Sometimes misunderstood, often criticized, always the subject of endless debate: the polo shirt is a garment that does not leave you indifferent...
Because its history and design have never ceased to shake the collective imagination, this piece unleashes passions and sometimes suffers from connotations that it (sup)ports in spite of itself.
Today, we are going to look at this iconic piece, from its birth to its current status, to try to understand its DNA.
Let's go!
THE POLO SHIRT, A GARMENT BORN UNDER X
Although the history of polo is rather vague, the doctrine generally agrees to date its advent to the end of the 19th century .
In the 19th century, when the British fell in love with this sport, the garment already had many similarities to the one we know today.
Imagined in India, adopted by British colonists, then reinvented and popularized by French tennis player Jean-René Lacoste in the 1930s, the polo shirt had a winding journey before slipping into our wardrobes .
OF INDIAN ORIGINS
Despite slight disagreements over dates, the vast majority of sources agree on one point: polo has its roots in India (then a British colony).
There, the settlers indulge in the practice of an ancient sport invented by the horsemen of the steppes of Central Asia: polo .
They play there regularly and even practice with some Indian notables. Among them, the Maharajah of Jodhpur, whose name surely means something to you since he is the inventor of the eponymous riding pants.
A polo team in the 1930s, sporting those famous pants that are loose at the thighs and tight at the calf for added comfort on the horse.
At first, they play with a long-sleeved cotton shirt whose collar tends to fly in the wind at the slightest acceleration. As you can imagine, the outfit is not very practical.
Several innovations therefore resolve these problems:
- First, the famous Maharajah of Jodhpur decided to rework this garment so that it was better adapted to the movements of the riders: he designed it looser and shortened at the belt to wear it outside the trousers,
- then, the short sleeve gradually replaces the long rolled sleeve ,
- Finally, the invention of the button-down fastens the collar to the body of the shirt to prevent it from running away at the slightest stride. Moreover, the original name of the "button-down shirt" is none other than... "the original polo shirt" .
A rather straight cut, short sleeves, airy cotton... the polo shirt as we know it today is therefore beginning to take shape and its silhouette is becoming clearer. However, we have to leave India to follow its evolution and return... to France.
THE FRENCH TOUCH
In the 20th century, the world was already jealous of France for its vision of elegance and the know-how of its artisans. However, the polo shirt did not come out of a great fashion house but from a tennis court .
At the time, the dress code for tennis players was quite strict and particularly classic: flannel pants and a white shirt with long rolled-up sleeves.
A tennis team in 1920: an elegant look but not very functional...
This chic but uncomfortable outfit was viable as long as tennis was reserved for a social elite. As it became more democratic, the number of challengers increased and performance took precedence over tradition .
The pioneer of this revolution? Jean-René Lacoste.
If you've seen the latest Lacoste ad , you'll know it: the French tennis player is considered the true inventor of the polo shirt . Beyond the umbilical cord that links this garment to tennis(men), we see in this video the innovations that we owe to Jean-René Lacoste.
A true pioneer, the world number one of the time took inspiration from the Polo shirt and imagined an alternative to the shirt that would increase comfort and range of movement .
He had a white "shirt" made in pique cotton, with a ribbed collar that was stiff enough not to flap around as he moved . He wore it for the first time in 1926, at the Australian Open.
The crocodile first appeared on Jean-René Lacoste's blazer. It would later migrate to his polo shirt.
The myth of the crocodile, a logo that we are gradually seeing bloom on Jean-René Lacoste's polo shirts, is particularly juicy. I'll give you the anecdote that the main person concerned liked to tell:
The American press nicknamed me "The Crocodile" after a bet I made with the Captain of the French Davis Cup Team. He promised me a crocodile suitcase if I won an important match for our team. The American public remembered this nickname which highlighted the tenacity I showed on the tennis courts, never letting go of my prey! My friend Robert George then drew me a crocodile which was embroidered on the blazer I wore on the courts.
Struck by chronic bronchitis, Lacoste had to retire prematurely , but his meeting with the entrepreneur André Gillier proved decisive .
Together, they founded "La Société chemise Lacoste" and marketed the first polo shirt model in 1933. This was the famous L.12.12, the sketch of which can be seen below.
