What can we remember about overalls in cinema except that they have spanned all eras and worn some of the greatest actors? You will discover it in this new Reel: Michel Simon, James Dean, Jean Gabin or Al Pacino have put together exciting outfits.
But what is even more striking about overalls is its universality and its ability to suit all styles. From workwear to the most formal, from arthouse films to horror films: here are some stories and inspirations dedicated to one of the most simple and intriguing garments in the men's wardrobe.
1. The old man, the overalls and the sea
“ L’Atalante ” (Jean Vigo, 1934)
It all starts with a comment received during the previous episode :
“And if with a Bobine you could support me in integrating overalls into the Overton window of men's fashion, that would suit me! Because I would love to try, but I don’t dare enough yet”
Coincidentally, I found some Japan Blue overalls not so long ago for a handful of euros. Beautiful, inspiring piece. Not for me, though. It was like offering. But this experience pushed me to go a little further and look at how it could be brought to the cinema.
So let's start with a little history. Long before being popularized by American denim brands like Levi's , overalls appeared in France at the end of the 19th century - the name itself comes from slang.
In its primitive form, it is work clothing that has little to do with style. For the record, the house that designed them at that time still exists today under the guise of the Lafont brand. But for overalls today, you can also look at Carhartt , Tonton & Fils , Nigel Cabourn or even the brand suggested here.
(Photo by Jacques PRAYER/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
In the cinema, we of course found overalls before the era of talkies. For example in the wheat fields of “The Intruder” by FW Murnau in 1930. But since overalls are our odyssey of the day, what would you say instead of taking off a bit?
On a barge, newlyweds and an old sea dog learn to live together. “L’Atalante” is a little more than a film, it’s a shooting star. Look for example at how François Truffaut talks about it.
If the trailer only gives very few clues, you can already see a few sailors' jackets and caps here and there. Jean Vigo's only feature film is without equal, and it was never really completely finished either. Its history is strewn with pitfalls, cuts and bans. The editing itself takes place while the filmmaker is bedridden and seriously ill
But seeing him again today, it's difficult not to be carried away once again by his poetry and his astonishing modernity. We can see it as a sort of praise of flight. You can also discover colorful characters, dressed in mesh and overalls on a barge called the Atalante.
Oh of course, water has flowed under the bridges since 1934 and not many people really wear clogs like Michel Simon's endearing character. On the other hand, we always wear overalls and a white t-shirt . Also high-neck or turtleneck sweaters, knitted jackets and sailor tops.
That's the general idea: functional outfits, dark or light overalls, mixed here and there with maritime legends. Suffice to say that the garment has wrinkles, experience and adventure in it. It is also very likely patched on all sides .
But none of this comes across as totally dated. “L’Atalante” has something contemporary in mind. Fashion cycles , remember. Not to mention the current appeal for vintage.
If “L'Atalante” never goes much further than the port of Le Havre, it carries with it its share of souvenirs and odds and ends collected during its travels. Men and clothes wear out at work and in bistros – this is how Michel Simon likes to tell his stories, from one port to another.
For a more advanced style around overalls, we'll come back to that a little later. In the meantime, to wear it without fuss, like on the deck of the Atalante, you will probably have to go back to stripes and sailor sweaters . It's clearly a rustic and ageless look - a first clue, with or without the tattoos of the old man played by Michel Simon, who shares with Ernest Hemingway the same passion for cats.
Beyond its outfits and its staging, you will find more simply in “L'Atalante” a film that feels good and that has a lot to do with the beautiful generosity of Michel Simon on screen
2. The ideal overalls
“ Modern Times ” (Charles Chaplin, 1936)
Ah, “Modern Times”! It's impossible to ignore this 1936 film directed by Charles Chaplin: it contains one of the most famous overalls in cinema , and it's not the only discovery in this new and final adventure of Charlot.
While cinema is now talking, Charles Chaplin is resisting: he plays with sound effects, sound, music but still refuses to allow his characters to fully interact. No matter, silent cinema is always full of inventiveness and Chaplin creates a film that is both a witness and a visionary about man and the mechanization of the world.
Well, admit that it's still a little disturbing: in certain places, "Les Temps Modernes" is still very much in tune with our times, as if to remind us that we perhaps don't quite have changed world. Despite the darkness of the setting
(Original Caption) @Getty Images
We must see the effect of love of course, more generally of great humanity or even, who knows, of style and clothing. When Chaplin's character dreams with his eyes wide open of his ideal, there is certainly a roof over his head, something to live and eat, and a young woman played by Paulette Goddard with whom to share his daily life.
But there is also an outfit associated with this vision of happiness: overalls, a white t-shirt, a bandana around the neck, a hat and a jacket that could nowadays be substituted for an elegant but casual blazer. Try it a bit to see: if it works for Chaplin, it must be universal.
