We welcome Ismaïl, a loyal reader who suggested we write about his passion: watches. The floor is his!
If you diligently follow the advice given on BonneGueule, you undoubtedly master the fundamental principles of style. It will not have escaped your notice that accessories are the most effective tools to make an outfit more personal and authentic.
The watch is often a man's most expensive accessory [after his car, editor's note]. However, we must not forget that it is above all a tool whose function is, among other things, to tell the time, therefore serving its wearer and his lifestyle. It is easy to get lost among the plethora of existing watch styles. This guide aims to help you match your watch to your clothing style and lifestyle. With for each category, my selection of three models.
FOR THE URBAN ADVENTURER
If you don’t dress smart on a daily basis, you’re an active man and you want to project the image of an adventurer, opt for a field watch. These military-inspired watches typically have a very readable and colorful dial (black, khaki, blue), discreet finishes (brushed or pearled, rather than polished) and a solidity that can withstand any test. These watches evoke a robustness and a relaxed stylistic approach. Some models will also have a military history that can be an excellent conversation piece.
Like all watches in the Seiko 5 range, this one is one of the least expensive automatic pieces on the market. "Automatic" watches use your body's movements to harvest the energy needed to operate them. They therefore require neither a battery nor manual winding.
With its two concentric index circles and its typical hands of the genre, this model respects all the codes. It is available in several colors including blue, black and khaki green, with matching nylon straps. It can also be a good base to start a collection.
Price: 55 €
HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD MECHANICAL
Produced by the most American of Swiss houses, this piece is faithful to the watch marketed by the brand in 1969. The tinted luminol (the fluorescent product that lights up in the dark) and the triangular indices contribute to giving this watch an old school style whose charm is undeniable. Thanks to its manual winding movement, it also retains a finesse that makes it one of the most pleasant models to wear in the segment.
Price: 420 €
ROLEX EXPLORER
The simplest of Rolex models is perhaps the best of them all. True to the history of the brand with the crown, it is the quintessential tool watch, having first been developed for professionals in high-altitude exploration. It embodies a spirit of adventure, the beauty of engineering and the efficiency of a simple style that has survived the years.
FOR THE SPORTSMAN
Whether you prefer Nike VaporMax or Adidas Ultraboost, if you wear jogging and like to sweat, you are concerned with this category. It would be heresy to wear a watch made of precious metal and a leather strap to go running. And you don't have to have a very trained eye to spot that such a watch does not match a hoodie.
The ideal watch for you should be lightweight, durable and sweat-resistant. Nothing better than plastic to meet these criteria. Traditionally, sports watches had a steel bracelet, but these have evolved with the introduction of the rubber strap. Choose a watch that you feel comfortable with and that you are not afraid to use in extreme conditions.
Also choose quartz models, as mechanical movements (which do not use a battery to operate) can be fragile and heavy, and above all more expensive.
SWATCH RED TRACK
For those on a budget, Swatch always has a quality offering, with an assumed and functional aesthetic. This lightweight, all-plastic watch is a perfect companion with a chronograph to track your performance on the athletics track. If you want to embrace its sporty and playful side, the red model is perfect, but other more discreet options are also on sale.
Price: €105
CASIO G-SHOCK
You will never find a G-Shock at fault. Since the birth of the range in 1983, Casio has made the G-Shock a popular icon and a monster of technology. You will find something for all tastes, from the simplest to the most elaborate, digital or analog, without ever compromising on robustness and sportiness.
Price: from 89 to 1100 €
TAG HEURER CARRERA CALIBER 16
This model inspired by the world of motor racing will fascinate you with the different textures of its dial and the finishes of the case. The perforated rubber strap is also ideal for staying comfortable when you are sweaty.
Price: from €3650
FOR THE SAILOR IN A PEA COAT
If you regularly wear heavy wool coats, chunky knits and dark colours, you can enhance your outfits with a diving watch. Dive watches form a privileged family in the world of watchmaking. Many iconic models come from this group, the membership criteria of which are specified by the ISO 6425 standard:
- Waterproof to a minimum depth of 100m (10Atm) .
