Sometimes misunderstood, often criticized, always subject to endless debates: the polo shirt is a garment that does not leave you indifferent...
Because its history and its design have never ceased to shake the collective imagination, this piece unleashes passions and sometimes suffers from connotations that it (supports) carries despite itself.
Today, we are going to look at this iconic piece, from its birth to its current status, to try to understand its DNA.
Let's go!
POLO, A GARMENT BORN UNDER X
Although the history of polo is quite vague, scholars generally agree to date its advent to the end of the 19th century .
In the 19th century, when the British fell in love with this sport, the clothing already had many similarities with the one we know today.
Imagined in India, adopted by British colonists, then reinvented and popularized by French tennis player Jean-René Lacoste in the 1930s, the polo shirt had a winding journey before slipping into our wardrobes .
INDIAN ORIGINS
Despite slight disagreements over dates, the vast majority of sources converge on one point: polo finds its roots in India (then a British colony).
On site, the settlers indulge in the practice of an ancient sport invented by steppe riders
They play there regularly and even practice with certain Indian notables. Among them, the Maharajah of Jodhpur, whose name surely means something to you since he is the inventor of the eponymous riding pants.
A polo team in the 1930s, sporting these famous pants, loose at the thighs and tight at the calf for greater comfort on the mount.
First, they play with a long-sleeved cotton shirt whose collar tends to fly in the wind at the slightest acceleration. As you can imagine, the outfit is not very practical.
Several innovations therefore solve these problems:
- first, the famous Maharajah of Jodhpur decided to rework this garment so that it was more adapted to the movements of the riders: he designed it looser and shortened at the belt level to wear it outside the pants,
- then, the short sleeve gradually replaces the long rolled sleeve ,
- finally, the invention of the button-down secures the collar to the body of the shirt to prevent it from falling apart at the slightest step. Moreover, the original name of the "button-down shirt" is none other than... "the original polo shirt" .
A rather straight cut, short sleeves, airy cotton... the polo shirt as we know it today is starting to take shape and its silhouette is becoming clearer. However, you have to leave India to follow its evolution and return... to France.
THE FRENCH TOUCH
Already in the 20th century, the planet envied France for its vision of elegance and the know-how of its artisans. However, the polo shirt did not come from a major fashion house but from a tennis court .
At the time, the dress code for tennis players was quite strict and particularly classic: flannel pants and white shirt with long rolled-up sleeves.
A tennis team in 1920: an elegant look but not very functional...
This outfit, chic but uncomfortable, was viable as long as tennis was reserved for a social elite. As soon as it became more popular, the number of challengers increased and performance took precedence over tradition .
The pioneer of this revolution? Jean-René Lacoste.
If you saw
A true precursor, the world number one at the time was inspired by the polo shirt and imagined an alternative to the shirt to increase comfort and range of movement .
He had a white “shirt” made of pique cotton, surrounded by a ribbed collar rigid enough not to flutter.
The crocodile appears for the first time on Jean-René Lacoste's blazer. It will then migrate to its polo shirt.
The myth of the crocodile, a logo that we gradually see flourishing on Jean-René Lacoste polo shirts, is particularly compelling. I'll give you the anecdote that the main person liked to tell:
The American press nicknamed me “The Crocodile” following a bet I made with the Captain of the French Davis Cup team. He promised me a crocodile suitcase if I won an important match for our team. The American public remembered this nickname which underlined the tenacity I demonstrated on the tennis courts, never letting go of my prey! My friend Robert George then drew me a crocodile which was embroidered on the blazer I wore on the courts.
Struck by chronic bronchitis, Lacoste must take
Together, they founded “The Lacoste Shirt Company” and marketed the first polo model in 1933 . This is the famous L.12.12, the sketch of which can be seen below.
Sketch of the first Lacoste polo shirt.
