The parts are either purchased or made available free of charge by the brand, which in this case does not affect in any way the judgment we make on them. This independence is really very important to us, like a totem.
And who can imagine influencing Nicolò, David or Jordan?
Christophe, editor-in-chief.
Here are our other tests:
- Costume Workshop Measure
- Bluchers Carmina
- Shuren Projects Noragi Jacket
- Claudio Mariani custom-made trousers
- Henley Seagale
At BonneGueule, clothing testing is important, for us as well as for you.
They allow us to take stock of brands that we often talk about or to introduce you to new ones in depth.
This test will do both.
He is tackling an intriguing Polish brand mentioned several times in our columns, without us really dwelling on it.
At a time when the supply of mid-range suits has never been so abundant, it was time to test Poszetka's ambitious quality/style/price ratio proposition.
And then, I'm Polish. This mission is a bit of a duty for me.
The brand: history and overview of the offer
1. A family story
Poszetka means pouch and it is with this product that the brand began to develop its offering.
After spotting someone carrying a clutch at a business meeting, Tomasz Godziek asked his wife Joanna Krajewska-Godziek to sew him one.
Then they began some research, and the couple realized that there was no exact term to define this accessory.
They also discovered a market opportunity, and founded the brand in 2010. They then sewed their haberdashery locally with a small family circle in the Polish city of Katowice.
Tomasz and Joanna in their shop in Katowice.
Since then, Poszetka has gradually opened up to new product categories.
Through customer feedback and by expanding its supplier address book, the brand is developing a complete sartorial wardrobe for men.
At the same time, she is launching a half-measure service in her boutique.
For its haberdashery skills, Poszetka received a local craft certificate.
Seeing this rather unique brand developing on the Polish market piqued my curiosity.
To find out more, I asked Michał. At Poszetka, he deals with semi-custom orders and orders from abroad.
Is it difficult to maintain a position on the European market from Poland?
"It's not easy, it's quite tedious to build a solid customer base. Since the beginning of Poszetka, one of our goals was to teach men that classic and elegant clothes are not reserved for weddings and interviews, that a blazer and pants can be as comfortable as any other everyday garment. This educational work has surely helped us gain the trust of a loyal clientele, but it is a strategy that takes time and commitment."
How is your offer received on the Polish market? Is there a growing demand in the sartorial clothing segment?
"There is a growing market for classic clothing, but not necessarily focused on sartorial. Since we launched our ready-to-wear collection (suits, blazers), the reception has been very positive. From our recent experiences, our clothes are not only appreciated by connoisseurs, but also by men looking for comfortable, stylish and elegant clothes at an affordable price for their work environment."
Where does the majority of your demand come from: Poland or Europe?
"Currently our domestic demand is higher. But with our more recent launches, we have seen very dynamic growth in overseas sales."
What are Poszetka's goals for the future?
"We continue to refine and expand our product offering. Our first ready-to-wear collection, which contained two suits and three blazers, was a great success. It was a very good sign for the future. This season, we launched two safari jackets and two coats. These were risky projects, and ultimately very much appreciated by our customers. We will continue this expansion.
Recently, we have had quite a few changes internationally for our company. We have sorted out our processes and are mainly stabilizing. We are preparing for the next challenges.
Our goal of offering good quality classic clothing at an affordable price has not changed, we just want to expand this offer. We will remain true to our motto "Everyday Classic"."
Are you going to open stores in Europe? Do you have any plans for the French market?
"For our new collections, we have had a lot of orders from France. We are happy with this reception. France is our second country with the most customers (almost 240) and the sales generated give us interesting information for the future. For example, our burgundy Fedoras had little success in Poland because of their very strong color, while our French customers loved them! Almost all the hats were sold to French people!
It is difficult to think of a new store opening in Poland, even more so in Europe. Our local dimension has often proven to be a strength.
So we are not planning to open outside Poland, but who knows what the future holds?"
2. A well-positioned offer
The ties, offered for around fifty euros, are handmade in Poland.
Poszetka's offering is positioned at the beginning of the mid-range.
