Why can black become a false friend?
With all due respect to Darth Vader, this nuance is not at all malicious. Let's just say that she has arranged the truth on her CV, convincing many men for the wrong reasons. Especially those who are new to men's fashion or who don't want to spend as much time on it as we do (we understand).
Reason #1: He won't turn us into Johnny Depp every time.
Nor in Idriss Elba. Nor in Keanu Reeves.
Keanu Reeves in the John Wick movies.
Movies, TV and perfume advertising campaigns began misleading us long before we had a say in what we wore to school.
By dint of seeing them worn by icons, black clothes have become synonymous with “hottie”, “sexy”, “charismatic” or even “badass” in our minds. It’s normal that we can turn to this shade when we don’t know where to start, just for safety’s sake.
But as you know, we rarely have an art director, three lighting assistants, a makeup artist, a stylist and a budget of several thousand dollars at our side. If our clothes are not up to par, the result is not either. And it is no more possible to cheat with a black garment than with another color. The cut must be well executed and fit us. The material and the color must be beautiful as well. This is precisely where a black garment can betray us. Because our blind trust can lead us to omit these basics. And if you only wear black, the eyes will linger on the shapes and textures instead. No color will distract next to jeans that are too tight.
My opinion hasn't changed in 17 years of men's fashion: black is for high-end clothing!
In fact, my fear is to have a black fabric that ages badly, becoming dull.”
You’ve probably heard of the cliché of the black shirt. But yes: “Shiny, badly cut and worn by Saturday night flirts.” It’s hanging on a hanger, on the rack of shame in the men’s wardrobe, between two cheap black leathers. These culprits are plastered there to set an example of black clothing that men have put too much faith in.
Our advice for choosing your cuts and materials will therefore be the same as for any color of clothing, but our recommendation for vigilance will be increased. Especially since well-made black clothes are magnificent, so let's do justice to the linen pants, leather shoes and silk shirts (yes!) that adorn this color.
Credit: Scott Fraser.
When you have been passionate about clothing for several years, and your taste and instinct are well developed, of course you can try black pieces. I am thinking of black dress shoes (which will definitely go very well with suits in classic dark-colored fabrics), black sweaters or jeans.”
Reason #2 = Black won’t make your outfits successful every time
We think it goes with everything, so we wear it with everything. We tell ourselves that we're not going to make waves with such a sure thing. That's exactly what's a shame.
You can't completely ruin an outfit with a black garment, but you can make it look plain. It would just coexist with the other shades. Without highlighting them or creating an unpleasant association. Because black is actually an absence of color.
What is black?
You didn't expect to ask yourself this question and yet, it arises because black has a particularity. In addition to discovering it, you will learn how light and colors work. Lucky you.
Let's get the big words out: light is electromagnetic radiation. It is broken down into a spectrum of colors (each corresponding to a wavelength).
Some of these colors can be distinguished by our eyes when they reflect off an object. Together, these distinguished colors give the color we see, while the object absorbs the rest of the spectrum.
An object reflecting the yellow and red parts of the spectrum will therefore appear as yellow (the combination of the two) to our eyes. It will absorb the rest.
And black is a glutton: it absorbs the entire spectrum. Technically, we don't see any color when looking at black. So we can instead talk about nuance.
It's hard to make a more neutral color than one that isn't one. If we randomly place black in our outfit, being convinced that it will necessarily go with the other shades, it will therefore not clash with them. We will not assault any retina like a clown's multi-colored outfit would, but we will not amaze any either.
So let's make black a color that will help our outfits make those waves.
If I was so opposed to black clothing, it was also because of people who were discovering the clothing, they tended to think that “black goes with everything” and to take refuge in it.
But should we never wear black our whole life?
Of course not!”
Level 1: Wear shoes and a black belt
Let's take it step by step. As if we were dipping our toes in a footbath before jumping into the water.
The principles for creating a beautiful outfit
If you're just starting out, here's a cheat sheet to slip into your pen.
When we combine clothes, we want to do good to our retinas as well as to those around us.
To do this, they must first reassure them with harmony and coherence. Cuts, materials and colours whose cohabitation seems natural, because they are close or complement each other.
Our retinas also like it when things are easy to observe. On an outfit, this translates into sets of shapes and colors distributed so that everything is easy to read.