L for Lacoste, 1 for the material
The polo saga will experience its glory days following this collaboration between the athlete René Lacoste and the polytechnician André Gillier (also inventor of kangaroo briefs). The success was immediate, notably thanks to the visibility offered by advertising, and the polo shirt quickly became a must-have for athletes.
Sober and timeless, it is dressier than the t-shirt while remaining less formal than the shirt . Its pique cotton knit is breathable and robust, its collar gives it a chic side, its short ribbed sleeves and its fall at the waist combine everyday comfort and elegance .
No wonder, therefore, that he is gradually joining the “non-sporting” locker room. The wide color variation, assumed by Lacoste, accompanies this period of transition as well as its export across the Atlantic.
In the 1950s, North America (in full economic expansion) fell in love with this piece and marketed it widely in high-end boutiques. We see it even on the shoulders of the United States president at the time, Dwight Eisenhower.
Sport(s) and polo have always been closely linked...
GROWTH OF COMPETITION
Quickly becoming cult, the Lacoste polo shirt saw competition grow and other brands appropriate the piece.
In the 1950s, Fred Perry (English tennis player) played the British class card
This one, whose logo is embroidered directly on the cotton, adorns the vast majority of tennis players of the time, but also the greats of this world. It is even said that she was one of the favorites of American President John Fitzgerald Kennedy.
Why look towards the White House? After all, our heads of state also know how to master style!
Isn't that Mr Chirac?
This period marks the advent of the sportswear movement , which takes athletes' outfits off the courts and fields.
Increasingly, sportswear is becoming an integral part of dressier outfits and bringing a casual touch. This bias is reminiscent of the preppy style, very widespread in North American universities.
Obviously, many brands smell the opportunity and integrate the polo shirt into their collections . Fila with Björn Borg, Sergio Tacchini with John McEnroe, Le Coq Sportif with Yannick Noah, Nike with André Agassi then Roger Federer: the brands are one by one taking ownership of the famous pique cotton and promoting it by putting it on the shoulders of tennis legends.
Björn Borg, Swedish monument to world tennis, wears a striped Fila polo shirt with a contrasting collar here.
Beyond sport, I said, polo is taking over the racks of more classic brands . In 1972, Ralph Lauren opened the dance and launched a casual line, aptly titled "polo" and stamped with the famous rider logo, thus continuing to democratize this garment.
In 1987, the polo shirts of the Hackett polo team (excuse the redundancy) became so popular that they were distributed in stores...
For the record, the Hackett polo team was formed when the brand was contacted by two army officers looking for sponsors in 1987.
Hugo Boss, Façonnable, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Original Penguin's, Vicomte Arthur, Armani... the list is long and today it is difficult to find a brand that does not offer a polo shirt in its collections.
Original ribbed edges or not, short or long sleeves, very visible or invisible logo, contrasting collar or not, sober or ostentatious patterns and colors... the brands are jockeying to stand out and dominate the market, but the Jean spirit -René Lacoste remains very significant.
Over the course of interpretations, the polo shirt has reached the number 1 rank of casual elegance , often associated with the “weekend” piece par excellence.
POLO TODAY
Over the years, polo has experienced several difficulties which have put it in danger:
- First, the polo shirt suffered from its political appropriation : in the United Kingdom of the 1960s, the "modernists" affirmed their marginalization, among other things, by a crew cut and a clothing style whose laurel wreath of Fred Perry became the symbol. Later, the mods split into small groups of the extreme left (antifascists) and the extreme right (skinheads), which seriously harmed the brand and the clothing. The tragic death of Clément Méric, whose protagonists came from a private Fred Perry/Ben Sherman womb, constitutes the high point of these political tensions in the midst of which polo found itself caught in a storm despite itself.
Fred Perry suffered greatly from his success with small extremist groups.
- Then, counterfeiting disrupted the market for this garment . Last March, the General Directorate of French Customs produced a record report on the number of seizures in 2016 (more than 9 million copies recorded). Well ahead of shoes, cell phones and toys, clothing represents 15% of fixed assets. If the luxury sector is particularly affected by this scourge, polo shirts are not spared.