- Unidirectional counting bezel.
- Dial readability at 25cm in total darkness.
- Magnetic and shock resistance.
These watches are often thick and their dials have strong contrasts. These characteristics make them not disappear under a thick sleeve and can bring a touch of light to a navy blue outfit.
CASIO MDV-106
This Casio probably has the best value for money for a dive watch. Despite its entry-level price, it has won the hearts of collectors and the wrists of professional divers. It validates all the functional and stylistic criteria that define this segment and it is hard to deny the charm of the swordfish on the dial and caseback.
Price: €60
SEIKO PROSPEX SRP775
Seiko has produced many legends over the years, including the SKX reference models whose origins date back to 1965. The Prospex is one of the brand's most accomplished. With its 44mm diameter tortoise shell case, the Prospex will never go unnoticed. The gold indices and the crown at 4 o'clock give it an appeal that is quite different from all the others. In short, the 41 hours of power reserve and the renowned reliability of Seiko movements make it a safe bet.
Price: €350
ROLEX SEA-DWELLER
Rolex of course produces the legendary Submariner, but the Geneva-based brand’s real diver is the Sea-Dweller. This watch was never worn by James Bond, but its discretion in pop culture is compensated for by its technological prowess. Designed to operate at depths that no amateur diver will explore, it is the archetype of the tool watch. One of the characteristic elements of this model is the helium escape valve, which allows gas to escape during a decompression phase. The current reference, 126600, reintroduces the red text (in homage to the first prototypes of fifty years ago) and is the first to feature the Cyclops that highlights the date function.
Price: from €10,400
FOR CASUAL FRIDAY
For those of you who can get away with a blazer or wool sweater at work, there is also no point in opting for a dress watch. Instead, opt for steel watches that you won't be afraid to wear on a daily basis, but that show the attention you pay to your accessories. The chronograph is one of the most common additional functions (complications), but can demonstrate limitless refinement.
MY THREE PROPOSALS
TISSOT V8 QUARTZ CHRONOGRAPH
Its ivory-coloured dial is inspired by the dashboards of sports cars from a bygone era. This character trait undeniably plays on the current vintage trend, but still gives it a timeless appeal. The green tachymeter bezel adds a touch of panache and originality.
Price: €390
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER
This is the Moonwatch , the only watch officially worn on the moon, still today the only one approved for all NASA manned flights. The elegance of its twisted lugs gives a degree of elegance to an otherwise sober design. The lugs of a watch are the elements at the ends of the case that allow the strap to be attached. They play a decisive role in the homogeneity of the design: spacing of the lugs in relation to the diameter, their length and their shape. You can also wear this watch with all types of straps (metal, Nato leather), which gives it almost unrivaled versatility.
Price: €3500 - this watch is worth exploring the second-hand market
JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER CHRONOGRAPH
Without reaching the point of timepieces costing several tens or even hundreds of thousands of euros, Jaeger-LeCoultre offers here a chronograph that is an entry into the world of fine watchmaking. The sophistication of the sector dial and the hot-blued hands make it a piece that will not go unnoticed. The dial has three shades of finish, the heart displays a silver finish contrasting with the circular satin of the outer part while the opaline white of the counters stands out. The dial is finally energized by the touches of blue, which echo the hands and the alligator strap.
Price: 8300 €
FOR THE STREET STYLE STUDENT
A watch doesn't have to be flashy, ostentatious or complicated. To highlight an urban and simple style, why not opt for an equally minimalist watch. A thin and refined design, simple lines are the pillars of Bauhaus, a stylistic movement that still inspires many watch designs today.
MY THREE PROPOSALS
TIMEX WEEKENDER
Timex is an American brand with a rich history. Today, it only produces entry-level quartz watches, but they are often the subject of real aesthetic research. The model presented in the photo below is all the more interesting because the case is finished in a metal reminiscent of bronze (a recent fashion in the world of watchmaking), and which marries perfectly with the vintage treatment of the dial.
