I've been thinking about tackling this subject for some time.
For the past year or two, when the weather is nice, I have rediscovered a pleasure that I had completely forgotten over the years: wearing knitwear next to my skin.
It is a practice full of nonchalance, which, I think, deserves to be more widespread.
Well, I'm about to explain it to you. And this, in three points.
1. For those times when the weather is nice, but not really hot
If you are Parisian, like me, and you are not lucky enough to live in the sunny south of our French territory, you will undoubtedly have noticed that every year, summer is a little treacherous: when the month of May is coming to an end, we always remember the heatwave moments of past years, and we prepare for them with zeal, by equipping ourselves with lots of shorts, shirts, and light t-shirts.
But we often forget the days, or even entire weeks, when the weather was more changeable: 18° that morning, 22° that evening, 24° that afternoon, even though it was so bright.
And as we've seen in recent weeks, this could very well happen in the middle of July.
July, yes gentlemen, July, while we were preparing our Bermuda shorts and our linen T-shirts. Isn't that annoying? Isn't it disappointing to have to take out your little jacket from May? I accuse the weather of being sneaky, and I would almost become a climate skeptic, of course!
Especially since if the figures indicated by the mercury can be the same as on a beautiful spring day, the feeling is not necessarily the same. Because it will vary depending on your exposure: thus, during a clearing, these timid 20° degrees announced can quickly transform into a good 25°, a little oppressive, which slaps you mischievously on the back.
The subject of temperature changes is also covered by Benoît in this Let's Talk About Clothes .
Imagine that I learned, two years ago, that it was called "Indian summer".
But it is precisely in these moments that wearing a light, airy knit, in summer fibers shines.
Typically, a good summer sweater is a little warmer than a well-fitted mid-season t-shirt, but will be even more breathable, thanks to the choice of fibers incorporating linen, cotton, or even ramie for example. example. And thanks to its knitting, which will be either finer or more airy. In fact, if the weight is light enough, even merino or cashmere can be suitable.
But far be it from me to let you think that this is a technique reserved for city dwellers who struggle with a capricious summer (or for Indians)... Far from it!
When the weather is nice but windy at the sea or in the mountains, knitwear next to the skin is also very useful.
As for the French from the South who read me... You just have to assume that everything I just said about our summer probably applies to your spring. Lucky guys!
2. For a fall that hugs the body
But if it were only a matter of temperature, wearing mesh next to the skin would remain, at most, an anecdote, a banal possibility among others, rather than a preferred choice.
However, I would like us to notice not only its thermal qualities, but also its little aesthetic plus: wearing the mesh next to the skin gives an air of absolute relaxation, an appearance of palpable nonchalance , but which we cannot achieve. not always to be identified.
Quite simply because the stitch falls with greater fluidity.
It's not for nothing that brand shoots use and abuse it to emphasize the drape of their fine knits.
The ideal cut for this is a fitted cut in places, but above all not tight .
The large, thick winter knit can be chosen tight because it has no drape in any case: so it should follow the wearer's body directly, otherwise it would risk "erasing" it.
Worn next to the skin, the lightweight knit should drape around your body rather than sticking to it. Its fluidity, its movement, are enough to suggest the silhouette without having to show it.
My way of doing it: in light, high-waisted pants, rolling the sleeves up to the elbow, to accentuate the relaxed spirit and enjoy the fresh air on my forearms.
But this potential advantage is also the cause of its possible disadvantages, which explain the rarity of this use: under a fine knit with fairly loose knitting, it is not impossible that we can see, on the one hand, your curves , your thinness, or any other trait that you prefer to hide throughout the year.
And on the other hand, it is possible that we can also see... your nipples.
Forgive my dramatic punctuation, these ellipsis is intended to be a bit ironic. Because I know how opinions differ on this subject.
It's a bit like sandals in town, very slim pants, or tank tops, ankles exposed under slightly short pants... In short, everything that concerns the body and its visibility: reactions take place sometimes visceral and merciless in their judgment.
Some will be panicked at the idea that we can guess, even imperceptibly, the presence of this distinctive sign of their belonging to the group of mammals.
