Finally ! After many pitfalls due to Covid-19, we are very proud to present to you this collaboration with Kestin which we wanted to keep in the greatest secret.
Working with Kestin, such an experienced and respected designer, was an incredible experience for me, and it is an honor for BonneGueule to collaborate with this brand.
To summarize, this is what we will see together:
- it's a collaboration with Kestin, a Scottish brand, with a "contemporary workwear" style
- It’s a 100% organic cotton parka in Ventile
- it is made in the UK
- there is a removable liner to wear it all year round
See you at the end of the article for details regarding shipping times!
A parka made for all year round!
As Kestin says:
Together, we have created a parka of the highest quality, that is timeless and will only get better with time.
Kestin himself who wears our parka.
Organic cotton, made in UK, Ventile, Scotland, the schedule is busy, but first of all, let's see how I was able to meet Kestin.
The meeting with Kestin… thanks to a reader!
It all starts in spring 2019…
One day, I received an email from Ewen, a BonneGueule reader. He tells me that he works for a Scottish brand, that they are present at a trade show in Paris and that I need to meet the designer, because we are on the same wavelength.
And you guessed it, it was Kestin.
Kestin has a really unique style.
I already knew the brand before, but here I was really able to appreciate and go into detail about what makes Kestin's collections so unique: this vintage/contemporary workwear spirit.
Kestin is a very, very, very cool guy.
I feel this same wavelength that I had with Mattia from ABCL or the Norwegian Rain team. Besides, Mattia and Kestin know each other a little from meeting at trade shows!
It perfectly illustrates our motto “Clothes and Men”…
He presents his collection to me in detail, and his use of Japanese materials or more technical fabrics speaks to me a lot, we have very similar tastes. Workwear, vintage, military, outdoor are his influences.
The common point ? Functional, practical clothing, with a well-thought-out design thanks to Kestin's experience.
We are talking about a possible collaboration, and it is clear that we must meet again with our teams.
Julien and I decide to go to Edinburgh a few months later, to immerse ourselves in the world of Kestin.
The world of Kestin in Edinburgh
This is my favorite part of a collaboration: meeting the creator in their place of life and work. And in the case of Kestin, I was not disappointed!
We arrive at their flagship, which is a boutique on the Edinburgh docks. The brand's office is right behind the store, and they're not alone. They are located in a creative hub that brings together photographers, designers, small marketing agencies, etc. It’s an environment where I feel a real creative buzz.
The Kestin store, with the offices behind.
I would later learn that this place has a name, Custom Lane , and it was Kestin who developed it with a friend.
We meet Gemma, his partner who manages the brand's image, as adorable as him (and she has a great workwear style for women).
As for the store, it perfectly represents their motto "Subtle, but distinctive", with a refined decoration, and a few elements which give personality to this place. Exactly like the house where Kestin and Gemma live , where they don't want a decoration that is too precious, but rather one that tells a real story.
Then we take the time to settle down and discover Kestin's influences.
“Subtle, but distinctive”
He shows me a caving jacket from the 70s, with a cut at the shoulder that particularly interests him. A Gore-Tex mountaineering jacket from the 80s. Or even military clothing from the Second World War.
I also have the opportunity to discover his complete collection, and I am impressed by the maturity of his creative vision, everything is impeccably coherent. In terms of color, there are a lot of shades such as mustard and rust, but also pastel blues, khaki, sand or olive.
We feel that Kestin is a very experienced designer. But besides, where does this experience in men's clothing come from?
A good overview of the colors used by Kestin in his store.
Kestin and his journey
As you know, before talking about clothes, I like to know more about the man behind it, and even more so when the designer in question is very humble and has his feet on the ground.
So, in Kestin's case, let's start at the very beginning, during his childhood...
Kestin child who discovers style
His first influences, in terms of style, are… his father and his grandfather!
Indeed, his father was an architect and a very good designer, it was he who gave Kestin a taste for drawing and creation.
