Before diving headlong into this technical and dense subject, a little semantic clarification is necessary. This article is not intended to deal with sports clothing strictly speaking, nor athleisure
In other words, how has it evolved to achieve specific objectives of prestige, comfort or security? How can transforming clothing make it easier to practice a sport, symbolize its values or even save a life?
Beyond the historical interest, this article will highlight the “primary utility” function of clothing, unfairly less addressed than the purely stylistic dimension.
Are you ready ? So let's go.
Gain security: clothing as protection
If the International Automobile Federation (FIA) has always regulated the equipment used in racing, the standards have slowly evolved over technical innovations, and the emergence of the notion of a duty of safety towards drivers.
The beginnings of the Formula 1 World Championship
On May 13, 1950, the FIA inaugurated the Formula 1 World Championship
At this time, safety standards were in their infancy and would seem absurd to us today : no seat belts
The rails of the time were simple bales of straw while the car engines already developed 350hp.
The driver's equipment is just as minimal: cotton shirt, leather gloves and helmet, as well as covering glasses, make up the regulatory outfit. The risks incurred by the pilot are significant and varied…
We had to wait until the 1970s to observe the arrival of numerous safety innovations , such as the full-face helmet, the fireproof hood or the six-point harness.
Juan Manuel Fangio, five-time world drivers' champion in the 1950s, at the start of a Grand Prix. He wears a shirt (no tie ☺), glasses worthy of an aviator, and probably gloves. The original leather helmet has already been replaced by a slightly more solid model. (Credits: Autoweek)
The turning point: the appearance of the fireproof suit in 1977
The 1970s were probably the period when awareness of the importance of pilot safety was decisive.
1968 Belgian Grand Prix, Spa-Francorchamps. We can see the great architect of many security developments in F1, Sir Jackie Stewart, in the background. Roman Polanski also dedicated a documentary to him, entitled Weekend of a Champion, in 1972. (Credits: NothingnessIsEverything)
The real revolution in pilot clothing is the use of Nomex, manufactured by DuPont de Nemours. This is a technical fabric guaranteeing anti-burn protection at very high temperatures.
Focus on Nomex, material of champions
Discovered in 1961, this synthetic fiber is a polymer whose intrinsic structure naturally gives it exceptional qualities of mechanical and thermal resistance . This is essential because no chemical surface treatment is necessary to strengthen the fabric. This material does not ignite, has a melting point of around 400°C and is also an excellent electrical insulator.
Its companion Kevlar has the same formula but a different configuration, which makes it even more resistant but less flexible.
Thus, Nomex and Kevlar can be cleverly combined to combine thermal barrier and optimal mechanical protection. And as in a good mid-season layering , we can also introduce an intermediate layer increasing breathability, for example.
Four star drivers of the 1990s in their Nomex suits: Ayrton Senna, Alain Prost, Nigel Mansell and Nelson Piquet. (Credits: GrandPrixHistory)
The suit, sponsor patches and seams are made from this material. The whole thing weighs only two kilos. The downside is that it is not very breathable and the pilot loses around four liters of perspiration per race.
Undergarments
The ankle boots are made of Nomex; their rubber soles for its “grip” and insulating properties. The filling, made of cork on your city shoes, is here made of carbon to absorb shocks.
Finally, if we extend the garment to the helmet - also lined with... Nomex -, just know that it can withstand a shock of 400G
Daniel Ricciardo shows you his outfit, from left to right: the Hans, the helmet, the hood, the skin knit, the long johns, the socks, the gloves, the suit and the shoes. (Credits: RedBull Racing)
Who said shoes are just for walking? (Credits: ABCaustralia)
In motor sports, improving clothing has therefore been a real survival issue .
From the 1950s to the present day, technical progress, particularly the appearance of thermally and mechanically resistant synthetic fibers, has been decisive. They have largely contributed to guaranteeing the safety of automobile drivers.
Gain comfort: outfits for movement
I'm sure you've all been bothered at one time or another by your outfit when doing sports: itchy materials, friction of the seams with perspiration, questionable breathability...
