Why costumes at BonneGueule?
It’s such an important garment that we wanted to move forward step by step. We first launched gray wool pants at the end of 2014, then a blazer during 2015 in order to refine, wear and test the suit down to the smallest detail.
Especially since it is THE garment that every man must wear one day , more or less frequently. Some of you spend long hours in there, 5 days a week! Hence the importance of having the ultimate costume…
It is also a garment with very strong “power capital”: in a beautiful, perfectly cut suit, you feel strong, masculine, elegant and confident . Much more than in a t-shirt for example.
It's not for nothing that the most famous spy in the world wears a suit!
The problem ? Many men endure the suit... it's a chore for them to wear one. They then completely miss the power suit effect of a beautiful suit .
We absolutely wanted our suit to be pleasant to wear, that it stood out in the morning, and that we wanted to wear our best shirt with it.
Another difficulty for us: the costume market is saturated, there are them at all prices. So we really wanted to bring our vision, whether in terms of materials or finishes (beyond the quality/price ratio, which remains crucial for us).
Let's see how we did it...
A technical wool from Maison Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino
Yes, the big news is in the title of this paragraph: these suits are made from high-end wool with a nanotechnology treatment giving it technical properties!
These wool fabrics come from the Italian house Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino created in 1903 and based in Biella in Italy (obviously).
It is the high-end branch of the very famous Italian group Marzotto , known worldwide for the quality of its costume fabrics (the weaver Guabello also belongs to it).
Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino is renowned for investing heavily in R&D, and for combining traditional know-how and new technologies .
Marzotto is one of the oldest Italian weavers still active, distinguishing himself in a perpetual search for new techniques. (Credits: Vogue Italia)
A wool with the best of tradition and modernity
As proof, the material we have chosen hides unexpected properties, thanks to a treatment at the heart of the fiber... while it remains 100% wool (which retains the brilliant properties of wool)!
- An aesthetic rendering without any compromise : natural reflections, a deep color, a material that sublimates in the light,
- A water-repellent material : water does not stick to the surface, which is very practical in the event of a surprise light shower,
- A wool that creases very little : a question of know-how and weaving typology, ideal for traveling,
- Breathable and anti-bacterial properties : because wool does not retain odors. You will be comfortable in summer or on public transport,
- A slight natural stretch : due to the structure of the fabric.
In addition to being breathable and slightly stretchy, the wool in our suits is water-repellent. #Legifcestlavie
And in case of rain, the drops will bead nicely on the surface without getting you wet.
Nano-materials at the heart of a Super 130's weave
The feat of Fratelli Tallia di Delfino is to have succeeded in giving a technical dimension to these wools without making the slightest compromise on the visual aspect . Above all, these are very beautiful wools, with beautiful reflections and a great feel.
To achieve this result, the industrial secret is well kept , we will know at most that it is the fiber itself which is treated using nano-materials (while usually, we apply a finish once the sheet completely woven wool, which lasts less over time).
Moreover, to give you an idea of the positioning of Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino, the price of this material is much higher than at Vitale Barberis Canonico. And it comes from Fratelli’s 360° range.
For the more technical among you, know that the wool is " Super 130's " with a weight of 260g for the Prince of Wales suit and the heather blue, and 280g for the plain navy blue.
How to maintain a water-repellent suit?
As I mentioned, it is the fiber of the yarn that is treated (and not the material after weaving) .
By taking your suit to the dry cleaners for dry cleaning, it will retain its technical properties much better than with a traditional finish.
And don't forget: a suit is 1 to 2 times a year at the dry cleaners, no more (unless you eat spaghetti with tomato every day).
Three costume colors, three inspirations
There are three colors for this costume!
Plain navy blue
It is the ideal color for a first suit (simple and effective), or for the most formal work environments and occasions.
An easy and sober color that goes with everything.
Heather blue
Next comes heather blue, with an equally wearable texture, but a little more original.
This is the suit for those who want a classic color with a slight twist .
The heathered side adds a little extra to a formal suit.
Gray Prince of Wales
From a distance, it's a sober and well-cut suit, but when you get closer, the pattern reveals itself with great subtlety.
It is ideal for those who already have several costumes , and who want to explore other designs without risk .
The gray Prince of Wales will appeal to those who already own a few costumes.
A cut that you already know...
In terms of cut, you won't be out of place, since it is the cut of our wool mesh blazer with Italian influences.
I remind you that it was Mr. Caruso who did the patterning, a great man in men's suits!
Flexibility and comfort
We find its supple and light shoulder, which naturally follows the build.
And the armhole is high, which gives you good freedom of movement.
The result is a fluid and very natural shoulder, very far from what is traditionally done among French brands.
Fitted, but not too tight
The moderate bending gives a slightly fitted cut , with a nice curve at the sides.
