We welcome Ismaïl, a loyal reader who suggested that we write about his passion: watches. The floor is his!
If you diligently follow the advice given on BonneGueule, you have undoubtedly mastered the fundamental principles of style. It will not have escaped you that accessories are the most effective tools for making an outfit more personal and authentic.
The watch is often a man's most expensive accessory [after his car, Editor's note]. However, we must not forget that it is above all a tool whose function is, among other things, to tell the time, therefore serving its wearer and their way of life. It's easy to get lost among the plethora of watch styles out there. This guide aims to help you match your watch to your clothing style and your lifestyle. With for each category, my selection of three models.
FOR THE URBAN ADVENTURER
If you don't dress smart on a daily basis, you are an active man and you want to project the image of an adventurer, opt for a field watch. These military-inspired watches typically have a very readable and colorful dial (black, khaki, blue), discreet finishes (brushed or pearled, rather than polished) and foolproof solidity. These watches evoke ruggedness and a relaxed stylistic approach. Some models will also have a military history which can be a great conversation starter.
Like all watches in the Seiko 5 range, this is one of the cheapest automatic pieces on the market. "Automatics" use your body's movements to harvest the energy necessary for their operation. They therefore do not require batteries or manual winding.
With its two concentric index circles and its hands typical of the genre, this model respects all the codes. It is available in several colors including blue, black and khaki green, with matching nylon straps. It can also be a good basis for starting a collection.
Price: €55
HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD MECHANICAL
Produced by the most American of Swiss houses, this piece is faithful to the watch marketed by the brand in 1969. The tinted luminol (the fluorescent product which lights up in the dark) and the triangular indices help to give this watch a style old school whose charm is undeniable. Thanks to its manual winding movement, it also maintains a finesse which makes it one of the most pleasant models to wear in the segment.
Price: €420
ROLEX EXPLORE
The simplest Rolex model is perhaps the best of them. Faithful to the history of the crown brand, it is the quintessence of the tool watch, having first been developed for professionals in high mountain exploration. It embodies a spirit of adventure, the beauty of engineering and the efficiency of a simple style that has survived the years.
FOR THE ATHLETE
Whether you prefer the Nike VaporMax or the Adidas Ultraboost, if you wear jogging and like to sweat, you are concerned by this category. It would be heresy to wear a precious metal watch with a leather strap to go running. And it doesn't take a very trained eye to spot that such a watch doesn't go well with a hoodie.
The ideal watch for you should be light, sturdy and resistant to sweat. Nothing better than plastic to meet these criteria. Traditionally, sports watches came with a steel bracelet, but these have evolved with the introduction of the rubber strap. Choose a watch that you feel comfortable with and that you are not afraid to use in extreme conditions.
Also choose quartz models, as mechanical movements (which do not use a battery to operate) can be fragile and heavy, and above all more expensive.
SWATCH RED TRACK
For small budgets, Swatch always has a quality offer, with an assured and functional aesthetic. This lightweight, all-plastic watch is a perfect companion with the added benefit of a chronograph to track your performance on the athletics track. If you want to embrace its sporty and playful side, the red model is perfect, but other more discreet options are also on sale.
Price: €105
CASIO G-SHOCK
You will never fault a G-Shock. Since the birth of the range in 1983, Casio has made the G-Shock a popular icon and a technological monster. You will find something for all tastes, from the simplest to the most elaborate, digital or analog, without ever compromising on robustness and sportiness.
Price: from 89 to 1100 €
TAG HEURER CARRERA CALIBER 16
This model inspired by the world of motor racing will fascinate you with the different textures of its dial and the finishes of the case. The perforated rubber strap is also great for staying comfortable when you're sweaty.
Price: from €3,650
FOR THE SAILOR IN A CABAN
If you regularly wear heavy wool coats, chunky knits and dark colors, you can enhance your outfits with a dive watch. Dive watches form a privileged family in the world of watchmaking. Many iconic models come from this group whose membership criteria are specified by the ISO 6425 standard:
- Waterproofing up to a depth
minimum of 100m (10Atm) . - Unidirectional counting bezel.