But from ease to boredom, there is only a blink of an eye. So it is also necessary to spice it all up with a fair dose of variety and contrast.
A successful outfit accomplishes all three of these goals, and black can help you achieve them in several ways.
For starters, black shoes can be used to punctuate an outfit that is limited to a single color palette.
You only wear beige tones, you have your consistency. You have three distinct shades, the outfit is readable. But if you go all out with brown shoes, you will lack variety.
So to better entertain the eye, you need contrast. But you want this coherence, which you like as it is. With blue or green shoes, that would be one color direction too many. So you need a neutral pair: black shoes. It could have been white sneakers, but black offers a stronger contrast. And you wanted to entertain.
Credit: Bound.
Another cameo, between brown and greige. The sneakers are there for the same reasons, but with a few extra coherences:
- greige tends towards gray. However, black and gray go very well together (we will see this below).
- The white Adidas stripes subtly echo the white T-shirt collar band that protrudes.
Through these small links, the pair therefore reinforces the harmony of the whole.
Between us, what other color would you have put on your feet? White? The reminder with the top would be predictable, much more obvious than with Adidas or even too much for some. Brown? The shade would be very close to the pants and we said it: with only harmony, we get bored.
The outfit would be beautiful in both cases, but black loafers make it better in our eyes: dark, they blend into the continuity of the pants (harmony) while standing out (variety) and breaking the continuity to give three distinct color zones (readability).
Credit: Walk in Paris.
It's not just beige flannel that will give you the chance to explore these principles. In fact, you'll find that most monochromes benefit greatly from being punctuated with a pair of black shoes.
But our outfits are rarely limited to just one color. When their palette is already full and you, there too, need a neutral pair, black shoes will be there for you too.
A Day's March.
Yes, this outfit would have been very beautiful with brown derbies. A monochrome with the beige mac and even a gradient if we consider the white t-shirt. But with the monochrome of blues, it would make a lot of coherence for little surprise and variety. Solution: black shoes. They catch the eye as much on their own as the rest of the outfit, which creates both balance and contrast.
Same principle: two color directions, gray and brown. The tasseled loafers are already surprising next to the hoodie. So to drive the point home by contrasting with black is to fully assume this stylistic initiative. It works like it worked for students on American campuses. We are served with aesthetic variety and in case of fear for coherence, we can always make a reminder with a dark cap.
Percival Clothing.
You're starting to get the idea: brown shoes? They would be very obvious under those beige pants. You may prefer a neutral, contrasting pair.
@the.manchego on Instagram.
You have a range of shades from beige to burgundy to brown. You've enhanced it with a dark green and even a sky-blue shirt. This boldly varied palette has worked for you so far thanks to its similar shades, so you don't want to go too far either: black loafers. Visually very present without making you take yet another direction.
Black shoes can also help you balance out an outfit by creating a link with other dark and therefore close shades . I'm thinking of charcoal gray but also navy blue which will always go well with it.
Barena Venice.
Here, the connection between the shoes, the belt and the coat consolidates the outfit.
And sometimes your outfit already has all the coherence it needs. The clothes are already linked together and you just need to break it up with contrast.
Brut Clothing.
Here, everything is connected: the white t-shirt, the ecru pants, the white stripes on the shirt and then the sky stripes that provide the transition with the blue jacket. Even the cap and the bottom of the bag join the dance.
The black shoes contrast with the ecru pants, the blue jacket brings back the balance between the light and dark sides of the force. The belt does the same, while demarcating the top from the bottom of the outfit: it is thus more readable.
Costume side
Between a matching jacket and pants, you will not lack continuity or coherence. Your black shoes will therefore be welcome to bring variety, especially with gray and white.
Here, we note the link between the dark tie and the shoes. The latter, even if they are loafers, reinforce the formality of the outfit by the sobriety that we grant to black. Hence the old “no brown in town” but quite honestly, brown brogues echoing a burgundy tie would have done the trick just as well.
The same goes for a navy blue or beige suit: you have the choice, so just go for your preference. Knowing that as seen above, black will contrast neutrally rather than enriching a combination of beiges for example. And that it will slightly push the cursor towards formality. A cursor that you can bring back towards casualness by preferring your loafers to your derbies for example.