Small typically Italian detail: the sides of the jacket are well rounded on the front so that they hang nicely when walking. Since the jacket is worn with jeans that are starting to fade, I made a less formal tie knot than usual.
Straight, slightly fitted pants
And for the pants, it's the same cut as our wool flannel pants , slightly fitted to make them as versatile as possible.
It couldn't be simpler 😉
A very elaborate cut, in line with current trends.
The sartorial finishes of a century of European know-how
For this suit, we worked with the workshop in Romania which makes all our tailoring pieces (namely the summer blazer, the formal shirts, and now the suits). It is the flagship of a European textile basin almost a century old .
They perfectly met our expectations: barchetta, half-moon seams, salt shakers, milanese, kissing buttons in horn, belt with open ring...
The return of the Milanese buttonhole!
When our wool mesh blazer was released, there was one detail that did not escape you, it was this famous Milanese , made with needle and thread.
We sign and persist in offering our suits with this very particular buttonhole, which we find very elegant and which is a purist wink.
And besides, I believe we are the only ones in France to offer this ready-to-wear finish in our price range.
The famous Milanese buttonhole! And we can clearly see the Prince of Wales pattern.
Some people will only see it as a buttonhole that is a little finer than a machine buttonhole, but it means a lot to me because it illustrates our desire to offer you a finish usually reserved for suits costing €1,500, at a much more accessible price. .
Semi-canvassed suits
Like our mesh blazer, the jackets of all three suits are semi-canvassed .
As a reminder: between the lining and the fabric of the material, there is an iron-on (very light, you barely feel it) AND a tailoring canvas, partly made of horsehair.
It is this canvas which gives "body" to the chest , and which prevents the jacket from collapsing on your bust, the canvas being rigid and flexible at the same time.
Interlining is a very careful operation. She will guarantee the fit, the hold and the good aging of the jacket.
On our semi-traditional interlining, the tailoring canvas is present over the entire upper part of the blazer (up to the first button).
This provides some very interesting advantages:
- A much better fit at chest level,
- A collar that fits the neck and follows its shape,
- A pretty drop (inside the rolling of the reverse): the rolling of the reverse is very beautiful and is not vulgarly crushed with an iron,
The drop has a nice roll, as opposed to the flat appearance of a heat-sealed back.
- The blazer adapts and reacts much better to everyday movements, given that the tailored fabric is not attached to the outer fabric (unlike heat-sealed),
- Greater durability : a semi-canvassed jacket will stand the test of time and will respond much better to traditional pressing.
For the most curious among you, know that I have already discussed at length the interest of semi-canvassing in the article presenting our wool mesh blazer .
Sleeve buttonholes… closed, to facilitate alterations
If you looked closely at the photos, you noticed that the buttonholes on the sleeves are closed , although we have regularly written that open buttonholes are often an indicator of fine workmanship.
But open buttonholes posed a (big) problem for us: retouching the sleeve length would have been very complicated, with the retoucher having to completely dismantle the sleeve at shoulder level to shorten it. And I might as well tell you that it is a very expensive finish... that some people even refuse to do.
We find the "kissing buttons", with the buttons which overlap slightly. The buttonhole is deliberately closed to facilitate alteration of the sleeves.
Whereas in the case of closed buttonholes, the retoucher can very easily shift the buttonholes and retouch the length of the sleeve from below. More classic, retouching is much less expensive and easy to do (around €30)!
We therefore chose to close the buttonholes, for maximum freedom in alterations .
And obviously, you can extend the sleeves by 2 or 3 cm…
“There are white threads on the sleeves and at the bottom, is that normal?”
Yes ! We call them “frame wires”. There are some on the sleeves, on the back panels, and on the Milanese buttonhole. They protect these areas during transport.
In the same way, the exterior pockets and the chest pocket are sewn, to keep them secure throughout the delivery circuit.
Whether it's the basting threads or the pockets to be opened, simply remove the threads (with a small, sharp blade, not your butter knife).
It's very simple to do, and it takes 47 seconds to unstitch (it's even a pleasure when you buy a beautiful piece).
Practical details: availability, mismatched suit or not
This isn't the most glamorous part of this presentation, but it's the most useful!
Are the costumes sold mismatched? Can I choose a different pants size than the jacket? Can I just buy the pants or jacket?
Yes, it is entirely possible to buy the jacket only or the pants only, both are sold separately.
For example, if you only want the jacket, that's possible.
It is especially very useful if you have a pants size different from your jacket size : if you are a size 48 in a jacket and a 50 in a pants, you can therefore buy two different sizes together.
And FYI, today's suit trend features fairly short suit jackets.
