To learn the history of the perfecto, there are two solutions: watch this episode of VIRAL or read this article . Both are possible too. Here is the rest, with information on how to choose the right beast, and how to wear a perfecto.
A matter of style(s)
Like many classics (trench, baseball jacket, etc.), the perfecto has been through the catwalk mill, evolving into varied universes. A brief overview of the contemporary variations of the perfecto, then we will end with advice in terms of choice and association according to your style.
Brief overview of the different forms of the perfecto today...
The legendary pieces
Good basics with Schott, La Canadienne and re Schott. In terms of price we are around €300 here: a minimum for this pillar of your wardrobe.
For beginners or lovers of basics, choose the original . At Schott of course, the first prices are around €400: a reasonable price for leather.
Surprisingly, black is undoubtedly the most “trendy” color at the moment. This is evidenced by the collections offered by Saint Laurent His Serene Highness Hedi Slimane. But nothing prevents you from opting for a more neutral version, in brown or even camel tones. This is even what we advise you. To highlight a raw/rustic side, some brands make their jackets in buffalo: a rough effect guaranteed.
Versions of the perfecto in velvet or shearling
La Canadienne, Schott and Blk DNM offer
beautiful velvet version of the perfecto.
As lovers of beautiful materials, we couldn't miss suede, calfskin or goatskin (the most supple). Much rarer than its diving counterparts, it considerably softens the "hardness" of the lines of this biker jacket, to which is added an incomparable, pleasant feel.
It is also an interesting counterpoint, characterized by a more luxurious and refined appearance. Please note, however, that this type of leather is very sensitive to stains, requires a lot of maintenance, and must be of very good quality when purchased.
Finally, the winter versions can hide a sartorial treasure: sheep fur! We love shearlings for their great warmth, and above all their comfort. To try systematically : depending on the breed of lamb or sheep used, the fur is more or less dense, and can therefore vary the size.
Quilted perfectos
Redskins, Schott and Belstaff: from €200 to €1800, quilted leather remains accessible to all budgets.
The search for better body protection has given rise to technical jackets, adorned with quilted inserts : for the manufacturer, this involves slipping padding between the exterior and the lining of the coat, in order to absorb the shock in the event of a fall.
The topstitching ensured the support and good sheathing of these pieces... before becoming aesthetic details! Classic in a grid, straight in a line or more elaborate, the mattresses give particularly structuring volumes, sometimes to the point of bringing the perfecto towards a very interesting futurism .
Be careful when purchasing: ensure that the quilting is well done with very clear lines and very “full” volumes .
As seen on the Belstaff perfecto, the sleeve panels are well designed; whereas on the first, they appear flatter. Especially when they are affixed to the forearms, as is the case here. Especially since they will be subjected to all your movements and to a certain pressure which may, in the long term, cause them to sag a little.
Material variants
For Hoon, The Klosette and (again) Schott, the perfecto is not just leather!
Wool, cotton and even nylon:
a wide choice of alternatives and styles are available to you.
A big trend in recent years, multi-material has also contaminated the perfecto . Most often, it will be a wool and leather sheet, combining a matte texture and a shiny texture.
Even if we can regret that The Kooples, Sandro and company, have appropriated this duo with such fervor, it will be possible to make the difference by the quality of the materials and the attention given to details .
Some go much further than this cohabitation, and choose purely and simply to exclude leather when designing their perfecto! Like The Klosette and Schott, models in gabardine, wool, or like here in fleece and nylon are flourishing . Obviously, this choice blurs the authenticity of the original version, but we gain a more modern approach that is no less interesting!
Dark or destroyed style perfectos
Lots of material work on the “dark” style perfectos.
The “dark” current channels a whole bunch of inspirations close to streetwear, in a (still) alternative spirit. So, what could be more normal than finding the perfecto revisited by these emblematic creators, notably Rick Owens and CCP.
As a general rule, the silhouette is fitted to the body, and designed in thick, rigid leather: the bust is then masterfully sculpted, and gives the wearer an aggressive look .
Difficult to wear, often very (very) expensive, these pieces are primarily aimed at an expert public with a wardrobe consistent with this style. Fortunately, more mainstream brands like All Saints also work on the perfecto in styles that are certainly destroyed, but with a much more classic cut: for a piece that stands out without being "shocking" .
The version of the luxury perfecto
The ultra luxury vision of the perfecto by Belstaff, Gucci and Versace.
Let's end with "beauty". Obviously, there was no reason for the kings of the catwalks not to adopt the "rebel touch" of the perfecto. But I have chosen to show you exceptional pieces, whose materials/cuts are as rare as they are wonderful.
Belstaff, for example, has achieved the feat of creating a fitted perfecto in mast crocodile : this extremely complex leather to work with - due to its hardness and the presence of scales - is absolutely sublime here.
Gucci has focused on an equally capricious and less known material: ostrich leather . As with the crocodile, each piece is absolutely unique and has a very particular soul: if you have the opportunity, go look at and even touch these extraordinary skins.
It will certainly make Benoit and Geoffrey smile, amused by my interest in Versace, to end with the perfecto reviewed by the peroxidized mummified Donatella. If the Italian house flirts far too often with crazy bad taste, the quality of the workmanship is nevertheless one of the best there is, especially for the leathers . The very complex “nailing” brings astonishing credibility to a perfectly cut piece.
Without forgetting our own jackets...
A big piece, it must last over time.
So we made sure to use the best raw materials and work with the best manufacturers. See instead:
