File: The art of patinating leather shoes

Note from Benoît: we had already presented Jacques & Déméter through an interview a few years ago. The brand has evolved a lot since then, both in terms of range expansion and style.

The goal of Valentine and Maxime (creators of the brand) has remained the same: to benefit from renowned French know-how in shoe manufacturing.

We will come back to Jacques & Déméter very soon through a test article.

Maxime, a great enthusiast of patina, wanted to pass on his know-how to us through this article. He explains everything to us!

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You've often read it here: the advantage of investing in quality clothing is that they will last and improve over time. What we call patina refers to the variation in shades and colors that your jeans, shoes, etc. have. take as they age.

But, in recent years, for shoes (and leather objects by extension) some people have had fun using an artificial patina.

The phenomenon has grown so much that it has become an art in its own right with its followers, its experts and of course its detractors.

This consists, with a very particular technique which requires a lot of practice, of playing with contrasts and tints ; to give a unique appearance to your shoes.

Note: the article focuses on the patina of shoes, but you can do the same thing on your belts, bags and other leather pieces!

Artificial patina, where does it come from?

Olga Squeri (better known as Olga Berluti) is credited with the invention of artificial patina. While in the 80s men's shoes were black, brown or burgundy for the most original, she had the idea of ​​developing the art of patina in order to offer unique shoes, which resemble the man who wears them. .

According to legend, by “noting the influence of the moon on the depigmentation of leather”, she had the idea of ​​developing (in close collaboration with a tannery) a raw leather with mixed, mineral and vegetable tanning: Venezia leather ; which is exclusive to Berluti. This leather is known for its ability to beautifully absorb dyes and thus give the colors the transparency so characteristic of this House's shoes.

Although more of a fan of natural patina, this subject has always interested me and I even had fun trying the experience of artificial patina. It allows you to give a second lease of life to a pair of shoes at the end of their life or simply to personalize a pair that you have grown tired of . Some, masters in the art of patina, can work miracles on an old pair of shoes.

I will now explain to you how to make a patina, from A to Z, describing as precisely as possible all the steps and the products used.

Before that, here are some precautions to take:

• The art of patina is not easy to achieve . I therefore advise you not to try out, for your first time, on a pair of shoes that you like. Practice on a pair that has already had its day and won't make you cry when it's good to throw away, since your first patina is unlikely to be a work of art.

• Small quantities : it is much easier to add than to remove; so go easy on the doses of product.

• A shoe with naturally light leather will be easier to skate . I will explain later that you can patina black leather but it is much more complicated.

• Arm yourself with patience! A patina is a long time . For example, it sometimes takes several hours just to properly strip the leather. Let your shoes dry between each step . Don't expect to achieve a complete patina in 30 minutes, it's simply impossible!

• Obviously if your shoes are made of "bookbinded" leather (poor quality leather often covered with plastic) or imitation leather, there is no point in trying to patina them. You need leather with a non-existent protective layer (natural leather) or the thinnest possible (pure aniline leather).

• Before making the whole shoe, do a small test on a part that is not too visible (inner arch for example) to see how the leather reacts. Each patina is unique because each leather reacts differently; so find out before you start. Prudence is the mother of safety as they say.

How to create a patina on a pair of shoes?

The basic precautions have been detailed and you are ready to sacrifice one of your pairs of shoes on the altar of artistic experience.

So now let’s get to the heart of the matter!

The possible variations are limited by your imagination, I will try to give you as many ideas as possible, but you can of course find others. What I'm going to describe here is more of a common thread; but I invite you to move away from it in order to let your artistic soul express itself !

In addition, patina, like the maintenance of leather shoes, has almost as many chapels as practitioners.

The materials needed for a patina

To make a patina you will need:

• A pair of shoe trees,

• A cloth,

• A stripper (acetone or Saphir stripper),

• 90° alcohol (which acts as an eraser in the event of an error),

• Different dyes (I recommend the French flag dyes from Avel),

• Waxing creams and pastes (Classic Saphir and/or Gold Medal),

• Tools for creating the drawing: fine, wide brush, with hard and soft bristles, cloth, sponge, spray gun, cotton wick, etc. It all depends on what you want to do.

How to patinate the leather of a shoe?

First of all, you have obviously protected your work surface, put on a nice apron and gloves. Remember that you are using products that are permanent and that you normally only want to use them on your shoes: do not neglect these protections.