Sketch of the first Lacoste polo shirt.
L for Lacoste, 1 for the exclusive material for the era 5, 2 for the short-sleeved prototype and 12 for the number of the version chosen by the ex-tennis player.
The polo saga would experience its glory days following this collaboration between the athlete René Lacoste and the polytechnician André Gillier (also the inventor of the kangaroo briefs). The success was immediate, notably thanks to the visibility offered by advertising, and the polo quickly became a must-have among athletes.
Simple and timeless, it is more dressy than the T-shirt while remaining less formal than the shirt . Its pique cotton knit is breathable and robust, its collar gives it a chic side, its short ribbed sleeves and its fall at the belt level combine comfort and elegance on a daily basis .
It is therefore not surprising that it is gradually joining the wardrobe of "non-sportsmen". The wide range of colours, assumed by Lacoste, accompanies this period of transition as well as its export across the Atlantic.
In the 1950s, North America (in full economic expansion) fell in love with this piece and marketed it widely in high-end boutiques. We see it even on the shoulders of the American president of the time, Dwight Eisenhower.
Sport(s) and polo have always been closely linked...
GROWTH OF COMPETITION
Quickly becoming a cult item, the Lacoste polo shirt saw competition grow and other brands take over the piece.
In the 1950s, Fred Perry (English tennis player) played the British class card against French elegance and launched his eponymous polo shirt brand.
This one, whose logo is embroidered directly on the cotton, dresses the vast majority of tennis players of the time, but also the greats of this world. It is even said that it was one of the favorites of the American president John Fitzgerald Kennedy.
Why look to the White House? After all, our heads of state also know how to handle style with mastery!
Isn't that right, Mr. Chirac?
This period marks the advent of the sportswear movement , which involves the outfits of athletes off the courts and fields.
Increasingly, sportswear is an integral part of more formal outfits and brings a touch of casualness. This bias is reminiscent of the preppy style, very widespread in North American universities.
Of course, many brands are sensing the opportunity and are integrating the polo shirt into their collections . Fila with Björn Borg, Sergio Tacchini with John McEnroe, Le Coq Sportif with Yannick Noah, Nike with André Agassi and then Roger Federer: the brands are appropriating the famous pique cotton one by one and promoting it by putting it on the shoulders of tennis legends.
Björn Borg, Swedish tennis icon, is seen here wearing a striped Fila polo shirt with a contrasting collar.
Beyond sport, I said, the polo shirt is investing in the racks of more classic brands . In 1972, Ralph Lauren opened the dance and launched a casual line, aptly titled "polo" and bearing the famous rider logo, thus continuing to democratize this garment.
In 1987, the Hackett polo team's (excuse the redundancy) polo shirts became so popular that they were distributed in stores...
As an aside, the Hackett polo team was formed when the brand was contacted by two army officers looking for sponsors in 1987.
Hugo Boss, Façonnable, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Original Penguin's, Vicomte Arthur, Armani... the list is long and it is now difficult to find a brand that does not offer a polo shirt in its collections.
Original or not ribbed cuffs, short or long sleeves, very visible or invisible logo, contrasting collar or not, sober or ostentatious patterns and colors... the brands jostle to stand out and dominate the market, but the Jean-René Lacoste spirit remains very strong.
Over the course of interpretations, the polo shirt has reached the rank of number 1 in casual elegance , often associated with the quintessential "weekend" piece.
POLO TODAY
Over the years, polo has experienced several difficulties that have put it in danger:
- First, the polo shirt suffered from its political appropriation : in the United Kingdom of the 1960s, the "modernists" asserted their marginalization, among other things, by a close-cropped haircut and a style of dress of which Fred Perry's laurel wreath became the symbol. Later, the mods split into far-left (anti-fascist) and far-right (skinhead) groups, which seriously harmed the brand and the clothing. The tragic death of Clément Méric, whose protagonists came out of a Fred Perry/Ben Sherman private womb, constitutes the high point of these political tensions in the midst of which the polo shirt found itself caught in a storm in spite of itself.
Fred Perry has suffered greatly from his success with extremist groups.
