8 rules to break to develop a truly unique style

Let me tell you a story.

It takes place at the Summer Olympic Games in Mexico, in 1968. A young American throws himself towards a bar at a height of 2.03m. As he runs, no one knows that he is going to achieve something extraordinary, no one knows that he is going to break the rules.

As his body, after the jump, crashes onto the soft mattress, a silence of incomprehension fills the stadium.

What happened ?

The young American has just jumped like no one has ever jumped and the jury is having a hard time knowing if it is valid. In fact, instead of the traditional belly roll jump (we present our stomach facing the bar), this one presents our back. When the jury finally accepts the jump which nothing prohibits, the other athletes shrug their shoulders and the public takes him for an eccentric.

However when, after five victorious jumps, he was the only one to pass the 2.24m mark, the stadium exploded with joy in the heat of Mexico.

Dick Fosbury becomes Olympic champion and the inventor of a new style that all jumpers will later imitate. From now on, we will talk about the Fosbury jump.

Why am I telling you this ?

Well because I would like, like Fosbury, that you could change your outlook on all the things you know, go beyond the rules to make them yours, to twist them according to your creativity and your sensitivity.

Of course, you can have a lot of style while respecting the rules but after all, clothing is a vector of pleasure, must be a source of joy. So why not do it your own way?

To help you, I'm giving you here 8 rules that I regularly break.

Let the Style Olympics begin!

1. Never wear white socks with business outfits

Yes, I know, I'm starting strong. I hit where it hurts and I already see some taking position, in the corner of the woods, the rifle aimed squarely at me between the two eyes.

Not even afraid.

Why is this a rule?

For two reasons :

1. Because visually, it contrasts too much and takes precedence over the rest of the outfit.
2. Because even if they are fine, made of lisle thread, their white color will always remind you of the sweat of the locker room.

How to transgress it?

The only way I've found to wear it outside of the locker room is to imitate the Ivy League students and also Steve McQueen and Paul Newman.

Here is a more contemporary example to follow:

To succeed in this transgression, therefore:

1. In my opinion, this only works with moccasins. Yes, I know, this shoe that many find too overbearing, even old-fashioned. But it is so practical and can be worn with any outfit outside of a too formal context.
2. Choose beige chinos or light jeans to limit the contrast as much as possible.
3. Another important element: choose socks that are rather ecru and not white. The ecru and beige combination is more subtle.

For the top, keep it simple: t-shirt/bomber jacket. No ? Doesn’t that tempt you?

Come on, try… At least to get the bread!

2. Never wear dark blue and black together

Why is this a rule?

My father reminded me of her even though he was never the dandy type. And that’s saying something. Kiss daddy.

In fact, it's because they are too close shades. And their marriage causes a sort of blur in the silhouette, an ill-defined visual sensation, as if the wearer had dressed in the dark and had never been able to distinguish them.

How to transgress it?

We must therefore show that we have been able to differentiate between blue and black.

The answer is to imitate Alessandro Squarzi and therefore to:

1. Playing with materials (here raw canvas, leather, mesh)
2. Wear quality clothing (where black is beautiful black and blue is beautiful blue)

Indeed, a worn black t-shirt, which tends towards gray, on navy chinos that have been worn, looks neglected. Without a shadow of a doubt.

Two other associations to test come to mind:

• Suit in a navy blue that takes the light well (possibly textured - caviar - with silk for example for light) + turtleneck (depending on the season) or black merino sweater
• Blue raw denim jacket and black t-shirt + charcoal jeans + black boots

Executed well, it gives sophistication to the wearer. And, it may sound weird but a good glaze on your black shoes can really make a difference!

3. Men should not wear jewelry

Why is this a rule?

The relationship between fantasy and virility has long been complicated. We could have thought that the man was a serious being. That his mind should focus on less futile things than what shines.

Good.

This is of course debatable.

I've always heard that the only men's jewelry that was socially acceptable were watches and cufflinks (and bracelets?)... And since we don't wear much more than shirts with simple cuffs, we're left with nothing left. than the watch.

It's as fun as playing Strip Poker alone.

Let's say that society is evolving: what was socially unacceptable in the past is now tolerated.