- Readability of the dial at 25cm in total darkness.
- Magnetic and shock resistance.
These watches are often thick and their dials have strong contrasts. These characteristics mean that they do not disappear under a thick sleeve and can add a touch of light to a navy blue outfit.
CASIO MDV-106
This Casio probably has the best quality/price ratio for a dive watch. Despite its entry-level price, it has won the hearts of collectors and the wrists of professional divers. It validates all the functional and stylistic criteria that define this segment and it is difficult to deny the charm of the swordfish on the dial and on the case back.
Price: €60
SEIKO PROSPEX SRP775
Seiko has produced many legends over the years, notably the SKX reference models which date back to 1965. The Prospex is one of the brand's most accomplished. With its 44mm diameter turtle shell case, the Prospex will never go unnoticed. The golden indices and the crown at 4 o'clock give it an appeal very different from all the others. In short, the 41 hours of power reserve and the recognized reliability of Seiko movements make them a safe value.
Price: €350
ROLEX SEA-DWELLER
Rolex of course produces the legendary Submariner, but the real diver from the Genevan house is the Sea-Dweller. This watch was never worn by James Bond, but its discretion in pop culture is offset by its technological prowess. Designed to operate at depths that no amateur diver will explore, it is the archetype of the tool watch. One of the characteristic elements of this model is the helium escape valve, which allows gas to escape during a decompression phase. The current reference, 126600, reintroduces the red text (in homage to the first prototypes of fifty years ago) and is the first to feature the Cyclops which highlights the date function.
Price: from €10,400
FOR CASUAL FRIDAY
For those of you who can get away with a blazer or wool sweater at work, there's also no point in opting for a dress watch. Instead, choose steel watches that you won't be afraid to wear every day, but which show the attention you pay to your accessories. The chronograph is one of the most common additional functions (complications), but can demonstrate limitless refinement.
MY THREE PROPOSALS
TISSOT V8 QUARTZ CHRONOGRAPH
Its ivory-colored dial is inspired by sports car dashboards from a bygone era. This character trait undeniably plays on the current vintage trend, but still gives it a timeless appeal. The green tachymeter bezel adds a touch of panache and originality.
Price: €390
OMEGA SPEEDMASTER
This is the Moonwatch , the only watch officially worn on the moon, still today the only one to be approved for all of NASA 's manned flights. The elegance of its lyre horns ( twisted lugs in English) gives a degree of elegance to an otherwise sober design. The lugs of a watch are the elements at the ends of the case which allow the bracelet to be attached. They play a decisive role in the homogeneity of the design: spacing of the horns in relation to the diameter, their length and their shape. You can also wear this watch with all types of bracelets (metal, Nato leather), which gives it almost unrivaled versatility.
Price: €3500 – this watch is worth exploring the second-hand market
JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER CHRONOGRAPH
Without arriving at timepieces costing several tens or even hundreds of thousands of euros, Jaeger-LeCoultre offers here a chronograph which is an entry into the world of fine watchmaking. The sophistication of the sector dial and the hot-blued hands make it a piece that will not go unnoticed. The dial has three shades of finish, the heart displays a silver finish contrasting with the circular satin finish of the exterior part while the opaline white of the counters stands out. The dial is finally energized by the touches of blue, which echo the hands and the alligator strap.
Price: €8300
FOR THE STREET STYLE STUDENT
A watch doesn't have to be flashy, ostentatious or complicated. To highlight an urban and simple style, why not opt for an equally minimalist watch. A fine, refined design and simple lines are the pillars of Bauhaus, a stylistic movement which still inspires many watch designs today.
MY THREE PROPOSALS
TIMEX WEEKENDER
Timex is an American brand with a rich history. Today, it only produces entry-level quartz watches, which are often the subject of real aesthetic research. The model presented in the photo below is all the more interesting as the case is finished in a metal reminiscent of bronze (a recent fashion in the world of watchmaking), and which blends perfectly with the vintage treatment of the dial.
Price: €69
CHARLIE
The Charlie brand is a young French house which designs and manufactures its watches in France. If made in France is important to you, don't hesitate any longer, especially since the style of these watches is as simple and elegant as possible. Special mention for the colors of the leather straps.