As above, the continuity of the costume does not prevent the creation of bridges to balance: the belt recalls the shoes, while the brown glass of the glasses matches the beige of the shirt.
Level 2: Diving into monochrome black
Yes, right after the footbath, it can feel like you're stepping straight into the Olympic pool, but rest assured: the water isn't as cold as you think. Because it's easier to put on a black outfit than to pair black clothes with other colors. You just have to focus on the cuts and materials. Palette calculations can come later and as with any monochrome, the trick is the same: play on volumes, textures and add structure to make the outfit readable despite its uniformity.
The brand @atemporubato on Insta.
Here, the cuts are impeccable. That's good, because that's what we recommend for all the colors you wear. The textures are harmonious because they are all smooth. The structure and readability will therefore come more from the details like the buttons that set off the shirt, the belt buckle that marks the waist and the shiny leather of the loafers that says "hello to you, eye that tries to move forward in the dark. Here, it's the shoes".
@kevismanzi on Instagram.
In addition to structuring with the loafers, the belt, and the lining of the jacket, Kevis delights us by mixing leather, mesh, gabardine and cotton satin. Obviously, the beret and glasses have their effect too.
Accessories are also your best jokers to enrich your monochromes. With black, silver jewelry will go wonderfully because they are ultimately gray. To hit harder, opt for gold which will contrast more and will be very beautiful too. To knock everyone out, wear both.
@shuhei_nishiguchi on Instagram.
Given the beauty of the zipper and snaps on this perfecto, we can say that they fulfill the role of silver jewelry just as well. As you are starting to master the subject, you have also noticed that the black leather contrasts just right with the canvas of the parka. That with tinted glasses and the white details of the converse, it gives just the right amount of contrast and variety.
The @baziszt brand on Insta.
Here's a summer outfit from a brand that David, a friend and fellow copywriter at ours, introduced me to. It reminds us that simple (but beautiful) embroidery can also be enough to make a monochrome readable and entertaining. And that necklaces will help you too.
And the black suit?
Some fashionistas are probably convinced they read a swear word in this title, for two reasons.
- Its cheap version, with thin polyester lapels, is hanging somewhere on the same rack of shame as the black shirt and the leather jacket in the same material. As with these pieces, the black suit can therefore be scary, but the truth is that a cheap suit will be cheap no matter what color it is.
- Many people associate it with its connotations: funeral attire, chauffeur, Tommy Lee Jones and Will Smith with blasters. I think that like Jean Claude Convenant's suits, these connotations should not deprive you of the fun you can have with a black suit. Although it is interesting to know them.
So my recommendation is this: make sure your suit is of good quality, that it is cut well and that it fits you well, then have fun. Because yes, you can be classy in a black suit, white shirt and black tie. Even more so if you twist the bottom with ankle boots. If we can see that you like it, that you know that it makes you look good, you will never give the impression of being forced to wear it like a black suit bought out of necessity.
But where things get really fun in my opinion is when the black suit is worn differently or its shape changes. If you are not sure about the first option above, don't take it literally and wear a double-breasted jacket with a polo shirt.
(Credit: Scott Fraser)
Opt for flared pants to play on the shapes. Put on a patterned shirt and open it all the way (with a t-shirt underneath, the police don't need to know that you're breaking the codes).
(@newkissontheblog on Insta).
Interesting sequence on the outfit above: white t-shirt, ecru shirt weave, black pattern, black jacket. Voted transition of the month.
But you don't necessarily have to make it that complicated. Sometimes a black turtleneck or white t-shirt will do the trick.
(Credit: Fursac).
As for the tuxedo, that's a whole other story. David tells you all about it here.
Level 3: Enrich your shades of gray with black
If you want to start by buying a single black item of clothing and you don't really know how to pair it, gray is a safe bet. Because it is ultimately only halfway between black and white. So you are only taking one step on the fashion color chart, not a big gap.
And the darker your grays are, the closer they will be to black and the more continuous it will be. Guaranteed harmony, but beware of boredom. Brightness levels that are just different enough to stand out and make the outfit readable are therefore welcome, as here on the right.
@carlos_domord and @itsjesusverdejo on Instagram.
