For this test, which accompanies our Floyd shadow perfecto with a nice pair of Dr. Martens brogues .
Are you interested? Then let’s get on board!
The test of the April 77 perfecto in vegan leather
A short story about a great cut
Reinvented many times and constantly reworked, the perfecto remains a legendary piece of men's clothing. Let's take a look together at the past of this legendary garment.
First of all, some juicy anecdotes that might well hit the mark during a (boring) family meal:
- Did you know that the perfecto takes its name from the cigar that its creator, Irving Schott, used to smoke?
The perfecto is easily recognizable by its rounded body.
- The first perfectos were sold for less than $6 in the United States!
- This garment was invented in 1928, so it is over 80 years old today.
- It came about when the Harley-Davidson company commissioned Mr. Schott to create a sturdy part, specially created for motorcyclists.
- At the time, Irving Schott cut his pieces from thick horsehide, which was more durable in the event of a fall.
You now have something to impress your granny Monique at Christmas and your friends at the next barbecue.
Irving Schott.
From bikers to rockers
The perfecto has come a long way since 1928. It has gradually moved away from the main American roads to take over concert stages, on the shoulders of singers at the end of the 20th century.
Popularized by a certain Marlon Brando in The Wild One , the perfecto is saddled with a reputation associated with the world of bikers and rebellion.
This great classic of the 7th art truly popularized the perfecto.
In France, this association between perfecto and insubordination is reinforced when the "Black Jackets" take over the room.
Later, in the 1970s, the punk movement and big groups like the Ramones brought "perf" back into fashion, without distancing it from its image of insurrection and dissidence.
Tommy Ramone and his gang, leathers on their backs.
It's no surprise, then, that Hedi Slimane elevated the "Motorcycle Jacket" to the rank of a basic at Saint Laurent when he began a resolutely rock shift in 2012.
Anatomy of a legendary jacket
There are several elements that allow you to notice a perfecto at first glance, including:
- the bending : designed to prevent air from entering the garment during long Harley rides ,
- the short cut : initially intended to protect the bust in the event of a fall, it is still found on contemporary perfectos. Generally, these therefore stop right on the belt or even slightly above,
- the typical collar : folded down on the sides, the generous panels of the collar are usually held in place by press studs ,
- the asymmetrical zipper : a notable detail of this piece, it provides additional protection while two pieces of leather overlap one another. As ingenious as it is aesthetic.
Widely available in an infinite number of colors and materials since its invention, some characteristics remain. You can also find a more complete and exhaustive history in the dedicated article .
The Perfecto, trademarked by Irving Schott, originally made of horse leather. (Photo credits: Vice.fr.)
By tackling this monster of the men's wardrobe, and assuming to work it in artificial leather, April 77 is making a bold bet. Winner? That's what we're going to see!
April Fools? Not at all
April 77 is a French brand born in Paris in 2002. It offers a universe whose rock and rebel inspirations are palpable , while claiming a strong artistic dimension intended to be close to the musicians.
The brand's jeans feature a pick in the pocket, a nod to the world of guitar playing.
Here we see the mediator.
Renowned for its very fitted cuts, even skinny for its denims, it is also known for the ethical dimension that it tries to imprint in its DNA.
So, we understand why April 77 decided to compose around the perfecto for its collections, as the rock/protest imagery of the piece finds an echo in the values of the brand.
Isn't it?
In any case, designing a perfecto in vegan leather is an idea that is, if not clever, at least daring .
Introduction
Let's talk little, talk well, talk... matter!
When I visited the April 77 website, the look of the artificial leather of this perfecto piqued my curiosity. I immediately got on my Vélib to go to the store, to see what it was really like.
Judge for yourselves.
Quite honestly, the similarity to genuine leather is striking when you see the piece from more than a meter away. If you look closely at it, some details betray its falsity.
The visual aspect, even from a few centimeters away, is quite astonishing.
To achieve this result, April worked with a polyurethane from a specialized Italian factory . The lining is a cupro-viscose alloy. (50%-50%). Made in Poland, this perfecto therefore displays a beautiful design... 100% vegan.