With him, he goes fly fishing, and he appreciates outings in the fresh air more than anything, hence his future taste for clothes that can be worn every day, whether for a walk in the edge of a forest or at the edge of a beach.
As for his grandfather, his name is Bill Hare, he was a former Royal Air Force pilot, and Kestin was fascinated by his adventures in Rhodesia… and his military uniform.
It is also this famous RAF jacket which will give birth to one of the very first pieces that Kestin will manufacture.
As Kestin says, his grandfather was a man with great style, but he didn't realize it. And that's exactly what I thought when I saw Kestin... He reminds me of Mattia from ABCL: a super stylish guy, but who seems miles away from worrying about his style.
It's a very uninhibited state of mind of clothing, both very detached while being passionate.
But I digress!
He tried to follow an architecture course, but failed the entrance exam.
And ultimately, his entry into the world of fashion will not be a big deal...
Her studies in fashion
Kestin is someone who loves clubbing and electro. He had a friend who was very involved in this culture and together they decided to visit his little sister in Newcastle. She studied fashion there, and it was a turning point for Kestin.
He decides to apply and he is accepted!
Thus began his studies in fashion despite, by his own admission, a first year of school very focused on electro evenings...
Kestin is very inspired by some of his teachers, experienced in the world of ready-to-wear, and this confirms his choice.
By “chance”, the husband of one of his teachers was responsible for design at Nigel Cabourn.
Kestin and Nigel Cabourn: the beginning of a long story
And it is impossible to talk about his career without mentioning Nigel Cabourn.
Nigel Cabourn is a veteran designer, and one of the pioneers of “contemporary workwear”. He is also one of the very first creators to put Ventile back in the spotlight. He is a highly respected designer
Nigel Cabourn, the legend! Image credit: Backyard Yill
And that’s how Kestin did his first internship with Nigel Cabourn. He explains that before meeting Nigel Cabourn, he already loved vintage clothing, but now he took it to another level.
Kestin really understood how vintage could serve as a starting point for designing clothes. It was even more fortunate for Kestin as Nigel was one of the most important collectors of vintage clothing in the world.
He admires Nigel's desire to go to the four corners of the world to find rare pieces and try to replicate them, using the same period fabrics... in the original factories!
He continued his studies at Reiss, a British brand unknown in France, with a mid-range positioning around elegant and urban clothing.
This is where Kestin became passionate about working in a creative studio.
Eventually his studies ended and he returned to work for Nigel Cabourn, and his taste for vintage only grew. It was at this time that he became "Head of Design" (=head of collection) for 8 years.
Nigel's commitment to quality led Kestin to travel all over the UK to get to know every factory in the country.
These were very formative years for Kestin, and he still has a lot of gratitude for watching Nigel struggle to find rare fabrics and continually challenge the British textile industry.
When we ask Kestin why he decided to leave Nigel Cabourn 8 years later, he explains that Nigel is a great purist of vintage and replicas, and that he wanted to bring a more technical and modern touch.
He therefore left Newcastle for Edinburgh and became a freelancer for Burberry and Margaret Howell.
But deep down, he has this desire... This desire to do things by himself and for himself, drawing on his experience and the relationships he has built with British factories.
And there too, destiny will give him a little help.
The birth of the Kestin brand
He was approached by the founder of a shoe brand made in Northampton wanting to launch clothing. This brand is Common People.
But the mayonnaise did not work, and on the suggestion of a Japanese partner, he decided to sell the last pieces of this brand under his name, although he had never thought of it.
Kestin doing quality control in a factory.
A brand that synthesizes:
- the importance of the outdoors in Kestin's life
- its link with vintage
- his taste for the British textile industry
- his experience with fabrics
- his life in Scotland, with this taste for simple and authentic moments
Here's a mood board that perfectly illustrates the variety of Kestin's inspirations.
Kestin sums it up like this:
We don't follow trends, we produce clothes that last and get better with age. We are a small team of enthusiasts who love what they do. We create with emotion and we want our pieces to make you feel something.