For a rather short suit jacket (= which corresponds to the length of a blazer), you can wear it mismatched, taking care to take into account the often more formal character of the jacket (material, details, finishes).
Some outfit ideas...
If you've been reading us for a long time, you know that with a suit, we wear a white shirt or a pale blue shirt , and rarely other colors (but we can have fun like crazy with textures and materials):
And we start with our imperial Florian, for whom the shape of the jacket suits perfectly! Complementing a navy suit with a white shirt and brown shoes is a safe bet. Since the base is very neutral, it's time to have a little fun with the accessories. ( BonneGueule shirt , Howard's x BonneGueule tie in jacquard silk , PochetteSquare clutch, belt from a Venetian artisan and Septième Width derby)
Just once, Alexandre swapped his chinos too big “loose” for the suit. What you need to remember here is that the pine green tie is totally (and unfairly) underestimated in suits with shades of blue. For me, it's an essential color when you have a small set of ties. Note the elongated shape of her shoes, particularly fine and elegant. (Hast Premium shirt, Howard's tie in green cashmere , BonneGueule derby - boutique exclusive)
Can you wear a pale blue shirt with a heather blue suit and a blue tie as well? Yes, provided you choose very different shades. The “speckle” of the costume also has the advantage of bringing variety and avoiding an overly monochrome effect. (Dany Berd shirt, Husbands tie, L’Aiglon belt, Jean-Baptiste Rautureau boots)
We are in the presence of three blue pieces but neither the shades nor the textures are too close. It is precisely these contrasts that will guarantee the finesse of your look. If your shirt is patterned, choose a textured tie or, like here, one with patterns in different shapes and sizes.
I've often thought of charcoal gray as a bit of a stark color, but the subtly blended Prince of Wales counterbalances that. I'm opting for a pair of blue patina shoes for originality: it's entirely possible with a gray suit, which will tolerate all the colors on the other items. (MELINDAGLOSS shirt, Howard's tie, Aubercy patinated derby because I wanted dark shoes without being black)
I love how the Prince of Wales pattern reveals itself as you get closer. And I create a reminder of the derby through the tie, also blue. The colors are more formal but the Prince of Wales, Howard's Vitale Barberis wool tie and shoes keep the outfit from being bland.
Do you know the pincollar (or collar pin)? In fact, the collar is crossed on both sides by a pin on which the tie knot rests, in order to be highlighted by a rounded effect. Having quite a few simple and formal shirts in my wardrobe, I wanted to try something a little more fun and, when Fred from Howard's introduced me to his new shirts (great Q/A ratio), I wanted to try. This guy intrigued me, especially since I find the rendering of pinheads really interesting (and different from what we're used to seeing). Even James Bond got into it in Spectre! This is a royal oxford model from Howard's, don't hesitate to read the Parisian Gentleman article dedicated to it. We can also see the pretty discreet chevron of the cashmere tie 😉
But with a shirt with a more classic collar, and a white pocket square for a touch of light on the blazer, it works just as well! Note that here again, the green tie fits in without any problem ( BonneGueule Oxford shirt , Howard's tie, Very Good Lord pocket square). And we can clearly see the Milanese!
Without forgetting the shirt sleeve which extends slightly beyond that of the blazer and the bracelets (from the Catherine Michiels brand) for a nod to Italian style 😉
And a photo of the costume with the gray coat. As you see, everything is going well!
It was important to us that you could mismatch the two elements of the costume. The dominant piece is clearly the brick double-breasted blazer, for which the navy blue pants provide a simple base on which to graft. This is further proof of the power of navy to appease strong items. The brown shoes match the blue and are slightly reminiscent of brick; no worries at this level. (Blazer Ly Adams)
The length of the jacket has been designed so that you can also wear it in a more casual way, like Luca with his gray jeans. Going with gray jeans is an easy idea: we stay in the same palette as the jacket, but on an informal piece. The sobriety of these two pieces leaves him free rein when it comes to the shirt, so much so that it is a pink model (yes, pink!) that Luca chooses. To avoid polarizing the whole look, the tie uses shades of gray, while the braided belt accentuates the casual side of the look. (Gutteridge shirt and tie, BonneGueule jeans , SuitSupply belt, Lorenzo derby)
For even more relaxation, ditch the tie and replace the shoes with low-top sneakers. A white pair is often the best alternative to wear with formal pieces; without ever stealing the spotlight, they will go with almost any color. Sorry, no vintage cameras are planned in the BonneGueule IV Line. ( BonneGueule gray oxford shirt , BonneGueule Japan Line jeans , Adidas sneakers)
100% wool suits with nanotech treatment are now available
You can now order:
- The navy blue suit ( navy blue pants alone / navy blue jacket alone)
- The heather blue suit ( heather blue pants alone / heather blue jacket alone)
