brands like Cavalli know how to work the leather with a laser to allow this typical little “detachment”, but this case is rare. In the authentic image on the right, the scales are textured and, above all, we can clearly see that they overlap.

It is by being able to touch and see authentic leather that you will be even better able to grasp the nuances between a fake and a real one.

Crocodile skins: the most symbolic

The most emblematic of exotic skins is undoubtedly that of crocodile .

It is the subject of many fantasies, both a symbol of ultimate refinement and ostentatious bad taste. In any case, it leaves no one indifferent.

The term "crocodile", however, deserves some explanation: it in fact brings together many species and types of skin, which I will detail now.

Alligator is one of the finest skins and generally comes from farms in Florida or Texas. Once tanned, with very particular know-how, it can offer the most supple skin.

It has a body long enough to work from large yokes, which is very sought after.

Two clues will help you recognize it. The first is an umbilical scar: very small scales form a triangle which distinguishes this species from others... but it does not always appear!

The shape of the scales is also a differentiating element, that of alligators being particularly square and close together , which is considered aesthetically more interesting.

Generally speaking, the crocodile's scales differ from those of the alligator's by their shape: they are more oval, particularly on the exterior (the sides), and can also be less tight or less uniform. We will also notice the presence of a pore on the scales distinguishing them from the alligator...

The porosus is a marine crocodile which offers a quality very close to the alligator , particularly in terms of flexibility.

Nilauticus, more widespread and less expensive, will be used almost exclusively in leather goods , where its stiffer skin poses fewer problems.

The caiman comes last, considered to be of truly inferior quality to all the others . Coming from South America (Colombia most often), its smaller skin has a rather inelegant damaged appearance: the scales are dotted with fine little holes.

What are the most beautiful finishes on crocodiles?

I find that the matte finish is the most interesting : it enhances the pattern and the color, and has a very pleasant feel in my opinion.

That being said, I have seen pieces made from shiny crocodile, and I must say that it gives an even more precious side to the skin, almost like a jewel... but perhaps more suitable for women than for men.

Finally, in a separate case, there is the velvet crocodile . It's an extremely rare finish , before which - I admit - I lost the ability to speak for a few minutes. It was in London, in the historic Burberry store : a “velvet” alligator trench coat literally sat at the top of a staircase.

A real slap in the face, especially since no one really seemed to pay attention. Its velvet appearance could lead you to believe that it was just a print when in reality, the most perfect skins had been assembled with truly incredible precision.

In terms of quality, a beautiful crocodile skin is not necessarily recognized by the regularity of the scales - even if this contributes to the beauty of the material - but by its uniform texture .

“Blistered” scales that come off, or irregular cuts/seams, indicate poor control of the skin. A certain flexibility and finesse is also expected: thick, even pointed scales will indicate the use of the rigid and coarse skin of the back.

Snake skins, more uneven quality

Python is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful exotic skins . The scales are close to the shape of a diamond, often regular and stronger than the others.

The skin on its belly is the most prized, with relatively large overlapping scales in the center, then smaller towards the outside. Its large size allows it to be used in PAP, which is not the case with other snakes... unless you have seams everywhere to join the small panels.

However, you should know that the python is subject to special controls because it cannot be raised on farms: it must therefore be hunted. Many abuses have been committed, with brands turning a blind eye to traffic that suited them.

You should therefore never hesitate to ask for a certificate of authenticity and, above all, of origin of the skins : they are mandatory for import into France, so the seller must have them!

We then find numerous articles made from ayers, which is a water snake with characteristics close to those of the python , with a ventral scale larger than the others.

The elaphe, close to the ayers, has even smaller scales . It is in the size and shape of the latter that most of the distinction is made with the python, whose scales with almost geometric and regular shapes serve as a "reference".

Finally, if we exclude the species prohibited by the Washington Convention, there remains the karung , which we see much less than its cousins. Its very small scales as well as its skin with a rough and cardboard texture make it a second choice material, much less precious than the others .

As a general rule, a certain regularity in the shape of the scales indicates a qualitative raw material. Well-controlled tanning will leave the snakeskin relatively supple and soft.

Be careful with very dry leathers which "crack" (at the sound) and which have a cardboard feel... Finally, scales that are too loose or folded at the ends risk deteriorating with use.

Lizards, more discreet and affordable skins

Less common than the others, lizard leather also has scales. Rectangular, very small and tight, they are less visible than those of the crocodile or the snake, hence a certain discretion.

It is also a cheaper material, although it is really difficult to work with : only the skin of the body is used, which reduces the surface area and reserves lizard leather for small leather goods (wallets, card holders. ..). Well tanned and colored, it can be magnificent.

In terms of finishes, I would say that a patent/shiny look will really highlight this underestimated leather. A good quality leather will have a bright color and a homogeneous texture.

We use certain species of monitor lizards (Malaysia), Teju and sometimes iguanas to make this leather which will be very resistant, in addition to being inexpensive. Perhaps a good compromise for those looking to acquire a different leather to keep for a very long time.

Ostrich, a coarse leather but with character

This is to my knowledge the only bird whose noble skin finds its place in this article.

Certainly, it is neither fine, nor soft, nor silky, on the contrary. In sight, it resembles chicken skin, dotted here and there with small blisters marking the location of the feathers . The grain is thick, rough and irregular.