It does this with a quality/price ratio that is very well defended. Some examples:
- 166 euros for a pair of 300g/m English flannel trousers ,
- 360 euros for a deconstructed sports jacket in Donegal,
- 100 euros for a wool turtleneck made in Italy.
The jackets are semi-canvassed. The coats, more expensive, seem to be well made, with thick woolen cloth.
The brand works with materials from English and Italian suppliers.
Here, a wool/linen blend from Reda, an Italian clothier located in Biella.
However, there remains one gray area: the place of manufacture.
To this day, Poszetka assures me that he makes his shirts, pocket squares, ties, and the majority of his leather pieces in Poland.
However, although the brand's presentation page might suggest that the entire collection is assembled in Poland, this is not the case.
Neither on the product pages nor on the labels of the costume tested in this article, there is any mention of the exact place of manufacture. Only the suppliers of materials, who are European, are mentioned.
3. An advanced classic style
Attention fans of raglan armholes, generous lapels and martingales: Poszetka's approach to sartorial clothing is quite traditional.
The trousers are straight, the ties and jacket lapels are rather wide.
The brand draws on Italian or English codes depending on the pieces. You will find Neapolitan or English shoulders, cutaway or buttoned collars.
Double pleats, Gurkha-style belts, houndstooth coats, thick corduroy safari jackets... the style is quite sharp.
And that's the whole point of the brand: an advanced style proposition with a competitive quality/price ratio.
4. A vast collection
From shirts to shoes to bags, Poszetka ventures into many professions to offer a complete sartorial wardrobe.
However, some categories of clothing do not have a great variety and stocks do not seem to be sufficient. This clearly shows the challenges of a brand in the process of development.
5. What we like about Poszetka
Although leather shoes and bags are a decent offering, the value proposition is mainly in sleeve pieces, trousers and haberdashery.
Poszetka stands out with some pieces with strong designs, such as its Gurkha-style trousers and its velvet safari jackets appreciated by the editorial team.
At the same time, Poszetka provides a base of effective basics at an equally reasonable price.
Our opinion on the three-piece Poszetka suit, Edward model
Test conditions
The brand provided us with the suit. I made the alterations at my own expense. We were not paid.
To challenge the brand, I chose to test a piece that requires a lot of know-how: the suit.
It is also a new core business of the brand, which seems to offer half-measure in its boutique in Poland.
I opted for a strong and formal piece:
- Sharp notch collar,
- Double-breasted vest with lapels,
- In a classic flannel, with a Prince of Wales pattern.
Aesthetically, for me, this is the suit on which the brand stands out the most.
Excluding promotions, the costume is offered at €589.
1. The Poszetka experiment
Buy from a Polish shop
Unlike other Polish brands, the website here seems to be geared towards European demand: it is in English and the currency is in euros.
Overall, we find ourselves there.
Size charts are well provided and available under each product description.
On the other hand, some descriptions would benefit from being more complete, particularly on the places of manufacture, the construction of certain jackets and shoes, as well as the origin of the fibers used.
Depending on the purchase amount and the delivery location, the latter may be free or chargeable. A fee of approximately €10 is to be expected in the event of a return.
The reception
I received the costume in a large flat cardboard box.
Along with the costume, this box contained:
- A large and good quality cover,
- A tote bag bearing the brand's image,
- A pen with its leather cover, offered with orders placed during the Christmas period.
The handles of the case are made of leather and padded. A pleasure to carry.
Of course, nothing obliges the brand to be so generous all year round. But it remains important to highlight these efforts.
The costume is well packaged, which protects it from the hazards of a European crossing.
The retouching moment
The pants are rather straight, with a generous opening of 20 centimeters.
If, like me, you have large calves that tend to go off the size charts, these pants will still accommodate you.
If this is not your case, you can enjoy the fluid fall of straight pants, or taper them as you wish.
Upon receipt, the lower cuff is approximately 4 centimeters.
These pants also have a fabric value of more than one centimeter throughout the leg to be widened in the event of a stress point.
In terms of length, you won't escape the retoucher's box: I'm 1m91 tall and, as you can see in the photo, there is material to remove. .