In addition, certain products can be very harmful, notably bleach: protective glasses will not be too much, as will a well-ventilated room .

You can protect your soles , the inside of the gussets and the bottom of the shoe with painter's tape. Personally, I don't do it. This forces you to concentrate and maintain precision in your movements.

Also think about what you want to do in advance. Saphir brand dyes (the most commonly used) do not come in as wide a color variation as the creams. There are nine shades to choose from, three primary colors and a highlighting base. You then have to play the color magician in order to get what you want.

Besides, when I told you previously that “the only limit is your imagination”: I lied. Common sense sets others. For example, don't expect to turn your black shoes into light brown.

Strip your shoes

Even if your shoes are made with natural leather, this step is obligatory, long and tedious! This will remove all the old layers of shoe polish, creams and leather finishing primer that would prevent the dye from penetrating properly.

Before applying the stripper, use a brush to remove large dust, then a damp cloth to have a very clean surface.

This step is undoubtedly the simplest but also the most risky . Indeed, the products used can have disastrous consequences on the leather of your shoes. Take the time and go in successive layers to see how the leather reacts , letting it dry for 15/20 minutes between each application.

Firstly, I advise you to use Saphir stripper or, failing that, acetone and... elbow grease! Stripping is physical and, with a cloth, you will have to rub vigorously.

In the case of black leather shoes, these products will not be enough to sufficiently discolor the leather, and you will therefore not be able to re-dye them. It will therefore be necessary to use, as a last resort and exceptionally, bleach (you can also bleach very dark shades which, in your opinion, have not been stripped enough).

Hydrogen peroxide is a good alternative to bleach initially: less effective but less dangerous.

Note that bleach is not good for leather, it burns it. We will therefore have to act with caution :

• Prepare yourself psychologically to put bleach on your shoes,

• Strip your shoes first ! Using bleach does not exempt you from (well) stripping them first. Bleach is the last resort! Even on black, stripping will attack the color. Above all, if the shoe is not perfectly stripped, the bleach will have no (or little) effect,

• Apply the bleach with a small brush, putting small amounts on the leather. You can repeat the step as many times as necessary rather than adding too much at once and burning all the grain of the leather. Please also note that rubbing with a cloth is useless, and that using a brush also allows you to better target the areas where you want to accentuate the discoloration,

• For the first pass, use diluted bleach: 50% water and 50% bleach,

• If you judge that the bleaching is not sufficient for what you want to do, use less and less diluted bleach. Warning: this means that it is more and more aggressive with leather,

• Leave to act between each use of bleach. The effect is not necessarily immediate (from a few minutes to a few hours depending on the leather), so watch your shoes like milk on the stove,

• RINSE again and again by rubbing them gently . If you don't do it enough, the bleach continues to act and will cause irreparable damage to the leather,

• Finally, let it dry overnight at least .

This is the only solution for discoloring mass-dyed black leather. However, it is not without consequences: bleach damages leather; which will affect the lifespan of your pair of shoes. This is why it is important to clearly define the desired result in advance, as it may not be necessary to completely bleach the leather.

To achieve uniform discoloration on a pair of black leather, chances are you'll need to bleach several times, paying particular attention to certain areas. Remember to rinse each time.

Dry your shoes on shoe trees so that they maintain a good shape.

Apply the base shade

We are talking here about the color which will serve as a clear reference for your patina . It must be applied evenly with a brush, spray gun, sponge , etc. It all depends on the desired result. A brush, for example, will leave “visible streaks” while a spray gun will give a more uniform appearance.

The base color should not be too dark so as not to limit the shades that you can add to it afterwards. Leave to dry for at least 15/20 minutes.

Once again, go easy on the quantity of product: if after the first coat you feel that the base shade is too light, you can always apply a second coat. You can also apply a second coat of a slightly different shade to add more depth to your patina.

The first layer will be absorbed heterogeneously by the leather, which can give a contrast effect. If, on the other hand, you want something more uniform, then you will need to apply several coats.

Creation of the patina design

We are now getting to the heart of the matter, I will not be able to describe a precise process to you given that here, the goal is to give free rein to your desires. The possibilities are endless and the only limit is your imagination... and good taste!

