For this test, which accompanies our Floyd shadow perfecto with a pretty pair of Dr. Martens brogues .
It interests you ? So, let's get on board!
The test of the April 77 perfecto in vegan leather
Short story of a great cup
Reinvented many times and constantly reworked, the perfecto remains a legendary piece of the men's wardrobe. Let's look together at the past of this legendary garment.
First of all, some juicy anecdotes that could really hit the mark during a (boring) family meal:
- did you know that the perfecto takes its name from the cigar that its creator, Irving Schott, used to smoke?
We easily recognize the perfecto by its rounded body.
- The first perfectos
were sold for less than 6 dollars in the United States!
- This garment was invented in 1928, so it is over 80 years old today.
- It saw the light of day when the Harley-Davidson company ordered a robust part from Mr. Schott, specially created for motorcyclists.
- At the time, Irving Schott cut his pieces from thick horse leather, which was more durable in the event of a fall.
You now have something to impress your grandmother Monique at Christmas and your friends at the next barbecue.
Irving Schott.
From bikers to rockers
The perfecto has made its way since 1928. It has gradually moved away from the main American roads to take over the concert stages, on the shoulders of singers at the end of the 20th century.
Popularized by a certain Marlon Brando in The Wild Team
This great classic of the 7th art has truly popularized the perfecto.
In France, this perfecto-insubordination association is reinforced when the “Black Jackets”
Later, in the 1970s, the punk movement and big groups like the Ramones brought "perf" back into fashion, without moving it away from its imagination of insurrection and dissidence.
Tommy Ramone and his gang, leathers on their backs.
No surprise, therefore, that Hedi Slimane elevated the “Motorcycle Jacket” to the rank of basic at Saint Laurent when he began a resolutely rock shift in 2012.
Anatomy of a legendary jacket
Several elements allow you to notice a perfecto at first glance, including:
- bending : designed to prevent air from rushing into the garment during long rides on a Harley,
- the short cut : initially intended to protect the bust in the event of a fall, it is still found on contemporary perfectos. Generally, these stop right on the belt or even slightly above,
-
the typical collar : folded down on the sides, the generous collar panels are usually held in place by press studs
,
- the asymmetrical zipper : a notable detail of this piece, it provides additional protection while two sections of leather are superimposed on each other. As ingenious as it is aesthetic.
Widely available in an infinite number of colors and materials since its invention, certain characteristics remain. You can also find a more complete and exhaustive history in the dedicated article .
The Perfecto, trademark registered by Irving Schott, originally made of horse leather. (Photo credits: Vice.fr.)
By tackling this monster of the men's wardrobe, and by assuming to work it in artificial leather, April 77 is therefore making a bold bet. Winner? This is what we are going to see!
April Fools? Not at all
April 77 is a French brand born in Paris in 2002. It offers a universe whose rock and rebel inspirations are palpable , while boasting a strong artistic dimension that wants to be close to musicians.
The brand's jeans feature a pick in the pocket, a nod to the world of guitars.
Here we see the pick.
Renowned for its very fitted cuts, even skinny for its denims, it is also known for the ethical dimension that it tries to imprint in its DNA.
Suddenly, we understand why April 77 decided to compose around the perfecto for its collections, as the rock/protest imagination of the piece finds an echo in the values of the brand.
Is not it ?
In any case, designing a perfecto in vegan leather is an idea, if not clever, at least daring .
Introduction
Let's talk little, let's talk well, let's talk... matter!
When I took a look at the April 77 website, the appearance of the artificial leather of this perfecto piqued my curiosity. I immediately got on my Vélib to go to the store, to see what it really was.
Judge for yourselves.
Quite honestly, the similarity with real leather is striking when you see the piece from more than a meter away. If we look closely at it, certain details betray its falsity.
The visual appearance, even from a few centimeters away, is quite astonishing.
To achieve this result, April worked with a polyurethane from a specialized Italian factory . The lining is a cupro-viscose alloy
Details that are not
If real leather gives way to artificial leather, we nevertheless find the majority of the traditional details of the classic perfecto .
