Try… the unstructured blazer – #4/4

Cover credit: Drake's lookbook

After the green shirt , the dress pants and the casual sleeveless vest, we end this series of articles on clothes to try by tackling the blazer.

But not just any one. We are talking here about jackets which take the shape of a blazer, but which do not have all the characteristics or all the components.

We're going to talk about unstructured blazers.

What is an unstructured blazer?

In a blazer , you don't just have the exterior matter.

We can first mention the lining, visible and which has two main roles: to ensure good glide when putting on the jacket and to hide the interior finishes by covering them.

You then have in the jacket, invisible to the naked eye, several elements depending on its construction: iron-on, a bib, a tailored canvas as well as at the shoulder level, padding .

Here are the three different classic constructions you'll find in a blazer.

These internal elements structure the jacket : they stiffen it and ensure it sits cleanly on the wearer's body.

We obtain an unstructured jacket by reducing or eliminating certain of its elements:

• By only lining part of the jacket or even not lining it at all
• By using a very thin iron-on, tailoring cloth or bib or even removing them completely
• By reducing or even eliminating shoulder padding

By removing this structure, the jacket will become more flexible, softer.

This is why an unstructured jacket has a more relaxed appearance.

In this video I show a De Bonne Facture jacket without any interfacing or shoulder padding. No rigid part prevents us from taking the shoulder of the garment in our hand.

Why wear an unstructured blazer?

The answer is quite simple: it is this type of blazer that goes best with casual, everyday clothing such as jeans, chinos, t-shirts or sneakers.

Very formal blazers with casual pants and sneakers don't always work very well .

Remember what Jordan says in the second episode of our Gimmick series:

“To wear two pieces with different levels of formality, you have to pull the formal piece towards casual and the casual piece towards formal .”

Here, we therefore take the blazer towards a more casual register.

The different types of unstructured blazers

Not all unstructured blazers are equal, nor are they alike.

1. Blazers with light structure

These are completely classic blazers but with light shoulder, iron-on, bib and light tailored canvas.

This type of jacket is often semi or unlined to achieve this spirit of lightness.

Depending on the fabric chosen, we are looking at slightly dressy jackets.

BonneGueule blazers fall into this category for example.

On our gray jacket in airy Loro Piana fabric, we even chose not to line it at all.

2. Blazers without structure

A little rarer but just as interesting: completely unstructured jackets

The garment retains the shape of the blazer well, but inside there is no lining, iron-on, tailored fabric or bib.

The jacket is soft and falls quite fluidly.

These are therefore jackets, which sometimes go with pants to form a suit. The whole thing can be quite elegant but not very formal.

Here is the description of this Officine Générale jacket: "No construction, no canvas, no interlining, the feel of an overshirt and the fall of a jacket."

3. Blazers... which aren't really blazers

We are talking here about jackets that only have a blazer shape.

Everything else moves away from it: we remove the buttonholes, we put on a material that would have its place on another type of jacket, we add pockets or seams, etc.

To speak in images, I am thinking for example of what Nigel Cabourn suggests:

So yes, it's technically a blazer. But other than the overall shape, there's not much to like about this garment.

It's a garment that I find quite interesting because here we arrive in the type of jacket which is completely designed to be worn in casual looks: with cargo, sneakers, a sweatshirt, etc.

4. The knitted blazer

A special case but which has its place here.

It involves knitting a garment (like a sweater) by giving it the shape of a blazer.

It is a very casual garment, quite unique in its kind and far from being devoid of stylistic interest.

Here's what I'm talking about. We're getting closer to a cardigan shape. Massimo Dutti jacket

In addition to Massimo Dutti, I have already seen jackets like this at Charles Tyrwhitt , Pini Parma and Suitsupply .

Ideas for wearing it

With these inspirations, I want to show you very relaxed visions of the blazer: no tie or brogue here but rather sneakers, shirts, jeans, chinos.

1. Keep it simple but good

A simple set in its construction but with perfect cuts, a perfectly mastered color palette (blue/green/brown) and small touches of stylistic differentiation:

• A soft jacket with a houndstooth pattern
• Brown suede leather moccasins
• A denim shirt with an officer collar

2. Japanese relaxation

The blazer + shorts combo doesn't always work . Far from it even.

Here, it's very consistent because the jacket is very casual.

We can clearly see that it is light and soft: you can even roll up the sleeves. It fits more like an overshirt or cardigan than a traditional blazer.

For the rest, it's simple and well done: a white t-shirt, a bandana, beige chinos.

The choice of shoes is particular: they can easily be replaced by sneakers, moccasins, boats, espadrilles, sandals , etc.

3. Italian relaxation

I found this look very interesting with a brown honeycomb knitted jacket .

It is worn over a heather gray shirt , very neutral, and white pants, a little more flashy.

Taupe-colored sneakers in suede leather reminiscent of the jacket.

The silhouette is very "cool" despite being made up of a shirt and a jacket/blazer.

4. Heritage Streetwear

Boras has made this Kestin jacket his own with well-washed straight jeans, a long-sleeved camp collar shirt and suede leather moccasins.

With a good pair of Yuketen or Visvim , it would surely have worked too.

The jacket is part of a suit . It is in fine striped velvet. He made other visuals of this jacket which you can find here .

This is again an unstructured, light jacket in a fabric that could easily be used over an overshirt .

5. The Bedford from across the Atlantic

We welcomed François, a reader, to our columns, who presented us with a gem : the Bedford jacket from Engineered Garments .

It is a 3-button blazer, with 3 patch pockets and peak lapels.

But it's not a formal jacket at all : there is no structure in the jacket and the outer material is light and printed on this model.

With such a casual jacket, you can do things that wouldn't necessarily happen with a more formal and structured jacket, like rolling up the sleeves for example.

Or wear a shirt outside of your pants.

Here it works. And quite good indeed!

Brand selection

1. Entry level

Uniqlo : classic wool blazers at €149 are slightly structured. The brand offers other models (in cotton, cotton/linen) that are completely unstructured.

Massimo Dutti : the Spanish brand is doing decently on entry-level blazers. Each season you will find slightly creative and rather deconstructed jackets.

Silbon : the purpose and price range is very similar to Massimo Dutti. Silbon is another good option in this price range.

2. Mid-range

Suitsupply : an option for dressier blazers. Some models are completely unstructured like the models in the “Traveller” range.

Officine Générale : the “Lightest” jackets are completely unstructured. The 375 jackets are slightly.

Nigel Cabourn : Nigel Cabourn offers blazers with a more workwear feel in his Lybro range.

Cadot : the French brand offers quite a few unlined blazers, whether in the main collection or in end of stock. It is interesting to point out that you will find unstructured jackets at Cadot but in fairly thick wools.

Universal Works : beautiful sleeveless vests from the English brand... and beautiful unstructured jackets too.

Oliver Spencer : another English brand. Other unstructured blazers, more high-end and worked than Universal Works.

(L'Egoïste) Paris : a nice choice of unstructured jackets (tweed, camouflage print, velvet, tartan, etc.) from the French brand.

3. High-end

MAN 1924: the Kennedy Jacket, available each season in numerous models, is a very nice option for a lightly dressed, creative and unstructured jacket.

Engineered Garments : As shown above, look at the Bedford Jacket. It exists in many colors and materials.

Massimo Alba : high-end Italian brand, quite casual. To have had a jacket from the brand in my hands: it's beautiful.

Barena Venezia : chill, quality, Italian-style locker room.

De Bonne Facture : the brand offers casual jackets in pretty materials every season. French made.

Drake's : taste and accuracy on the English brand's jackets.