“Full canvas”, “traditional canvas”, “full canvas” or even “full canvas”…
If you scour men's fashion blogs, you've definitely heard one of these terms before.
The canvassed suit arouses many fantasies, despite its reputation as a (very) expensive garment... It is seen as the "holy grail" of clothing , above the semi-canvassed, and much superior to the iron-on.
If you have never worn a full canvas jacket before, the result may be surprising at first: the jacket "lives" and accompanies your body, especially since our suit is made of a rather fluid material. Compared to a semi-canvas jacket, we feel a great sensation of "naturalness". And once you taste it, it is difficult to go back...
The full interfacing allows for a much more natural drape.
A fully canvassed suit
I think we are witnessing a pivotal moment in the sartorial universe. A few years ago, thanks to the growing demand of consumers, iron-on fabrics have gradually given way to semi-canvassed fabrics in different price ranges.
The same movement is underway again: full interlining is about to become more widespread... And if we can help make this happen in France, I would be absolutely delighted!
Our pride? Offering a fully canvassed suit for under €600 , where it would normally be sold for around €1000 for small brands, or even several thousand euros for the most luxurious ones.
The goal is simple: for the majority of you, I would really like this to be your very first canvassed suit, just like some of you ordered their first pair of selvedge jeans from us.
What is “full canvas”?
If you take a suit jacket, and you don't put any interfacing in it, it will fall like a shirt.
The interlining therefore guarantees the shape of the jacket, allowing you to play on the drape, the support, the look, etc. The material which gives this volume is called the tailor's canvas , placed between the lining and the outer fabric.
The famous tailor's canvas. Just by looking at it, you can already see that it is a breathable material!
There is a delicate balance to be found between rigidity, to have a suit that "holds", and flexibility, for comfort and ease. This is the whole point of tailoring!
In fact, every suit was made this way until the 1960s, but with the emergence of ready-to-wear, it was necessary to find a simpler, faster and much less expensive manufacturing technique. That's when iron-on came along, then semi-canvassed, but that's another story.
Full canvas, the noblest of constructions
The advantages of full canvas are undeniable:
- The durability of the costume is increased . Without iron-on adhesive, no blisters forming over time!
- Since the iron-on is a fairly closed synthetic material, it retains perspiration. While the tailor's canvas, based on natural materials, and whose weave is very airy, allows the jacket to breathe .
- The jacket is simply made up of fabric, tailor's canvas and thread. The piece is more flexible, more comfortable. The interlining is separate from the outer fabric, the suit naturally follows your movements.
A traditional interlining suit fully follows your movements, unlike other constructions.
- The "stiff" effect sometimes associated with the suit therefore disappears. It suddenly seems easier to wear, almost spontaneous, especially when the wearer is moving.
- It's not just about comfort, since the fall of the jacket depends on the interlining. A good construction therefore lets the material reveal its full potential , even more so when it's a soft fabric!
The material: bengaline wool from Fratelli Tallia di Delfino
The weaver Fratelli Tallia di Delfino stands out for its desire to create high-end products that respect traditions , while adding a touch of modernity and technicality . Our fabric is no exception!
We will not dwell further on this House, which we have already presented in more detail when our first costumes were released.
Let's talk about the matter instead...
The quality you are used to...
This is a 100% Australian merino wool bengaline , called "Super 120's", whose blue color was developed exclusively for us by Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino.
Bengaline is a fabric that could be described as a kind of "micro-waffle", see rather...
A beautiful blue developed exclusively for BonneGueule, on a textured “bengaline” weave.
"What does a 'Super thingamajig' fabric mean?"
Well, this means that you will have in your hands a wool with a very fine fiber, without being too fragile... This was, in our opinion, the ideal compromise: the finest wool fibres , are increasingly less able to withstand abrasion as their number increases, despite their splendor and rarity.
The weight of the material is 170g/m2, which is a so-called "4 Seasons" wool that can be worn all year round.
In short, so far, no surprises: we offer you a quality fabric made from beautiful wool. But that wasn't enough for us, we needed a little something extra...
...With a little technical dimension!
What is special about this suit is first of all its Bengaline weave, with a more "drier" and "nervous" hand. In other words, it is a fabric that creases very little!
In addition, it has an unexpected and welcome "mechanical stretch" ! Without the need to add elastane, the very properties of the weave provide a certain natural flexibility to the fabric. Combined with the freedom of movement offered by traditional interlining, you get a suit that is really pleasant to wear.
With this soft material and the fluid interfacing, yes, you will be able to do that in your costume.
Furthermore, something unusual for a fluid suit fabric, ours has excellent resistance to pilling : it obtained a score of 4 out of 5 in the Martindale test. In concrete terms, you will be able to wear it quite often without fear of it getting damaged too quickly.
The yarn has also been treated to retain very little odor , thus reinforcing the inherent properties of merino wool.
And the cherry on the cake, like our previous Tallia di Delfino suits, this one has a water-repellent treatment.
So, no, it's not rainwear, but it's a nice detail. On the one hand, you might get caught out in a downpour. On the other hand, it greatly limits breakage in the event of splashes of various liquids such as wine or coffee...
In short, thanks to its material, it is the costume that you can wear without any hassle . Quite simply.
A “multifunctional” style
A suit being what it is, it is a formal piece above all. But in terms of color, we opted for a more "frank" and casual blue than on our previous ones.
You can obviously go to work with it, that's also the goal... That said, the shade has nothing to do with anthracite or navy blue, which are more austere and formal!
So you can easily mismatch it ... Or even if you are invited to a wedding, where darker shades may appear too dull.
Its texture and fluidity also give it a slightly more summery feel, it will be perfect for sunny days.
If you're still looking for the outfit that will allow you to wear minimalist white sneakers, this is probably the one.
As for the details we are fond of, you will obviously find the usual careful tailoring... This time, we have even gone a little further, by adding a few touches that you will discover this Sunday, March 18.
In the meantime, I'll tell you more about this costume right here...
How to get the new products for March?
Our fully canvassed suit ( jacket and pants ), our first English suede derby ( beige and navy ), the boucle knit blazer in our Les Essentiels line, the blue jersey shirt and the striped Italian collar shirt are available on our e-shop!
You can also find them in our stores in Paris , Lyon and Bordeaux.