- Then, counterfeiting upset the market for this clothing . Last March, the French General Directorate of Customs drew up a record balance sheet of the number of seizures in 2016 (more than 9 million copies recorded). Well ahead of shoes, mobile phones and toys, clothing represents 15% of fixed assets. If the luxury sector is particularly affected by this scourge, polo shirts are not spared.
Who has never been offered an authentic Lacoste polo shirt for €6.50 on the Côte d'Azur? However, you have to be careful because not all counterfeits are necessarily obvious. Pay attention to the seams and labels, the hold of the collar, the buttons...
- Finally, the polo shirt (especially Lacoste) suffered for a time from being the favorite garment of young people from the suburbs in France. This image stuck to it for a while before fading quite naturally.
However, the image of this coin appears completely intact today , and neither its legend nor its wearing appear to be impacted by these disturbances.
Indeed, it remains a popular item, more formal than the tee while being less so than the shirt, a symbol of casual chic.
For a Sunday barbecue with the family or for a drink on your yacht in the style of "The Wolf of Wall Street", the polo shirt is your best friend.
Today, it occupies a prominent place alongside the brands mentioned above, but also at Gant , De Fursac and Hermès...
Sometimes available in jersey or poplin and revisited as desired, it now constitutes a secure base from which designers can express their creativity (while ensuring certain commercial success).
With the light, we can clearly see the details of the weaving. We also notice a material that is a little too fine...
To recognize a good pique, it is important to note a certain thickness of material, although some summer fabrics are designed to be lighter.
The weave must be extremely regular and tight . The most effective way to do this test is simply to hold it up to the light:
Here, in full light, the thickness of the sharpness is clearly visible.
If you are less rigid than me, you can opt for a cotton jersey material which will be smoother but also more original on this type of piece.
Another alternative: the knitted polo shirt. More textured, these pieces are also rarer because they are relatively out of fashion.
Depending on your style, they can nevertheless play a fairly strong role as their design can be powerful.
Here, a knitted burgundy pattern from Gabicci Vintage. Relatively difficult to wear at first glance...
THE ESSENTIAL DETAILS
Beyond the material, a quality polo shirt is noticeable thanks to the presence of certain absolutely crucial details.
A PASS THAT STANDS
Here, there is no room for compromise: the collar must be im-pec-able !
In particular, make sure that it is thick and rigid enough to display a nice curve that naturally follows the line of your shoulders. By pinching the collar and pulling lightly on it, you should feel resistance, a sign of reliability.
You have to be very careful about this detail because, in the long run, collars - and sleeve edges - that are too thin end up twisting. They then present a very inelegant undulation.
CLEAN, REGULAR AND PRECISE CONFECTION
Theoretically, the assembly of the polo shirt is quite simple. It is therefore relatively easy to check whether it has been done well.
Inside, two elements guarantee the quality of the assembly: the regularity and above all the solidity of the overlock seams joining the front and back of the garment.
There may be a few threads sticking out, or even a slightly rough appearance: the main thing is that the outer joint remains clean even under tension.
Even when stretching the fabric, the side seam at the flanks does not move.
If the seam is not strong enough, there is a risk that the bending and cutting will loosen in an unsightly manner.
More generally, this remark applies toall seams, the robustness of which is essential for the polo shirt to hold up well.
At the collar in particular, we often see a border placed on the inside (or even outside) of the polo shirt to hide a thick seam, ensuring good support .
A tight and regular overlock.
PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN CURE
Because forewarned is forearmed, I'll give you a few additional details that you can consider in order to better judge the quality of a polo shirt:
- The buttonhole : usually superimposes 2 buttonhole tabs 15, that is to say between 2 and 4 thicknesses of fabric (when these panels are double-sided). Who says excess material says risk of weakening the thinnest parts. So be careful that the corners of the tab do not alter the material at the corners.
As seen here, the risk is that the thickness and weight of the material will damage the stitching at the corners of the placket. So when purchasing, make sure that the cotton is sufficiently robust in this area.
- Reinforcements : are almost essential on models that have side slits. Indeed, friction and tension can weaken the material, or even lead to tearing. A reinforcement placed on the inside will protect the part for a long time and prevent this risk.
On this Vicomte A polo shirt, the reinforcement is even visible and contrasting.