Just like that of Henri Fonda in “ Stronghold .” For the record, we have to go back to 1916 for the brand's first encounter with the world of Chaplin.
In “Les Temps Modernes”, he wears overalls most often with a t-shirt or a shirt – simplicity, always. And if we refer to the Stronghold website, these overalls have now entered the museum: a beautiful testimony to the importance of clothing in cinema.
Of course, we could always argue that his shoes are in poor condition , that elsewhere his pants are definitely too large at the waist or even that the frock coat is really not that anymore. It is not false. But there are other reasons for wonder here and there.
Because even when he's broke or in prison, his character still retains style. For example, take a look at the denim outfit he wears behind bars – ah the grain of the canvas, and the cut of the jacket!
If you ever decide to watch Chaplin's cinema again, keep your eyes peeled, don't just stop at the overalls, and of course as Benoit would say: open your heart.
3. Overalls and their other lives
“ Sergeant York ” (Howard Hawks, 1941)
It's true, due to its history, overalls are commonly associated with all types of manual work. It is a practical, solid piece of clothing that is not afraid of dirt or various items in your pockets – ruler, screwdriver, notebook, pencils, etc. You can basically do anything with it, and even try to add a hint of dressiness to it. It is a garment that has several lives.
Before getting there, let us first note that it is not uncommon to come across overalls on construction sites or even among Sunday handymen. You may also be thinking of Super Mario or Michel Blanc from “Come to my house, I'm staying with a friend”?
We could also mention his presence in the American cinema campaigns of the 1940s: Henri Fonda in “The Grapes of Wrath”, a reference, but also Gary Cooper in Howard Hawks’ “Sergeant York” the following year.
For those who don't know Gary Cooper: take a look at “ Morocco ” by Josef von Sternberg or his films with Frank Capra and Ernst Lubitsch. Also note, to tempt you, that he was one of the best dressed actors of his time.
More anecdotally: it is also a great source of inspiration for a famous series character, who likes polo shirts, shirts and moccasins : Tony Soprano. But I'm rambling .
(Photo by Silver Screen Collection/Getty Images)
In “Sergeant York”, Gary Cooper plays a country boy more inclined to alcohol than to working in the fields. The story takes place in 1917, shortly before America entered the war.
In the meantime, his character, who until then had been living with his family in a remote corner of Tennessee, quickly put away the bottles to devote himself to God. He would later leave for service under the label of “conscientious objector” and return both a sergeant and a national hero. This is America !
The film was a success and allowed the actor to win an Oscar. Certainly, this is neither the most biting nor the best Howard Hawks. But there is still something to see in the character's journey, Gary Cooper's acting and also in his clothes: denim overalls, Gingham type shirt, hat, boots .
He sometimes wears it with an austere blazer, which in a way transforms the work outfit : sometimes more dressy for church, sometimes more stylized for after dark - in the latter case he just needs to adjust the collar of the shirt like what Michel or Nicolò can do here .
Well, this is just a detail, but let's note that he shares with Monsieur Hulot from Mon Oncle the same taste for striped socks and that he also wears military clothing particularly well.
This is another example of how overalls can be diverted from their original function . But as you will see, it will not be the last. Take a seat in the Delorean and wind your watches: we're heading back to France and the mid-50s.
4. Overalls, checks and raincoat
“ Gas Oil ” (Gilles Grangier, 1955)
Remember, Sean Connery tried it with “Train d'Enfer” in 1957: the character of a truck driver, social realism, life on the roads. None of this is foreign to Jean Gabin: it was already more or less the subject of “Gas Oil”, a film by Gilles Grangier made two years before and in which Jean Gabin plays the main role.
You will find a certain number of films about drivers at the cinema. Life on the road is fascinating and we will return to it several times in this Reel. If, however, you were in a hurry, to go as simple as possible with the overalls , just take a look at “ One Hundred Thousand Dollars in the Sun ” by Henri Verneuil in 1964.
Everything is there, in a minimalist spirit: Bernard Blier goes with his little look based on overalls and a white t-shirt and it's almost worth its weight in peanuts. That being said, I invite you to stay: Jean Gabin's outfit in “Gas Oil” has much more to offer.
What is it about ? About an entrepreneur who tries as best he can to pay for his brand new truck, a story of theft that goes wrong and a misunderstanding between a mafia gang led by a Roger Hanin in a suit and our honest man in workwear mode.
The dialogues are by Michel Audiard, the scenario is not crazy, but Jean Gabin shares the bill with Jeanne Moreau and the little scenes of daily life are always worth the detour.