I also want to show you a side of Scotland you didn't know existed, by sharing little-seen parts of our culture and explaining what makes us tick.
The Kestin brand was born in earnest.
Color, texture, vintage, functionality: everything Kestin summed up in a single silhouette.
Then little by little, Kestin's unique creative touch hits the mark and word of mouth grows. The brand is now distributed in dozens of renowned points of sale around the world.
After taking the time to set the context, it's time to get into the details of this parka.
Why a parka with Kestin?
In fact, Kestin has a great mastery of outerwear, for two reasons:
- he lives in Scotland
- and it's a signature type of piece he's worked on at Nigel for almost a decade
He has extensive experience on the cut of a shoulder, the width of a sleeve, the length of a parka, the drape of a hood, etc.
As Kestin says, outerwear is the ultimate test for a designer, because you have to create a beautiful and obviously functional piece.
Julien and I spot a nylon parka from summer 2019, itself based on an M-51 type parka. It's a piece that Kestin really likes for its functionality and instantly recognizable style.
Kestin also likes the "mods" style, this 50s subculture in the United Kingdom .
A photo which clearly illustrates the central role of the parka among mods.
As a reminder, in the mod era, the parka was an inexpensive way to protect your suit during a scooter ride. An indestructible piece, terribly practical, conducive to customization, all that was needed for the parka to become an essential piece among mods.
It’s this mix of genres that I find super interesting. I couldn't find a better quality photo unfortunately!
Personally, I really like their audacity at the time, where they weren't afraid to wear such a piece over a very dressy outfit.
Our interpretation of a BonneGueule x Kestin parka
As Kestin says:
It's a parka for life: a classic design that will never go out of date, with quality finishes for a very durable and warm piece. Every little detail has been thought of to make it practical while maintaining a very simple design: sophisticated, subtle, but distinctive.
We therefore decided to reinterpret it with a more "purist" approach in the words of Kestin: using a technical removable lining and Ventile, a high-performance material that he also worked on for years and which we chose around a common passion.
A Ventile… in organic cotton!
It was obvious that by collaborating with a Scottish brand, we had to use this fabric created half a century ago in the United Kingdom, designed to withstand bad weather of all kinds!
🌊 IT’S WATER RESISTANT
This is THE characteristic of Ventile! Its operation is easy to understand: it is a densely woven cotton which prevents water from entering.
🌬️ IT’S BREATHABLE
Ventile claims it is the most breathable waterproof fabric available. I won't go that far, but it's clear that its breathability far exceeds that of any membrane. Quite simply, because air can easily circulate between the cotton fibers, unlike the plastic film of a membrane.
🌪️ IT’S WINDPROOF
The Ventile having a very dense weave, it effectively protects from the wind, and that is why it is appreciated by certain arctic explorers, the challenge for them being to have a very breathable fabric, which allows the vapor of the body while protecting them from the wind.
🤫 IT’S QUIET
A synthetic technical fabric sometimes makes a little "noise" when you move, because of its crunchy hand. On Ventile, this is not the case, and it will make as much noise as if you move with a cotton shirt, which is not much.
🌦️ IT’S SUITABLE FOR ALL CLIMATES
Obviously it is a very useful fabric against the rain, but not only that.
Ventile says it's a fabric you can wear "while going salmon fishing in Scotland, hiking in the Alps, or during a windy golf lesson."
And again, I'm being nice, but know that Ventile jackets were worn in the high mountains to climb Everest, in the Arctic by Ranulph Fiennes or even in the jungle under the recommendation of General Mac Arthur!
⚒️ IT’S SUSTAINABLE
Not only does Ventile take on a nice patina over time, but it is also a durable fabric. No delamination or blistering issues that can happen to a frequently used membrane fabric jacket.
This is a point that may seem trivial, but it changes everything: Ventile is a fabric that withstands use over several years much better than a technical membrane.
🖼️ AND IT’S BEAUTIFUL!