Details that aren't details
Although genuine leather has given way to artificial leather, the majority of the traditional details of the classic perfecto are still present .
The asymmetrical zip, typical of this type of piece, is respected to the letter by April 77.
Very faithful, the collar also sports a wide notch reminiscent of Schott's flagship models: the 613 and the 618.
Well held thanks to the snap button.
The result? A well-fitting collar that falls perfectly on the torso.
The small shoulder pads are also a nod to the original models.
The level of detail shows the brand's desire to follow the tradition of the perfecto.
Neat finishes
The finishes are clean and announce a robust piece. Up close, we can see that the material has a certain grain, reminiscent of calfskin.
The seams are clean and straight: no worries there.
I find the zips a little big, but this "massive" side undeniably works in favor of the "rebel" and raw universe of the perfecto.
My impressions
My reasoning is structured around two main axes: design and port .
A convincing design
I was seduced by the design of this perfecto, its level of finishing and the precision of its details.
I don't have a rocker style, and even less so a biker style since the Vélib is my only steed, but I managed to tame this garment and domesticate it quite naturally.
I won't hide from you that it impressed me for a long time and that it spent more than a day perched on its handlebar, so much did I dread having to wear it in front of everyone. Being neither a biker nor particularly rebellious (unlike my boss), I was afraid of not having the "legitimacy" to wear such a piece.
It must be said that Marlon Brando's legacy weighs heavily on the shoulders...
This summer, taking advantage of a cooler evening than the others, I still took the plunge and went out to roam the streets of the capital, wearing a perfecto jacket.
I suspected it, and it's fair game, my friends have called me many nicknames, the details of which I will spare you.
However, I quickly felt at ease. It's a very strong piece, whose history you carry every time you wear it , but which surprisingly fits well into a large number of outfits. And if you don't believe me, scroll down a little further.
A limited port
I'll tell you right away: this step was a little more complicated. While I was really seduced by the design and stylistic potential of the piece, its life on my shoulders was much more delicate .
I have several reservations, all related to the subject matter:
- First of all, it is not a living material . Unlike real leather, polyurethane does not relax and does not move an inch. As a result, the fall is the same after 20 wears and the piece remains quite "rigid". It is not impossible to bend your elbows or move your shoulders - far from it - but the comfort is not optimal and the perfecto does not adapt to its wearer, nor to his build.
Forget about this kind of patina on your April perfecto! (Photo credits: Pinterest).
- then, it is a rather difficult item to wear. Its material makes it impractical once the temperature goes above 20 degrees , but remains too light for low temperatures. Concretely, it is suitable for cool evenings or mild days, but forget it if it is too hot or cold because polyurethane does not breathe at all.
- Finally, it suffers from the same problem as the vast majority of entry-level vegan leather pieces: as soon as you get too close, you notice a slightly plastic effect that erases any last doubts. .
That being said, it must be acknowledged that vegan leather has very practical properties that its real counterpart cannot boast of: for example, polyurethane is not too afraid of rain, cleans extremely quickly and easily...
How to wear it?
Still perplexed? Here are some inspirations to prove that wearing a perfecto... is not rocket science!
Easy and instinctive: the rocker style. Put your perfecto over a white tee-shirt, put on a pair of slim jeans and that's it! I finish my look with white sneakers, but the more daring can opt for ankle boots or even boots to accentuate the rider look. Who said it was hard to tame this piece? ( Muji Tee, Lee Jeans, National Standard Sneakers, April 77 Perfecto)
It also works in layering . Intercalating a shirt as a midlayer between two layers will allow you to stay warm and assert a more worked style. To infinity and beyond. ( Muji Tee, Meltin Pot Shirt, Lee Jeans, Nike Sneakers, Perfecto April 77 )
With black, khaki always works. No need to worry any more, since the jeans-tee-perfecto combo is very effective. If you find the outfit too plain, despite the strength of the jacket, don't hesitate to accessorize and roll up your denim on colorful socks. ( Uniqlo tee, Lee jeans, Uniqlo socks, Gudule rings, Dr. Martens brigues, April 77 perfecto)
More daring, the shirt under the perfecto allows you to confront two totally different worlds; formality versus casualness. The whole is not incoherent, the two collars can be quite complementary. A certain harmony emerges from these a priori antagonistic inspirations, which enhances the outfit.