For Gabin, everyone has their own preferences. For my part, for example, his patriarchal roles most often embarrass me but I have boundless admiration for his pre-war roles, in particular in Jean Renoir: look at the style of “ Bas-Fonds ”, of “ La Bête Humaine ” or even more so “ La Grande Illusion ” – his finest style in cinema ?!
Photo by QUINIO/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
In “Gas-Oil”, we discover a less anxious character, in cushy mode. He has the strength and quiet style, and copes with certain immutable rituals: the ultra-early awakening, the charentaises, the heating then the dressing .
Here it's dark colored overalls over a checked shirt, combined with boots or very rustic shoes . It's once again a work outfit, but don't worry there's starting to be something new on this side of the men's wardrobe.
If you ever thought overalls and raincoats were incompatible, Jean Gabin will prove you wrong. But this is not the only one of his stylistic discoveries. For example, had you already imagined the actor in sneakers?
Here you will see what it looks like: shirt, pants with nice volumes and a pair of sneakers that could easily be combined with Converse . But to tell the truth, if Jean Gabin teaches us, among other things, how to wear overalls with a check shirt and raincoat , nothing beats real life regarding him.
Take, for example, this photograph available on the Patrimoine Normand magazine website. This is one of my favorite outfits with overalls – and like with Gary Cooper or Charles Chaplin, you have here a great example of a revisited work outfit , here with a blazer that we imagine with texture and character .
5. Overalls and shirt
“ East of Eden ” (Elia Kazan, 1955)
Meanwhile, on the other side of the Atlantic, American youth discover a new idol. His name is James Dean and he literally bursts onto the screen in “East of Eden”. Behind the camera, filmmaker Elia Kazan once again orchestrates the legend.
You know: just like Steve McQueen, James Dean is an inexhaustible source of inspiration for men's fashion . Years before Brad Pitt, we can even venture to say that he was one of the first to make overalls sexy .
As for Elia Kazan, note that we owe him, among other things , the images of “ A Streetcar Named Desire ”, Marlon Brando and his iconic t-shirt . But also other films less celebrated but just as interesting for clothing such as “ Fever in the Blood ” or “ The Last Nabob ”.
We can finally point out that he was the husband of Barbara Loden, whose only film “ Wanda ” is in a sense almost more important than all of his work. What ? A change of outlook is as fascinating as the road or the clothes. Take a look, if you can.
(Photo by Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images)
Obviously “East of Eden” can seem quite conservative, artificial and quaint in comparison. And if we refer to James Dean's meteoric journey alone, we can even prefer the modernity and style of “ The Fury of Living ” . Not sure ?
The story here takes place in 1917 California. It's about a broken family, an absent mother, an unloving father, biblical references and a James Dean who is ultimately lost and rebellious. It's all in Technicolor and Cinemascope and of course there's something very beautiful, comforting and a little nostalgic about it.
What is not, however, are James Dean's outfits: you will find there a little air of yesterday and today. For example, take a look at shirt collars, belts and pants volumes .
A quick aside: if you still don't believe in the attractiveness of the V-neck sweater, "East of Eden" will perhaps immediately reconcile you with this much-maligned piece. Cream pants, white shirt, beige V-neck sweater and white sneakers , it's one of the timeless looks of the film.
In another genre, to try to convince you about the V, the yellow and also to slip in a little nod to Coluche, one of the most fervent (supporters) of overalls in France :
(Photo by Jacques PRAYER/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
In the United States, she found her first great ambassador of charm in James Dean. It's made of denim, and he wears it with a shirt and sleeves rolled up above the elbow. In fact, it's rolled up so well that it's maybe even a shirt.
He actually wears one in the film, with a suit. This is his outfit for going out, overalls being once again reserved for work. What changes here is that overalls are no longer just work clothing: they are now a tool of seduction .
6. Panache & overalls
“ Serpico ” (Sidney Lumet, 1973)
Do you believe in chance when it comes to style in cinema? Before you decide, know that “East of Eden” and “Serpico” have at least one thing in common: their costume designer, Anna Hill Johnstone, also worked on “ The Godfather ” by Francis Ford Coppola.
In Bobine, we have already focused on the work of filmmaker Sidney Lumet through Sean Connery 's outfits and if Anna Hill Johnstone did not work on these films in particular, she is a regular collaborator of the filmmaker.
With “Serpico”, we move to the next level, so to speak. There are films from which we retain both a certain cinematographic interest and one or two key outfits. Much rarer are those who combine all of these criteria with the added stylistic richness of every moment .
By discovering Al Pacino in this role of honest policeman and alone against a system rotten to the core, you will quickly stop counting: “Serpico” is a festival, and you will certainly think of all kinds of contemporary brands when observing his wardrobe .
