Update: you can order the Jules Tournier pure wool jacket now on the shop .
In my opinion, a wool jacket is the best of both worlds.
The relaxed cut, and the authenticity of wool , which is also an elegant material with insulating and breathable properties (we can never say this enough).
It is a garment with great potential, offering many possibilities. I always have in mind the image of Daniel Craig and his Dior Homme jacket in Specter .
This model made a big impression on me. Note the buttoning system hidden by the zip!
You can wear this type of jacket with ankle boots, derbies, sneakers, chinos, jeans, wool pants... for me, it's a key piece in winter.
For this reason, we began to explore this avenue with the blue and gray wool jackets from Jules Tournier.
And since they received a very good reception, we wanted to go further: a more original color and a high-tech innovation for cold insulation which has just been released...
A persimmon specially developed for us
A color full of nuances
As with our camel coat , we wanted detailed shades. A color with relief.
I told Lionel by Jules Tournier
I expected him to offer us a perfectly plain color, and he (very) pleasantly surprised us with this slightly mottled khaki, truly unique .
It is quite complicated to describe because it is rather atypical, and a photo is worth a thousand words. I'll let you judge.
We could have fun counting the different shades of the threads making up the woolen cloth. The khaki is punctuated with pale green, olive, small grayish touches, there are even hints of “dollar green”! It is the harmony of these variations that gives the color all its depth.
A 100% wool French sheet
Obviously, it is 100% wool . Here too, we are really happy to be able to offer it to you in this price range
In terms of weight, we have 330 g/m².
To compare :
- and 410g/m2 for the camel coat.
Why this choice?
In fact, I absolutely wanted a more fluid, more flexible fall . Not to mention that we had already worked on more “workwear” sheets on previous models.
By choosing a lighter wool, I wanted to play with the drape. Let it be more fluid, more “natural”.
But this jacket is no less warm, we have equipped it with a brand new insulation technology...
No, I didn't touch your little sister's angora rabbit...
Polartec Alpha® insulation
The importance of padding
This is the other great characteristic of this jacket: its hidden technicality.
I am frustrated to see that this element, although key to comfort, is too often treated lightly.
George-Michael, chief designer:
“Let’s go ask Jean-Mich from production where we’ll find the cheapest cotton wadding!”
Most often, brands see it as the component that must be as inexpensive as possible .
They then simply specify that there is "padding", without ever indicating its origin or its properties.
It’s all the more a shame as clothing insulation continues to improve! So, as soon as we started to be interested in this type of material, it was clear that this aspect of the jacket would be taken care of. My techwear side has spoken!
And very quickly, it was the Polartec Alpha® that caught my attention...
Polartec, insulation for US Special Forces
Basically, the Polartec Alpha® is an order of the Special Forces of the American army.
In cold regions
“Snow fights between colleagues are fun, but what clothes should I wear? And how can I not be cold when it’s over?” This is where the Polartec Alpha® comes in! (Credits: Reuters)
Until now, Special Forces had a system of layers of clothing to remove or wear depending on the situation. Good old layering, in short.
It was painful, especially when the perspiration did not have time to evacuate and the soldier had to remain motionless: perfect conditions for shivering...
Their specifications were therefore as clear as they were complicated to implement. To protect them from the cold, they needed something that:
- keeps you warm (the base),
- facilitates mobility, therefore quite compact ,
- resists compression well , especially if you roll the garment in a bag or if you wear a backpack on top,
- breathe when there is movement: excess heat must be evacuated ,
- does not fear humidity and dries quickly.
And that’s how the Polartec Alpha® was born!
The bubbly Brendan Leonard humorously paints a portrait of the Polartec Alpha®, comparing it with the snow owl. This animal maintains its body at 38-40°, even when it is -50 outside.
I was also reassured to see the list of brands using Polartec Alpha®. Let us cite in particular:
-
Arct'eryx Veilance
,
- who used it "in a sandwich" with Schoeller and merino on a vest (more than 400 dollars per piece, on the other hand),
- Sea to Sky ,
- Triple Aught Design , a techwear brand halfway between explorer clothing and an urban spirit,
- Kitsbow , a very nice brand of cycling clothing,
- Millet , Black Yak and Rab , where I can safely say that they are among the best outdoor brands in the world . Here too, that such demanding brands use Polartec Alpha® is a very good sign for me.
But why does it regulate heat and humidity so well?
Usually, synthetic insulation resembles wadding, like cotton used in a pharmacy. These are long cottony filaments, which form a more or less thick material. The problem is that the wadding can sag, spread poorly, be too bulky, etc.
Polartec therefore started from scratch, looking for another path
Here, the filaments are replaced by a very resistant and stable mesh in the garment . There are tiny “hairs” on each side: these are what trap air and keep heat.
And it's the mesh structure that allows perspiration to circulate easily. It is important that Polartec Alpha® dries quickly, because dry air is a much better insulator than humid air!
Since the whole thing is much more compact than cotton wool, this makes it possible to create insulating clothing relatively close to the body .
Polartec made a video of which they have the secret
Turn up the volume for epic music, and you'll want to save the world.
Quilting that doesn't sag
The Polartec Alpha® has another advantage, quite simple for outdoor use but very important on more urban clothing...
