Here we are.
This is the hundredth episode of Readers' Letters.
3-digit , as the Americans say.
I have also been answering all the questions you ask us for three years.
So to mark the event, I took a step back from all the messages that you and I have exchanged.
Three thoughts emerged. Here they are.
1. A more open mind
We all have a certain vision of clothing , of what is stylish and what is not, of what is a good and bad cut , etc.
I can't escape it. I also come with a certain vision of fashion.
And what's interesting is being confronted with people who have different opinions.
The goal is not to argue to prove to our interlocutor that we are right and he is wrong, but rather to try to understand his point of view.
Being exposed to all these different ideas has opened my mind a lot.
Here is a recent example from Youtube:
Digging a little deeper, we learn more about this reader's opinion on white jeans .
There are reasons why he spontaneously says "yuck" when he sees this garment. And it's interesting to know them.
So now you might be wondering what the relationship is between open-mindedness and style?
I'm coming to it.
In your quest for style, it seems important to me to go beyond the stage of a simple "I like/I don't like" opinion .
It is in this category in particular that we find clothing stereotypes, which are quite peremptory. For example: "corduroy makes you look like a grandpa".
Let's say that this spontaneous appreciation, which is important, is only step number 1.
If you are in a process where you want to understand the style and develop your own , it is in your best interest to go a little further.
So, step number 2 is to ask yourself:
"Why do I like it? Why don't I like it?"
This is where it starts to get more interesting because it is sometimes difficult to put words to a simple feeling.
But by digging into this why, you will learn more about your vision for clothing.
Massimo Alba
"I like it because the brown/green color palette is very harmonious, because I see here a more casual vision of the suit that I like."
"I don't like them because I find the sole of these shoes too imposing and these white socks contrast too much with the rest. I prefer more discreet shoes, darker socks."
After having managed to analyze why we like something or not, step number 3 is to manage to say to ourselves:
"I don't like it, but I can understand the appeal."
It's accepting that you may not like a piece of clothing or a silhouette, but also understanding that other people appreciate it and see an interest in it.
For example, I don't really like the silhouettes offered by the English brand Albert Clothing , which we are sometimes asked about. I find the lines very aggressive with lapels that are too wide and colors that are too saturated:
But over time, I have learned to compromise : I accept that it is a fairly strong, assertive form of tailoring, which does not correspond to my tastes but which corresponds to the tastes of other people.
Having this neutral look even allows you to go a little further. By digging into the brand's collection, I find certain references that I like a little more.
The drawstring and neutral color soften the style of these joggers.
2. Trends don't necessarily have to be rejected.
After three years working in fashion, I saw a few trends emerge that I highlighted through brand selections in the Readers' Mail.
I'm thinking, for example, of wide pants , the bandana or the noragi .
This little accessory adds density to the top of your outfit. A Piece of Chic
It can be tempting to point out these trends , saying that they are fleeting or artificial.
I don't agree with that.
The main reason is that currently the offer in basics is very rich . If you are looking for and value clothes with a relatively simple and neutral style, you will find many brands that will satisfy you:
- Asket
- The Pants
- Hast
- Paname Collections
- Paris Yorker
- Loom
- Colorful Standard
- The Paris Exception
- Etc.
Looking for a simple crew neck sweater? You're spoiled for choice. Paris Yorker
Having slightly more differentiated clothing, which can respond to a form of trend, allows us to bring variety. This avoids having a market that is too uniform.
For example, I think the current resurgence of interest in trousers is a good thing . As Nicolò says in the introduction to his Compendium on Trouser Closures :
[In 2015], I found it a bit of a shame that there were a whole bunch of shirt collars, types of jackets, while all our pants looked the same, apart from the color and the material.
Fortunately, more than five years later, times have changed, and the men's market has since become enormously enriched in terms of pants options !
Whether you like it or not, I think it's cool that today you can choose a pair of pants with such an original and elaborate closure. Claudio Mariani
No matter which side you're on, there's a deal on the market right now that'll suit you.
3. Too much choice = overdose
The question I get asked the most is:
“Where can I find X clothing item for a Y budget?”
The expected response is therefore a list of brands.
I see that some of you are looking for a form of exhaustiveness, wishing to know as many brands as possible that could correspond to their search.
This isn't quite a good example here because the pouch remains a fairly straightforward accessory, but you get the idea.
It’s interesting because it shows passion, curiosity, and a certain level of demand too.
And since the market is currently rich, we can provide lists that are quite extensive. But this is not always beneficial. It can even be counterproductive.
When there are too many choices, we can no longer choose. .
If you have too many options, you may have difficulty settling on a specific model.
How to do it?
To avoid being drowned in brands, it seems to me interesting to start with a relatively large list, maximum 5 to 6 brands, then to proceed by elimination by removing:
- What comes from very far away
- What is hard to find
- What is outside your budget
- Which doesn't quite have the look or color you're looking for
- What is not in stock in your size
With such filtering, there shouldn't be much left.
To take a concrete example, the offer of sneakers from 100 to 200€ is quite well supplied: Garconne and Chérubin .
Here, there is no need to add a brand like Oliver Cabell for example. The products seem rather interesting... but it is American and not distributed here.
When ordering from them, you may have to pay additional import taxes. The offer available in France and Europe on mid-range sneakers is sufficient.
This Oliver Cabell model is quite pretty...
...but Artisan Lab does the same thing, just as good quality, more easily accessible here and cheaper
And if after all this, you are hesitating between two or three models, ask us , we can give you a little help to help you make your choice:
The final word
The numbering of the Readers' Letters stops at this number 100, but rest assured: there will always be new content on Friday.
So be there!
And to go further
Buying: How to choose between several very similar items of clothing – CDL#46
🎬 Finding your style is an Odyssey – VLOG #3