Of course, we could always argue that Sidney Lumet presents here a world that is completely disgusting and corrupt and that it is not kind to anyone. Certainly, and all this is even reinforced by a quasi-documentary approach to the city of New York and its times – the film is shot in the early 70s.
(Photo by Paramount Pictures/Getty Images)
But “Serpico” is also a huge source of sartorial inspiration. Take a look at Al Pacino's outfits. He is a man in the midst of physical and stylistic change . It has something of military workwear à la Engineered Garments . He also has something vaguely hippie in the patterns and volumes, not to mention the Christ-like dimension that goes with his face and the tunics that accompany it.
Note that here he wears sandals at the office, sometimes even with white socks . If the idea of coming to work even if only jogging or wearing sneakers embarrasses you, do not hesitate to draw on the courage and tenacity of Al Pacino in “Serpico”.
Some would say that he is an expert in the art of breaking the rules . Others that he is just himself. What is certain is that his character would have his place inPanache .
So we might as well warn you: if you've never taken a look at this classic of American cinema from the 70s, you're going to be seriously envious of clothes. From the bucket hat to the pea coat and the chambray shirt , the list of things to see here is certainly too long to cite in full.
On the other hand, we can admire his approach to overalls. You have felt it coming since earlier: it is here as if stripped of its primary function. We can therefore finally find it cool, give it style, scale and a bit of assumed laziness while associating it with other universes .
Here, for example, Al Pacino opts for the popover shirt, the striped overalls and the work jacket that we suspect is from Lee . Add a cap and some stylish accessories and it's suddenly a day of celebration.
We could also stop there. Except that you will see it in the next film: the overalls never cease to surprise us.
7. Overalls and Perfecto
“ Over time ” (Wim Wenders, 1976)
The inspiration that follows is not really obvious. By Wim Wenders, you may know “ Paris, Texas ” with Nastassja Kinski and Harry Dean Stanton, or even “ Wings of Desire ” with Bruno Ganz and Peter Falk. He began touring in the 1970s and among his many obsessions were rock, cinema and American culture.
We know less: he also filmed a documentary entitled “ Notebooks on Clothes and Cities ” around fashion and the designer Yohji Yamamoto at the end of the 80s. His name may not be all that familiar to you. completely foreign, if only because Nicolò has already been able to tell you his personal story with one of his clothes.
Here too we are talking about a jacket, and it probably has several hundred kilometers on the clock. If you ever own a Perfecto -type leather jacket or jacket , it is quite possible that you will find in “Au Fil du Temps” by Wim Wenders a new way to wear them: with overalls, that is. Have you never thought about it?
As we know, Perfecto is often associated with rock and the filmmaker's links with this music have been known for a long time. Look for example at U2 or Nick Cave. His first films are also full of records and nods to rock.
Image courtesy Ronald Grant Archive / Mary Evans
“Au fil du Temps” is no exception to the rule. Among other things, we find nuggets of this kind there. And also, above all, an indescribable feeling of solitude and freedom. The road fascinates, remember.
This is precisely the whole story of the film: two men travel in a truck through the German countryside and its more or less abandoned cinemas. You may feel like you're visiting a country in ruins – there are bunkers left fallow by the US army here.
Or to have, like the main character, the opportunity to reflect on your own journey. “For the first time, I see myself as someone who has lived a certain time, and this time is my story. It is comforting. » Associate the time in question with your path to style, and you will hopefully see life differently.
For Wim Wenders, it is the last movement in a beautiful trilogy dedicated to wandering. We come across the ghosts of Nicholas Ray and Fritz Lang, and also an atmosphere inspired by the photographic work of Walker Evans.
In the center, the character of Rüdiger Vogler, who we initially discover almost naked under his striped Lee overalls . This way of wearing it will come into focus a little later, don't worry.
In the meantime, I'll let you admire the natural style and king-size mustaches of our character, who gets dressed as the film progresses.
If, however, this daring style leaves you unmoved, you will find other reasons for satisfaction in its companion: more classic, with wool pants, striped shirt and light blazer , probably in linen. While waiting for the next film, I'll let you meditate now on this post from Jordan. You will need it as you approach number 11.
8. Rugby overalls and polo shirts
“ The Night Warriors ” (Walter Hill, 1979)
Are there any “ Double Dragon ” fans among you? If so, “The Night Warriors” should have a bit of a family resemblance. If not, don't panic: from Marylin Manson to Dennis Hopper, Walter Hill's film has inspired well beyond video games and you should find your way there in one way or another.
For the record, this adventure from the late 70s shares the same director of photography as the first Rambo
A simple reason: it is the clothing that acts as an identity card . The story takes place in New York and features several city gangs who clash until the end of the night.
Among them: the Warriors, whom the whole city is looking for for a crime they did not commit. Each gang has its own style of clothing and imagine that this is even how we recognize them.