All other usual parameters are adjustable: waist, pelvis, sleeve and jacket length, as well as the fit.
It is better to turn to a trusted alterationist for the bottom of the sleeves, since the functional buttonhole requires more rigorous work.
With these adjustment options and the brand's comprehensive size guide, you have everything you need to make a successful purchase the first time.
2. The material of the costume
It is a 100% wool flannel with little fuzz. It is therefore suitable for a formal setting where you do not want to make waves with the textures, while keeping the warm aspect of a winter wool.
The Prince of Wales pattern has more to tell. It looks ordinary when viewed from a distance, but reveals a pretty grain when you look closer.
It is a fabric from Alfred Brown, a century-old English draper.
The material is of a classic thickness for a suit. The brand indicates 340 grams per meter .
The touch is pleasant. The hand is not exceptional but quite suitable for this price range, with a nice fall of the whole.
Regarding the origin and exact micronage of the fiber, the brand has not managed to obtain any information. Which is understandable given the difficulties posed by the traceability of a garment these days.
As for the lining, it is made of Bemberg (Cupro). A high-end artificial material that is softer, more slippery, silkier and more antistatic than viscose. This is a very good point.
When worn, it is rather pleasant. I do not notice any unwanted friction between the jacket and the vest.
It is a simple and plain lining, which discreetly combines with the rest.
3. The jacket
It is an English shoulder with padding. It brings a presence worthy of the strict spirit of the piece.
It is well built and frames the shoulder as expected. No bulge or excessive rigidity. It sits very well on the shoulder.
At the armholes, the pattern is generally well connected.
Construction wise it is semi canvassed. I can actually feel the canvas between my fingers when I grab the collar lapel.
These are placed on the jacket with a certain flexibility. They have sharp notches that support the formality of the jacket, as well as a real Milanese. Neat, refined finish, and not negligible for this price range.
Well proportioned, the collars create a lovely play of layering with the vest.
It's closer to a straight cut than a fitted one. Maybe too much when worn alone, but just right when worn with the cardigan. That's good, that's what it's made for.
On the front, two patch pockets. An unusual choice for such a formal jacket, on which flaps are often found.
However, they remain discreet and, of course, sewn. Here, the pattern connection could have been more rigorous.
At the back, not one but two slits. This is what we prefer, because the jacket falls much better like this.
The length is quite satisfactory, since it goes down below mid-buttocks for me, knowing that I am 1m91 tall.
Note to self: Avoid sitting down multiple times before shooting the back of your jacket.
At the end of the sleeves, it is a real buttonhole. More laborious for the retouchers, but more satisfying for the purists.
On the whole suit, the horn buttons are rather discreet and have few rough spots. Which is probably intended given its formalism. All the buttons are well sewn and hold in place properly.
Inside, the pockets are numerous, functional, and deep enough. Although it is not recommended to overload them.
- Three pockets on the left, including one for tickets.
- One on the right, buttoned.
Half-moon seams answer the call on each side.
The only real downside: the lack of information on the exact location of the costume assembly.
Edit: The assembly is done in China
The brand has just given me an answer regarding the final assembly location.
This step is carried out in China, in a factory which also supplies SuitSupply.
The latter has a majority Italian capital and would have good tailoring know-how. Something verified by the brand's tailors, and confirmed by this test as well.
According to Poszetka, after much research, it turned out to be the best compromise to be able to achieve this quality/style/price ratio.
4. The vest
It is a double-breasted waistcoat, with two notched lapels that also cross. These elegantly frame the tie without stealing the show.
This also makes it a very formal piece. A playing card for special occasions.
The lapels are as soft and well proportioned as on the jacket.
For pocket watch lovers, one of the two front pockets is pre-sewn.
On these pockets, the pattern match could be improved. But it's an insignificant detail in my opinion, especially for this price range.
On the assembly side, the work is clean and well done. The seams are neat.
Like the lining of the jacket, the back of the vest is made of cupro.
The clamp tab on the back works great. I couldn't identify what the buckle is made of, but it's lightweight and has a nice sheen.
