“Full canvas”, “traditional canvas”, “full canvas” or even “full canvas”…
If you browse men's fashion blogs, you've probably heard one of these terms before.
The canvas suit arouses a lot of fantasies, despite its reputation as a (very) expensive garment... It is seen as the "grail" of tailoring , above the semi-canvased, and much superior to the heat-sealed.
If you have never worn a full canvas jacket before, the result may be surprising at first: the jacket "lives" and accompanies your body, especially since our suit is made from a rather fluid material. Compared to a semi-canvassed jacket, we feel a great “natural” feeling. And once you taste it, it's hard to go back...
The full interfacing allows for a much more natural drape.
A fully canvassed suit
I think we are witnessing a pivotal moment in the sartorial world. A few years ago, thanks to growing consumer demands, heat-sealed materials gradually gave way to semi-canvased materials in different price ranges.
The same movement is underway again: full interlining is about to become more widespread... And if we can help this happen in France, I would be absolutely delighted!
Our pride ? Offer a fully canvassed suit below the €600 mark , where it would normally be sold for around €1000 at small brands, or even several thousand euros for the most luxurious.
The goal is simple: for the majority of you, I would really like this to be your very first canvas suit, just like some ordered their first selvedge jeans from us.
What is “full canvas”?
If you take a suit jacket, and you don't put interlining in it, it will hang like a shirt.
The interlining is therefore the guarantor of the shape of the jacket, allowing you to play on the fit, the support, the look... The material which gives this volume is called the tailor canvas , placed between the lining and the fabric outside.
The famous tailor's canvas. Just by looking at it, you can already see that it’s a breathable material!
There is a delicate balance to find between rigidity, to have a suit that "fits", and flexibility, for comfort and ease. That’s the whole point of tailoring art!
In fact, every suit was made this way until the 1960s but, with the emergence of ready-to-wear, it was necessary to find a simpler, faster and much less expensive manufacturing technique. That's where iron-on came in, then semi-canvased, but that's another story.
Full covering, the noblest of constructions
The advantages of full covering are undeniable:
- The durability of the suit is increased . Without iron-on, no blisters that form over time!
- Since iron-on is a fairly closed synthetic material, it retains perspiration. While the tailored canvas, based on natural materials, and whose weave is very airy, allows the jacket to breathe .
- The jacket simply consists of the fabric, the tailoring canvas and the thread. The piece is more flexible, more comfortable. The interlining is separated from the outer fabric, the suit naturally accompanies your movements.
A traditional interlining suit fully moves with you, unlike other constructions.
- The “stilted” effect sometimes associated with the costume therefore disappears. Wearing it suddenly seems easier, almost spontaneous, especially when the wearer is moving.
- It's far from just being a matter of comfort, since the way the jacket hangs depends on the interlining. A beautiful construction therefore lets the material reveal its full potential , even more so when it is a flexible fabric!
The material: Bengaline wool from Fratelli Tallia di Delfino
The weaver Fratelli Tallia di Delfino stands out for his desire to create high-end products while respecting traditions , while bringing a touch of modernity and technicality . Our fabric is no exception!
We will not dwell further on this House which we have already presented in more detail when our first costumes were released.
Let's talk about the material instead...
The quality you are accustomed to...
It is a 100% Australian merino wool bengaline , called "Super 120's", whose blue color was developed exclusively for us by Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino.
Bengaline is a fabric that could be described as a sort of "micro-embossed", or rather...
A beautiful blue developed exclusively for BonneGueule, on a textured “bengaline” weave.
“A “Super Thing” fabric, what does that mean?”
Well, this means that you will have in your hands a wool with a very fine fiber, without being too fragile...
The weight of the material is 170g/m2, a so-called “4 Seasons” wool that can be worn all year round.
In short, so far, no surprises: we offer you a quality fabric made from beautiful wool. But that wasn't enough for us, we needed a little something extra...
... With a small technical dimension!
What is special about this costume is first of all its bengaline weave, with a more "dry" and "nervous" hand.
In addition, it presents an unexpected “mechanical stretch” … and welcome! Without the need to add elastane, the very properties of the weave offer a certain natural flexibility to the fabric. Combined with the freedom of movement offered by traditional interlining, you get a suit that is truly pleasant to wear.
With this soft material and the fluid interlining, yes, you will be able to do that in your suit.
Furthermore, something unusual for a flowing suit fabric, ours has excellent resistance to pilling : it obtained a score of 4 out of 5 in the Martindale test. Concretely, you will be able to wear it quite often without worrying that it will get damaged too quickly.
The yarn has also been treated to retain very little odor , thus reinforcing the properties inherent to merino wool.
And the icing on the cake, like our previous Tallia di Delfino suits, this one has a water-repellent treatment.
So, no, it's not rain gear, but it's a nice detail. On the one hand, it can happen that you are surprised by a downpour. On the other hand, it greatly limits breakage in the event of splashes of various liquids such as wine or coffee...
In short, thanks to its material, it is the costume that you can wear without any hassle . Quite simply.
A “multi-function” style
A suit being what it is, it is above all a formal piece. But color-wise, we opted for a more “frank” and relaxed blue than our previous ones.
You can obviously go to work with it, that's also the goal... That said, the shade has nothing to do with anthracite or navy blue, which are more austere and formal!
So you can easily mismatch it ... Or even if you are invited to a wedding, where darker shades can seem too dull.
Its texture and fluidity also give it a slightly more summery side, it will be perfect for sunny days.
If you're still looking for the outfit that will allow you to wear minimalist white sneakers, this is probably it.
As for the details that we are fond of, you will obviously find the usual careful tailoring... For this time, we even went a little further, adding a few touches that you will discover this Sunday, March 18.
In the meantime, I'll tell you more about this costume right here...
How to get the new products for the month of March?
Our fully canvassed suit ( jacket and pants ), our first derby in English suede leather ( beige and navy color), the looped knit blazer in our Les Essentiels line, the blue jersey shirt and the striped Italian collar shirt are available on our e-shop!
You can also find them in our stores in Paris , Lyon and Bordeaux.