The asymmetrical zip, typical of this type of piece, is respected to the letter by April 77.
Very faithful, the collar also features a large notch reminiscent of Schott's flagship models: the 613 and 618.
Well maintained thanks to the press stud.
The result ? A well-placed collar that falls perfectly on the torso.
The small shoulder pads are also a nod to the original models.
The level of detail shows the brand's desire to be part of the perfecto tradition.
Neat finishes
The finishes are clean and announce a robust piece. Up close, you can see that the material has a certain grain, reminiscent of calfskin.
The seams are clean and straight: no worries there.
I find the zips a little big, but this "massive" side undoubtedly plays in favor of the "rebellious" and raw universe of the perfecto.
My impressions
My reasoning is based on two main axes: design and port .
A convincing design
I was seduced by the design of this perfecto, its level of finishing and the accuracy of its details.
I don't have a rocker style, even less a biker style since the Vélib is my only steed, but I managed to tame this item of clothing and tame it quite naturally.
I won't hide from you that it impressed me for a long time and that it spent more than a day perched on its hanger, so much did I dread having to wear it for everyone to see. Being neither a biker nor particularly rebellious (unlike my manager), I feared not having the "legitimacy" to wear such a piece.
It must be said that Marlon Brando's legacy weighs heavy on our shoulders...
This summer, taking advantage of an evening cooler than the others, I still took the plunge and went out to roam the streets of the capital, perfecto on my back.
I suspected it, and it's fair game, my friends have showered me with numerous nicknames, the details of which I'll spare you.
However, I quickly felt at ease. It's a very strong piece, whose story we carry every time we put it on , but which fits surprisingly well into a large number of outfits. And if you don't believe me, go a little further down.
Limited shipping
I'll tell you straight away: this step was a little more complicated. If I was really seduced by the design and the stylistic potential of the piece, its life on my shoulders was much more delicate .
I have several reservations, all related to the material:
- first of all, it is not living matter . Unlike real leather, polyurethane does not stretch or move an inch. As a result, the drape is identical after 20 wears and the piece remains quite “rigid”. It is not impossible to bend the elbows or move the shoulders - far from it - but the comfort is not optimal and the perfecto does not adapt to its wearer, nor to their build.
Forget this kind of patina on your April perfecto! (Photo credits: Pinterest).
- secondly, it is quite a difficult item to wear. Its material makes it impractical once it exceeds 20 degrees
- finally, it suffers from the same problem as the vast majority of entry-level pieces in vegan leather: as soon as you get too close, you notice a slightly plastic effect which erases the last doubts
.
That being said, it must be recognized that vegan leather has very practical properties that its real counterpart cannot boast: for example, polyurethane is not too resistant to rain, cleans extremely quickly and easily...
How to wear it?
Still perplexed? I'm giving you some inspiration to prove to you that wearing a perfecto... it's not rocket science!
Easy and instinctive: the rocker style. Wear your perfecto over a white t-shirt, put on slim jeans and that's it! I finish my look with white sneakers but the more daring may prefer ankle boots, or even boots to accentuate the rider side. Who said it was difficult to domesticate this room? (Tee Muji , Jean Lee , National Standard Sneakers, Perfecto April 77 )
It also works in layering . Inserting a shirt as a midlayer between two layers will allow you to stay warm and assert a more refined style. To infinity and beyond. ( Muji tee, Meltin Pot shirt, Lee jeans, Nike sneakers, Perfecto April 77 )
With black, khaki always works. No need to worry any more, since the jeans-tee-perfecto combo is very effective. If you find the outfit too plain, despite the strength of the jacket, don't hesitate to accessorize and roll your denim over colorful socks. ( Uniqlo tee, Lee jeans, Uniqlo socks, Gudule rings, Dr. Martens brigues, April 77 perfecto)
More daring, the shirt under the perfecto allows you to confront two totally different worlds; formalism versus relaxation. The whole is not incoherent, the two passes can be quite complementary. A certain harmony emerges from these seemingly antagonistic inspirations, which enhances the outfit.
