Symbol of the Wild West, a key piece of 90s fashion that was also found on the shoulders of legends such as Marlon Brando, Elvis Presley and Bob Marley, the denim jacket has come a long way before landing in your closet. While its history is as vast as the great American plains, the denim jacket has today become an essential basic in the men's wardrobe.
The short history of the denim jacket
Blurred origins and historical precedents
While it is customary to say that the denim jacket truly appeared in the early 20th century in the United States, there are historical precedents. Already in the early 19th century, some factions of Japanese firefighters were wearing jackets called Hanten , soaked in indigo . , whose aesthetics could recall the first denim jackets that we would later find in the United States. Moreover, these same Hanten are now redesigned and offered in denim fabrics.
Blue overalls are the quintessential French worker's clothing.
Here again, having preceded the great era of denim, we recall the French "bleu de travail", work clothing in cotton canvas and dyed with indigo whose design echoes that of today's denim jackets.
An invention “made in the USA”
Among the epics that only America knows the secret of, that of the denim jacket, closely linked to the history of the Levi's brand.
An example of the Type 1 denim Jacket from Levi's.
As early as 1905, Loeb Strauss invented the first denim jacket, known as the "Levi's Blouse" or "Type I Denim Jacket". It was originally designed as a complement to work pants.
An example of the Type 2 denim Jacket from Levi's.
Later, in 1953, the Levi's company released its Type II denim Jacket, whose features had evolved. A second pocket on the chest was added, the martingale was removed, replaced by adjusters at the hips.
An example of the Type 3 denim Jacket from Levi's.
Finally, the current reference in denim jackets remains the "Type III denim Jacket", also known as the "Trucker Jacket". This model appeared in the early 60s. More fitted, the contrasting seams at the construction lines are also more numerous. It is also the appearance of pointed finishes at the chest pockets.
The contemporary denim jacket
Moreover, and throughout the 20th century, the denim jacket has spanned the ages and major fashion trends. Worn by the rebellious youth of the 50s, by the bohemian hippies of the 60s or diverted by the punk movement of the 70s, the denim jacket is trans-generational.
Better still, it is adopted by great personalities including James Dean, Elvis Presley and Marilyn Monroe. , Bing Crosby or later Madonna. It is this "stardom" that will push great designers such as Calvin Klein to propel the denim jacket to the forefront. Having become part of our customs, it is now a must-have.
How to choose the right denim jacket?
Every time the first rays of sunshine appear, the shelves automatically fill up with mid-season jackets of all kinds. Among them, the famous denim jackets and the hundreds of models that pile up. Difficult to find your way around? So to save you a difficult choice, here are some tips.
Cut and composition
As explained earlier, the origin of the denim jacket is attributed to the Levi's Strauss brand. After many evolutions, the latest model, the "Type III Denim Jacket", remains the reference when it comes to the design of current denim jackets.
Some variations exist. Among them, the sherpa model . Don't panic, it's just a classic denim jacket, lined with sheep's wool. and designed for harsher climates . Today we also find pieces where only the collar is lined and sometimes removable .
Some rules to remember
As always when it comes to clothing, personal taste and sensibility prevail . However, here are some basic rules that may come in handy if you only have to buy one denim jacket.
Two examples of properly cut denim jackets, of good length that properly dress the figure.
To start, choose a fitted jacket , the armpit seams should neither stick to the underside of your arm nor be too loose. You should feel supported , without being tight when you close the buttons of your jacket. A reasonable length is considered to be at least below the belt without covering the buttocks.
A classic denim jacket will feature a few traditional elements including a shirt collar, two flap pockets on the chest, a button placket with five buttons, and contrasting stitching. On the back, it is not uncommon to find tightening tabs.
As with a good pair of jeans , it is necessary to be careful when choosing the material. Indeed, avoid synthetic materials and opt for a 100% cotton canvas, with a weight between 12 and 14 Oz. Rigid when worn, the canvas will relax and adapt to your body shape over time. Also pay attention to the seams and their stopping points, which must be numerous so that your piece is solid and durable over time.
Example of a very particular patina and traces of use.
Again, if you had to choose only one denim jacket, I advise you to opt for a raw canvas which will develop a patina over time .
How to wear a denim jacket?
A thousand and one possible looks
The denim jacket has the advantage of being able to be worn in many circumstances. Whether we are talking about fashion or climate, this piece is evolving and follows the course of the seasons. It is plural, both in terms of colors, cuts or design, easily integrating into many looks. Would it be conceivable that you are missing one in your wardrobe? To help you find your way, here are some examples of looks that you can draw inspiration from.
The basic version
The denim jacket is enough in itself, worn simply and without any other artifice.