Copyright: imago/United Archives
We can therefore consider “Warriors of the Night” as an open-air fashion show. The environment is decidedly nocturnal and urban, dotted with graffiti, broken streets, metro stations, parks and even a cemetery.
All this is interspersed with comic strips and music like that . Brief. Are you there? Clench your fists and put on your Converse . They're called the Baseball Furies, the Orphans, the Lizzies or the Gramercy Riffs and they're clearly not here to laugh.
A nightmare ? The film sometimes looks like a zombie film. We also discover a very strange gang that would be all the rage in “ The Texas Chainsaw Massacre ” or in a film from the “ Chucky ” series, another famous character wearing overalls .
Denim overalls are this gang's thing and they have their own way of making them their own. Some may remember Jordan's obsession with rugby polo shirts ? It's as if it was granted in one sequence, in a mixture of denim, Drake's spirit, roller skates and street fighting. If you understood Bastong , note that it can probably work too.
In any case, we are a long way from beige chinos and white sneakers , but we must admit that it is an interesting combination, to keep in the back of your mind if you ever have to dry off one morning in front of your dressing room.
We haven't talked about it, but of course the Warriors also have their distinctive sign: it's a sleeveless leather vest , emblazoned with the gang name on the back. For other teams, it will be the shirt, denim jacket , leather jacket, baseball uniforms or hats .
There are as many gangs in town as there are types of clothing, and all these looks can also, why not, give you some ideas. The following ? It's nothing more and nothing less than my favorite inspiration for this selection.
9. Overalls and velvet
“ The Shining ” (Stanley Kubrick, 1980)
At this point, you might be wondering if I was convinced by the overalls myself. Well not yet, I admit, but I already have my own idea on the matter.
In fact, it's even quite precise. For the material, it would most certainly be velvet . And for the color: something like here , at Samuraï Jeans . In reality, these overalls would do the job very well and I can already see what I could wear them with. Intrigued?
I may surprise you, but my primary influence would be the character of Shelley Duvall in “The Shining” by Stanley Kubrick. As a reminder, we were able to evoke the film in Bobine through the turtleneck sweater .
Copyright: imago/EntertainmentPictures
You know the story. And you probably no longer have any desire to become a hotel caretaker out of season, lost in the middle of the mountains and on a cursed site. On the other hand, Shelley Duvall's outfit may have already made you want it, whatever your gender.
You know: overalls have no boundaries . Women also adopted it very early in the cinema, and in France alone, you will find it in many actresses, from Brigitte Bardot to Béatrice Dalle, from Sophie Marceau to Bernadette Lafont.
But to be honest, none of the outfits in question provide the same thrill as Shelley Duvall's in “Shining”: it even has something a little magical in my opinion. But that, as you can imagine, cannot really be explained.
On the other hand, we can note that it is remarkable in its construction, its choice of material and color: a beige turtleneck knit, a beautiful green checked shirt and overalls that we can guess are made of brown velvet.
Let's imagine a pair of workwear boots to conclude and we have a fantastic outfit in every sense of the word for winter . Note in passing that if Jack Nicholson does not wear overalls in “The Shining”, he has already worn them in real life.
A very successful example here, in white overalls and a shirt , which will perhaps make you want to go even further than white jeans :
(Photo by Pictorial Parade/Getty Images)
Not quite convinced yet? Luckily, there are still a few proposals in stock, some more surprising than others, and for all seasons. I'll let you catch your breath: you're going to need it.
10. Overalls & house phone
“ ET the Extra-Terrestrial ” (Steven Spielberg, 1982)
If overalls find their source in the world of work and adults, it is difficult not to evoke their presence in the world of childhood, dreams and style under construction .
If you look carefully, you might even come across a childhood memory. Look for example among the photos from your early years: it is not impossible that you will discover a pair of overalls here or there.
From work to childhood, we could probably write a thesis on this strange landslide of overalls into our locker rooms. In the meantime, in the 80s for example, girls and boys alike wore it regularly: this garment is everywhere and very often in denim . But they exist in many other subjects.
It's no surprise that overalls also feature in Steven Spielberg's films. Childhood is a recurring theme for the filmmaker, and “ET the Extraterrestrial” is one of his most popular and personal films on the subject.
Child looking at men with flashlights in a scene from the film 'ET The Extra-Terrestrial', 1982. (Photo by Universal/Getty Images)
AND? In case you missed it, he's short, alien, and primarily a botanist. His comrades having left without him in the middle of the night, he is now alone in the forest, hunted by strange men who only see their flashlights and key rings.