Conclusion
Even if it was initially impressive, the perfecto is not a monster. He's a tough guy with a soft heart, who just wants to be loved.
Give yourself time to tame it, make it your own, let it live on your shoulders and it will become your best friend. It is a strong piece, full of history, rich in symbols and details that are far from trivial. In short, it's a pillar of the men's wardrobe.
Historically cut from robust and very thick leather, April 77 has decided to work it in artificial leather, which constitutes a risky bet but which, in my opinion, deserves to be praised.
It is a garment with an elaborate design, even if the material can pose a problem in several respects as I said above
I'm quite satisfied with it but, in my opinion, the vegan commitment is an activist way of life which involves having to make choices. Giving up on certain pieces, almost in essence made of leather, is perhaps one of them... It's up to you to judge!
Dr. Martens brogues in vegan leather
To find the right person
The history of "Dr. Martens" shoes dates back to 1946. That year, German doctor Klaus Maertens was injured while skiing and tried, with the help of his partner, to adapt his shoes with new soles. air cushions .
Through extensive testing, the two partners managed to create a model with unrivaled comfort, robustness and excellent support. So much so that people suffering from orthopedic problems are starting to turn to the label.
The famous AirWair sole.
The success story is underway, logically starting in Germany before spreading to the whole of Europe. In an old continent ravaged by the Second World War and disturbed by ambient Germanophobia, Dr. Maertens sacrifices his name to penetrate the British market.
This is how at the beginning of the 1960s, “Dr. Martens” arrived across the Channel with its Anglo-Saxon sound.
Klaus Maertens and his associate Herbert Funck.
Changing universes over the course of innovations, the “Doc” achieved immense popularity among British working-class circles since the shoes presented excellent value for money.
The toes of the shoes are reinforced, providing additional protection for manual workers. It is this same criterion which will appeal to aficionados of the punk movement, because it is very practical during fights...
The Doc is queen in London in the 70s and 80s.
Whatever the case, the brand proves to be intimately linked to the cultural evolutions of English society : first workers, they become the symbol of the punk universe, then that of anarchists and skinheads who founded a real code around wearing the legendary workboots.
With the rise of sneakers and the fall in popularity of rock culture, Dr. Martens experienced a deep slump between the 1990s and early 2000s.
Lately, the brand has been rehabilitated by numerous creators who play around its non-conformist universe. She even worked on her flagship models
They won't let you go for a single moment
I was immediately seduced by the design of these brogues, and very curious to see them sculpted in vegan leather.
At Doc, we call this material “Félix leather” and we characterize it as follows: “vegan leather in synthetic material, supple and soft, with a two-tone finish”. Concretely, it is a polyurethane treated with a black faded effect
Here again, the material is misleading and you have to take a careful look to realize that it is not real leather.
Whether to look or to touch, this “Felix leather” is surprisingly close to real leather.
The grain is subtle and the shoe takes the light well, without shining too much.
On the sole side, we find the one that made the brand famous: the emblematic AirWair cushion , resistant to oil and grease, anti-wear and non-slip. Comfort is optimal.
Little extra: the sole is attached to the shoe thanks to goodyear stitching with the famous contrasting yellow thread. This assembly, generally robust, is a rather good sign.
For more information on shoe assembly, click here . (Credits:Jacques and Demeter ).
Beautiful material, increased comfort, solid assembly and carefully designed design : enough to offer a beautiful pair of shoes... but how do they behave on the feet? Answer just below.
My impressions
I've been wearing these famous Doc Martens vegan leather brogues a lot in recent weeks, and several points have caught my attention.
First of all, I find them very pretty from an aesthetic point of view. The perforations bring a welcome touch of elegance to a brand that history tends to associate with raw worlds.
The yellow stitching asserts an identity that we recognize at first glance and brings a hint of originality that I like.
