To learn the history of the perfecto, two solutions: watch this episode of VIRAL or read this article . Both are possible too. Here is the sequel, with information on how to choose the right beast, and how to wear a perfecto.
A matter of style(s)
Like many classics (trench coat, baseball jacket, etc.), the perfecto has been through the mill of the catwalks, evolving towards various universes. A quick overview of the contemporary variations of the perfecto, then we will finish with advice in terms of choice and association according to your style.
Brief overview of the different forms of the perfecto today...
The legendary pieces
Good basics with Schott, La Canadienne and re Schott. In terms of price, we are here around €300: a minimum for this pillar of your wardrobe.
For beginners or lovers of basics, choose the original . At Schott of course, the first prices are around €400: a reasonable price for leather.
Surprisingly, black is probably the most "trendy" color at the moment. As evidenced by the collections offered by Saint Laurent His Serene Highness Hedi Slimane. But nothing prevents you from opting for a more neutral version, in brown or even camel tones. This is even what we advise you to do. To highlight a raw/rustic side, some brands make their jackets in buffalo: a big brute effect guaranteed.
The perfecto versions in velvet or sheepskin
Canadian, Schott and Blk DNM offer
beautiful velvet versions of the perfecto.
As lovers of beautiful materials, we could not pass up suede, calf or goat leather (the most supple). Much rarer than its dipped counterparts, it allows to considerably soften the "hardness" of the lines of this biker jacket, to which is added an incomparable touch so pleasant.
It is also an interesting counterpoint, characterized by a more luxurious and refined appearance. Be careful, however, remember that this type of leather is very sensitive to stains, requires a lot of maintenance, and must be of very good quality when purchased.
Finally, the winter versions can hide a sartorial treasure: a sheepskin! We love the turned skins for their great warmth, and especially their comfort. To try systematically : depending on the breed of lamb or sheep used, the fur is more or less dense, and can therefore vary the size.
Quilted perfectos
Redskins, Schott and Belstaff: from €200 to €1,800, quilted leather remains accessible to all budgets.
The search for better body protection has given rise to technical jackets, adorned with quilted inserts : the manufacturer slips padding between the exterior and the lining of the coat, in order to absorb the shock in the event of a fall.
The stitching ensured the support and good sheathing of these pieces... before becoming aesthetic details! Classic in grid, straight in line or more worked, the mattresses confer particularly structuring volumes, sometimes to the point of bringing the perfecto towards a very interesting futurism .
Attention when purchasing: make sure that the quilting is well done with clean lines and "full" volumes .
As seen on the Belstaff perfecto, the sleeve inserts are well designed; whereas on the first one, they appear flatter. Especially when they are placed on the forearms, as is the case here. Especially since they will be subjected to all your movements and a certain pressure which risks, in the long term, sagging them a little.
Material variants
For Hoon, The Klosette and (again) Schott, the perfecto is not just leather!
Wool, cotton and even nylon:
a wide choice of alternatives and styles are available to you.
A big trend in recent years, multi-material has also contaminated the perfecto . Most often, it will be a wool and leather fabric, combining matte texture and shiny texture.
Even if we can regret that The Kooples, Sandro and company have appropriated this duo with such fervor, it will be possible to make the difference by the quality of the materials and the care given to the details .
Some go much further than this cohabitation, and choose to purely and simply exclude leather when designing their perfecto! Like The Klosette and Schott, models in gabardine, wool, or like here in fleece and nylon are flourishing . Obviously, this choice blurs the authenticity of the original version, but we gain a more modern approach that is no less interesting!
Dark or destroyed style perfectos
Lots of work on the materials on the “dark” style perfecto.
The "dark" movement channels a whole bunch of inspirations close to streetwear, in a (still) alternative spirit. So, what could be more normal than finding the perfecto revisited by these emblematic designers, such as Rick Owens or CCP.
As a general rule, the silhouette is fitted to the body, and designed in thick, rigid leather: the bust is then masterfully sculpted, and gives the wearer an aggressive look .
Difficult to wear, often very (very) expensive, these pieces are primarily aimed at an expert audience with a wardrobe consistent with this style. Fortunately, more mainstream brands like All Saints also work the perfecto in styles that are certainly destroyed, but with a much more classic cut: for a piece that stands out without "shocking" .
The version of the luxury perfecto
The ultra luxury vision of the perfecto by Belstaff, Gucci and Versace.
Let's end on a "beautiful" note. Obviously, there was no reason why the kings of the catwalks shouldn't have adopted the "rebel touch" of the perfecto. But I chose to show you exceptional pieces, whose materials/cuts are as rare as they are wonderful.
Belstaff, for example, has achieved the feat of creating a fitted perfecto in matte crocodile : this leather, which is extremely complex to work with - due to its hardness and the presence of scales - is absolutely sublime here.
Gucci has bet on an equally capricious and lesser-known material: ostrich leather . As with crocodile, each piece is absolutely unique and has a very special soul: if you have the opportunity, go and look at and even touch these extraordinary skins.
This will certainly make Benoit and Geoffrey smile, amused by my interest in Versace, to end with the perfecto revisited by the peroxided mummified Donatella. If the Italian house flirts far too often with a delirious bad taste, the quality of the realization is however one of the best there is, in particular for the leathers . The very complex "studding" brings an astonishing credibility to a piece which is moreover perfectly cut.
Not forgetting our own jackets...
A big piece has to last over time.
So we made sure to use the best raw materials, and work with the best manufacturers. Take a look:
