THE DIFFERENT MODELS OF DRESS SHOES
LOW SHOES:
THE RICHELIEU (OXFORD IN ENGLISH)
This is probably the most common model. Richelieus are characterized by their so-called "closed" lacing, without inserts: the top of the shoe, which is called the "upper", is made of a single piece of leather.
THE DERBY
Often confused with the Richelieu, it is distinguished by its "open" lacing: two inserts supporting the eyelets of the laces are sewn onto the shoe.
MOCCASINS (LOAFERS IN ENGLISH)
With or without spikes, they are distinguished by the absence of a closing system. You can find some with tassels, fringes or with a penny (a plastron at the instep). Their varieties make them a good ally in summer!
MONK SHOES
They exist with single or double buckles. They are very formal shoes with a design that can surprise. To be reserved for those who already have a good culture of costume and formal clothing.
HIGH-TOP SHOES:
CHELSEA
A great classic, this boot stands out with its elasticated tightening system.
JODHPUR
A fairly close cousin of the Chelsea, it is distinguished by a buckle closure instead of elastic.
BALMORAL
Often made of two materials, Balmorals are distinguished by a long, straight seam that divides the shoe in two in the height direction.
LEATHERS AND MOUNTINGS
Low-end shoes are most of the time assembled by simple gluing . We strongly advise against this type of assembly which is destroyed very quickly and prohibits any repair operation on your shoes. Except for summer shoes that you will not intend to mistreat in advance (not nice anyway).
THERE ARE THREE MAIN TYPES OF MOUNTING:
THE BLAKE SEWN
Without a welt, the Blake stitch is more discreet and more flexible. However, its single internal seam prevents resoling. It is the least resistant of the three .
THE GOODYEAR SEWN
With its clearly visible welt, the Goodyear is a very solid and durable construction. It can be resoled.
NORWEGIAN STITCHING
Rarer on dress shoes, this construction is the most solid and the only one that is truly waterproof . Just like the Goodyear, it can be resoled. It is recognizable by its double stitching around the shoe.
WHAT'S GOOD TO KNOW
Whatever leather you choose (box-calf, cordovan, grained leather, etc.), you must absolutely check that it has no nerves or scars: it must be supple and have a regular grain (see our file on types of leather ).
And remember that the longevity of your pair is in your hands ! A dab of moisturizer and regular polish, and the systematic use of shoe trees, doubles or triples the life of your shoes!
A SHORT HISTORY OF SHOES
The ancestor of the shoe that comes closest to the one we know today is the poulaine, which dates back to the Middle Ages: a very slender shoe that could measure up to 50 cm! It was not until the 16th century that the shoe took on a shape similar to the one we know today.
Since then, footwear has evolved enormously, emphasizing comfort and meeting specific needs such as those of social distinction, which are increasingly present.
OUR BEST ADVICE ARTICLES
ABOUT SHOES
- Buying Guide for Leather Shoes (Part 1): Why is Leather Expensive?
- Buying Guide for Leather Shoes (Part 2): How to Know if They Will Last
- Buying Guide for Leather Shoes (Part 3): How to Choose the Right Size and Shape
- Leather Shoe Buying Guide (Part 4): How to Find Your Shoe Style
- Buying Guide for Leather Shoes (Part 5): Maintain and Repair to Make Them Last
- Buying Guide for Leather Shoes (Part 6a): Which Brands Should You Buy?
- How to choose the right shoes? (according to your style)
- How to choose the right shoes? (leather quality)
- How to choose your shoes? (quality of assembly)
- The art of patinating leather shoes
- The best shoe brands according to our tests
