Brand review #8: between Japanese workwear, sartorial art and pajamas

Fashion and evolution of clothing in sport Reading Brand review #8: between Japanese workwear, sartorial art and pajamas Next Jules Tournier, from Napoleon to the conquest of space

New month, new brand review!

For this 8th part, we are going to look at the purchases and desires of the latest additions to the team... who are not short of ideas though! We therefore welcome:

  • Alex, new recruit to community management, who answers your questions and comments every day,
  • Axel, young blue also in the editorial, who will prepare articles just the way we like them,
  • and the elegant Anthony, which you can find in stores in Bordeaux.

Are you ready ? So, off we go!

On the radar of...

In this section, our friends tell us about the pieces that caught their eye . Without having bought them, they remain nestled in a corner of their head and give them a nasty look.

In some cases, it's even a real crush. They tell us why.

Alex, eyes fixed on the Japanese archipelago

Gaze, with narrowed eyes, towards the horizon. Bun and kimono in the wind, a bowl of sake in hand. Who hasn't dreamed of it?

Yes, you will have understood, I have a real weakness for the land of the Rising Sun.

So, I tend to hunt, hunt and hunt again (no pun intended) for small Japanese pieces. Right now, my cursor is focused on the FirstEditionDesign brand

And especially on this superb kimono!

Handmade kimono, around €115 on Etsy.

I like this traditional side, associated with a military style. The corduroy brings an interesting texture to the piece and avoids making it too “prime”.

I can see myself wearing it with a t-shirt or a slightly mottled sweatshirt, over a pair of good chunky raw jeans. With such a jacket, it is better to keep it simple with the rest of the outfit.

私はそれが欲しい!/ I WANT IT!

Axel, in the city as well as in his bed

Know this, I'm not really a morning person. Even two hours after waking up, three coffees and a squeeze of orange juice (at least), I remain grumpy, mute and somewhat cantankerous. So imagine how much the so-called “dormcore” trend – taking inspiration from nighttime wardrobe to create wearable daytime clothing – seemed made for me.

However, I won't go so far as to tell you that I would want to walk around in my old slippers at the office or wear my bathrobe to go shopping, don't worry!

Popularized by many designers, from Lanvin to Dries Van Noten via Haider Ackermann , the fashion for pajamas continues to make its way from the catwalks to the dressing rooms.

I recently discovered the Spanish brand Olatz which creates unisex sleepwear. Despite a fairly high posted price , I am seriously considering giving in to this sweet whim .

I particularly like the multitude of colors offered, including olive green, ivory, hazelnut or aubergine. I also appreciate the classic designs, with contrasting piped trim, a simple and elegant button placket and an optional chest pocket, all “made in USA” and 100% silk...

You could wear this kind of shirt casually tucked into smart, comfortable wool pants, with a pair of white sneakers on your feet. However, avoid the total look, you might think you fell out of bed.

Anthony, elegant to the tips of his toes

A house founded in 2008 by Alexis Lafont, Caulaincourt has gradually established itself in the world of dress shoes.

I am very attached to traditional know-how and I believe I have found what I am looking for with them. The shoes are made in France (made between Angers and Cholet) and the leathers come from the prestigious tanneries of Puy and Annonay.

In addition, Caulaincourt is one of the rare houses to offer an exceptional personalization service ! From an existing model, you can choose the assembly of the shoe, the finishes, the leathers, the lining, the patina... In short, a unique shoe.

I appreciate the wide choice of shapes that the house offers and I was particularly able to admire this very beautiful pair of full-brogues called “Savile 2”, in reference to its typically British round shape.

The regularity and precision of the perforations, as well as the handmade cognac patina, make them an elegant and versatile pair, less formal than a pair of Richelieus. Available for just under €400.

You don't live in Paris? Don't worry about me, either! We are lucky to have Pierre Monserant in Bordeaux, the only official Caulaincourt dealer in the region.

Team purchases

Here, we tell you about the pieces we acquired recently .

How did we think about the purchase? What criteria did we look at? How do we wear the pieces in question? This is what we explain to you!

Alex's shopping, blown away by the community

It was a day like any other. I was there, on the lookout, responding to your comments. When suddenly, THE question!

What do you think of the Dr. Martens Church Vintage Smooth?

Available at €175 on the brand's website.

I grant you, the line is a little unusual - halfway between a workboot and a chukka - but it brings originality to the model. The same goes for the seams: we like it, or we don’t like it.

When I saw them, I could already hear that little squeak of the new sole as I walked...

I promise you, I tried to resist. My card stared at me, looking moralizing... But between them and me, it was love at first sight! They are easier to wear than it seems; like any workboots, in fact.

Whether you prefer jeans, chinos or heavy flannel pants, you can go for it!

Axel, in Adam's costume or almost

We're going to talk about underwear, briefs more precisely! No fuss between us.

I've been settling into my new apartment over the last few weeks and, while I've taken the opportunity to invest in a new mattress , I thought a lot about the perfect nightwear . Even if it means investing to ensure optimal sleep.

Concerning myself, I am a fan of night briefs, wide, flared and comfortable. I recently discovered the Arthur underwear brand and was tempted by a visit to the store, where they explained to me the concept of “slip underpants”...