Tennis being an interesting case of modification of clothing giving pride of place to comfort , we will now take a look at it.
From shirt to polo
At the start of the 20th century, the Wimbledon tournament had already existed for a quarter of a century. However, tennis is not professionalized, and the players' clothing is not yet completely adapted to the sport.
It comes from the city outfits in vogue at the time , namely the skirt for girls and the long-sleeved shirt/city pants duo for boys.
Suzanne Lenglen and René Lacoste, partners in doubles in 1926. The Frenchwoman, six times winner of the French Open and Wimbledon, wears a white silk tulle skirt and a headband by Jean Patou, Haute-Couture designer of the time. (Credits: Pinterest)
The gradual abandonment of street clothes began when René Lacoste, member of the Four Musketeers who won the 1927 Davis Cup, had a polo shirt (the equestrian sport) created with a collar: the Lacoste polo shirt was born .
During the same Davis Cup, a bet made with the team captain – a crocodile suitcase in the event of victory – and his tenacity on the courses led to him being nicknamed “the crocodile” by the American press. The polo shirt has just found its logo!
René Lacoste in pre-match attire in the late 1920s.
In 1933, René Lacoste joined forces with hosier André Gillier to industrially exploit the petit piqué shirt, embroidered with his emblem. This is the first time that a conspicuous brand has been sewn onto the exterior of a garment . This idea has since gained ground, for better or for worse…
The slogan “demand the brand” seems obsolete today, but creation seemed to rhyme with counterfeiting as early as 1933.
The iconic Lacoste polo shirt is named L.12.12, which corresponds to nothing less than an industrial reference: L for Lacoste, 1 for the pique code, 2 for short sleeves, and 12 for number of the prototype finally validated.
Revolutionary for the time, cotton pique frees movement and facilitates the evacuation of perspiration . Originally, the L.12.12 was only available in white, the color arriving with the export of the model in the early 1950s.
René Lacoste wearing his creation in 1938.
For more information on polo, do not hesitate to (re)read our dedicated guide .
The appearance of technical materials
Today, few people play in petit piqué polo shirts because cotton absorbs sweat. All modern outfits are made of synthetic fibers, facilitating movement and wicking away perspiration. The majority is made of polyester.
This material is often shamed in ready-to-wear, but we must not lose sight of the fact that we are talking here about technical materials adapted to the practice of a sporting activity . Its synthetic fibers from petrochemicals are chosen in this context for their qualities of lightness, elasticity, robustness, and their ability to dry quickly. In addition, they can easily be combined with other fibers (elastane, nylon, etc.) to improve breathability, for example.
Florian wrote an excellent article on sportswear , which I invite you to consult. The entire design of the garment contributes to greater comfort: the fabric, the positioning of the seams, etc.
At Wimbledon, linesmen, ball boys and gardeners each have their own locker room, let's see! (Credits: dailymail)
However, tennis has been experiencing a debate between elegance and comfort for several years. The sober dress code of aristocratic origins is anchored in people's minds and sometimes colludes with marketing.
Stanislas Wawrinka's checkered shorts during his victory at the French Open in 2015 caused a stir. (Credits: Libération)
At Wimbledon, the “Temple of Tennis” and the oldest tournament in the world, where each player's outfit must be 80% white, Roger Federer's outfits sometimes blended in better with the decor than those of Rafael Nadal.
Their common equipment manufacturer wanted to target two distinct audiences – by barely exaggerating classic and elegant forties for Roger, and young winners for Rafa – but imposing the tank top at Wimbledon was jarring to say the least. So much so that during recent editions, Roger Federer wore his eternal polo shirts while Rafael Nadal returned to more conventional t-shirts.
The same brand, the same place, two very distinct worlds. Federer beats Nadal in five sets and in style too, Wimbledon 2007. (Credits: Dailymail)
With the current evolution of technologies, gaining comfort while remaining chic is no longer wishful thinking. Design combines with technicality to obtain clothing that fully meets the demands of the sport practiced. We can only rejoice!
