Noragi jacket, gurkha and fatigue pants – Readers’ letters #18

Veste noragi, gurkha et fatigue pants – Le courrier des lecteurs #18
Wicket: the French costume with a strong English accent Reading Noragi jacket, gurkha and fatigue pants – Readers’ letters #18 Next Readers’ nuggets #2 – Mathieu

Hello everyone, for this episode of readers' letters, we are going to talk about three stronger pieces , which are on the rise at the moment, as evidenced by the regular questions I have received about them in recent weeks.

I know what we’re going to talk about today because I read the title!

Hehe 😉

Where to find noragi jackets?

The question

My answer

Noragi, kesako?

This is a cotton work jacket used by Japanese farmers. The rather short and fairly wide sleeves that are often found are intended to facilitate manual work.

Anecdote #1: “nora” means “field” and “gi” means “clothing, uniform”, in Japanese.

Anecdote #2: there are a number of patchwork noragi because Japanese farmers patch up their worn noragi over time using patches.

Where to find it?

  • Overlord Brand , brand proposed in comments by Alexis and mentioned by our friend Boras in this post . Noragi are between 120 and 180€:

It's very tasteful.

I am a big fan of this model .

Here, a navy seersucker model.

  • Shuren Projects, a Malaysian brand which offers pretty models at a very good price (less than €100). Be careful about shipping costs and customs fees which can inflate the bill.

In addition to the traditional black or navy noragis, a very pretty mustard yellow model, subtly striped, with a contrasting blue collar and cord. Very successful.

  • Etsy , marketplace for selling personal or vintage creations (you can find everything, there's some sorting to do)

A probably vintage noragi given the traces of fading.

And if you have a lot of budget, look at:

  • Visvim of course:

A very beautiful model in chambray and long sleeves on Ssense.

  • Nemen:

Here on a zipped olive water-repellent nylon version with two front pockets, found on Endclothing.

  • Blue Blue Japan:

815€ . At best, you know it exists ^^

Want to know more about noragi? I can only invite you to read the dedicated articles on the blog of our friend Borasification .

Moreover, Boras is in the process of launching its brand of noragi, called Borali. The brand's website is here. And an article to present the brand was written there .

Where to find Gurkha pants?

The question

My answer

Gur-what?

The Gurkha pants take their name from a unit of elite British and Indian soldiers of the same name who fought in Nepal, a name coming from the Nepalese kingdom of Gorkha.

The pants are characterized by the presence of double pleats at the front, and above all by buttoning using wide strips of fabric fastening with buckles on two sides.

Where to find it?

Well, this is more complicated. Few brands make them; they remain niche pants and are expensive to make. Here's what I found:

Available from Jinji.

  • Amfeast International, brand recommended by several informed readers in the comments. €130 for stretch cotton cargo. To be tested but it seems a good deal:
  • Rubinacci, reference brand for this type of pants:
  • Luxire: an accessible half-measure brand manufactured in India. Prices vary a lot: for pants, prices start at around a hundred euros , to which must be added $30 to integrate a Gurkha belt. Site in English and a bit cluttered, it is not necessarily easy to navigate. But it's undeniably a good option for Gurkha pants at a not too crazy price. To tell you the truth, I just ordered a “ trial pant . I will have the opportunity to report back when I receive it.

Here, a gurkha in a Vitale Barberis Canonico wool flannel.

I would like to offer you pants that are not exactly Gurkha pants (not the same belt) but have a similar style (offset belt with buttons). For what ? Because these models are more affordable financially and for some, more easily found in France:

  • Pini Parma:

A single pleat, strapping tabs and a wide, offset two-button belt. Made in Italy.

  • Scavini with his two-pleat chinos:

Two clips but a belt that's not really offset or wide. A very nice pair of pants though.

Little bonus:

  • SuitSupply offers beige Gurkha Bermuda shorts in its current collection:

All the characteristics of a Gurkha, in a Bermuda version .

Where to find fatigue pants?

The question

My answer

The last element of the "fashionable trio".

Where does the fatigue pant come from? (from the Selvedge Minute #102)

It comes from the American military wardrobe, forming part (in 1952) of the so-called “OG-107” uniform used notably during the Vietnam War.

Traditionally olive green, it is characterized by large patch pockets, a straight cut, a high waist and two flap pockets at the back.

Current brands are rightly reappropriating it because it makes a big impact in an outfit.

Easier to wear than you might think.

Where to find fatigue pants?

  • Black Flag has an olive fatigue pant this season

Available on the brand's e-shop.

  • Champ de Maneuvers, which is introducing a new fatigue pant into its latest collection:

Colorful !

  • Orslow , for superb high-end Japanese workwear

You will find it in particular at Jinji .

  • Stan Ray, brand offering a simple and well-executed workwear wardrobe, made in the USA since the creation of the brand.

Two cuts (loose and tapered) and several colors available.

Here in blue.

David Hao, maximum soft tailoring

I think clothing can be a beautiful means of personal development. I like unstructured jackets, straight pants and loafers.

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