So I'm taking advantage of the breach to claim my right to look like a maharaja if I feel like it!

How to transgress it?

So, without going so far as to follow the example of this young overlord, I find that jewelry helps to loosen up a style of clothing that is too clean . It’s handy for bringing out the rockstar in you.

My advice for slumming: take it slowly.

But go for it anyway!

Start with a silver bracelet, a bangle from Orner , or Gudule for example. If you want to accumulate some quickly for a modest sum, look at Asos (I can only advise you to keep it simple).

Then, later, if you're still interested, maybe why not another one, with beads, a small one in brown for example (beautiful ones can be found on the Madlord e-shop). And then, two rings at once! Because a single fact is more valuable, paradoxically. More jewelry, in fact! Whereas two on the same hand and they are more accessories serving style.

At this point, those around you should make a small comment to you. But what does it matter? Do you think a rockstar like you is going to be intimidated for so little?

So ! That's the spirit.

4. Both sides of the tie must be the same length

Why is this a rule?

There are those who consider that the tie is a protocol accessory that must remain prudent (these are the supporters of this rule). There are those who consider that we must wear a tie as we would wear a Dali mustache (these are the supporters of the transgression of this rule).

Which ones are you part of?

How to transgress it?

What we need to understand is that style does not come from our assiduity in blindly following the rules. It comes from the charm of a man. And you have to be a little disoriented to feel the charm.

It's the mole on Cindy Crawford's cheek.

It's the beat-up Barbour jacket you get from your dad.

It's an old parquet floor that creaks from having hosted too many parties.

Well, like everything else, it's not a question of overdoing it: let the thinnest part protrude slightly.

To succeed in this transgression:

1. The tie should not be too thin in my opinion (8 cm is good)
2. The pants will preferably be high or medium waisted (low waist and tie do not generally go well together, unless you have very long legs and a short or medium bust - see how to dress according to your body type )
3. The collar of the shirt will be adapted to the width of the tie and Italian perhaps, or American with the collar buttons undone (à la Giovanni Agnelli, the idea is to relax the tie)
4. The lapels of the jacket will be adapted to the width of the shirt collar (but this does not particularly concern this transgression, you must always pay attention to the proportions)

The narrower side, slightly longer, adds style because it creates asymmetry.

As if Danilo Carnevale hadn't looked in the mirror before leaving his house. While we all know full well that he set his alarm at the wrong time to have time to put together this falsely neglected outfit.

5. Not wearing a Canadian suit (= pairing a denim top and bottom)

Why is this a rule?

I have a question to ask you.

Have you ever felt like you were in disguise?

I'm not talking about cross-dressing once in a while. That’s quite normal! I'm talking about having, one day, made a somewhat daring stylistic choice that made you uncomfortable as soon as you set foot outside.

Except it's too late, you're already ringing the in-laws' doorbell.

Confidence: once, in the fog of my adolescence, I dressed in red chinos, a navy blue shirt with a red logo, navy and red Gola sneakers and a red and white polka dot scarf. And I was sober.

I now know that shame does not kill. On the other hand, it can make your nose bleed for 7 and a half minutes. But it doesn't kill!

In short!, the Canadian suit (mentioned in Axel's article explaining how to wear a denim jacket ) is one of those outfits which, poorly executed, disguise you. That's why the cold rule is not to wear it.

And I can't help but show you the terrible scourge that will fall on you if you master the technique poorly:

How to transgress it?

It's very simple, you will see:

1. Don't choose tailoring pieces (no imitation denim blazer like our friend Justin Timberlake here, because you can very easily fall into the second degree and therefore disguise), prefer casual.
2. Make sure that the denim jacket is a sufficiently contrasting color to the jeans (raw jeans and light jacket or vice versa, even if the first association is more instinctive).
3. For more naturalness, avoid both clothes being equally new. One of the two needs to be visibly more worn for it to really work well. The exception is if, like Ryan Gosling in Drive, you opt for a medium blue denim jacket and black jeans (the combination with gray also works very well).

6. Match your belt and shoes

Why is this a rule?

To be clear, if you are in a suit and working in a formal environment, follow this rule. Matching your shoes, your belt and your watch ensures a certain peace of mind.