Price: €165
JUNGHANS MAX BILL HANDAUFZUG
Junghans is the reference of the Bauhaus style among watchmakers. This model also bears the name of a designer, having worked for the brand, who studied at the Bauhaus school. The perfect everyday companion, this monochrome watch will pair with any outfit.
Price: €650
FOR THE CREATIVE
For those of us with a creative streak, it can sometimes be boring to wear watches with classic styles. Fortunately, the offer is as varied as everyone's desires. We sometimes find models with extravagant shapes and artistic prints. These watches can accompany a sober outfit to express your personality.
SWATCH COLOR STUDIO
The watches in the Color studio range from Swatch are technically simple, inexpensive, but strong in character. Swatch also collaborates with artists (Keith Haring, Pablo Picasso etc.) who use dials and bracelets as canvases. These limited editions are highly sought after by collectors and can be purchased second-hand on e-bay.
Price: €75
SWATCH SYSTEM 51
If you prefer mechanical movements to quartz, Swatch has developed a revolutionary movement. Swiss made, this automatic movement of only 51 elements (hence the name) will never require servicing.
Price: 140€
A PERSONALIZED WATCH
There are many ways to have a personalized watch: there are a multitude of spare parts on eBay that you can use to customize your watch.
If you have a steady hand and a few basic notions of watchmaking you will be able to create a watch to your liking. In particular the Seiko models (SKX and Five) are excellent bases, with an extremely wide after market offer. The simplest way to personalize your watch is to change the strap: a Nato, Perlon or ostrich leather strap will completely change the personality of the object.
FOR THE WORKING BOY
Let it be said, the ideal watch to accompany a well-cut suit is a dress watch. This segment of watches meets certain criteria:
- A thin case: to slip under your shirt sleeve, try not to exceed 10 mm in thickness.
- A discreet diameter: a dress watch must be comfortable and discreet, avoid exceeding a diameter of 40 mm, 38 mm being suitable for most wrists. You'll see these measurements rise again if you have Shaquille O'Neal's physique.
- A simple dial: typically with two or three hands, you can watch the time on your wrist discreetly during a meeting.
- A leather bracelet: beautiful crocodile leather will always be more elegant than any metal bracelet.
It is important to keep in mind that, by nature, watches in this category are more sophisticated in their design; here we will see decorated movements and subtle play on textures. This therefore generates prices above average.
ORIENTAL BAMBINO
It has become a legend among enthusiasts for the quality of its design, the reliability of its Japanese movement and its price which decimates all the competition. Its quality of finish and aesthetics challenge watches whose price is sometimes ten times higher. If you choose this option, however, I recommend that you invest in a new leather strap, the one accompanying the watch being of questionable quality to keep the price low.
Price: from 150 to 300 €
CARTIER TANK LOUIS CARTIER OR SOLO
Despite its atypical lines, it is difficult to find a watch as classic as the Tank de Cartier. Inspired by Renault tanks (hence the name) for an American general, it was worn by the greatest: Rudolph Valentino, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Gary Cooper and even Andy Warhol. Its elegance has been the success of the Cartier house since 1917, and for a long time to come.
Price: from €2430 (for the quartz version)
PATEK PHILIPPE CALATRAVA REFERENCE 5116 OR 5119
Patek is part of the Big Three , the three legendary houses with Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet. In their own words, the Calatrava is “the quintessence of the round wristwatch”. It must be said that with its “clous de paris” bezel, its Roman numerals on a lacquered or real enamel dial and its small seconds, it exudes elegance and class. Nothing else to say about this work of art, except that its insides are as graceful as its exterior.
Price: from €17,900 (including cufflinks bearing the brand's image).
THE FINAL WORD...
This article is a draft practical guide which in no way provides an exhaustive overview of all possible lifestyles or watches. I invite you to keep in mind that when it comes to style, intuition and personal taste should take precedence over a whole set of rules. The comments section of this article is, I hope, a space that will allow you to share your ideas and inspirations with the community of BonneGueule readers.