Price: 69 €
CHARLIE
The Charlie brand is a young French house that designs and manufactures its watches in France. If you care about made in France, don't hesitate, especially since the style of these watches is simple and elegant. Special mention for the colors of the leather straps.
Price: 165 €
JUNGHANS MAX BILL HANDLING
Junghans is the reference for Bauhaus style among watchmakers. This model is named after a designer who worked for the brand and studied at the Bauhaus school. A perfect everyday companion, this monochrome watch will go with any outfit.
Price: €650
FOR THE CREATIVE
For those of us with a creative streak, wearing watches in classic styles can sometimes be boring. Fortunately, the offer is as varied as each person's desires. Sometimes you can find models with extravagant shapes and artistic prints. These watches can accompany a sober outfit to express your personality.
SWATCH COLOR STUDIO
The watches in the Swatch Color Studio range are technically simple, inexpensive, but strong in character. Swatch also collaborates with artists (Keith Haring, Pablo Picasso etc.) who use the dials and straps as canvases. These limited editions are highly sought after by collectors and can be purchased second-hand on e-bay.
Price: 75 €
SWATCH SYSTEM 51
If you prefer mechanical movements to quartz, Swatch has developed a revolutionary movement. Swiss made, this automatic movement of only 51 elements (hence the name) will never require servicing.
Price: 140€
A PERSONALIZED WATCH
There are many ways to get a personalized watch: eBay has a plethora of spare parts that you can use to customize your watch.
If you have a steady hand and some basic notions of watchmaking you can create a watch to your taste. In particular, the Seiko models (SKX and Five) are excellent bases, with an extremely wide after-market offer. The easiest way to personalize your watch is to change the strap: a Nato, Perlon or ostrich leather strap will completely change the personality of the object.
FOR THE WORKING BOY
Let's be clear, the ideal watch to accompany a well-cut suit is a dress watch. This segment of watches meets certain criteria:
- A thin case: to slide under the sleeve of your shirt, try not to exceed 10 mm in thickness.
- A discreet diameter: a dress watch must be comfortable and discreet, avoid exceeding a diameter of 40 mm, 38 mm being suitable for most wrists. You will see these measurements increase if you have the physique of Shaquille O'Neal.
- A simple dial: typically with two or three hands, you can check the time on your wrist discreetly during a meeting.
- A leather bracelet: a beautiful crocodile leather will always be more elegant than any metal bracelet.
It should be kept in mind that, by nature, watches in this category are more sophisticated in their design, we will see here decorated movements and subtle textures. This therefore generates prices higher than the average.
ORIENT BAMBINO
It has become a legend among enthusiasts for the quality of its design, the reliability of its Japanese movement and its price that decimates all the competition. It defies by its quality of finish and its aesthetics watches whose price is sometimes ten times higher. If you choose this option, I recommend however that you invest in a new leather strap, the one accompanying the watch being of questionable quality to keep the price as low as possible.
Price: from 150 to 300 €
CARTIER TANK LOUIS CARTIER OR SOLO
Despite its atypical lines, it is difficult to find a watch as classic as the Tank de Cartier. Inspired by the Renault tanks (hence the name) for an American general, it has been worn by the greatest: Rudolph Valentino, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Gary Cooper and Andy Warhol. Its elegance has made the success of the Cartier house since 1917, and will continue to do so for a long time to come.
Price: from €2430 (for the quartz version)
PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA REFERENCE 5116 OR 5119
Patek is one of the Big Three , the three legendary houses along with Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. In their own words, the Calatrava is “the quintessence of the round wristwatch”. It must be said that with its “clous de paris” bezel, its Roman numerals on a lacquered or genuine enamel dial and its small seconds, it exudes elegance and class. Nothing else to say about this work of art, except that its insides are as graceful as its exterior.
Price: from €17,900 (including branded cufflinks).
THE FINAL WORD...
This article is a draft of a practical guide that is in no way an exhaustive list of all possible lifestyles or watches. I invite you to keep in mind that when it comes to style, intuition and personal tastes should take precedence over a whole set of rules. The comments section of this article is, I hope, a space that will allow you to share your ideas and inspirations with the BonneGueule community of readers.