Who has never been offered an authentic Lacoste polo shirt for €6.50 on the French Riviera? However, you must be vigilant because not all counterfeits are necessarily obvious. Pay attention to the seams and labels, the fit of the collar, the buttons...
- Finally, the polo shirt (especially Lacoste) suffered for a time from being the favorite garment of young people from the suburbs in France. This image stuck with him for a moment before fading quite naturally.
However, the image of this coin appears completely intact today , and neither its legend nor its port seem impacted by these disturbances.
Indeed, it remains a popular item, more dressy than the tee while being less so than the shirt, symbol of casual chic.
For a Sunday barbecue with the family or to have a drink on your yacht, “Wolf of Wall Street” style, the polo shirt is your best ally.
Today, it occupies a place of choice with the brands mentioned above, but also at Gant , De Fursac and Hermès...
Sometimes
With the light, you can clearly see the details of the weaving. We also notice a material that is a little too thin...
To recognize good stitching, it is important to notice a certain thickness of material, although some summer fabrics are designed to be lighter.
The weave must be extremely regular and tight . The most effective way to do this test is simply to bring it to light:
Here, in bright light, the thickness of the sharpness appears clearly.
If you are less psychorigid than me, you can opt for a cotton jersey material which will be smoother but also more original on this type of piece.
Another alternative: the knitted polo shirt. More textured, these pieces are also rarer because they are relatively out of fashion.
Depending on your style, they can nevertheless play a fairly strong role as their design can be powerful.
Here, a burgundy knitted model with a burgundy pattern from Gabicci Vintage. Relatively difficult to wear at first glance...
ESSENTIAL DETAILS
Beyond the material, a quality polo shirt stands out thanks to the presence of certain absolutely crucial details.
A COLLAR THAT STANDS
Here, we cannot compromise: the fit of the collar must be impeccable !
In particular, make sure that it is
You have to be very careful about this detail because, in the long term, collars - and sleeve edges - that are too thin end up twisting. They then present a very inelegant undulation.
CLEAN, REGULAR AND PRECISE CONFECTION
Theoretically, assembling the polo shirt is quite simple. It is therefore relatively easy to check whether it has been carried out correctly.
Inside, two elements guarantee the quality of the assembly: regularity and above all
There may be a few threads sticking out, or even a slightly rough appearance: the main thing is that the outer joint remains neat even under tension.
Even when stretching the fabric, the side seam on the sides does not move.
If the seam is insufficiently strong,
More generally, this remark applies to
At the collar in particular, we frequently see a border placed inside (or even outside) the polo shirt to hide a thick seam,
A very tight and regular overlock.
PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN CURE
Because forewarned is forearmed, I will provide you with some additional details on which you can focus in order to better judge the quality of a polo shirt:
- The buttonhole : usually superimposes 2 button tabs 15, that is to say between 2 and 4 layers of fabric (when these inserts are double-sided). Excess material means risk of weakening of the finest parts. So be careful that the corners of the tab do not alter the material at the angles.
As we see here, the risk is that the thickness and weight of the material will deteriorate the stitching at the corners of the tab. When purchasing, make sure that the cotton is sufficiently robust in this area.
- Reinforcements : are almost essential on models that have side slits. Indeed, friction and tension can weaken the material, or even lead to tearing. Reinforcement placed inside will protect the room in the long term and prevent this risk.
On this Vicomte A polo shirt, the reinforcement is even visible and contrasting.
- Buttons : are also a good indicator. As you know, we prefer them cross-stitched for greater life expectancy. In the same way, we will favor mother-of-pearl or horn buttons as much as possible over their plastic cousins. I also advise you to test the buttonhole to ensure that its tenants do not open unexpectedly 16...
