Cover credit: Velasca
Many of you own at least one or two pairs of brogues, suitable for wearing a suit.
And the question I often get about this is:
“Can I wear these brogues with chinos or jeans? »
This is in particular this message received this week concerning the one cut association
Before answering the question, I invite you (if you have not already done so) to read this article written by Jordan where he explains in particular six criteria which affect the degree of formality of a shoe (color, material, assembly, seams, sole and perforations).
We could also add the shape : the more tapered, “pointed” a shoe is, the more it belongs to the formal register. Conversely, the rounder a shoe is, the more relaxed it is.
The camera angle is not quite the same, but we see that the pair on the left ( Santoni ) has a more elongated shape than the pair on the right, which is rounder ( Velasca ).
As such, Jordan also graciously sent me a graph that he had created but not used, classifying the degree of formality of brogues and derbies according to their color:
Image available in higher definition here.
We see in particular that:
- The darker the shoe, the more formal it is.
- With equal color, leather, toe and perforations, an oxford will always be more formal than a derby
Obviously, this remains theoretical: a light brown brogue, wingtip like this one will always be less formal than an elongated derby whose quarters are worked in the continuity of the shoe and whose volume is measured, like this one .
Oxford with jeans or chinos, that's no
Jean + richelieux or chino + richelieux is a combination that I often see in the street, and which does not work well the vast majority of the time, unfortunately.
Jeans are casual pants of workwear origin .
Chinos are also casual pants of military origin.
The level of formality with an oxford, a very formal shoe, is too far in both cases.
Jeans and chinos therefore do not go well with brogues and we do not recommend this combination.
I understand that this can be tempting. Unfortunately, it doesn't look very good. Credit: Jules&Jenn
The gap in formality between these black chinos and these black brogues is too high. Source: Style Sample Mag
One cut + casual pants: answer to Léo's question
"Can you wear a one cut with jeans? Chinos? Flannel pants?
As a reminder, the one cut brogue is the most formal shoe there is. It only has one piece of leather and therefore there are no seams on its upper.
It is even more formal than the hard-toed brogue or the perforated brogue.
On the left a Crockett & Jones one-cut brogue; on the right a Carmina cap-toe brogue
The presence of stitching on the Carmina makes it a less formal model.
Given what was stated in the previous part, we therefore understand that the one cut has no place with jeans or chinos , whatever the color of the shoe, and whatever the model of the jeans or the chinos.
The very nature of the one cut makes it too formal to be worn with even slightly casual pants.
We appreciate the approach of In Corio (from which this photo is taken), but the black one cuts with fitted green chinos... it doesn't work.
And with flannel pants? I would say... why not, as long as the pants are very sober: a plain, dark flannel, a straight cut, a clean fit on the shoe, without cuffs.
Something like this in idea, removing the sewn hem at the bottom of the leg. ( Suitsupply pants)
“Is there really no way out? »: how to wear brogues with jeans or chinos
You can get out of this by bringing the style of the shoes closer to the pants and therefore choosing a more casual brogue.
Here is an example :
Fairly light color and very present perforations. Meermin
Here is a look with raw jeans:
Source: Michael84
I'm not really a fan of this combination, but I find that it is nevertheless acceptable: the colors match each other well and the slightly country side brought by the perforations is consistent with the raw appearance of the jeans.
Here is another example:
Suede leather and rather light color here too. Morjas
Below, another look with a pair in a darker color paired with a light wash Levi's 501, which I think works well:
The suede leather really helps to relax the shoe. Its characteristic appearance distracts our eye, almost making it forget that we are dealing here with brogues.
The right color combination and the good fit of the jeans help create consistency.
In the two outfits above, chinos could also have their place. But not just any chinos : not too fitted chinos, in a solid color, and definitely the right length.
Here is an example with these 100% cotton pants with a front pleat and an offset buttoning at the belt. These pants are a bit closer to the classic wool dress pants:
To remember
- The more formal your brogue is (if it is in smooth black leather, if it is a one cut, etc.) the more difficult it is to wear it with casual pants such as jeans or chinos
- With an oxford, the cut and length of your bottom are essential. Pants that are completely faded in color, have holes at the knee or are too long do not belong with dress shoes
- The best solution for wearing brogues with casual pants is to go for a casual model (lighter color, suede leather, perforations, slightly rounded shape, not too pointy)
