On the occasion of the release of our new wool jacket, Geoffrey and I wanted to meet Lionel Bonneville and the Jules Tournier team, and bring you some of the atmosphere of Mazamet.
Beneath his good humor, Lionel demonstrates great attachment to his heritage, the quality of his production and the ecology around the factory.
In this video, we will ask ourselves:
- what is the philosophy of the manufacture,
- what is its environmental policy,
- how it witnessed - and resisted - the industrial decline of the region,
- how “family spirit” is found in the company,
- how Jules Tournier builds his legacy...
We would like to warmly thank Lionel and his team for their welcome and kindness!
Jules Tournier cloth clothing at BonneGueule
You may already know this draper who made 100% wool sheets (and made in France!) for:
Moreover, I am pleased to announce that we have received a global restock and that we are therefore ready for winter!
Last year, almost all of the camel coats were sold in two weeks, we had not anticipated such a craze and many were disappointed by this out of stock in the middle of winter .
This time, we learned from our mistakes and we hope that the quantities will be sufficient.
All sizes are therefore available in all colors!
Now that we have taken stock of the stocks, Rafik will take us back to the atypical history of this manufacturer, where military uniforms, Balmain, Chanel, technical clothing and aerospace come together...
The story of Jules Tournier begins 150 years ago...
Mazamet, near Toulouse, in the 19th century.
Under the influence of a Napoleonic minister
The activity picks up very quickly! The success was such that our friends from Tarn ended up opening counters in Latin America - Argentina in the lead - but also in South Africa and New Zealand.
It was in this context that Jules Tournier founded his fabric company in 1865.
Mr. Jules Tournier, founder of the eponymous manufacturer
More than 150 years later, not much remains of Mazamet's thriving industry. Workshops close, relocate... However, one diehard remains in this landscape: Jules Tournier & Fils.
When we think of a century-old spinning mill or clothier, which has remained a family business, we often imagine Italian names. It is therefore a pleasure to be able to look at a local company, which continues to stand the test of time without aging...
A family business like no other
The clothier of the armies
The history of Jules Tournier is closely linked to that of the French army. He began by manufacturing fabrics for Napoleonic officers, then dressed our soldiers of the First World War.
The factory notably produces the famous "horizon blue cloth", worn in the trenches.
A Poilu from the Great War, in his horizon blue cloth uniform.
The sailors, in turn, are wrapped in Jules Tournier wool sheets. Even today, he continues his collaboration with the Ministry of Defense.
The washing and dyeing room, 1920.
Where the magic happened...
Until 1950, production was limited to wool sheets for coats, as well as double-sided felts/wools for shoes.
Towards a “fashion” turning point
In the 1960s, the family weaver chose to diversify into “fashion” fabrics.
Accustomed to a certain requirement, he naturally gravitates towards luxury and Haute-Couture .
Jules Tournier thus manufactures tweeds, more comfortable thanks to the addition of stretch, or even 100% angora sheets.
Among its clients, we find leading figures in French fashion , with names like Chanel or Balmain in particular.
Look from the Balmain pre-fall 17 collection.
Balmain x Jules Tournier.
It is no coincidence that Jules Tournier now exports to 42 countries, led by the Middle East, Asia and the USA. Where French know-how is sought after!
On the way to techwear!
Since the 1970s, the weaver has devoted a significant part of its R&D to techwear , so much so that it now represents 30% of total production.
We're not talking about urban techwear , you don't find these materials at Outlier or The North Face . It is essentially a search for performance with fabrics intended for personal protection, that of machines or even the aeronautics and space industry...
For example, we can cite insulating and flame-retardant textiles.
Certified “Living Heritage” know-how
Jules Tournier is the very last French wool manufacturer to be fully integrated. There is no other!
As Lionel, sixth generation of the family, summarizes:
It's only the sheep that we don't raise.
Total control of your production chain
Thanks to its vertical integration, Jules Tournier proceeds at each stage, from the arrival of the wool wads to the creation of the final fabric.
Spinning
It all starts with the arrival of the bales of materials...
The wool is then washed and combed, before being spun.
It is on this large console that the fiber is transformed into wire.
The dye
The dyeing is done in these large vats. We’ve come a long way since the photo from the 1920s at the start of the article!
Weaving or knitting
If the material is a "warp and weft"
Their looms allow you to insert up to 12 different threads at a time. That's the only way to get a tweed with such colors.
In the other case, the fabric is obtained by forming a mesh
The kind of flying saucer on the right is a knitting machine.
Ennoblement
This is the key stage of the whole process, the one where we give the fabric its final touch . Wool fulling, felting, scraping, applying technical finishes... Everything happens on these large machines!
The flagship of French creation
The work and skills of Jules Tournier were recognized by the State, which awarded the weaver the Living Heritage Company label. This “distinguishes manufacturing excellence and rare know-how”.
This label rewards emblematic companies of French craftsmanship and industry. Among the other "EPVs", we can, among others, name the embroiderer Lesage
It seems like nothing, it’s a little piece of our heritage.
But the story with Jules Tournier is not over! We will therefore meet very soon to present our new wool jackets... And in the meantime, you can (re)discover our jackets and coats .
