No bla-bla, I'll show you these beautiful nuggets!
A Camoshita polo shirt
The polo shirt in question seen on Jinji.
Why the brand?
I always take a look at the master Yasuto Kamoshita, the soul behind this almost eponymous brand
And I'll even tell you: if I accidentally rubbed the wrong lamp in the back of a thrift store and a sartorial genius came out, a dashing but mischievous genius who ordered me to choose one brand and one only, to wear for eternity, I would choose Camoshita. Straight off.
Well, on the other hand, if the undermining genius had the power to give me a discount, I wouldn't say no.
It almost makes me want to wear Bermuda shorts! It's extremely simple though. (Loobook Camoshita SS18)
Yasuto Kamoshita is Japanese and, like many, influenced by Americana and the Ivy League style of the 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s . It’s an affinity that I share with him. It’s normal that I feel attracted to the clothes he creates: attention to detail, Japanese materials, a touch of Ivy style.
It was from him that I learned what it meant to wear a cool suit. I don't know how to do it like him, but I see the way to get there.
Just wear a suit and not care. That and a whole bunch of other jacket cut and construction details in particular.
Camoshita SS18 Lookbook
But the idea is there. He has an attitude, a behavior of kindness and conquest that inspires.
Its clothes are made in Japan with luxurious materials and there is no compromise on quality.
His favorite pieces? The turtleneck, the double-breasted blazer, the moccasin although it doesn't make any, the overshirt and outerwear in general. Especially when it's flowy with raglan sleeves. I would say his collections are the opposite of “difficult to wear”. So easy to wear. Yes, thank you.
Colors when they are out of the ordinary are always wearable and you simply have to see how he wears them to immediately want to imitate him.
Why this room?
Mustard-colored cotton terry polo shirt.
There are fights that are fair.
And one of mine is to campaign for the return of polo. Oh, that's right, he never really left. Or rather he went off in a spin.
When I say "polo shirt", I don't mean the flashy one that we take to go golfing, or the other one whose collar we turn up or even the one that we plaster with a slightly ridiculous little logo when we are a cool brand from the swamp.
I am campaigning for the return of two polo shirts:
- The first is the rugby one with the big horizontal stripes.
- The second is the one that fits into a Mad Men-style aesthetic. So 1950s. The one that we would see (and that we have seen in fact) on the shoulders of Don Draper, or of Marcello Mastroianni, or of Jude Law in The Talented Mr Ripley.
Here, I like it because it seems to me to be knit and that gives a seductive and enviable nonchalance. That and the fact that the collar is worked, as well as the raglan shoulders, the bottom of the sleeves and the polo shirt. But just enough.
The material of the Camoshita polo shirt is terry cotton , meaning it is the same material as a bath towel or bathrobe. I've never worn one yet but I have the idea that it's perfect for summer, not being afraid to sweat a little in it.
Well that said, at €210 per beast, I'm not 100% convinced that I want to sweat in it. Maybe if I touch it during the sales.
Matter seen more closely. And in white yes. (Seen on the No Man Walks Alone eshop)
To wear the polo shirt well, in my opinion, is to wear it as if you were wearing a very casual shirt.
A bit like this, if you want to wear it in sportswear:
Lookbook Christian Kimber SS19
Or, a little more chic, 50s, like here:
So ! Camoshita SS2018 Lookbook
Aviatic joggers
😱 😱
Why the brand?
I didn't know this brand before I found it. And now that I know her, I realize that I don't know her.
The reason for this is that the brand stopped producing for a certain period. It shares the same pattern with the Elevation Store eshop , which we particularly like because they have a nose for selecting beautiful gems.
Aviatic seems to be back. And that’s so much the better, as we feel an effort in the making of each piece. It is mainly done in France and Portugal for certain pieces, like this nugget.
It makes me want to do a little brand test...
Update from Elevation Store
"Aviatic is a French brand which has existed since 1982 exactly. It was at the time one of the pioneering French brands in the importation of Japanese fabrics and French manufacturing. Today the manufacturing is in Portugal as well as series very limited in France.
The materials are also essentially Japanese but you can find some Italian or Belgian fabrics, and from time to time French as well.