It's a good rule.

So why bypass it? Because it's fun and, once again, charm often comes from imperfection.

How to transgress it?

You can only do this when you wear casual chic or downright casual outfits in my opinion.

Some tips and precautions:

• Choose a colorful belt that contrasts with the rest of the outfit.
• Try monochrome: light brown shoes and a dark brown belt (or vice versa).
• Do not wear black shoes with a brown belt and vice versa. Because in this case, people will think that you didn't do it on purpose.

7. Not tucking your t-shirt or sweater into your pants

Why is this a rule?

Because it's not at all intuitive. It's a bit of a common sense rule actually. Like not getting your pants stuck in your socks when you think about it.

In addition, since a sweater often has ribbed edges to hug the hips, why tuck it into the pants? As for the t-shirt, it is an inherently casual piece so we wear it outside of the pants.

However, in the life of an elegant man, one day comes the irresistible desire to tuck our t-shirt/sweater into our pants. Nobody knows why. A bit like when you want to taste tofu for the first time. No one really knows why we want to do this. And in the end, some people often come back to it when others don't want to hear about it anymore.

How to transgress it?

Several ways:

To pass for a New Wave actor/director...

Which can be cool... This is a bit the case for Instagrammer Jonathan James Turner.

Well, personally I have nothing against it, I do it from time to time, but it still makes us look quite dated. Especially when you have an old school hairstyle and shaved with a straight razor.

How to achieve this:

1. Choose high-waisted pants, a little loose and straight.
2. Tuck your sweater/t-shirt into your pants (yes).
3. Wear a belt that matches the ensemble (the JJT technique of a very long braided belt that lets it hang is interesting for this look, I recommend!)

Just because you're cool

For example, you can dress it up with simple sneakers or slightly shiny black brogues.

Easy indeed.

Well, the benefit in terms of style is not monstrous but since few people do it, it makes you stand out nicely. And for cheap too!

8. Don’t wear more than three colors

Why is this a rule?

When I was a teenager, if I had been epileptic, it is quite possible that I would never have gotten over some of my outfits (like the one I shared with you above). It looked like I was taking my inspiration from Desigual lookbooks.

And then, I learned.

The three color rule is a good rule when starting out. It keeps you from looking like a clown. Which is pretty good when you want to lead a peaceful existence.

But now you're more seasoned and it's time to go beyond this rule and meet André Churchwell, an American doctor we all wish we had for a grandfather.

There is brown, orange, yellow, purple, navy blue. That's already five.

How to transgress it?

Those who put together successful outfits full of color are like great cooks: they know which ingredients complement each other and conversely know which ones stand out and make the dish original. In our case, it's about seeing which colors echo each other.

This is how I read the outfit: the dark brown of the hat contrasts with the rust of the vest which flirts with the yellow of the checks of the suit which highlights the brighter yellow of the pocket square.

Great art!

And in the same way: the aubergine of the suit turns into a navy of the tie and ends in the sky blue of the pocket square.

It's about trusting yourself. To see which colors enrich each other.

But I really only have one thing to say to you: try!

Keep it simple first:

1. Create the base of your outfit (top, bottom, shoes) with three colors that go well together. You know which ones to use.
2. Decorate with accessories in different colors but which echo the base of your outfit.

The final word...

At first, Fosbury was told he would never succeed if he didn't follow the rules. But he stood his ground.

Persevere in your desire to be elegant and different! Fun should be at the heart of this business! You must first dress for yourself, because you want to please yourself or simply look good in what you wear.

For this, men's fashion is full of rules that will help you dress beautifully without making any missteps. Only one fine day, we want to take a more personal path, we want to explore what our own creativity can offer us. So what to do?

Transgress.

Edward VII after a too copious meal would have unbuttoned the last button of his waistcoat, which was then always worn completely closed. The same one who, walking outside in the mud, would have rolled up his pants. Transgression, in my opinion, is valid when it is either aesthetic or practical.

So yes, it requires showing a little daring, because people generally judge by appearances. But why should that stop us?

If you sometimes break the rules, you are not safe from giving more personality to your style. Or even reinvent it.

Up to you !