Since it is a 100% cotton fabric, we are light years away from a "plastic" rendering of a technical polyester fabric.
Cotton will age and patina beautifully. It is common for heritage/vintage/high-end workwear brands to use Ventile for trenches, parkas, jackets and even safari jackets.
On the BonneGueule side, although it is a subject that we have worked on quite a bit, we wanted to focus more on the environmental issue. It is therefore a Ventile from the “organic cotton” range .
Its weight of 252g/m2 is one of the highest at Ventile, it is the assurance of having a parka that will age well over time
Important note: the model is 1m88 tall!
As I mentioned, Kestin has a special history with Ventile:
Ventile is one of the first technical fabrics that I was introduced to, it is a material for which I have nostalgia and which takes me back to my beginnings as a designer.
It's a fabric that Nigel Cabourn introduced him to 20 years ago, during his first steps in men's ready-to-wear. He particularly likes this natural feel, due to the 100% cotton, unlike the synthetic hand of a Gore-Tex.
Eye for detail
One zipped pocket
Under the left pocket, there is a small zipped pocket which allows you to secure some personal items such as card holders, headphones, keys, etc.
It was a request from Julien and me, because as you know, I like having a little zipped pocket that reassures me.
A raglan fitting on the shoulders
Like our Ventile jacket , the shoulders have a raglan fit. In the case of these outdoor pieces, this type of assembly is more relevant, because in the event of a rainstorm, it prevents water from falling directly on the seam and seeping through.
A removable Climashield liner
As I told you, we wanted to make this parka a piece that can be worn all year round, and that's why we asked Kestin to add a removable lining.
You can therefore remove the lining using a button system.
The basic pattern did not include a removable lining, but Kestin liked the idea.
We insisted that the insulation be Climashield, because you know my love for this technical wadding, which has proven itself perfectly, whether with our customers or with the outdoor/military brands that use it.
Kestin did not know this insulation, he had never worked with it, and it is therefore the very first garment in Climashiend stamped Kestin.
Having brought this insulation to a designer as experienced as Kestin makes me very proud!
I've explained at length why I love Climashied so much, so I'll reiterate the key points:
- they are continuous filaments: it therefore has much better resistance over time
- it resists compression very well, it regains its volume very quickly
- it wicks away moisture, unlike down which has difficulty managing it
For more details on the Climashield, I invite you to (re)read the article presenting our coach jacket .
Here, it's Climashield Contur with a weight of 120g/m2.
This is the weight of the Climashield used by hikers who complete the PCT , this very long hike on the American coast, over several months, where we pass through burning deserts and snow. And they can only carry one mid layer, which must be useful in as many situations as possible, neither too cold nor too hot.
It was important for me to have a fairly light lining to allow you to wear a chunky knit underneath if necessary, or even one of our thick cardigans.
This allows you to have a very fine “adjustment” of the right level of thermal insulation by adjusting the removable lining and the thickness of the mesh you are wearing.
And if you ever want to wear our sleeveless vests underneath, know that the two layers of Climashield added are comparable to the thickness of Climashield used for extreme cold clothing from outdoor brands.
🇫🇷 Little cute point: the nylon for the lining comes from a French company!
A “made in UK” parka
This is something that was very close to Kestin's heart: he wanted this parka to be made in the United Kingdom, like 50% of Kestin's collections (the rest is in Portugal).
It is made in one of the oldest outerwear workshops near London.
My personal experience: at what temperatures to wear this parka?
Ah, the million-dollar question (of parkas)! I am starting to have a lot of experience with Ventile and Climashield, and the more time passes, the more I can refine and complete my answer to this question.
Without the removable liner
Without the lining, it is a parka that is intended to be worn well into the summer. Moreover, if you ever have a rainy summer, it is clearly the most breathable rain piece you can have, far ahead of a membrane.