- Buttons : are also a good indicator. As you know, we prefer them sewn crosswise for a longer life expectancy. In the same way, we will favor mother-of-pearl or horn buttons as much as possible compared to their plastic cousins. I also advise you to test the buttonhole to make sure that its tenants do not open unexpectedly 16...
A CUT ADAPTED TO YOUR BODY SHAPE
How to choose your polo shirt according to your body shape? This is the question we are interested in here.
IF YOU ARE RATHER THIN
If you are thin, slim or not very thick, finding a well-cut polo shirt that fits your build can be scary. However, this piece offers many possibilities and you will have no trouble finding what you are looking for among the dozens of fits that the market offers!
While a garment that is too tight would be inappropriate, you can definitely opt for a slightly fitted cut to show off your best features.
Little tip: you will enhance your shoulders even more by buttoning the collar all the way up.
Don't deny yourself a polo shirt just because you're slim. A slightly fitted polo shirt (Uniqlo here) buttoned all the way up will fit in very well with most of your looks.
IF YOU HAVE AN AVERAGE BODY
You're starting to get used to it: you can wear anything! As long as you choose the right size , all the models will fit you and you'll just have to shop according to your style.
For a casual look, a polo shirt with a classic fitted cut will do the trick. It will dress you up while providing you with optimal comfort and absolute freedom of movement.
The slim fit can also serve this type of outfit, while flattering your bust and shoulders. If you are muscular and "dry", a fitted polo shirt will highlight your build, especially if you opt for solid color. Be careful though: the garment must hug your curves without being too tight.
The difference between a fitted polo shirt and a tight polo shirt is sometimes slight, but the contrast is stark here.
The polo shirt can also be a partner of choice if you are a fan of more sophisticated looks. For example, Lacoste : it is difficult to miss the crocodile brand. An everyday garment that ensures elegance, comfort and simplicity,
Note from Benoît: while we're at it, if you want Lacoste, I think Fred Perry is another behemoth in the polo world, both in terms of its history and its timeless design. MR Editions : although expensive, the polo shirts from the ex-Melinda Gloss are quite pretty with their real horn buttons. I particularly like their very original ribbed knit,
Daniel Craig, aka 007, wears a Sunspel polo shirt in the movie Casino Royale. A navy "Riviera" model.
Of course, you will also find what you are looking for at Gant , Boggi , Loro Piana , Gutteridge and many others...
HOW TO WEAR IT?
It's all well and good knowing the history of the polo shirt and where to get one, but... how do you wear it?
IN A CASUAL LOOK
By nature, almost by essence, the polo shirt is a piece that fits perfectly into a casual outfit . More dressy than the T-shirt and more comfortable than the shirt, it exudes relaxation and will go perfectly with your raw jeans, bleaches, shorts and chinos.
In the series Mad Men, Jon Hamm wears a blue polo shirt over Prince of Wales pants, in a pure casual look (for the time). In the background, we can even make out a guest who is wearing his with fairly short shorts.
More contemporary, this casual look by Mariano Di Vaio is also easier to wear. Grey Lacoste polo shirt in pique cotton, rolled-up light jeans, low sneakers: a balanced outfit enhanced by a slightly more textured blue jacket.
For a more casual chic look, opt for a polo shirt (possibly decorated with patterns like here), chinos and a well-cut blazer. On the bottom, opt for light sneakers.
IN A DRESSED LOOK
The polo shirt fits perfectly into a more formal outfit , and even brings a very nice smart effect. It can be worn alone or under a suit jacket since its collar brings a sophistication tinged with lightness.
Whether worn alone with linen pants and loafers or under a navy jacket, the polo shirt dresses its wearer while clearly pushing the casualness slider.
Benoît asked me to tell you: make sure that the collar of your polo shirt is correctly placed between the lapels of your jacket . In addition, choose to wear sneakers that will echo the "relaxed" image of the polo shirt. The suit + polo shirt + dress shoes combo is much more difficult to assume because the mix of genres can quickly sound like a false note.
If you take off your jacket, however, you can easily wear a polo shirt with this type of shoe, provided they are impeccable.
For this type of look, prefer "smooth" pieces, the outfit being already sufficiently elaborate elsewhere. In the outfit on the left, a pique cotton polo shirt over linen pants in such a dressy outfit would probably have been too heavy in terms of materials.