To move on to lighter grays, you can do a gradient: white sneakers, light gray pants, turtleneck and black jacket.
@timdessaint on Insta.
Second tip for playing with your lighter grays: reminders, which create bridges and thus balance. Here, between the turtleneck, the coat and the shoes. Finally the same principle as above.
And to make it even more harmonious, think about textured grays: the gray and black houndstooth above softens the transition even more.
And while we're still on the subject of the advice given above: have you noticed the jewelry?
Level 4: Wearing black with white
Do you remember our little physics lesson above? Light that is divided into a spectrum of colors, including a visible spectrum, and black that absorbs them all? Well white does the opposite. It reflects them all. And all the colors of the visible spectrum, for our eyes, that gives white. White is therefore neutral also since like black, it does not give any special treatment when receiving light. On an outfit, the two shades will coexist and will be on equal terms. They will both attract the eye, each in its own way.
Also remember: putting black with gray is just one step up the color chart. Putting it with white is just one step up.
And because it would be a shame to settle for a pair of fitted black jeans and a white t-shirt, I suggest you choose pieces with a more sophisticated aesthetic. Otherwise, the eye will remain neutral when faced with a combination of neutral shades.
@timdessaint on Insta.
As always, you can also balance these contrasts with reminders. Now you understand how to do it, but here are some interesting examples.
Fursac.
The pants, the bag and the collar of the white t-shirt. The glasses and the soles of the shoes. You get the idea.
Scott Fraser.
The white t-shirt and socks (which also make the bottom of the outfit more readable).
Brut Clothing.
Sneakers, black mac and a little cheating with a pink t-shirt.
And now you also know how to mix black, white and gray. You just have to go back to the principles seen so far.
California Arts.
The light gray pants and white t-shirt are relatively close for continuity. The coat and shoes balance.
@niklinio on Instagram.
The gray of the pants is just dark enough to match the black sweater and shoes. Just light enough to stay consistent alongside the white socks and shirt.
Level 5: Bringing in the other colors
So, ultimately, does black go with everything? Yes, and certain shades and combinations will work particularly well with this shade, and you by extension.
The first tip is the same as for all colors: when they are natural, soft rather than bright, they are always more harmonious together. They coexist as they would have coexist in nature. This is why a burgundy or a wine lees will go better with black than a bright red.
This is also why the black + earth tones combo is particularly beautiful. These are shades that could be found on the floor of a forest, so together, they will necessarily appear natural on you (at least, that's my theory).
If you play on this association with the notions of balance, variety and readability in mind, you become invincible. I am barely exaggerating.
@imdanielsimmons on Instagram.
Walk in Paris.
There's fun to be had with black and navy too.
General Pharmacy.
Besides, dark colors will obviously blend better near black.
Here we have green, gray and black. A variety to be tempered by choosing shades at a similar level of brightness.
Ban on using bright green? Quite the opposite! It’s all a question of dosage:
As a reminder of the loafers, the hoodie is well-placed. The faded shade of the jeans doesn't clash. Everything is fine. A little too fine, even. Hence the touch of bright color.
Bonus recipe for wearing black with other colors: Spread continuity from head to toe, season it with textures or patterns, then layer outerwear in a different color on top.
Officine Générale and @conradssonphilip on Instagram.
@imdanielsimmons and abou_sega on Instagram.
The brand @atemporubato on Insta.
Another way of working with a set of the same color: black at the bottom and a monochrome at the top.
Fursac.
Bound.
If you wear black in layering, you will always have more chances to be coherent by starting from the light pieces in base layer, towards the dark pieces in top layer. As for all layering besides.
@abou_sega on Insta.
White, grey, then black, an earth tone and a reminder: you could almost say that this outfit doesn't teach you anything anymore, if Sega didn't handle volumes so masterfully.
Patterns will also help you create a connection between a black garment and the other layers.
@baziszt on Instagram.
Or to make a transition between the top of your outfit and the shoes.
Norwegian Rain.
Last level: the final boss is you
Now that you have something to better understand this shade and wear it well, it's up to you to play with these principles to discover new ideas. And show that men don't wear black just to take refuge in it.
Black is both modest and arrogant. Black is lazy and easy - but mysterious.
But most importantly, the black says this: “I am not disturbing you – do not disturb me.”