Conclusion
Even though he was impressive at first, the perfecto is not a monster. He is a big tough guy with a tender heart, who only asks to be loved.
Give yourself time to tame it, to make it your own, let it live on your shoulders and it will become your best friend. It is a strong piece, full of history, rich in symbols and details that are far from trivial. In short, it is a pillar of the men's wardrobe.
Historically cut from a sturdy and thick leather, April 77 has decided to work it in artificial leather, which is a risky bet but which, in my opinion, deserves to be recognized.
It is a garment with an elaborate design, even if the material can be problematic in several respects as I said above. .
I'm quite happy with it, but in my opinion, vegan commitment is a militant lifestyle that involves having to make choices. Putting a cross on certain pieces, almost by nature made of leather, is perhaps part of it... It's up to you to judge!
Dr. Martens brogues in vegan leather
Find the right shoe for your foot
The history of "Dr. Martens" shoes dates back to 1946. That year, the German doctor Klaus Maertens injured himself while skiing and, with the help of his partner, tried to adapt his shoes with new air-cushioned soles .
Through testing, the two friends managed to create a model with unrivaled comfort, robust and with excellent support. So much so that people suffering from orthopedic problems began to turn to the brand.
The famous AirWair sole.
The success story is underway, logically starting in Germany before spreading to the whole of Europe. In an old continent gangrened by the Second World War and disturbed by an ambient Germanophobia, Dr. Maertens sacrifices his name to penetrate the British market.
This is how, at the beginning of the 1960s, "Dr. Martens" arrived in the UK with its Anglo-Saxon consonances.
Klaus Maertens and his associate Herbert Funck.
Changing universes with innovations, the “Docs” obtained immense popularity among British working class circles since the shoes offered excellent value for money.
The tip of the shoes is reinforced, providing additional protection for manual workers. It is this same criterion that will appeal to fans of the punk movement, because it is very practical during fights...
Doc is queen in London in the 70s and 80s.
In any case, the brand turns out to be closely linked to the cultural developments of English society : initially working class, they became the symbol of the punk universe, then that of anarchists and skinheads who founded a real code around the wearing of the legendary workboots.
With the rise of sneakers and the decline in popularity of rock culture, Dr. Martens experienced a deep lull between the 1990s and early 2000s.
Lately, the brand has been rehabilitated by many designers who play around its nonconformist universe. It has even worked on its flagship models in artificial leather on the occasion of a Vegan Line that she has been supporting for several seasons...
They won't leave you alone
I was immediately seduced by the design of these brogues, and very curious to see them sculpted in vegan leather.
At Doc, we call this material "Felix leather" and we characterize it as follows: "vegan leather in synthetic material, supple and soft, with a two-tone finish". Concretely, it is a polyurethane treated with a black faded effect .
Here again, the material is deceptive and you have to look closely to realize that it is not real leather.
Whether to look at it or to the touch, this "Felix leather" is surprisingly close to real leather.
The grain is subtle and the shoe catches the light well, without shining too much.
On the sole side, we find the one that made the brand famous: the emblematic AirWair cushion , resistant to oil and grease, anti-wear and non-slip. The comfort is optimal.
Little extra: the sole is fixed to the shoe thanks to a Goodyear stitching with the famous yellow contrasting thread. This assembly, generally robust, is rather a good sign.
For more information on shoe assemblies, click here . (Credits:Jacques and Déméter ).
Beautiful material, increased comfort, solid assembly and a well-designed design : everything you need to offer a beautiful pair of shoes... but how do they behave on your feet? The answer is just below.
My impressions
I've been wearing these famous vegan leather Doc Martens brogues a lot in recent weeks, and several things have caught my attention.
First, I find them very pretty from an aesthetic point of view. The perforations bring a welcome touch of elegance to a brand that history rather associates with raw universes.
The yellow stitching asserts an identity that we recognize at first glance and brings a hint of originality that I like.
In addition, the sole that made Dr. Martens famous is a real asset: you will feel like you are stepping on a little fluffy mattress everywhere...