Again in Mad Men (we see the popularity of the polo shirt in the United States in the 60s), Don Draper shows us the way with a midnight blue piece unbuttoned under a charcoal jacket. Ideal for staying dressed even on weekends.
If you're afraid of making a faux pas, take inspiration from this outfit that presents no risk. Impeccably tailored blue suit, open white polo shirt, low-top sneakers... a foolproof, simple and effective combo. Needless to say, leave your tie in the locker room with this type of top whose collar is not at all intended to accommodate a neck accessory, whatever it may be. PS: this combination also works with a gray suit!
MORE DARING LOOK
Note from Benoît: I strongly encourage you to look at polo shirts from high-end brands, it is very interesting to see how a designer manages to breathe creativity into a piece that is, at its core, very refined.
It's true that designers sometimes let loose with the polo shirt... On the left, Prada works it oversized while on the right, Ana Locking prefers to play on materials and textures with a top woven from different materials.
Etro polo shirts, with their garish colours and paisley patterns, demonstrate the desire of some designers to re-appropriate this very "sensible" piece.
In the same vein, the Gucci "Bengal" range is not necessarily the easiest to wear for a novice audience... nor the most accessible!
You see: it's easy to find fancy polo shirts that will easily brighten up your outfits if you find them too plain. Bright colors, original patterns, unusual details, so many elements on which you can rely to assert your style without taking any unnecessary risks.
BEWARE OF FALSE STEPS
When wearing a polo shirt, there are certain pitfalls that should be avoided as much as possible. Among them:
- The polo shirt tucked into the pants . If you don't have a jacket on top, leave your polo shirt out in the open: it's a de-con-trac-ted piece. Its short cut is designed so that it doesn't fall much lower than the belt and, like a casual shirt, it's designed to live its life. It's a piece that doesn't cope well with captivity.
No.
- Layering pieces . While layering has its good points, it also offers its share of oddities: this is the case with this trend that consists of stacking polo shirts. While the idea is appealing, the result is much less so. I advise against it.
Neither.
- The collar up . If Jean-René Lacoste raised his collar on the tennis courts to protect his neck from sunburn, I would be grateful if you would not imitate him when you walk down the street. If you are not Eric Cantona, your collar should be down and stiff enough to show off your outfit.
A polo shirt that's too small and tucked into your pants, a collar that's curled up and turned up, unbuttoned as desired... you have here the maxi best of bad taste menu.
- The undershirt . While you can wear one or more layers over your polo shirt, you can never wear one underneath. The polo shirt is the base layer, in direct contact with the skin. So forget the long-sleeved t-shirt/polo shirt combo that ruined our college years!
Reassure me... you too ruled the playground with that famous look, right?
These are the most obvious and common mistakes. However, I can never repeat it enough: these are general rules but not universal!
Depending on your style, you are totally free to deviate from these... if you are confident enough to take it on 😉
THE FINAL WORD
A design known to all, rather vague origins claimed here and there, a history full of twists and turns and various stylistic (even political) appropriations: these are the ingredients that have made the polo shirt such a special piece.
A true survivor in the world of fashion, the polo shirt has resisted all crises, survived mockery and persisted despite more or less justified connotations.
Apparently, what doesn't kill you makes you stronger, so it's no surprise that this legendary garment is now a must-have in the men's wardrobe.
And you? What do you think of this iconic piece? How do you wear your polo shirt? We want to know everything!
HOW TO CHOOSE IT?
We have examined its origins, we have scoured its history, we have studied its influences... let us now focus on more pragmatic questions: which material should we favor? what details should we expect? which cut should we favor?
THE MATTER
Can you imagine jeans made of anything other than denim? No? Me neither. In the same way, an authentic polo shirt is a pique cotton polo shirt!
For me, the historical and emotional charge is too great to buy a polo shirt in any other material. This one is robust, elegantly textured and constitutes the soul of the classic polo shirt.
Far from being rigid and cardboard, this type of knitting requires a significant quantity of cotton given the complexity of its production : it alternates between taut threads and free threads, totaling 2 weave threads and 2 weft threads, or 4 threads for one stitch.