A CUT ADAPTED TO YOUR MORPHOLOGY
How to choose your polo shirt based on your body type? This is the question we are interested in here.
IF YOU ARE RATHER THIN
If you are skinny, thin or thin, finding a well-cut polo shirt suited to your build can be scary. However, this piece offers many possibilities and you will have no trouble finding what you are looking for among the dozens of fits on the market!
If a garment that is too close to the body would be inappropriate, you can definitely opt for a slightly fitted cut to show off your appearance.
Little tip: you will enhance your shoulders more by buttoning the collar all the way to the top.
Don't deny yourself a polo shirt just because you're slim. A lightly fitted polo shirt (Uniqlo here) buttoned all the way to the top will fit very well into most of your looks.
IF YOU HAVE AN AVERAGE BODY
You're starting to get used to it: you can wear everything! As long as you choose the right size , all the models will suit you and you will only have to shop according to your style.
For a casual look, a polo shirt with a classic fitted cut will do the job very well. It will dress you while providing you with optimal comfort and absolute freedom of movement.
The slim fit can also serve this type of outfit, while flattering your bust and shoulders. If you are muscular and "lean", a fitted polo shirt will highlight your build, especially if you opt for plain. Be careful, however: the garment must hug your curves without constricting you.
The difference between a fitted polo shirt and one that is too tight is sometimes slight, but the contrast is obvious here.
The polo shirt can also be a partner of choice if you are a fan of more sophisticated looks. For example, Lacoste : it's hard to miss the crocodile brand. An everyday garment that ensures elegance, comfort and simplicity,
Note from Benoît: while we're at it, if you want Lacoste, I find that Fred Perry : another juggernaut in the world of polo, both in terms of its history and its timeless design,
Daniel Craig, aka 007, wears a Sunspel polo shirt in the movie Casino Royale. A navy “Riviera” model.
Obviously, you will also find what you are looking for at Gant , Boggi , Loro Piana , Gutteridge and many others...
HOW TO WEAR IT?
It's all well and good to know the history of the polo shirt and to know where to get it, but... how do you wear it?
IN A CASUAL LOOK
By nature, almost by essence, the polo shirt is a piece that fits perfectly into a casual outfit . Dressier than a t-shirt and more comfortable than a shirt, it exudes relaxation and will go perfectly with your raw jeans, bleaches, shorts and chinos.
In the series Mad Men, Jon Hamm wears a blue polo shirt over Prince of Wales pants, in a pure casual look (for the time). In the background, we can even see a guest wearing his with fairly short shorts.
More contemporary, this casual look by Mariano Di Vaio is also easier to wear. Gray Lacoste polo shirt in pique cotton, light rolled jeans, low sneakers: a balanced outfit enhanced by a slightly more textured blue jacket.
For a more casual chic look, opt for a polo shirt (possibly decorated with patterns like here), chinos and a well-cut blazer. At the bottom, we will favor light sneakers.
IN A DRESSY LOOK
The polo shirt fits perfectly into a slightly more formal outfit , and even brings a very nice little smart effect. It can be worn alone or under a suit jacket since its collar brings sophistication tinged with lightness.
Whether worn alone with linen pants and moccasins or under a navy jacket, the polo shirt dresses its wearer while clearly pushing the trend of relaxation.
Benoît asked me to tell you: make sure that the collar of your polo shirt is placed correctly between
If you take off the jacket, on the other hand, you can easily wear the polo shirt with this type of shoes, as long as they are impeccable.
For this type of look, prefer “smooth” pieces, the outfit being already sufficiently elaborate elsewhere. On the outfit on the left, a cotton polo shirt over linen pants in such a formal outfit would probably have been too heavy in terms of materials.
Again in Mad Men (we see the popularity of the polo shirt in the United States in the 60's), Don Draper shows us the way with an unbuttoned midnight blue piece under an anthracite jacket. Ideal for staying dressed even on weekends.