From my personal experiences:
- parka + t-shirt/shirt: between 23°C and 17°C (come on, we can push it up to 15°C if you walk briskly)
- parka + cotton sweatshirt: between 20°C and 15°C
- parka + blazer and shirt: between 20°C and 12°C (thanks to the thermo-regulating wool of the blazer)
- parka + fine wool sweater: between 17°C and 10°C
- parka + medium/thick wool sweater: you can go down to 5°C
Obviously, this is not to be taken first degree, but it gives you a good idea of what to expect.
With removable liner
This is where it becomes a piece capable of facing winter, and here too here are my recommendations based on my personal experience:
- parka + removable lining + t-shirt/shirt: between 18°C and 12°C
- parka + removable lining + cotton sweatshirt: between 15°C and 10°C
- parka + removable lining + blazer and shirt: between 15°C and 8°C (thanks to the thermo-regulating wool of the blazer)
- parka + removable lining + fine wool sweater: between 10°C and 5°C
- parka + removable liner + medium/thick wool sweater: you can get down to -5°C, but you better wear your warmest clothes underneath.
So if I have to summarize, I will say that it can be worn from 23°C (and more particularly in hot and rainy climates) down to -5°C.
When I tell you that the intention was to make it a 4-season piece...
Our parka in action
I will give you a concrete use case for this parka.
In two weeks, I'm going to Tours for a few days. It will be between 10°C and 18°C. And a lot of rain is forecast.
I'm going with a rather casual style (sweatshirt, sneakers), but I'll still take a blazer with a shirt.
And for the trip, I want to take a backpack, so you absolutely need an outdoor piece without padding on the shoulders so as not to damage it with the backpack straps.
What piece of outerwear can allow me to handle rain and be worn with both a blazer and Chelsea boots one evening then a sweatshirt and sneakers the next?
There you go, you have just understood all the possibilities of this parka. By playing with the removable lining and the mesh underneath, you increase the thermal range of this piece.
My 2020 adventures with Ventile
This summer, I had the opportunity to experience the benefits of Ventile in moderate temperatures three times:
In Brittany
In June, I was invited to a charming civil wedding in La Trinité-Sur-Mer. I have a blazer, a shirt, it's 20°C and... a magnificent Breton drizzle begins.
At that moment, I blessed the breathability of the Ventile, which allowed me to effectively protect myself from this drizzle while letting me breathe with my blazer.
In Scotland
In August, I was in an absolutely remote area near Inverness, with lots of winds, a good downpour… and a temperature of just under 20°C.
We walked on a sloping hill, and the Ventile played its role perfectly in the rain, while being more breathable than a membrane.
From experience, I know that an "active" walk, uphill, with mild temperatures and a membrane, I would have been much warmer.
In Biarritz
If you have ever been to the Basque country, you know how the weather in summer varies greatly over the course of a day. But it always remains very humid, even in heat.
There was a good downpour as we returned from a restaurant, with a temperature of over 20°C. We might as well tell you that in these conditions, the slightest membrane quickly becomes suffocating.
The Ventile is therefore ideal for this type of situation, with a simple shirt underneath.
Besides, for the anecdote, my father needed a rain jacket after my parents moved to the Basque country two years ago. He wanted to go with a membrane jacket, but I preferred to get him a Ventile jacket, much more suited to the Basque ambient humidity. Two years later, he is absolutely delighted!
And as Kestin would say:
“Long live Frecosse! ahah”
How to get our BonneGueule x Kestin parka?
Visit our stores in Paris 3rd , Paris 6th , Lyon and Bordeaux and on our e-shop.
When will this parka be shipped?
This parka will be available on the eshop from Saturday September 26, but shipping will take place at the end of October, for reasons completely beyond our control.
You can imagine that on this collab that we were so happy to present to you, the slightest delay in delivery breaks our hearts.
We are fighting, we are not giving up so that it happens sooner, and if we manage to bring forward the deadline, you will be informed, in particular through this updated article.
Thank you all for your support which warms our hearts in the face of delivery hassles!
And I insist on this point: the parka can be ordered from Saturday September 26 on the eshop.
