Fashion and evolution of clothing in sport

Before diving headlong into this technical and dense subject, a little semantic precision is necessary. This article is not intended to deal with sportswear strictly speaking, nor with athleisure. but of the evolution of clothing in sport.

In other words, how has it evolved to achieve specific objectives of prestige, comfort or safety? How can the transformation of a garment facilitate the practice of a sport, symbolize its values ​​or even save a life?

Beyond the historical interest, this article will highlight the “primary utility” function of clothing, unjustly less addressed than the purely stylistic dimension.

Are you ready? Then let's go.

Gaining in safety: clothing as protection

While the Fédération Internationale de l'Automobile (FIA) has always regulated the equipment used in racing, the standards have slowly evolved over the course of technical innovations and the emergence of the notion of a duty of safety towards drivers.

The beginnings of the Formula 1 World Championship

On May 13, 1950, the FIA ​​inaugurated the Formula 1 World Championship. , today unanimously considered the premier category of motorsport.

At that time, safety standards were in their infancy and would seem absurd to us today : no seat belts , no safety barrier to absorb shocks, no fire-fighting device...

The driver's equipment is just as minimal: cotton shirt, leather gloves and helmet, as well as protective goggles, make up the regulatory outfit. The risks incurred by the driver are significant and varied...

It was not until the 1970s that many safety innovations were introduced , such as the full-face helmet, the fireproof balaclava and the six-point harness.

The turning point: the appearance of the fireproof suit in 1977

The 1970s were probably the period when awareness of the importance of pilot safety was most significant. . In 1976, Niki Lauda survived a crash but was left permanently disfigured by his burns. From now on, the fireproof suit will be mandatory .

The real revolution in pilot clothing is the use of Nomex, manufactured by DuPont de Nemours. This is a technical fabric that guarantees anti-burn protection at very high temperatures.

Focus on Nomex, the material of champions

Discovered in 1961, this synthetic fiber is a polymer whose intrinsic structure naturally gives it exceptional qualities of mechanical and thermal resistance . This is essential because no chemical surface treatment is necessary to reinforce the fabric. This material does not ignite, has a melting point of around 400°C and is also an excellent electrical insulator.

Its companion Kevlar has the same formula but a different configuration, which makes it even more resistant but less flexible.

Thus, Nomex and Kevlar can be cleverly combined to combine thermal barrier and optimal mechanical protection. And as in a good mid-season layering , we can also introduce an intermediate layer increasing breathability, for example.

The suit, sponsor patches and seams are made of this material. The whole thing weighs only two kilos. The downside is that it is not very breathable and the rider loses about four liters of sweat per race.

Underwear are also made of Nomex. If the exterior of the gloves is made of Nomex, the interior of the gloves is made of leather: it allows for fine contact, resists abrasion and is insulating , the driver can then get out of his car by leaning on the bodywork in the event of an electrical problem.

The boots are made of Nomex; their soles are made of rubber for its "grip" and its insulating properties. The filling, made of cork on your city shoes, is here made of carbon to absorb shocks.

Finally, if we extend the garment to the helmet - moreover lined with... Nomex -, just know that it can withstand a shock of 400G on one second and an impact at 500 km/h. A complementary system, the Hans , is attached to the back of the helmet to prevent neck injuries.

Daniel Ricciardo shows you his outfit, from left to right: the Hans, the helmet, the balaclava, the skin sweater, the long johns, the socks, the gloves, the suit and the shoes. (Credits: RedBull Racing)

In motor sports, improving clothing has therefore been a real survival issue .

From the 1950s to the present day, technical progress, particularly the appearance of thermally and mechanically resistant synthetic fibres, has been decisive. It has largely contributed to ensuring the safety of racing drivers.

Gain in comfort: outfits that support movement

I'm sure you've all been bothered at one time or another by your outfit while doing sports: itchy materials, seams rubbing with sweat, questionable breathability...

Tennis being an interesting case of clothing modification that emphasizes comfort , we will now look at it.

From shirt to polo shirt

At the beginning of the 20th century, the Wimbledon tournament had already existed for a quarter of a century. However, tennis was not professionalized, and the players' outfits were not yet fully adapted to the sport.

It comes from the city outfits in fashion at the time , namely the skirt for girls and the long-sleeved shirt/city pants duo for boys.

The gradual abandonment of city clothes began when René Lacoste, a member of the Four Musketeers who won the 1927 Davis Cup, had a polo shirt (the equestrian sport) with a collar made for himself: the Lacoste polo shirt was born .

During this same Davis Cup, a bet made with the team captain – a crocodile suitcase in case of victory – and his tenacity on the courts led to him being nicknamed "the crocodile" by the American press. Polo had just found its logo!

In 1933, René Lacoste joined forces with the hosier André Gillier to industrially exploit the petit piqué shirt, embroidered with his emblem. It was the first time that a conspicuous brand was sewn onto the outside of a garment . This idea has since made its way, for better or for worse…

The iconic Lacoste polo shirt is named L.12.12, which is nothing more or less than an industrial reference: the L for Lacoste, the 1 for the pique code, the 2 for the short sleeves, and the 12 for the number of the prototype finally validated.

Revolutionary for the time, the cotton pique allows for freedom of movement and facilitates the evacuation of perspiration . Originally, the L.12.12 was only available in white, the color arriving in tandem with the export of the model in the early 1950s.