All you need to know is that you have to layer the layers of stains from the lightest to the darkest . We then talk about tones: a 2-tone, 3-tone patina... even 7 tones for the most skilled (not necessarily the most beautiful)! However, I will give you some examples/ideas:

• You apply several layers of different shades and attenuate in certain places for more relief and contrast,

• You can also create a magnificent marbled effect on the toe or on the entire shoe to give a museum calf look (effect that you can see above) to the leather, using a sponge/pad to strip partially the layer of darker dye to make the base color reappear in small touches,

• Creating gradients is more difficult to master. For example, for the hard toe, one of the techniques consists of wiping by pulling with an absorbent fabric, from the toe towards the rest of the upper. You can also use a brush for this.

You will have understood that you have to play with colors and different tools in order to create the effects you want. This step is almost like painting on leather .

A little advice: if you still want to wear the shoes after skating them, don't try to overdo it on the same pair . The patina must remain discreet otherwise it will catch the eye of your interlocutors.

Working on shades, revealing and finishing

Given what you just put it through, leather deserves to be taken care of. Once your dye is dry, you will need to nourish and hydrate it. In addition, you will quickly realize that the dye alone lacks flamboyance, shine and depth.

To nourish and moisturize the leather, start by applying universal cream . Then, to continue to nourish the leather while revealing and enhancing the work you have just carried out, there is a perfectly suited product: cream (superfine or gold medal at Saphir).

Personally, I do not recommend using a colorless cream , which will eat up the color and will tend to soften the dyeing work.

Choose a cream that is a shade slightly lighter than the dye applied .

You can use another cream of a darker shade to strengthen the appearance of the hard end and guarantors.

After the cream has dried ( 15/20 minutes minimum ) remember to polish the leather well. Depending on the result, you may decide to apply a second layer of cream.

To finish your masterpiece, I advise you to apply shoe polish which will add a little more depth to your patina . Apply the same reasoning as for the cream: a lighter polish for the entire shoe, and a darker one to enhance the hard toe and the guarantors.

The application of shoe polish can then be accompanied – and it is even recommended – by glazing the tip; in order to give it more shine and above all bring out the depth of the patina.

Maintenance of the patina over time

Your shoes are maintained as usual. Prefer colored creams and polishes, which will bring to life the patina you have just created . I do not recommend the use of colorless products because they tend (in the long term) to “eat” the color and especially to become embedded in the microcracks of the comfort pleats, which will therefore whiten.

I'm far from being an expert on patina, but you don't need that to know the procedure. Afterwards, as with everything else, there is no secret: you have to train, try your hand, to improve your technique and your know-how.

Keep in mind that an artificial patina will never be exactly how you imagined it . It is a matter of experimentation and corrections to achieve a result that you like.

You must have a pair of shoes lying around in a closet, right? So get started! In the worst case scenario you will have gained a place in your closet for a new pair.

It's great but I have two left hands. How can I do ?

I understand you perfectly. This is also why I did not use photos of my “masterpiece” to illustrate this article.

Do you want to take a chance on one of your pairs but don't want to risk ruining them? No problem: there are several craftsmen to whom you can entrust your pair of shoes. The best thing is to find out because, like artists, everyone has their own style, specificities and specialties .

It's up to you to see the one whose universe is closest to what you want to do. Expect, in general, from 60 to 120€, and more or less long delays depending on the craftsman.

Here are some addresses that I recommend. The list only gives addresses in Paris because I haven't yet had time to do a patina Tour de France. Furthermore, it is far from being exhaustive, but I prefer to recommend addresses that I know or about which I have heard a lot:

• Septième Largeur ( and their TumblR ): 59 rue Saint Lazare - 75009 Paris

• JM Legazel : Palais des Congrès de Paris, 2 place de la Porte Maillot - 75017 Paris

• Talon Rouge : 10 rue du Laos – 75015 Paris

• Paulus Bolten workshop : 28 rue le Sueur – 75016 Paris

• Laurent di Mascio : 20 rue St Ferdinand – 75017 Paris

• Emilie Patine : Avenue des Champs Elysées – 75008 Paris

Up to you !

Maxim

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Don't hesitate to take a look at the Jacques & Déméter website or on their blog , you will learn a lot of things about shoe construction in particular.

And thanks again to Maxime for his very nice article.

Not forgetting our own dress shoes...

Thanks to the Tanneries d'Annonay and our Barker Shoes workshop, we have developed real bootmaking know-how: assembly in England from A to Z.