Concerning me, it is not so much a demand as a real indifference. But to tell the truth, it is also a question of ease and modesty, and on these questions, everyone sees noon at their door... And that is very good.
It would, in my opinion, be inappropriate to make injunctions to hide, or on the contrary, to reveal oneself.
However, we will easily understand why this practice is much more represented, in real life as on brand shoots, by thin young men, with rarely hairy chests.
If you are hesitant, I insist again on the necessary vigilance when choosing the cut, which, I repeat, will be chosen more carefully than that of your thicker winter knits.
The aesthetic aspect of the thing having been treated, I would like to conclude on what is, in my opinion, the greatest advantage of knitwear even on the skin, the feeling.
3. For a unique feeling
As for clothes, I'm still waiting to find something more pleasant than wearing a knit next to the skin.
Do you see that feeling we have when we walk around in a bathrobe, coming out of the shower? At the same time enveloped, protected, but free to breathe?
Well I would say that wearing knitwear next to the skin is a bit like going out in a bathrobe all day. With the difference that you do not risk going into police custody for indecent exposure, which is preferable, you will agree.
More seriously, this feeling can be explained by three things:
- First, when you wear a t-shirt or shirt under knitwear, your movements are restricted by the friction and tension generated between these two pieces. The fit won't be exactly the same, the mechanical properties aren't the same, and when you move all of these tiny factors add up to give you a slight bulky feeling. This feeling, to which we are accustomed throughout the year, disappears when you put on your knitwear without anything underneath. And is replaced by a feeling of freedom of movement.
- Secondly, unlike a short-sleeved t-shirt, long knitted sleeves give you the feeling of being covered, bundled up, in short... protected. We feel good there, while our bare arms under a t-shirt are exposed to the wind, to the outside world.
- And thirdly, the width necessary for wearing next to the skin reinforces this feeling of freedom. It's a bit like when you sleep under your sheets: again, you are covered, but not "covered".
Reading this again, I have the impression that these subtle variations will seem completely trivial to you, and yet, I can only encourage you to experience them, and notice the difference at the end of a day.
Ultimately, there's just one problem with this practice: if you try it, and get past the initial reluctance I outlined above, you might get a taste for it. However, once the cooler days return, you will have the greatest difficulty agreeing to put a t-shirt under your sweater, losing both this visual drape and this feeling of freedom of movement.
Therefore, I already have the idea of another post, for another occasion: "How to find the advantages of summer knitwear next to the skin... even in winter?"
Until then, enjoy the season, and don't hesitate to tell me which knit you prefer to wear next to the skin.
BONUS: Practical advice on summer knitwear
- As mentioned earlier, choosing the right raw materials is central to having a sufficiently breathable knit. Therefore, favor blends containing a significant proportion of flax . I advise you to read this little “Linen Guide” to understand the properties of this material.
- You can consider hemp or ramie to have very similar properties to linen . The advice for these fibers is the same.
- Cotton is an acceptable choice, especially in a blend with linen (or similar fibers), but 100% or almost cotton knits absorb too much perspiration , and have more limited aesthetic interest.
- These summer stitches will tend to relax more strongly and quickly than your usual stitches. On the one hand because of these fibers, which are less elastic, and on the other because of the knitting of the mesh, often looser for light meshes. However, a quick spin in a cold machine, on a delicate program, will restore their original appearance. (And that’s good for hygiene, since you wear them next to your skin anyway.)
- Although you should not choose these summer knits that are too fitted, it is not necessarily useful to go for a size larger than your usual size. Sometimes, brands adapt the cuts so that the same size has a more “loose” fit. But often, the simple difference in fibers and knitting takes care of this by itself, via relaxation: the same measurement taken flat will give a looser result when worn.
- The brands producing summer knits are the same as the brands producing... knitwear in short . Take a look here to see our recommendations. Personally, however, I would say that in this specific niche, Inis Meain is unbeatable, if your budget allows it. For a more reasonable budget but good quality, NN07 produces almost every Spring-Summer a few well-made linen or cotton linen models.