Fashion is full of legends. Do we really owe the sacrosanct rule of the second open blazer button to Edward VII? Mary Quant, designer of Swinging London
Guillaume Sagot is a young designer who is passionate about this last question. Himself originally from French Rome , he launched his brand of jeans made in France in 2016: Ateliers de Nîmes . His goal ? Offering high-end models, inspired by the history of its city.
Let's take a closer look!
Ateliers de Nîmes: the small label that dreams of a big project
No doubt a little chauvinistic on the edges, the world of the brand appealed to me. Curious, I met Guillaume to find out more.
How did the idea for this brand come to you?
I had arrived in Paris for work. I worked in web communications, without much conviction. Before that, I had studied history. Let’s just say I fumbled quite a bit!
After four years, I ended up leaving communications to return to Nîmes, where I grew up. There, I thought about an old idea that had been bouncing around in my head since high school: creating a Nîmes brand of jeans, which paid homage to the city's past.
Very quickly, I was joined by Anthony — a sales friend, who happens to be in jeans. We then surrounded ourselves with a graphic designer, and then the machine was launched.
So, is the legend true?
Several elements suggest that yes. In the 16th century, Nîmes was famous for its wool and silk twill. Even if it was not made in the same way as today's denim - the raw material being different - its structure is very similar. Cotton, cheaper, will also be introduced later (coming from Africa and Asia).
What about the distribution of this painting?
There are several hypotheses. The first involves the Beaucaire fair, which was a major European commercial meeting. It is believed that weavers from the region could have sold Nîmes fabric there.
Old engraving of the Beaucaire fair (18th century). The city was even nicknamed “French capital of goods”.
The second would be the result of religious wars. Many of these weavers were Protestants. Following the various conflicts, as well as the revocation of the Edict of Nantes
There is undoubtedly an element of fantasy in all this. That said, I have already been able to consult a small booklet published in 1956 by Levi's, which went in this direction...
Can you tell us about your sourcing and manufacturing?
I went to Japan, but it was in Italy that I found my happiness. I was charmed by the flexibility of their canvases, changing from the very purist side of the Japanese. I also wanted to stay in Europe... So I turned to Candiani , forcing myself to only choose selvedge.
Then, I looked for a workshop for assembly. I wanted it in the Gard, but it was wasted effort. There are only two or three French workshops capable of managing jeans production. We found our partners in Paris and Marseille.
The canvas is Italian. Manufacturing, although French, is not done in Nîmes. So is the brand name really appropriate?
In fact, this first “wave” of jeans is a way of developing a local semi-craft. Our objective is to buy looms to produce our fabric in Nîmes. We are thinking of a workshop which could also be a museum of local history. It would be a nice way to “close the loop”…
The machines that Guillaume would like to acquire.
We have already taken a step in this direction, by buying an old loom that can only be worked by hand. Impossible to obtain denim, but the result is close to the Nîmes canvas. We are currently thinking about how to integrate it into the next collection.
A hand loom...
... For a Nîmes canvas close to denim.
What would you say to those who accuse you of playing on French tailoring as a marketing argument?
That it would be easier for us to do otherwise. We have not chosen the simplest path, but we are working towards a project in which we believe. Who has a soul, a history, and wants to pay homage to our heritage.
We are lucky to be well surrounded. Our distributors support us by agreeing to go through a pre-order system, which allows us to produce the exact quantities. Local institutions also support us in our approach.
What is the next step ?
We are going to launch a crowdfunding campaign to raise awareness of our project. On the product side, we would also like to create a more exclusive range, with hand-cuts and numbered pieces. To be continued...
High-end jeans, made in France
For this test, I chose the Indigo Soft Rince model (€235). I was curious to see how a raw, selvedge, and stretch canvas would evolve at the same time...
A special canvas…
Most of the time, we find the addition of a few percent of elastane, often two or three. Here, the canvas consists of 75% cotton, 25% elastomultiester
The composition does not seem to pose a problem on the dyeing side
A canvas full of reflections, with several shades of blue.
The weight is 11 oz. Having worn it intensely in recent months, I found it a little light for winter . It will be more suitable for the rest of the year, in my opinion.
It is also a material weight that we could recommend to those unaccustomed to raw denim, lighter than the thick fabrics which are a hit at first.
As for the finishes…
We feel the care given by Guillaume to the product, which is full of small details.
The belt is mounted with chain stitches and there are reinforcement points in strategic places. The same inside, with very regular seams.
Stopping points where needed...
...And very neat seams.
The rivets are hidden and the buttons are a pretty color. On the pocket side, Guillaume chooses bags in a cotton/polyester mix, for strength.
The leather patch stamped with the brand logo.
In short, we find what we have the right to expect from jeans from this range. That being said, I regret one detail about the loops: it would have been desirable for them to pass under the belt , in order to guarantee better hold over time.
A cut close to the body
We are clearly on a slim cut, which is accentuated by the stretch present in the material.
For now, the brand only offers slim cuts . This can be understood
Besides, I didn't feel tight, the silhouette is highlighted.
How does stretch selvedge wash?
It was this question that pushed me to choose Indigo Soft. To what extent would the stretch fibers — representing a quarter of the composition — influence the washing?
The first two months, the canvas remained as it was . The indigo bled slightly onto my other clothes, but nothing more.
Finally, after the third month, the first traces began to appear. From there, it faded at its own pace , but more visibly.
Little by little, the canvas faded according to my habits.
For this test, I have worn it almost every day since mid-November. I'm happy with the evolution of the canvas, and I'm waiting to see what happens next. You just have to be patient...
The final word…
Ateliers de Nîmes stands out from other jeans brands by its roots and its ambition.
The tailoring is well done. The supplies are chosen carefully, the assembly is clean and the finishes are clean - even if there is still a slight margin for improvement in this direction.
At €235, if we think in terms of “pure and pure” quality/price ratio, you will be able to find a cheaper equivalent. That being said, it will not have been created with the same approach… nor in the same country.
Buying Ateliers de Nîmes jeans means choosing French production and supporting a project, a beautiful story. Everyone is free to join, then.
Anyway, if the Guillaume museum sees the light of day, I will take a ticket.
