We know that you appreciate brand tests. And frankly, so do we. We would like to do it every week, see everything, try everything, with the same objectivity that characterizes us.
But the truth is that we are running out of time. Cruelly. And, as it is not in our DNA to botch subjects, as you well know, the result is that we do less than we should.
But here we are: this is indeed a new test that you are reading, a costume test in this case, wedding season obliges.
I chose Wicket because it is a brand that we recommend, without having formally conducted a test yet.
And, although we are still sure of its value, we still wanted to take a closer look.
Wicket, the tailor spirit
You might believe that the brand is English, but it is an illusion: it is French. However, it must be said that she speaks in English. Like certain French singers who choose English to declaim their musical poetry, because they believe that it sounds better and that it is the way to speak to the greatest number of people.
Not stupid.
And this has been the case for many years. 2003 is the year of birth of Wicket, which places it among the old brands. She knew how to navigate a market in revolution, a market in crisis and hold on. And even do better than that, in fact. The impetus and direction were given by Hugues de Peyrelongue.
Let's say it straight away: Wicket has bet on the classic . And “classic” isn’t a bad word. It's even the surest way to achieve elegance in my opinion. And the silhouette defended by the brand has been classic from the start:
- It's a two or three button suit
- Whose cut is not too fitted
- With 9cm lapels
- An 80° notch
- A traditional jacket length
- Significant padding on the shoulders
- Slanted pockets
- A ticket pocket
- High-waisted pants with or without pleats
- A leg opening of 21cm
Hugues de Peyrelongue, commenting on this initial silhouette of Wicket, will tell me:
In short, what makes the charm and elegance of the English style.
In 2005, however, he decided to redesign the lapels again to make them thinner (at 7cm) and create a curve, with a higher and narrower notch (40°) parallel to the shoulder.
And lapels are one thing, but they're not everything in a suit: the cut has also evolved over time. Because Wicket does not look at its navel and remains attentive to what is happening outside the comfortable microcosm of its stores.
Which made Hugues de Peyrelongue say:
Our Kensington and Hampstead models are very different from those in our collections 15 years ago.
Indeed :
- The padding
on the shoulders has been lightened - The cropped jacket
- Tapered pants, with a 19cm bottom and a slightly lower waist
However, certain original characteristics have remained:
- Two 28cm high slots which are weighted to guarantee a nice, clean drape
- Slanted pockets
- The ticket pocket
- Buttoned fly pants
- Side-adjusters at the waist
- Half-moons on the pockets to reinforce them
- Fancy linings...
Adapt, therefore, to fluctuating tastes, but always maintain the same point.
Concerning the assembly of the jackets, it is semi-canvassed. That is to say that the bib is assembled via seams (or "free assembly") and only the bottom of the jacket and certain details use iron-on welding. This allows you to have a good result without exploding the price of the costume.
Hugues de Peyrelongue adds:
All these details, semi-traditional assembly and the requirement of our finishes are essential points which impose on us a certain production cost which we try not to reflect too much on our sales prices.
The sales prices of the costumes are between €580 and €750 and sizes range from 44 to 58. With the possibility of purchasing, for certain models, the corresponding vest for the sum of €180. It’s good value for money given the workmanship, finishes and materials used. It must be said that costumes are their core business. This represents more than 60% of their annual sales.
The rest of the Wicket wardrobe is made up of more casual pieces (chinos, blazers, safari jackets and jersey jackets in particular). The safari jacket being, along with the suit, a specialty of the house. And for this year, the brand has launched a mini-series of four Bermuda shorts.
We also note that Wicket offers models in an Italian style with the natural shoulder and less construction in the jacket.
Come on, I'll show you the product more closely.
The Wicket suit
I chose to test a suit. It’s only natural, it’s their core business! I wanted a wedding suit. Formal.