Perfect for mid-season or for the first days of summer, the denim jacket is most often worn over a simple light t-shirt . We create a contrast by adding, at the bottom, a pair of chinos that stand out , in warmer shades - earth, beige, ecru, brown - that we can associate with all sorts of shoes in more pronounced colors that will wake up the whole outfit (like here, a pair of bright red loafers). In a more streetwear style , the denim jacket also goes with darker shades, by opting for a dark t-shirt/jogging pants set, by adding a pair of basic white sneakers that lighten the final result a little.
The layering version
Explore the possibilities of layering by adding a denim jacket to your more wintery outfits.
The denim jacket is an excellent element to add to an outfit worn in a layered version . It becomes a central component, worn fitted to outline the silhouette , under a wool overcoat, a thick cardigan or a long coat for example. The possibilities are endless and bring body to the outfit. The result is worked and requires a real mastery of layering for those who like outfits in a more workwear vein.
The Canadian version
When done right, the Canadian version - a look consisting of a jacket and denim pants - can be quite aesthetic...
Rarely recommended, the famous "Canadian costume" is actually the combination of jeans and a denim jacket. The wrong combination of these two pieces can quickly make you commit a taste error. As seen previously, the first solution is to incorporate a denim jacket into a layered outfit . On the first suggestion, it brings body and depth to the silhouette. Otherwise, mismatch the colors of the bottom and top , and bet on pieces and accessories in bright colors or patterns that will bring contrast.
The winter version
The sherpa jacket is an asset to keep up your sleeve in anticipation of the first chills of winter.
The Sherpa version is to be considered for harsher climates. It is already a strong piece, with a fairly strong stylistic bias. In the workwear vein, add a simple mottled sweater and dark pants to adopt a very current style. The denim jacket and even more the sherpa version, goes perfectly with a lumberjack-inspired plaid shirt .
The creator version
A denim jacket revisited according to more "creative" standards could seduce the most daring.
The denim jacket is a traditional piece of the male wardrobe. It is therefore normal that it is constantly revisited and reinvented by fashion designers. If you are a fan of strong and worked pieces , do not hesitate to choose a more unusual model . However, be careful with the rest of your outfit. Indeed, it should be simple in order to avoid too much information and visual overload. Among the slightly original pieces you will find patchwork models, perhaps in labels accustomed to upcycling , others more deconstructed, embellished with patches and other fanciful details.
Team selection
As usual, a few members of the team have taken a look at the pieces that are worth checking out.
Nicolo's selection
The Tellason model
A more original version, in a 100% workwear adventurer spirit, by Tellason . It is also made in Cone Mills denim, the last American slevedge denim mill, which closed its doors recently... It's a little piece of history.
The Standard House model
A nice model at Maison Standard , and rather affordable. Comfortable with its stretch denim, with a touch of originality thanks to the pocket at the bottom.
The Naked and Famous model
A variation from Naked & Famous , as always classic in shape, but stronger in material, with its very light canvas in a denim with a more summery shade.
Axel's selection
The Levi's Vintage Clothing model
I particularly like this Levi's Vintage Clothing jacket which takes up the design of the traditional Levi's Type 1. A nice tribute to the brand at the origin of this iconic piece.
The East Dust model
What is interesting about this Eat Dust model is the stitching details on the chest pockets. The cinching highlights the silhouette and shapes the torso.
The Nudie Jeans & Co model
This Nudie Jeans piece caught my eye while I was looking for a style with a natural wash. The details also give it a more authentic, almost old-fashioned feel.
Jordan's (first) selection
The General Pharmacy model
The double-slider zip of this Officine Générale model is a genius invention. Especially for sitting behind the wheel of the racing car of your choice.
The Oliver Spencer Model
I like products that evoke stories. And with this Oliver Spencer jacket, I am clearly in an artist's studio under the roofs of Paris.
The Momotaro model
You have to see this Momotaro jacket age and develop a patina. If I meet a guy in a bar with this on his back and he says to me "Man, I've been around the block..." I'll believe him straight away!
Denim and vintage
For lovers of authenticity and retro style, don't hesitate to scour the racks of thrift stores which are, for the most part, well stocked with more or less dated vintage pieces. If the cut and fit are not always up to date, it will however be suitable for those who wish to experiment with a more original style or simply looking for good deals . Another advantage of thrift store pieces? The patinas and washes of certain models will bring a real cachet to some of your outfits.
The final word...
A piece full of history, the denim jacket should become a basic in your wardrobe as it is so versatile, whether it is a simple mid-season jacket, or a perfect complement to a layered outfit.
A beautiful piece must have a fitted cut and a well-made fabric. As with good jeans, a denim jacket requires a certain financial investment. Beautiful pieces exist from 120 euros. For a piece that lasts over time, don't be afraid to pay the price.