However - but I'll let you judge - it's a very beautiful leather, with character, which becomes absolutely superb when dyed camel. Be careful though that the skin is not too “withered”!

It is rarely found in men's fashion, although it occasionally appears on a few wallets. Some designers use ostrich leg leather to create shoes or apply it to bags, but I find that the effect is much less successful... Please note, however, that it is done.

Fish, diverse skins with a rich appearance

Yes, artisanal know-how even makes it possible to work with fish leather!

First, stingray . It is not the name of a particular species, but it designates all leathers from cartilaginous species (rays, flying foxes, etc.), with very particular scales.

As a result, these skins are very difficult to work with, but whose texture is absolutely unique and extremely robust . Certain leathers, the most beautiful, will present imperfections which are considered to be a guarantee of exception: certain scales, even thicker than the others, will take the form of "pearls".

Shagreen is mainly used in leather goods , given its thickness and the difficulty in working it. It has almost disappeared from leather goods workshops but remains extremely valuable.

At the rate things are going, it is quite possible that it will become the next essential for luxury brands, who will have to find an alternative when crocodiles and pythons have tired of customers...

The eel produces extremely fine and textured leather , the skin of the belly marks a continuous line of small folds. It is often shiny, which helps to highlight the contrast between the folds and the smooth appearance of the rest of the skin.

Fairly inexpensive, eel leather is not that widespread and appears from time to time in the collections of luxury houses.

It really is a skin which - to my astonishment - ages very well and develops a patina. Wallet-type accessories, on the other hand, will suffer from too much friction, which is a bit restrictive... That being said, while scratches can be scary at first, they ultimately give character to this authentic leather!

Finally, to finish with fish, know that trout and salmon are starting to be of great interest to leather goods artisans/professionals .

Obviously very inexpensive compared to other exotic leathers, they nevertheless retain this fairly unique character, because no scale is really similar to another.

Some partnerships have made it possible to use salmon skin to make sneakers, for example: I don't have any feedback on this, but the initiative seems really interesting to me and deserves to be seen!

How is exotic leather used in men's fashion?

The easiest: leather goods

In the collective imagination, exotic leathers often conjure up a fairly feminine image: this is not the case in reality.

For several years now, with the rapid evolution of men's fashion, the demand for precious and rare items has increased in this sector.

The “primary” use of exotic leather, the one that everyone can easily incorporate into their style, is in leather goods . A wallet, a belt or even a simple small card holder will immediately take on a different look if they are made with crocodile, lizard or ostrich.

More daring: shoes and sneakers

These are elements of your outfit that are visible, and depending on the finish and the leather chosen, which will attract the eye more... But you shouldn't hesitate to have fun with them though.

Passing by a boutique while traveling, I came across a pair of authentic patent snakeskin Oxfords. The monstrous discount (last piece) that was made on it made my mind, and I must say that I don't regret it: with a sober suit, it brings a really nice "red carpet" feel.

But you can also opt for “simple” inserts, which will add character while maintaining a certain sobriety.

The sharpest: directly on the clothes

Finally, exotic leathers also have their place in ready-to-wear... But generally on very specialized pieces, and at prices that are beyond belief. The slightest little croc insert can cause the price to skyrocket because the “perceived value” is supposed to grow too.

Roberto Cavalli has always been a fan of reptilian skin in his collections and has made it a trademark. If the use of exotic leathers in ready-to-wear is often worth a look, it stops there...

What about ethics in all of that ?

Of course, like many coveted things, exotic skins have a “side” of the coin. As Helen Crowley, specialist on the subject at Kering (Gucci, YSL, etc.), points out, there are many abuses:

Nearly 500,000 skins are exported each year from Southeast Asia, with a total value estimated at several million dollars. Worryingly, illicit trade represents an equivalent amount [...]. Consumption clearly exceeds the capacity to supervise and regulate the sector.

Exponential demand becomes the breeding ground for a parallel, dangerous market, without any ethical consideration, which has very probably infiltrated the sourcing of certain luxury houses.

The European Union and sometimes market players, independently, began to react by, for example, carrying out random visits and analyzes on imported skins. The goal is to ensure that they come from farms and have not been illegally hunted.

Certain associations such as PETA have also highlighted the unacceptable breeding conditions of crocodiles in particular , parked in pools too small for them, without the possibility of getting out and sometimes even moving.

Concerning slaughter, there is talk of scissors, cutting up reptiles that are not yet dead and other intolerable treatments. If, as with all very beautiful leathers, certain farms raise animals in an "ethical" way, once again the bulimia of certain luxury brands is to the detriment of EVERYTHING else.

Originally, exotic skins received special "treatment", being entrusted only to the most experienced artisans . Today we have to put it everywhere, and distribute it en masse in stores around the world to satisfy customers.

Gone is the exception, gone is this immaterial “magic” that is barely perceptible, but which made all the difference.

To synthesize, we must therefore remember that yes, the skins of crocodile, python, ostrich & co. are absolutely exceptional and of a nobility that can be felt.

However, by wanting to put it everywhere to surf on the - well-founded - desirability of this material, certain brands trivialize and damage its exceptional and rare character, in addition to turning a blind eye to sometimes intolerable breeding conditions.

There is no need to buy or own any to marvel at such beautiful leathers . And I hope that this article has allowed you to see things more clearly, or even to learn a few things...

Cheers gentlemen :).