To ensure that the buttoning stays straight when worn, there is an additional buttonhole on the inside.
5. The pants
It contains very pleasant details which take it away from monotony by emphasizing the personality of the costume:
- Two clips at the front,
- No loop, but two tightening tabs on the sides.
Regarding the clamps, I would have preferred them to be more pronounced.
But this is a personal opinion, let's remember that this costume is not there to make waves. This aesthetic choice will therefore seem judicious to the greatest number.
Here the clamps open wide. But it's my thighs that plead guilty.
The tightening tabs are very practical. When the pants are the right size, they quickly make you forget the concept of a belt.
They have a good amount of room to maneuver, and feel a certain solidity to the touch.
On the pockets, the reinforcement seams are clearly present.
At the front, the capuchin button placket reveals the button. In the absence of a loop, this addition of detail is visually welcome.
Below, a high-performance YKK zip.
The second button (plastic) inside ensures very good support.
Inside, a non-slip strip that teams up with the tightening tabs to keep the shirt in place.
The pocket bags are deep and securely sewn.
No information on the composition of these pocket bags and the waist lining. It appears to be a mostly cotton blend. Personal belongings slide in properly.
As is usually seen on suit pants, the front of the leg is lined from the top to the knees. This prevents unpleasant rubbing, while slowing down wear due to friction of the material at this level.
To the touch, this lining does not seem to be cupro but rather synthetic or viscose. In any case, it plays its role very well.
5. The first ports
This is almost the 10th time I've worn this suit, at school, at the office, at a restaurant... I have no complaints about its tenacity.
Having made the bottom a little too tapered , I subject the pants to some repetitive tension while sitting down, at the calf level. They hold up very well, no seams are loose.
No problem in areas of friction, such as the elbows or crotch. But you should know that this type of wear is more often due to the morphology of the wearer than to the durability of the fabric.
6. How to wear it?
SuitSupply shirt, De Fursac tie, Colonel Mustard pocket square, Drapeau Noir coat, Léon Flam bag, Velasca brogues.
With its traditional material, its sharp notches and its double-breasted waistcoat, it is a very first degree costume. Proclaiming formality and solemnity.
To make a statement at work or to honor your stature in a ceremony, I therefore recommend that you wear it with a shirt and tie without playing with the rules too much. No officer collar or open collar.
Choose a collar that will leave enough space for the tie to express itself among the four lapels that surround it. Example here with a cutaway collar.
For the color, there are no two ways about it: a nice white shirt. With this anthracite gray, it's the most effective combination. So why change a winning team?
From there, you will have more freedom on the tie. It can be knitted, silk or wool flannel, as long as its thickness does not stand out too much.
Here I took a burgundy silk knitted tie. I recalled the shirt with a white pocket square, which could have been chosen in silk.
No need to reinvent the wheel. Accompanied by beautiful materials, this costume will shine very well by itself.
Below, the costume register naturally calls for wearing a pair of dark oxford shoes.
But if you don't have one, you can cheat like me by emphasizing its English style with brogues.
Here is the Barabba model from Velasca.
They will add more personality and won't be condemned to staying in the closet when you don't have a wedding or a job interview, since they can be worn just as well with a casual outfit.
On top of that, you obviously need a long coat. In wool or cotton depending on the climate.
For my part, I echo the brown of the derbies with a camel coat.
Finally, if I use it for its professional aspect, I equip myself with a canvas and leather briefcase to carry my documents. The mix of materials makes it more modern than a briefcase, but it still fits very well in a business setting.
Here I am ready for my trader training.
The final word
For me, it's a big Tak.
For you, I will translate this Polish affirmative with a strong recommendation of the Poszetka costume.
Its price/quality ratio lives up to the brand's promise and its style is brilliantly successful.
Material, finish, cut, all the lights are green.
I just find it a shame that the brand does not clearly mention manufacturing in China, which does not, however, affect the quality of the costume.
Special mention, however, goes to the success of the waistcoat, as well as to the well-executed superposition between its lapels and those of the jacket.