He then meets Eliott, a young, somewhat dreamy boy who lives with his mother, his big brother and his little sister in the suburbs of Los Angeles. Generally speaking, Steven Spielberg's film strives to deliver winks and messages on tolerance, friendship and of course cinema and pop culture.
But today we can also see it as witness to a culture that is ultra-indulgent in sodas, candies, burgers, polyester and industrial products of all kinds. Like ET, go into the closet and take a look at the contents of the fridge or the television: you might have a little idea of the human species in 1982.
Among the first questions asked to ET, we note in any case that the garment arrives in a good position . This shows that it's important and it's understandable all the more since ET doesn't wear anything with him: his first steps in fashion will be summed up with a checked shirt, some very soft knitwear and a little attempt failed woman's outfit.
On the other hand, children (and boys in particular) demonstrate a style that still continues today well beyond the United States: bleach jeans, white sneakers, gray or colored hoodies .
The overalls are not left out. We find it on the little sister played by Drew Barrymore and associated with a striped sweatshirt , but also on Henri Thomas here in the role of Eliott: a white textured sweatshirt with long sleeves, denim overalls, and visibly a pair of Nikes which closely resembles those of the future Marty McFly .
If all this has a little taste of Proust's madeleine , it's normal: overalls are no longer just work clothing. Over the years and uses, it has invested in more personal fields, which can sometimes go back to childhood.
PS: note that this is the time to remember Jordan's post mentioned a little before. Watch your eyes: here we go!
11. Overalls or nothing
“ Never Never Again ” (Irvin Kershner, 1983)
https://www.imago-images.com/st/0094741775
You may remember Nicolò's article on knitting next to the skin ? Well, for all practical purposes, know that you can absolutely do the same with overalls. It's an idea like that, for sunny days.
This is at least one of the two or three tracks to remember from this unofficial comeback of Sean Connery to Her Majesty's Secret Service. Let's be honest: we could have completely done without it, but we must still recognize that the film poses two or three interesting questions of style , if not at the level of the 007 productions of the 60s.
In 1983, the James Bond franchise had been officially run by Roger Moore for 10 years. In these conditions, “Never Again” appears as a strange parallel adventure.
Copyright: Mary Evans AF Archive Mgm Ua Home
He's a James Bond without much panache and willingly disjointed. Worse, the costumes are dull and, frankly, a little cheap . In the casting, Sean Connery, Kim Basinger and Max Von Sydow struggle to forget the absence of the usual punch, music and gold of the series.
However, there are still a few reasons here and there not to sink. Firstly because “Never Again” contains a fascinating idea although unfortunately quickly aborted: that of an aging, nerdy James Bond, who we would have loved to see approach retirement and perhaps dress differently .
This is also where Jordan's post comes into play. What could a stylistic challenge to a grizzled James Bond as played by Sean Connery look like?
It won't be much: at most a stay in fitness, a little sport and relaxation. This is also where we find the first surprising outfit of the film: who can go jogging in a gray tracksuit and an ecru turtleneck if not James Bond?
The second question of style lies in an idea as simple as it is brilliant: Sean Connery, denim overalls and nothing else except a subtly rolled up lower leg – fresh, cool, with visible torso on the torso, like if it was every day on vacation.
Good spirit ? Not sure it's so simple for the most shy or self-conscious among us. And that also raises other types of questions, this one for example. However, for the house, the garden, the beach or more generally sheltered from crowds, it is a path to dig.
Beyond the pleasant surprise of the overalls , remember the essential: with “Never again”, we discover, a little astonished, that the James Bond played by Sean Connery is not a style monster.
It's a human being like you and me, who can make mistakes on a color combination, a choice of cut or material . And that, all the same, admit that it’s reassuring.
12. Overalls and Irish knits
“ Enemies Close In ” (Alan J. Pakula, 1997)
As the character of Indiana Jones celebrates his 40th birthday, a little thought for Harrison Ford. As a reminder: Benoit has already mentioned his style at Spielberg and his famous pair of Alden here , and we had also already looked at the parka from “Star Wars” or the trench coat from “Blade Runner”.
In “Enemies Close In”, he shares the poster with Brad Pitt and if it is very far from being their happiest, united and inspired film, we nevertheless find a new way of understanding overalls. If we are to believe the stories circulating around the relationship between the two men on set, it's already not so bad.
“It’s not an American story, it’s an Irish ballad.” It's an image used for plot purposes, but make no mistake: "Enemies Close In" is a very American enterprise. It is also Alan J. Pakula's last production.
Copyright: Mary Evans AF Archive Columbia
For something with a little more cinema and Ireland in it, take a look at " The Wind Rises " by Ken Loach: it's more interesting from a stylistic point of view too, and you'll find among other things Cillian Murphy, a few years before he took part in the television adventure “Peaky Blinders”.