The style style is quite broad. There can be workwear, sartorial, military elements but also a little streetwear. It all depends on how each person wishes to interpret certain pieces. Even if there is a dominance of workwear."
Why this room?
This is the nugget that made my jaw drop. I was wandering the great boulevards of the internet, when at the bend of a slightly less busy alley, I came across these joggers.
I'm not used to joggers, but I'm getting into them, especially if they simply consist of an elasticated waist, a drawstring but the bottom of the leg has no elastic to tighten calf. It suits me like that.
Especially since, once altered to the right length of the legs and a t-shirt over them, you can easily pass them off as chinos. Anyway.
The big crush I had for this piece has more to do with its material than its shape ultimately.
Oh the beautiful material. It does me a little something to see that.
It gives me the impression that a painter has traced these lines with a fine brush, pressing more or less.
I find the scratches subtle and not first degree, with this irregularity in the line . Just like I will prefer tennis stripes on a suit to the more clear and well-designed stripes which seem to me to be devoid of interest. There are things to see, things to say.
Let's say them correctly because it is a Japanese indigo wabash fabric.
The wa-what? Wabash.
First things first: the Wabash is a river in America, flowing through the states of Ohio, Illinois and Indiana. In the 18th century, many Native American tribes settled around this river and formed a political group that they named The Wabash Confederacy.
And this set of tribes wove patterned fabrics, decorative and creative things
Thereupon, JL Stiefl & Son took advantage of this wabash fabric to market it on clothing intended for manual work, notably railway employees.
It is therefore a fabric that was worn in workwear outfits only.
A simple and effective way to wear the piece. The joggers are enough to give a nice personality to the outfit. ( Elevation Store )
A fatigue pants Officine Générale
Happy Jordy (BonneGueule work jacket, April 77 chambray shirt, William L. 1985 watch, Officine Générale fatigue pants, vintage bag found at Brut Clothing, Converse)
Why Officine Générale?
OG, as no one calls it, is a useful brand for everyday outfits. Because the originality of the creations is found less in the nature of the pieces than in the subtly different materials and refined patterns.
Personally, the brand also speaks to me thanks to its sophisticated cuts: I find the moderate fullness that I like in carrot-cut pants and shirts that don't hug the body. I just regret the too narrow lapels of the jackets. But I also understand that it is part of a French style that exports well internationally.
At OG, even the simplest fabric has things to say. Officine is a bit of a nest of nuggets as Michel showed in the article which precedes mine.
Why this room?
A little shimmering zoom.
First of all, I have to tell you that this piece comes from the recent clearance sale that the brand organized. Yes, it is often a privilege to be in Paris. Even if, to talk about Officine Générale in particular, the brand regularly gives in to private sales with 30 or 40% reduction.
Well, here it was more. Much more in fact.
And suddenly less. Much less in fact.
30€.
It's indecent, I know.
To tell you the truth, I don't know if these pants were ever marketed or if they were an abandoned prototype.
The shape chosen by the brand is fatigue pants. These pants of military origin, which the GI's wore when they were not in combat
Officine Générale has kept the shape of the fatigue pants, with its characteristic large patch pockets on the front, flap pockets on the back and this "olive green" color. On the other hand, she has modernized it, with a more fitted cut than the original pants and this herringbone fabric finish.
Which finish does not come from nowhere since it was present on the American military pants which preceded this one and used during the period of the Korean War, the HBT, that is to say the " Herringbone Twill", in other words the seasoned twill, one could say.
Closer, you can see the pockets worked with a special stitch and the herringbone fabric.
Green pants are extremely practical in a wardrobe and their military touch doesn't displease me. It goes with blues, browns, camels, white of course, light gray is superb and then if you add purple you can claim your love for the Joker from Batman.
Fatigue pants can be found at Drapeau Noir, Orslow, The Real McCoy, Champ de Maneuvers, Closed, Universal Works, Aviatic in particular. These are paradoxically very current pants, which contemporary brands like to offer.
And I would even tell you that if you have good jeans, beige chinos and olive green fatigue pants, you don't need anything else to dress your legs.
