There are some pieces that we own, or that we see on the street, without even paying attention to them. Great classics of men's wardrobe, they are part of our daily lives... but ultimately, what do we really know about these timeless basics? We looked at the case of the perfecto for you! History (told here in VIRAL), specifics, and advice: we tell you everything to (re)discover this legendary jacket.
The initial logo of the perfecto.
$5.50 : this is not the price of a pack of Marlboro in the USA, but that of the first perfecto, created in 1928 . Irving Schott, then a young entrepreneur, received a somewhat special order from a Harley Davidson store: a protective jacket that nevertheless remained faithful to the biker style . Schott is considering a piece of horse leather (very durable), which protects the torso in the event of a fall, while remaining close to the body to prevent air from infiltrating. The result is the one we know today, and which has not aged a bit! The name Perfecto became a registered trademark, inspired by the cigars smoked by Irving Schott.
To better understand, the first part will provide technical insight , while the second will present the different styles of perfecto, and advice for choosing them according to your tastes.
Technical glossary and history of the Perfecto
Schott has very cleverly designed the garment with many specific features that give it its unique style.
Bending
Without being a second skin, the perfecto is one of the most fitted men's pieces there is. We thus obtain a good range of movement at the level of the arms, the armholes being very clear, and of sufficient width so as not to feel trapped in the garment - especially when riding a motorcycle.
Bending of the perfecto.
The asymmetrical zipped closure
Here is THE most striking detail of the perfecto. To protect the bust from falls, the designer had the idea of shifting the closure to the side, so that two sections of leather overlap when closed. This makes bending easier since the zip is offset to the side, but also slightly oblique. The system seems simple, but is really very well thought out.
The neck
As with most crossover pieces (the pea coat, for example), the collar is well structured. More than the classic tailored collar. It would have been very inconvenient for the jacket to close all the way to the neck, especially because of the two leather flaps which could be suffocating. As a result, the leather panels are folded over the chest, completely freeing the neck. In the original version, snaps allow these flaps to be fixed, thus preventing them from floating in all directions during your bike rides.
Open or closed, you can clearly see the asymmetry of the room.
And open, this gives a collar of generous size, very masculine.
The details
Purists will count 4 pockets on the outside. Three of them with zippers (1 on the chest, 2 on the hips), and one with a flap. In addition to being practical, they structure the garment with small metallic touches. The belt finishes the perfecto and, again, has a significant use: keeping the jacket on the trunk, even in a seated position. Finally, small shoulder pads highlight the build to accentuate this V cut.
Points of vigilance and quality criteria for choosing a perfecto
In view of everything we have just seen, one point is absolutely crucial, as is often the case: assembly. Fitted, close to the body, asymmetrical... This complex piece must be well made to avoid folds/tensions in all directions, and I advise you to carefully inspect the seams.
The areas most stressed when wearing will be - as is often the case - the sleeves, the seam of the sides, as well as the seams of the zipper and the central yoke: don't let anything get through these areas !
The thread used must be quite thick, at least thicker than that of your jeans or your shirt. Do not hesitate to stretch the skin (reasonably) by pulling lightly on either side of the seam: if you feel fragility, or points that are moving apart, this is not very encouraging in terms of the quality assembly...
The armhole, the join of the leather on the sides and the closure: sensitive areas that are highly stressed.
If you want to know more, take a quick detour to the article on how to recognize good leather .
Leather: the flagship material of the perfecto
In the vast majority of cases, the perfecto is made of leather. For several reasons, “ethical” in particular, horse or foal leather is less popular, and is very often replaced by leathers such as calfskin or lambskin. Your little sister will thank you.
That said, we also see (although rarely) pieces in buffalo : basically, the leather must be quite thick and rigid, which accentuates the virile aspect of the piece, and counterbalances with the bending.
The advantages of flexibility of other skins (veal, lamb), from younger animals, justify their very wide use. The suppleness of dipped leather, and its very fine grain, are very appreciable qualities, if only in terms of comfort.
From the softest to the stiffest: lamb, horse and buffalo. Notice that the grain is also getting bigger and bigger!
In terms of colors, the offer is largely dominated by black, especially for men . This is of course not prohibitive,/and allows a large number of associations! Enough to take full advantage of what you already have.
Note from Rafik: However, do not hesitate to turn to other skin tones, such as brown or camel, which are very elegant and stand out from the usual black leather. Especially since we do not recommend black clothing for beginners.
Here, the perfecto in menthol color.
What type of body type is the perfecto suitable for?
No need to hide it, the perfecto is a very demanding item . If you are well proportioned, no problem, as always you will be able to put on what you want... For those who are too tall, those who are stocky or those who are short , this can be difficult...
Can we cheat? Yes and no . If you are overweight, you can try a straighter cut, but at the risk of not highlighting the shoulders. Do not count on the “relaxation” of the leather : it risks not being homogeneous and concentrating on the ventral area, resulting in warped and very inelegant leather.
Schott offers here a straight cut, but looser: a godsend for those who cannot afford the fitted cut.
Too tall and thin, you will have to make concessions on the curve in order to obtain the necessary length, and avoid having your navel exposed! On a case-by-case basis, be patient and try different models.
Salvation may perhaps be found among the Italians, renowned for their irrational tendency to over-fit clothing ! We think in particular of Armani which, without having an unbeatable quality/price ratio, designs very (very) fitted pieces. Last option: an excellent seamstress, capable of re-curving the garment at the sides, or moving the closure.
Note from Geoffrey: turn to a specialist leather retoucher (yes, it exists).
Closer to the body: you die!
You will have understood: it's not easy to tame the Perfecto! But again, the advice given here has many twists and turns, so try and don't despair.
And in the rest of this file, we will see what the different styles of perfectos are, and how to choose a perfecto for men.
Without forgetting our own jackets...
A big piece, it must last over time.
So we use thick sheets from wool manufacturer Jules Tournier, a 150-year-old Living Heritage Company located in Tarn, but also the latest textile innovations from technical weavers Schoeller, SympaTex and Polartec.
And that's not all: Kuroki selvedge denim jacket, Italian lamb jackets... we admit, we had fun!