In addition, the sole that made Dr. Martens famous is a real asset: you will feel everywhere that you are trampling on a small fluffy mattress...
That said, I admit that I had a little more difficulty familiarizing myself with the material. Even if it is less rigid than real leather during initial wear
Unlike leather, a living material, this artificial "Felix leather" does not live on its wearer's feet and does not really adapt to their shape. In addition, it only relaxes very slowly and the folds are quite unnatural .
This is a detail that many buyers have noticed when looking at the ratings given. Small clarification: brogues are unisex, hence the feminine comments on this example.
Last point: Felix artificial leather, made of plastic, is not breathable . As a result, sweating is accelerated and your socks will witness it.
On the other hand, they are very easy to clean and are much less resistant to water than real leathers, which is rather appreciable at the moment.
How to wear them?
Their classic color, their well-crafted design and their typical sole make these Docs a relatively versatile pair. They will fit easily into a wide range of looks, from casual to formal.
The proof in pictures...
Flee from overthinking ! The brogues - jeans - shirt combo has worked since the dawn of time... at least. It also works with a raw canvas but the Parisian heat on the day of the shoot dissuaded me from putting it on... ( De Fursac shirt, Lee jeans, Fossil watch, Dr. Martens brogues)
Even simpler: a colorful tee, slim denim and a few accessories to enhance the outfit. Ideal for a short summer stroll. ( Uniqlo tee, Lee jeans, Uniqlo socks, Gudule rings, Dr. Martens brogues)
You can also integrate them into looks that play on volumes. Take an oversized t-shirt, tuck it into a pair of original pants and roll up the sleeves. (Muji tee, Uniqlo sweatpants, Uniqlo socks, Dr. Martens brogues)
It also works with a perfecto, but you already know that!
How to maintain your vegan leather pieces?
This is one of the big strengths of vegan leather: it only requires minor and quick maintenance . This is one of the strengths of this subject.
Taking care of your artificial leather perfecto
This perfecto represents a significant investment and, although it does not cost as much as a nice real leather jacket, it is still expensive. It is therefore important to take care of it to make it last as long as possible.
To do this, I do not recommend rubbing it too hard, and even less so with alcohol, abrasive powders or sponges. Instead, use soapy water which, most of the time, is enough to remove debris and other dirt. Using a clean cloth, gently rub the areas that require a “little polish”.
A clean perfecto is still much better, right?
If your jacket shows signs of wear, you can try to clean them with a little linseed oil , while making circular movements with a woolen cloth.
Soapy water can also be used to clean the lining of your room. Indeed, the latter can show unsightly traces of perspiration, and rubbing it from time to time can prove useful.
Don't forget to leave it on a hanger when you don't have it on your shoulders, to avoid unsightly creases...
Pamper your “Felix leather” brogues
Unlike real leather shoes, these Docs will not require long and laborious maintenance. You won't have to spend hours polishing them as their material is easily cleanable.
After purchasing, you can waterproof them first to protect them
Simple maintenance as pie.
Avoid them being exposed to sunlight as much as possible
Furthermore, the use of a wooden shoe tree is recommended, since it will absorb humidity
Conclusion
Buying a piece of vegan leather is a militant act that leads to refusing animal abuse. That said, being a vegan consumer does not (always) equate to being an eco-responsible consumer. We must keep in mind that the petroleum industry and its derivatives (including polyurethane) are also very polluting.
Objectively, however, I would say that developments in this area are palpable and very rapid. I see it as a source of progress with strong growth potential; it is a market that is expected to grow in size in the years to come.
Driven by major brands with large Research and Development budgets
Regarding the parts tested, I would say that they have already reached an almost optimal level in terms of design, but that there remains room for improvement in terms of material.
In my opinion, they are only likely to interest vegans as they stand, and must benefit from innovations before attracting support from the general public.
That said, I have no doubt about the possibilities of development of these materials in the near future since they have advantages and characteristics that are not found on real leathers.
We'll see what the future has in store for us!