Clothing as a guarantor of the social prestige of a sport
You will tell me “cliché!” ".
Not so much, golf is indeed a sport where the social function of clothing takes on its full meaning . The facts show that the strict rules governing its practice in competition are only modified under pressure from players, and always to a lesser extent.
A sport with aristocratic origins
The rules of golf were enacted in 1897.
The Royal & Ancient Golf Club (R&A) was responsible for this codification after King William IV took over as president. This association publishes “The Rules of Golf” every four years, inviting each golfer to refer to it. Many articles, such as faceoff, ball marking or order of play, are still in force today.
The Duke, future George VI, and the Duchess of York playing golf during their honeymoon in Surrey (England) in 1923. Sorry for the size of the photo! (Credits: eigca)
Apart from these practical rules, players are required to adopt a code of conduct, called “etiquette” , towards their opponents, the course and the organizer. In the case of golf, good sportsmanship is as important as respect for the rules. According to “The Rules of Golf,” violating the “spirit of the game” is punishable by disqualification.
The clothing rules of the Pro Golf Association (PGA), the American equivalent of the R&A, are very strict. Some lengths are even measured in inches! Jeans and collarless t-shirts are prohibited.
During training, Bermuda shorts must not fall more than four inches below the knee and the shirt must be tucked into the pants. If Bermuda shorts are prohibited in competition for players, caddies have been entitled to them since 2004 and the threat of Tiger Woods' caddy to abandon his champion in the middle of the Ryder Cup.
Tiger Woods and Phil Mickelson at the 2004 Ryder Cup. Lightweight technical pants and cleats have replaced wool and brogues, but the collar and sleeveless vest are still present.
Women must also wear a collar but may not have sleeves. They have the choice between shorts and skirts
Is having a strict dress code a sign of non-development?
Respecting strict rules can be seen as a sign of respect for this sport with distant origins and codified by the elite. Or conversely as the last rampart of self-esteem and social endogamy.
It is true that many clubs accept casual attire for tourists, or for training, without giving in to jogging.
But tradition stands strong in competition, in this sport advocating a strong concordance between clothing and social behavior . Maintaining a strict dress code is intended to reflect a discreet and noble attitude, required in all circumstances.
A president on the verge of golf impeachment with these illegally short Bermuda shorts.
That said, it must be admitted that freedom of clothing is a symbolically important but negligible phenomenon for the practice of this sport, from the moment technical materials are accepted on the courses.
Indeed, like tennis, golf has benefited from the arrival of synthetic fibers in the composition of clothing : in addition to their resistance and elasticity, research will aim here to make clothing more insulating while remaining breathable, which allows to limit the accumulation of layers and thus reduces hindrance during movements.
The flamboyant Severiano Ballesteros during an eventful swing. (Credits: TodaysGolfer)
The best example of novelty has to do with color . The young Rickie Fowler caused a sensation during his debut on the PGA Tour with his garish monochrome outfits – orange in particular, but also green and blue. Shaking up the classicism of the golf imagination has made it possible to breathe new life into the sport and attract young people.
However, Fowler did not break any regulations, he just knew how to adapt to them while expressing his personality. This is basically what you do every day: integrate social codes then slightly twist them to make them your own.
Rickie Fowler in a very sober outfit for him, during the 2017 US Open.
If the cost of complete equipment and the need to maintain large spaces for practice remain a barrier to access to a very wide audience, golf is gradually becoming more popular . Nevertheless, the wardrobe of the perfect golfer remains very traditional in form, and can put off a generation not very inclined to such stylistic prohibitions.
The final word...
Over time, clothing has come to serve the athlete. At first a simple adaptation of the city wardrobe, the outfits gradually responded to comfort and safety requirements.
It is interesting to observe that once these objectives are achieved, the style of clothing changes little over the years. The parallel with the reinterpretations of pillars of the men's wardrobe, in lighter and more technical materials, is striking.
These days, the locker room is so relaxed that we seem to be witnessing the opposite phenomenon. Comfort takes primacy over social codes which tend to change little by little. Sportswear has become king, so much so that it influences city clothing...