If you are afraid of making a mistake, take inspiration from this outfit which presents no risk. Impeccably tailored blue suit, open white polo shirt, low-top sneakers... a foolproof, simple and effective combo. Needless to say, we leave the tie in the locker room with this type of top whose collar is not at all intended to accommodate a neck accessory, whatever it may be. PS: this combination also works with a gray suit!
MORE DARE LOOK
Note from Benoît: I strongly encourage you to look at polo shirts from high-end brands, it is very interesting to see how a designer manages to infuse creativity through a piece which is, basically, very refined.
It is true that designers sometimes let loose on the polo shirt... On the left, Prada works it oversized while on the right, Ana Locking prefers to play with materials and textures with a top woven from different materials.
Etro polo shirts, with their garish colors and paisley patterns, demonstrate the desire that certain designers have to reappropriate this so “wise” piece.
In the same vein, the Gucci "Bengal" range is not necessarily the easiest to wear for a novice audience... nor the most accessible!
You see: it's easy to find fancy polo shirts that will easily liven up your outfits if you consider them too plain. Bright colors, original patterns, atypical details, so many elements you can rely on to assert your style without taking unnecessary risks.
BE CAREFUL OF MISTAKES
When wearing a polo shirt, there are certain pitfalls that you should avoid as much as possible. Among them :
- The polo shirt tucked into the pants . If you don't have a jacket on top, leave your polo shirt out in the open: it's a loose piece. Its short cut is intended so that it does not fall much lower than the belt and, like a casual shirt, it is designed to live life. It is a piece that does not tolerate captivity well.
No.
- Layering of pieces . If layering is good, it also offers its share of strangeness: this is the case with this trend which consists of stacking polo shirts. If the idea is attractive, the result is much less so. I advise you against it.
Neither.
- The collar raised . If Jean-René Lacoste raised his collar on the tennis courts to protect his neck from sunburn, I would be grateful if you did not imitate him when you walk in the street. If you are not Eric Cantona, your collar must be lowered and rigid enough to show a good outfit.
Polo too small tucked into the pants, curled and raised collar, unbuttoned as desired... you have here the maxi best of menu of bad taste.
- The underwear . If you can put one or more layers on top of your polo shirt, you cannot under any circumstances put one underneath. The polo shirt constitutes the base layer, in direct contact with the skin. Forget the long-sleeved t-shirt/polo combo that ruined our college years!
Reassure me... you too have ruled the playground with this famous look, right?
These are the most obvious and frequent errors. However, I can never repeat it enough: these are general rules but not universal!
Depending on your style, you are completely free to deviate from these... if you are confident enough to do so 😉
THE FINAL WORD
A design known to all, rather vague origins claimed here and there, a history full of twists and turns and diverse and varied stylistic (even political) appropriations: these are the ingredients that have made the polo shirt such a special piece.
A true survivor in the world of fashion, the polo shirt has withstood all crises, survived ridicule and survived despite more or less justified connotations.
Everything that doesn't kill you makes you stronger, it seems, and it is therefore not surprising to see that this legendary garment is today a must-have in the men's wardrobe.
And you ? What do you think of this iconic piece? How do you wear your polo shirt? We want to know everything !
HOW TO CHOOSE IT?
We have scrutinized its origins, we have scoured its history, we have studied its influences... let us now focus on more pragmatic questions: which material to favor? what details to expect? which cut to favor?
THE MATERIAL
Can you imagine jeans in a fabric other than denim? No ? Me neither. In the same way, an authentic polo shirt is a cotton pique polo shirt!
For me, the historical and emotional charge is too important to buy a polo shirt in another material. It is robust, elegantly textured and constitutes the soul of the classic polo shirt.
Far from being rigid and cardboard, this type of knitting requires a significant quantity of cotton given the complexity of its production : it alternates stretched threads and loose threads, totaling 2 weave threads and 2 weft threads, i.e. 4 threads for one point.