In the meantime, let's come back to our story: Brad Pitt is here a member of the Provisional IRA. He arrives in the United States for a dark missile story, the police are tracking him from his country of origin and his cover is none other than the model family of the police officer played by Harrison Ford.
Far-fetched, right? If you don't believe it either, rest assured: it's not very important.
The film starts in any case quite precisely in Ireland and everything is there: the moor, its wild coasts and its sailors, the characteristic accent of the inhabitants
For a bit, you could almost hear the glasses clinking to the sound of “ Sally McLennane ” by the Pogues. But in reality, you'll be more likely to come across lazy music by James Horner or Dolores O'Riordan.
Closer to our concerns: the famous Irish stitches . And there, we can say that something is happening. Perhaps not Inis Meáin , but still: it is in a way the culmination of the style developed here.
Round neck, turtleneck or shawl collar sweaters : Brad Pitt seems to have taken a whole collection of knitwear on his journey, as if it were the most precious thing in his world .
It's almost surprising. But we also find a good brown leather jacket combined with a light gray hoodie, a pair of boots and dark pants – classic, effective, nothing to report.
However, things get livelier as you approach the port. Because you see, Brad Pitt intends to return home with a fishing boat and he takes care of the repairs himself. This is where her overalls outfit comes in.
Gone are the early 90s and the era of overalls or nothing: he now wears a solid knit with loose beige construction-type overalls , full of grease. And also a hat, to keep both the hair and the cold out.
Apparently, here we have another idea for rain and fall/winter, and in a slightly similar and a little more disturbing style, you can watch Robert Pattinson in “ The Lighthouse ” by Robert Eggers.
But maybe you want to move on to something else: more life and sunshine for example? Go to the next movie.
13. Overalls, cartoons and traditions
“ O’Brother ” (Joel & Ethan Coen, 2000)
https://www.imago-images.com/st/0102422154
We crossed paths with the Coen brothers several times in Bobine, notably through the turtleneck sweater or the shirt . At the very beginning of the 2000s, the two men had already produced some of their best moments in cinema and over time, we became accustomed to their style.
Routine ? Certainly, “O’Brother” isn’t much of a surprise. It tells the adventures of three escaped prisoners and contains almost everything we love about the Coen brothers: a particular sense of humor and dialogue, nods to cinema, cartoons and Kafkaesque situations.
The story takes place in the South of the United States. Blazing sun, local accents and a decidedly rural style. It’s a glimpse of a certain deep America, with its clichés and revisited legends. It's about the Great Depression, country music and the Ku Klux Klan. So much for the setting of a scenario freely inspired by Homer's Odyssey . But after all, to each his own Ulysses.
That of the Coen brothers is none other than George Clooney and if you have in mind the beautiful costumes and the masculine ideal , you may well be surprised: there is nothing more earthy than the characters of “O” Brother”.
Credit: Image courtesy Ronald Grant Archive / Mary Evans
George Clooney's overalls are a great way to celebrate the year 2000. They're also the most noticed (and sought-after) piece in the "O Brother" wardrobe , but if you really want to know who is the best-dressed character in the film, so take a look at Chris Thomas King - he's the guitarist, the one who works wonders around the fire.
Also in the cast: stalwarts John Goodman and John Turturro. Note that the latter is also a regular at Spike Lee's cinema, where you can also find denim overalls.
For example, take a look at the Clockers outfits or, in another genre, those from the most successful “ Jungle Fever ”. If you pay attention, you will discover in this film a very nice way to wear denim overalls at Samuel L. Jackson, with cap, khaki sweatshirt and military-inspired parka.
In “O’Brother,” overalls are worn in a more traditional way. The clothes are threadbare, the shoes loaded with mud and dust, the shirts dirty and not ironed .
But let's remember that our three Daltons are on the run - no time to go shopping or consider a trip to the local dry cleaners. The little stylistic detail: our characters love suspenders .
George Clooney, on the other hand, is something else: he particularly likes fishnet stockings (for his hair) and… denim overalls, worn here with a simple shirt and shoes .
It's a very raw look. A return to the earth and simplicity? The denim of his overalls may be well faded, but George Clooney's outfit here echoes that of Henri Fonda in “ The Grapes of Wrath ”. However, the loop is still far from being completed.
14. Overalls and cardigan
“ Manderlay ” (Lars Von Trier, 2005)
No, we didn't really move, just changed film and perspective. We're still in the South of the United States and the calendar still shows something like the 1930s. At least that's what Lars Von Trier's “Manderlay” tries to make us believe.
As in its predecessor “Dogville”, we discover here a studio set with characters inside and chalk on the ground. There is theater and cinema at play, audacity in the form and something that always questions. The filmmaker never leaves one indifferent, and if we only refer to “Antichrist” or “The Idiots”, neither do his films.