That's what happens :
Wicket suit, Berg&Berg shirt, De Fursac tie, Paul Smith shoes, Atelier Boivin pocket square
It's the Kensington model that I wear. The most emblematic of the brand. Three-piece as you can see, in a medium gray Prince of Wales check.
The jacket is fitted, has two buttons and features Wicket's famous weighted slits.
The shoulder, as advertised in the above, makes proud shoulders without looking artificial. I find this level of padding to be very successful for a formal suit. Because, without being too marked, it still gives a little confidence.
We feel good with such a shoulder, it's the statutory suit, the one we wear for special occasions.
Plus, the fabric is noteworthy. It comes from Vitale Barberis Canonico and it is a thread-to-thread serge in 120S wool.
About the “Supers”
“Super 120s” describes the quality of the wool fiber. That is to say its length and its finesse. For example, the wool fibers in Super 100s are much thinner than 180s for example. But that doesn't mean the fabric is better or worse quality. If you are looking for a suit for work that creases little and holds up well to your intense days, it is better to opt for a 100s, 110s, 120s or 130s. If you are looking for a very refined formal suit
Serge is an weave with raised diagonals. We see it in this close-up:
We can clearly see these diagonals. This forms a staircase because the weft thread (vertical) passes over two warp threads (horizontal) and then under one warp thread. Thus creating a gap. And the same thing happens in the direction of the warp threads.
So much for the serge. And the fact that there are two colors of thread is referred to as "thread to thread".
This is also the case for the fabric of the costume that interests us.
Here, the two colors are medium gray heather and anthracite gray. This is what gives the charm of this fabric which, moreover, is tighter than the one I gave for comparison and more subtle too.
This therefore gives a costume that takes the light well.
The cup
Jacket
The cut is fitted, don't believe it. Just because you're classic doesn't mean you can't opt for a little adjustment.
What I particularly like about this jacket is precisely this fitted waist which is cleverly highlighted by the slanted pocket. This gives a very elegant result and gives a certain appreciable character I find.
And I also like that the jacket is a little long. This suits me well since my bust is longer than my legs. This makes up for it. 
And, what's more, it covers the buttocks which makes it a more dignified ceremonial garment in my opinion. I am not against a suit with a shorter jacket but it should not go beyond half the buttocks in my opinion.
Trousers
It is clipless and has a mid-rise waist. This will suit a very large number of people for sure .
I find that it is neither too fitted nor too loose. There is enough space to move around without difficulty.
Finishes
Our collections are made in Europe , in different countries depending on the specificities of the models we offer. Which includes the Netherlands but also Italy and Portugal. These different countries have very good workshops with highly qualified personnel which allow a high level of finishing. In addition, it is at the gates of France and therefore very practical for commercial exchanges. We have worked with them for many years.
Functional buttonholes
This is a traditional detail that is rarely seen in this price category.
Fancy lining
Here we find the English spirit, whose style is often tinged with self-mockery.
Topstitching on lapels and pockets
Reinforcement half-moon
It is the semi-circle at the corners of the pocket that serves to reinforce the opening. A detail that is always appreciated because it demonstrates the care taken in the finishes.
Collar lining
By lifting the collar of the jacket, we discover a little surprise on the felt lining of the collar: a pattern. Wicket didn't have to, but it shows the brand's hard-line approach.
The back of the vest
I wanted to show you the color of this viscose vest back. We use this material so that the jacket moves easily over it. But we're not supposed to show it to the public in an ostentatious way like here.
Side adjusters
In the hands, they give a reassuring impression of solidity . This is a very practical finish, especially if your weight fluctuates a little or the waist is a bit too loose.
Closing the pants
It's properly finished. And there too, there is thickness under the fingers. It smells like a job well done.
Suspender buttons and grip tape
The pants are equipped with buttons that allow you to receive suspenders. And besides, it makes me want to buy them occasionally because, well adjusted and well chosen, the straps provide real comfort in holding the pants in place. In fact, the waist is left free and there is no need to pull up your pants after sitting down for a while.