That said, I admit that I had a little more trouble getting used to the material. Even if it is less rigid than real leather during the initial wears , she obviously relaxes much less .
Unlike leather, a living material, this artificial "Felix leather" does not live on the feet of its wearer and does not really adapt to their shape. In addition, it only relaxes very slowly and the folds are rather unnatural .
This is a detail that many buyers have noticed when looking at the ratings given. Small clarification: brogues are unisex, hence the female comments on this example.
Last point: Felix artificial leather, made of plastic, is not breathable . As a result, sweating is accelerated and your socks will be a witness to it.
On the other hand, they are very easy to clean and are much less afraid of water than real leather, which is quite appreciable at the moment.
How to wear them?
Their classic color, their well-executed design and their typical sole make these Doc a relatively versatile pair. They will easily fit into a wide range of looks, from casual to formal.
The proof in pictures...
Run away from overthinking ! The brogues - jeans - shirt combo has worked since the dawn of time... at least. It also works with raw canvas but the Parisian heat on the day of the shooting dissuaded me from wearing it... ( De Fursac shirt, Lee jeans, Fossil watch, Dr. Martens brogues)
Even simpler: a colorful tee, slim jeans and a few accessories to enhance the outfit. Ideal for a little summer stroll. ( Uniqlo tee-shirt, Lee jeans, Uniqlo socks, Gudule rings, Dr. Martens brogues)
You can also integrate them into looks that play on volumes. Take an oversized t-shirt, tuck it into original pants and roll up the sleeves. (Muji tee, Uniqlo sweatpants, Uniqlo socks, Dr. Martens brogues)
It also works with a perfecto, but you already know that!
How to care for your vegan leather pieces?
This is one of the big strengths of vegan leather: it only requires minor and quick maintenance . This is one of the advantages of this material.
Taking care of your faux leather perfecto
This perfecto is a significant investment and, while it doesn't cost as much as a nice real leather jacket, it is still expensive. It is therefore important to take care of it to make it last as long as possible.
To do this, I advise you not to rub it too hard, and even less with alcohol, abrasive powders or sponges. Instead, use soapy water , which is usually enough to remove debris and other dirt. Using a clean cloth, gently rub the parts that need a "little polish".
A clean perfecto is still much better, isn't it?
If your jacket shows signs of wear, you can try to repair them with a little linseed oil , while making circular movements with a woolen cloth.
Soapy water can also be used to clean the lining of your piece. This can show unsightly sweat marks, and rubbing it from time to time can be helpful.
Remember to leave it on a hanger when you don't have it on your shoulders, to avoid unsightly creases...
Pamper your “Felix leather” brogues
Unlike genuine leather shoes, these Docs won't require long and laborious maintenance. You won't have to spend hours polishing them as their material is so easy to clean.
After purchasing, you can waterproof them first to protect them . Afterwards, you can wipe them down from time to time to remove dust and other impurities, and rub them gently using a cleaning foam .
Easy maintenance.
Avoid exposing them to sunlight as much as possible. and store them in a ventilated and dry place .
Furthermore, the use of a wooden shoe tree is recommended, as it will absorb moisture. and will keep your shoes in shape.
Conclusion
Buying a piece of vegan leather is an act of activism that means refusing animal abuse. That said, being a vegan consumer does not (always) mean being an eco-responsible consumer. It is important to keep in mind that the oil industry and its derivatives (including polyurethane) are also very polluting.
Objectively, however, I would say that the developments in this area are palpable and very rapid. I see this as a source of progress with strong growth potential; it is a market that should grow in size in the years to come.
Driven by major brands with large Research and Development budgets , new eco-friendly materials are emerging to save both living beings and the environment.
As for the tested parts, I would say that they have already reached a quasi-optimal level in terms of design, but that there is still room for improvement in terms of material. before they become truly attractive.
In my opinion, they are only likely to interest vegans as they stand, and need to benefit from innovations before gaining the support of the general public.
That said, I have no doubt about the possibilities of evolution of these materials in the near future since they have assets and characteristics that are not found in real leathers.
We'll see what the future holds!