Is there also something to do with clothing ? Yes, if you look closer. Like the painters of the 19th century, however, it is the woman who often occupies a very special place in the work of Lars Von Trier. Watch “Breaking The Waves”, “Dancer In The Dark” or even “Melancholia”. Emilie Watson, Björk or Kirsten Dunst: each heroine has her own style.
This is also the case for “Manderlay”, and of course, we could mention the two or three very inspiring pieces (pants, a few tops) by Bryce Dallas Howard.
Copyright: imago/Entertainment Pictures
The scenario is a pretext. A gang of gangsters headed by a father and his daughter, a plantation with its masters and slaves. At the heart of it all: a reflection on freedom, power and the human condition which ends with the voice of a great fashion lover . Some researchers may still be thinking about the meaning of all this.
In the meantime, it's certain, “Manderlay” is much more cerebral, philosophical and pessimistic than “O Brother”. However, beyond its minimal decor, its staging and its sometimes disturbing spirit, “Manderlay” also tells us something about style with overalls – and as always with fashion, it is less futile or anecdotal than it seems .
So let's forget the mafia costumes of Willem Dafoe, Jean-Marc Barr and others. Let's also forget the grizzled elegance of Danny Glover and focus instead on the key character of Isaac de Bankolé. This is the free electron.
He is here “classified” as proud, charming, cheating and solitary. This is certainly one of the mysteries of “Manderlay”, an inexhaustible source of attraction. If you ever fear for your sex appeal by wanting to try overalls , you may find something to reassure you here. Otherwise, remember that Brad Pitt partly became famous thanks to this item of clothing.
Meanwhile, our man wears denim overalls sometimes with nothing, other times with a white long sleeve henley . In this last look, we obviously find the US spirit already developed in the outfits of George Clooney or Henri Fonda.
But note that the henley + overalls configuration can also be combined in the French style, as here at Lino Ventura in the very WTF “ Fantasia chez les ploucs ” by Gérard Pirès in 1971:
(Photo by Mondadori via Getty Images)
That being said, know that it is always possible to shake up tradition a little . This is what Isaach de Bankolé offers in “Manderlay” by adding to the ensemble a very enigmatic colorful vest with ¾ sleeves .
On our scale, we could why not imagine as an alternative an RRL type cardigan or failing that any type of cardigan with character . Can you see the outfit? There you are. Now for the modern era.
15. Overalls and yellow color
“ He or she ” (Anahita Ghazvinizadeh, 2017)
https://www.imago-images.com/st/0098314572
What can we say about the overalls in their short, summer version ? That we wear it a lot in women but that it is not uncommon to come across it in men. Look for example at jeans brands, or at workwear specialists.
It’s clear that it’s as cool as the overalls as we’ve seen them so far. We can imagine many materials other than the fabric of jeans, and associations with t-shirts, shirts or even espadrilles .
So it's summer? It seems like. But the thinking behind our last example is a little more complex than the right combination of pieces to choose for a summer outfit .
“He or She” is the first film by Iranian Anahita Ghazvinizadeh: her cinema has something of an inner poem. He whispers and likes to take refuge in the folds of childhood.
He also loves light and its reflections, nature and ethereal atmospheres. It also asks a number of questions about identity – whether sexual or cultural.
Copyright: Courtesy Everett Collection
For the record, Anahita Ghazvinizadeh took classes with Abbas Kiarostami – an influence, and a major filmmaker as well. Take a look at “Close-Up”, “And life goes on…” or even “The Taste of Cherry”.
The central character of “He or She”
Every day he keeps a list on which he writes G for Girl or B for Boy depending on how he feels. Present him with an hourglass and his first desire will be to freeze it indefinitely. Thus protected by the world of childhood, he would then no longer have to choose that set by adults.
Around him, attentive parents and an artist sister who shares her life with a young exiled Iranian. J. likes cats, flowers and poems. In his wardrobe, we also discover other possibilities which in a certain way question our relationship to gender and clothing .
Imagine for a moment your daily life free of the male/female boundary. What new spaces would then open up?
In J.'s wardrobe, we find a floral print dress worn with sneakers . There are also Bermuda shorts, T-shirts and long shirts . Because the film likes to play with light and photography, we particularly feel the colors here.
And the overalls here also have a symbolic value in a certain way: we can see them as the last rampart of childhood. It is a garment that reassures , and which can also bring to mind vacations, sunny days and other happy memories.
Look at the outfit that opens and in a certain way marks the film: denim overalls, a pair of sneakers with probably patchwork and an obsessive yellow t-shirt , a color that we have already focused on here .
It's simple, colorful, definitely comfortable and universal. Is this an outfit you would try this summer? Up to you.