Another little joy: this anti-slip strip. This helps hold the shirt in place so it doesn't come out of the pants, providing resistance. It's clever and the benefit is immediate.
A comfortable V for comfort
Well-known finish allowing you to soften the waist of the pants by tolerating fluctuating tension on them.
The in-store experience
I also wanted to emphasize one point: the very warm welcome given to customers. And it wasn't just for me, just because I had to write an article about the brand. While I was in the store, I could see that the same treatment was being applied to other customers.
This is the tailoring spirit, as mentioned previously. Already, we are received with great politeness and friendliness, which is far from being the case in all stores. It's already appreciable. Then, the advice to guide you towards the right suit, in the right size and the alterations to be made is very precise, convincing, directive without being authoritarian.
In short, we are well taken care of and gently led towards the costume that we came to look for without knowing it.
“The suit remains the Western male uniform par excellence”
BonneGueule : Do you think that English aesthetics have a future?
Hugues de Peyrelongue, founder of Wicket : Of course! just look at the impact of the images on the fashion world of the wedding of Prince Harry of England to Meghan Markle: a parade of English suits and jackets and always a lot of fantasy in the colors of the ties, the shirts...
And then English style is not limited to Savile Row costumes. It is also country clothing (rustic, sporty and casual), essential rain gear, an immoderate taste for headgear and beautiful shoes.
This is also what leads us to sell numerous accessories made in England in our stores (Briggs umbrella, Lock and Co hats, Smedley sweaters, Albert Thurston suspenders, etc.) and to develop our own collection of sewn shoes since 2016. Goodyear and made in Northumberland in England especially for Wicket.
BonneGueule : This also raises the question of the costume: it is often said that he is going to die and yet he resists. What is your point of view on the subject? Do you think the way we wear costumes has evolved for better or worse?
HdP: I want to answer you that for nothing to change, everything must be changed… except the essentials. The suit remains the Western male uniform par excellence. It continues to evolve and will continue to evolve with lifestyles.
It's up to us, a costume specialist, to adapt and offer suits whose cuts will suit tomorrow's tastes, but there is no question of compromising manufacturing quality or falling into excess: for example, pants that are too fitted will never last long. : the wear of the fabric caused by friction will be too great. A jacket that is too fitted will create tension in the seams and pose a risk of wear and deformation.
On the other hand, the technicality of fabrics brings us a lot and has evolved a lot in recent years. Wool blends (with linen, silk, cashmere, etc.) are becoming more and more common, as are water-repellent wools, etc. and these technical developments allow new uses. We are also rediscovering traditional fabrics such as Solaro and tropical wool, which are highly technical and whose qualities are well known to costume enthusiasts.
BonneGueule : Your range has a more Italian aesthetic: is it to respond to customer demand, to diversify your offer?
HdP: The Italian cup arrived later, with the desire to diversify and approach the “sprezzatura” spirit. The straight cuts (Turin, Milan and Rome models) then our crossed cut (Naples model) are more unstructured, half-lined and the fit behind the shoulder is more rounded which gives these models a feeling of flexibility and lightness.
Our Italian jackets have a slightly higher bend point to adjust for the balance of the jacket which is slightly shorter. It is very appreciable for the spring-summer season, but also in weekend clothes.
With us, an Italian cut suit will always be less formal than an English cut. The two styles coexist in harmony in our collections and have allowed us to address a wider clientele with truly different products.
The final word
It’s a good value for money suit that I highly recommend. The finishes are up to par and the fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico has a lot of charm. In addition, I find that the slanted pockets emphasizing the curve bring a certain character to the whole.
I was particularly impressed by the non-slip strip to prevent the shirt from coming out of the pants and the weighted slits.
It can be worn with or without a vest to adapt the level of formality of the piece to the context.
In short, all lights are green, we will continue to recommend the brand!