Remember, other insulation comes in the form of wadding or feathers. If we place them as is as padding, these insulators sag
But we don't have this problem at all with the Polartec Alpha®! Since it is a very stable mesh, it can be layered very simply - almost like a suit jacket interfacing - without needing to compartmentalize it.
In terms of the exterior appearance, on a “fashion” piece, it changes everything. We have an exterior that looks like a classic jacket, without the down jacket look!
So, what's it like to wear Polartec Alpha®?
That was the big question when I received the first prototype! Indeed, although Polartec is very breathable, on this jacket, it is still fitted below a good old Jules Tournier woolen sheet. So what interested me was compactness.
Well, for the moment, it's a jacket that fulfills its role perfectly . It's nice not to feel too hot as soon as you start walking a little quickly or inside a store, while being protected from the cold when you're sitting outside for example.
What are the limits of this room?
Yes, now and more and more, I want to explain what the limits of a garment are. Because currently, in the jungle of brands that claim to provide ultra-luxury at knockdown prices without intermediaries, a little sincerity and frankness goes a long way!
Not the warmest insulation, but the most versatile
First of all, it doesn't replace a huge down jacket for very cold weather, like Canada Goose .
Quite simply because down is the most insulating thing. But at least there were no mistreated geese in the design of this room!
Moreover, Polartec Alpha® is not intended to be the warmest insulation possible, but rather the one that has the best bulk/warmth/breathability ratio.
They are also very transparent on this subject:
Is Alpha “warmer” than down or synthetic insulation, pound for pound?
Nate Simmons, marketing director of Polartec: " It's not warmer than synthetic insulation, for the same weight. We didn't try to invent a warmer insulation. We tried to invent a more breathable, more breathable insulation. active, and which stores more air.
In the same way that synthetic insulation is not warmer than natural down, but serves other functions.
This versatility allows the Alpha to be suitable for a wider range of activities and weather conditions. This is what makes it good padding under a windproof material, where other padded jackets do not wick away moisture well."
For city use, where you constantly go from hot to cold - while wanting to keep a fitted silhouette - this is precisely what interested me.
In summary...
Outdoor Magic , a great site on outdoor clothing, ends its Polartec Alpha® test with a rather reassuring conclusion... This is what reassured me in the choice of this technology!
Outdoor Magic: " Hmmm, it's ultimately a somewhat magical insulator. Not too hot when you move, not too cold or damp when you stop. This padding is the one we've seen the most this winter, and this is not going to change in the near future.
Is it an insulator? Is it a thermo-regulator? Is it a thermo-regulating insulation? Or mutant stuffing? Or a platypus material that combines all these properties?
You know what ? I don't know anything about it and I don't really care. What really matters is that it works. And it works admirably."
As for the finishes?
The jacket is made in Romania, in our workshop which takes care of our blazers and coats. He is experienced in working with large Jules Tournier wool sheets and our standards:
Fleece lined pockets
As a reminder, I have always deplored viscose lined pockets when it is cold because they do not warm our fingers. As a result, those of the jacket are lined with a small fleece which will keep your hands warm.
Two interior YKK zippered pockets
To store your personal belongings safely, it doesn't matter how you place your jacket on a chair back.
Viscose sleeve lining
An ecological viscose that comes from Italy (many viscoses around the world come from deforestation).
Chambray effect bust lining
The bust lining, with a chambray effect, is made of 63% cotton and 37% polyester. Polyester is essential here for the lining in order to provide resistance to the cotton, which must encapsulate the Polartec Pro. It is made in Romania.
High-end ribbing
The ribbing comes from Action Maille , and it is made in France.
Strong and tight, it won't let you go.
How to wear our thick khaki wool jacket?
The first advantage of a khaki wool jacket is its versatility . Except for sartorial looks, it will fit into almost all your combinations.
By its shape, it is also a coat with a more relaxed feel. Don’t hesitate to play on this when constructing your looks.
We look at some examples together.
With a casual gray shirt and jeans, the jacket easily adds a touch of color that contrasts with the rest without overdoing it. The look remains sufficiently sober, nothing prevents you from adding one or two accessories depending on the "final tone" that you want to give it, like a bag for example. Besides, there is nothing very complicated. It's the kind of look you've already mastered. ( BonneGueule gray speckled shirt , BonneGueule cotton/linen Kurabo jeans , boots purchased at a thrift store)
The collar of the jacket will highlight that of your shirts...
...While remaining perfectly flat at the back.
On the same basis as the previous look, we swap the shirt for a gray merino t-shirt. Immediately, the assembly conveys a more relaxed, simple but effective image. If François chooses to keep his boots for their "adventurer" side, sneakers would be just as appropriate. ( BonneGueule gray merino T-shirt , BonneGueule cotton/linen Kurabo jeans , boots purchased at a thrift store)
Flannel pants, merino sweater and woolen cloth jacket: the outfit to withstand the cold! Jokes aside, although it is indeed made up of three wool pieces, none are worked in the same way: the look is enriched by this contrast. In terms of colors, the khaki goes easily with the burgundy of the sweater. It is, in the same way as gray or blue, a shade which allows you to temper more intense ones. Boots with chunky soles finish the outfit with a workwear touch, but brogues or small white sneakers would also work. ( BonneGueule burgundy merino sweater , BonneGueule houndstooth flannel pants , Grenson boots)
How to get the thick Jules Tournier and Polartec Alpha® wool jacket?
You can order the Jules Tournier pure wool jacket now on the shop !