Sorry about the size of the photos! Do not hesitate to take a look at the site, you will see more clearly.

Very curious, I fell for the “Arthur 687” model, 100% yarn-dyed cotton!

We find small all-over prints, men in the middle of a weight training session (if not going to the gym...).

In terms of support, I would say that these are really boxer shorts reserved for the night . You will be comfortable sleeping, it is particularly comfortable. On the other hand, not sure that they can fulfill the same function in a hectic day...

Anthony, the shirt fanatic

I'm passionate about shirts, I almost only wear that.

During my research to find THE part with the best quality/price ratio, I came across the Howard's brand which you already know very well.

Its ambition is simple: to offer the best, a real experience. To do this, Frédéric - its creator - sources his supplies from the best weavers, notably the English spinning mill Thomas Mason. The shirt is then entirely made in Normandy, in a small workshop on a human scale with around ten seamstresses .

As winter approaches, I chose this blue cotton flannel shirt with a houndstooth pattern from Thomas Mason, whose finishes are exceptional in this price range!

€149 on the brand's e-shop.

Indeed, alongside the traditional reinforcement swallows and removable stays, we find a canvased Italian collar (for better comfort), Australian mother-of-pearl buttons sewn on Zampa di gallina feet, as well as English seams!

The shirt is incredibly soft, the buttonholes are very solid and completely unblemished, which is very nice.

In his own words, Frédéric looks for the sparkle in the client's eye. And I can tell you that mine shines every time I wear this shirt!

The grain of madness...

What would you buy if you had a Visa Black Infinite card, with no budget limit?

Who never asked himself this question ? It's our friends' turn to answer them.

Alex sings “Ah, if I were rich!”

To be frank, I wouldn't necessarily go to luxury or hyper-luxury boutiques. Instead, I would go and look for small parts here and there… lots of small parts!

Master-card fever would invade me and, still at FirstEditionDesign, this magnificent tweed patchwork kimono would immediately go from “Add to cart” to “Order confirmed” status...

€113.41 exactly.

I like the way the kimono is reinterpreted and modernized in tweed , as well as the fastening system - very raw. A strong piece, in short.

Well, let's be frank, let's dream a little... In the patchwork style, I would perhaps also go to Visvim whose work is incredible in this area.

A piece as beautiful as it is difficult to find... and to afford!

Axel, riding on style!

While I was leisurely surfing the Internet, during an online shopping session , I came across this splendid riding-inspired jacket in compact twill and twill from Bottega Venetta, a discreet Italian luxury brand with humble but always very elegant creations.

As a true aficionado of this house, endowed with exceptional know-how, I like to draw inspiration from its modern and always very accurate creations.

Of course, my bank account does not allow me - yet - to assume such an expense (some 1950 euros all the same...). I only imagined myself, strolling through the Tuileries, proud while wearing this exceptional piece. Royal!

The jacket - halfway between the Napoleonic officer and the bionic uniforms of the generals of the Galactic Empire in Star Wars (didn't you notice?) - could be worn as a uniform with straight pants, in a material similar and of a close color.

I would add a long camel-colored wool overcoat, to break up the too-dark silhouette, and black patent Chelsea boots. As a bonus, a pair of tortoiseshell-style acetate sunglasses (or real tortoiseshell for that matter, from Maison Bonnet for example!).

A little extra: Bottega Veneta wants to be resolutely invested in a CSR strategy , while the textile and fashion industry remains, even today, the second most polluting sector in the world. Everything we love here, at BonneGueule!

Nothing but tailor-made for Anthony

If money were only a secondary concern, I would only dress accordingly. However, without shying away from the capital, I am very attached to Bordeaux and I was convinced of finding very good professionals close to home. It’s now done!

Considering Bordeaux as their “city of heart”, Lucile Videau and her partner decided to launch their tailor-made boutique, elegantly called Buzoni in reference to the surname of Lucile's great-grandmother.

In this cozy style boutique, the customer experience is there. No, actually: Lucile definitely does not consider us a client. The objective is to support us in a personal approach , to share our views on clothing style which goes far beyond the simple mercantile relationship.

In addition to the human relationship that is forged from the first minutes, we find at Buzoni an absolutely prodigious choice of fabrics (more than 3000 references) among the greatest weavers: VBC, Holland&Sherry, Loro Piana, Piacenza, Fratelli, Thomas Mason...

For this beautiful 100% cashmere blazer from Holland&Sherry, you'll have to break the bank. Count 1600 euros!

In accordance with what can be expected from industrial measurement, the entire costume is customizable: choice of assembly , width of the lapels, choice of buttons, color of the lining, choice of shoulders with more or less padding…

The quality is there, with European manufacturing. We find all the details we care about on this type of piece: half-moon seams, salt shakers at the armpits or even the barchetta chest...

In addition, Buzoni is not limited to suits and offers a tailor-made offer for shirts (made in France), coats and bow ties. Moreover, Lucile does not stop at men: our companions and friends will also be able to benefit from her professionalism.

Definitely THE future beautiful Bordeaux house!

The final word...

We are coming to the end of this eighth brand review, varied to say the least. We'll see you soon for even more discoveries. And don’t hesitate to share your latest fashion favorites with us in the comments!

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