The emergence of technical materials

Today, few people play in small piqué polo shirts because cotton absorbs sweat. All modern outfits are made of synthetic fibers, facilitating movement and the evacuation of sweat. The majority are made of polyester.

This material is often reviled in ready-to-wear, but we must not lose sight of the fact that we are talking here about technical materials adapted to the practice of a sporting activity . Its synthetic fibers from petrochemicals are chosen in this context for their qualities of lightness, elasticity, robustness, and their ability to dry quickly. In addition, they can easily be combined with other fibers (elastane, nylon, etc.) to improve breathability, for example.

Florian wrote an excellent article on sportswear , which I invite you to consult. The entire design of the garment contributes to greater comfort: the fabric, the positioning of the seams, etc.

However, tennis has been experiencing a debate between elegance and comfort for some years. The sober dress code of aristocratic origins is anchored in people's minds and sometimes colludes with marketing.

At Wimbledon, the "Temple of Tennis" and the oldest tournament in the world, where each player's outfit must be 80% white, Roger Federer's outfits sometimes blended into the decor better than Rafael Nadal's.

Their joint equipment supplier wanted to target two distinct audiences – barely exaggerating the classic and elegant forty-somethings for Roger, and the young winners for Rafa – but imposing the tank top at Wimbledon was at least jarring. So much so that in recent editions, Roger Federer wore his eternal polo shirts while Rafael Nadal had returned to more conventional T-shirts.

With the current evolution of technologies, gaining comfort while remaining chic is no longer a pious wish. Design combines with technicality to obtain a garment that is completely in line with the requirements of the sport practiced. We can only rejoice!

Clothing as a guarantor of the social prestige of a sport

You're going to tell me "cliché!"

Not really, golf is indeed a sport where the social function of clothing takes on its full meaning . The facts show that the strict rules governing its practice in competition are only modified under pressure from the players, and always to a lesser extent.

A sport with aristocratic origins

The Rules of Golf were first enacted in 1897.

The Royal & Ancient Golf Club (R&A) was tasked with this codification after King William IV took over as its president. This association publishes "The Rules of Golf" every four years, inviting every player to refer to it. Many articles, such as putting into play, marking balls or the order of play, are still in force today.

Apart from these practical rules, players are required to adopt a code of conduct, called "etiquette" , towards their opponents, the course and the organiser. In the case of golf, good sportsmanship is as important as respecting the rules. According to "The Rules of Golf", violating the "spirit of the game" is punishable by disqualification.

The dress code of the Pro Golf Association (PGA), the American equivalent of the R&A, is very strict. Some lengths are even measured in inches! Jeans, collarless T-shirts and and any clothing displaying a slogan.

In training, Bermuda shorts must not fall more than four inches below the knee and the shirt must be tucked into the pants. While Bermuda shorts are banned in competition for players, caddies have been allowed to wear them since 2004 and the threat of Tiger Woods' caddie to abandon his champion in the middle of the Ryder Cup.

Women must also wear a collar but may not have sleeves. They have the choice between shorts and skirts. but must opt ​​for high socks.

Is having a strict dress code a sign of non-evolution?

Respecting strict rules can be seen as a sign of respect for this sport with distant origins and codified by the elite. Or conversely as the last bastion of intimacy and social endogamy.

It is true that many clubs accept casual attire for tourists, or for training, but without allowing jogging.

But tradition is reinforced in competition, in this sport which advocates a strong concordance between dress and social behavior . Maintaining a strict dress code is intended to reflect a discreet and noble attitude, required in all circumstances.

That said, it must be admitted that freedom of dress is a symbolically important but negligible phenomenon for the practice of this sport, from the moment that technical materials are accepted on the courses.

Indeed, like tennis, golf has benefited from the arrival of synthetic fibres in the composition of clothing : in addition to their resistance and elasticity, research here will aim to make the clothing more insulating while remaining breathable, which limits the accumulation of layers and thus reduces the hindrance during movement.

The best example of novelty is linked to color . The young Rickie Fowler caused a sensation during his debut on the PGA Tour with his garish monochrome outfits – orange in particular, but also green and blue. Shaking up the classicism of the golf imagery in this way helped to breathe new life into the sport and attract young people.

Yet Fowler didn't break any rules, he just knew how to adapt to them while expressing his personality. That's what you do every day, basically: integrate social codes and then slightly twist them to make them your own.

While the cost of complete equipment and the need to maintain large spaces for practice remain a barrier to access for a very wide audience, golf is gradually becoming more democratic . Nevertheless, the perfect golfer's wardrobe remains very traditional in form, and may put off a generation not inclined to such stylistic prohibitions.

The final word...

Over time, clothing has been put at the service of athletes. Initially a simple adaptation of the city wardrobe, outfits have gradually met the requirements of comfort and safety.

It is interesting to note that once these objectives have been achieved, the style of the garment has changed little over the years. The parallel with the reinterpretations of pillars of the male wardrobe, in lighter and more technical materials, is striking.

Nowadays, the wardrobe is becoming so relaxed that we seem to be witnessing an opposite phenomenon. Comfort is taking precedence over social codes that are gradually tending to change. Sportswear has become king, so much so that it influences city clothing...