No blah blah, I'll show you these beautiful nuggets!
A Camoshita polo shirt
The polo in question seen on Jinji.
Why the brand?
I always keep an eye on the master Yasuto Kamoshita, the soul behind this almost eponymous brand. and creative director of United Arrows .
And I'll even tell you: if by mistake I rubbed the wrong lamp in the depths of a thrift store and a sartorial genie came out, a dashing but mischievous genie who ordered me to choose one brand and one only, to wear for eternity, I would choose Camoshita. Straight away.
Well, on the other hand, if the genius of undermining had the power to give me a discount, I wouldn't say no.
It almost makes me want to wear Bermuda shorts! It's so simple though. (Loobook Camoshita SS18)
Yasuto Kamoshita is Japanese and, like many, influenced by Americana and the Ivy League style of the 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s . It's an affinity that I share with him. It's normal that I feel attracted to the clothes he creates: attention to detail, Japanese materials, a touch of Ivy style. and a personal touch of cool due to his own person.
It was with him that I learned what it meant to wear a suit cool. I don't know how to do it like him, but I see the way to get there.
Just wear a suit and not care. That and a whole bunch of other details of jacket cut and construction in particular.
Camoshita SS18 Lookbook
But the idea is there. He has an attitude, a behavior of kindness and conquest at the same time that inspires.
Their clothes are made in Japan with luxurious materials and there is no compromise on quality.
His favorite pieces? The turtleneck, the double-breasted blazer, the loafer although he doesn't make them, the overshirt and outerwear in general. Especially when it's fluid with raglan sleeves. I would say that his collections are the opposite of "difficult to wear". Easy to wear then. Yes, that's it, thank you.
Colors that are out of the ordinary are always wearable and you just have to see how he wears them to immediately want to imitate him.
Why this piece?
Mustard-colored polo shirt in cotton terry.
There are fights that are fair.
And one of mine is to campaign for the return of polo. Oh, it's true that it never really went away. Or rather, it went off like a rocket.
When I say "polo", I don't mean the flashy one you wear to go golfing, or the other one with the collar turned up, or even the one you put a slightly ridiculous little logo on when you're a cool brand from the Marais.
I am campaigning for the return of two polo shirts:
- The first one is the rugby one with the big horizontal stripes.
- The second one is the one that fits into a Mad Men aesthetic. 1950s, then. The one that we would see well (and that we have seen elsewhere) on the shoulders of Don Draper, or Marcello Mastroianni, or Jude Law in The Talented Mr Ripley.
Here, I like it because it is knitted I think and that gives a seductive and enviable nonchalance. That and the fact that the collar is worked, as well as the raglan shoulders, the bottom of the sleeves and the polo shirt. But just what is needed.
The material of the Camoshita polo shirt is a cotton terry , that is to say it is the same material as a bath towel or a bathrobe. I have never worn one yet but I have the idea that it is perfect for the summer, not being afraid of sweating a little in it.
Well that said, at €210 a piece, I'm not 100% convinced I'll want to sweat in it. Maybe if I get it during the sales.
The material seen more closely. And in white yes. (Seen on the No Man Walks Alone eshop)
To wear a polo shirt well, in my opinion, is to wear it as if you were wearing a very casual shirt.
A bit like this, if we want to wear it as sportswear:
Lookbook Christian Kimber SS19
Or, a little more chic, 50s, like here:
So ! Camoshita SS2018 Lookbook
Aviatic jogpants
😱 😱
Why the brand?
I didn't know this brand before I knew it. And now that I know it, I realize that I don't know it.
The reason for this is that the brand stopped producing for a certain period. It shares the same boss with the eshop Elevation Store , which we particularly like because they have a nose for selecting beautiful nuggets.
Aviatic seems to be back. And that's a good thing, since you can feel the effort put into the making of each piece. It's done mainly in France and Portugal for some pieces, like this gem.
This makes me want to do a little brand test...
Update from Elevation Store
"Aviatic is a French brand that has existed since 1982 to be exact. At the time, it was one of the pioneering French brands in the import of Japanese fabrics and French manufacturing. Today, manufacturing is in Portugal as well as very limited series in France.
The materials are also essentially Japanese but we can find some Italian or Belgian fabrics, and occasionally French ones too.
The style is quite broad. There can be workwear, sartorial, military elements but also a bit of streetwear. It all depends on how each person wants to interpret certain pieces. Even if there is a dominance of workwear."
Why this piece?
This is the nugget that made my jaw drop. I was wandering the great boulevards of the internet, when at the bend of a slightly less busy alley, I came across these jogpants.
I'm not a regular jogger, but I'm getting into it, especially if it's just an elastic waistband, a drawstring, but the bottom of the leg doesn't have any elastic to tighten the calf. It suits me fine like that.
Especially since, once adjusted to the right leg length and a t-shirt over it, you can easily pass them off as chinos. Anyway.
The big crush I had on this piece is more due to its material than its shape in the end.
Oh, the beautiful material. It does something to me to see that.
It gives me the impression that a painter drew these lines with a fine brush, pressing more or less.
I find the stripes subtle and not first degree, with this irregularity in the line . Just as I will prefer on a suit the tennis stripes to the more clear and well-drawn stripes which seem to me to be devoid of interest. There, there are things to see, things to say.
Let's say them precisely because it is a Japanese indigo fabric in wabash.
The wa-what? Wabash.
Let's start at the beginning: the Wabash is a river in America, crossing the states of Ohio, Illinois and Indiana. In the 18th century, many Native American tribes settled around this river and formed a political grouping that they called The Wabash Confederation.
And this group of tribes wove patterned fabrics, decorative and creative things. which they sold to white workers.
Thereupon, JL Stiefl & Son seized upon this wabash fabric to market it on clothing intended for manual work, particularly railway employees.
It is therefore a fabric that was worn in workwear outfits only.
A simple and effective way to wear the piece. The jogpants are enough to give a nice personality to the outfit. ( Elevation Store )
A fatigue pants General Office
Happy Jordy (BonneGueule work jacket, April 77 chambray shirt, William L. 1985 watch, Officine Générale fatigue pants, vintage bag found at Brut Clothing, Converse)
Why Officine Générale?
OG, as no one calls it, is a useful brand for everyday outfits. Because the originality of the creations lies less in the nature of the pieces than in the subtly different materials and refined patterns.
Personally, the brand also speaks to me through its worked cuts: I find the moderate width that I like in the carrot-cut pants, the shirts that don't hug the body. I simply regret the overly narrow lapels of the jackets. But I also understand that this is part of a French style that exports well internationally.
At OG, even the simplest fabric has things to say. Officine is a bit of a treasure trove, as Michel showed in the article preceding mine.
Why this piece?
A little shimmering zoom.
First of all, I have to tell you that this piece comes from the recent sale that the brand organized. Yes, it is often a privilege to be in Paris. Even if, to talk about Officine Générale in particular, the brand gives in to private sales regularly with 30 or 40% off.
Well, here it was more. Much more in fact.
And so less. Much less in fact.
30€.
It's indecent, I know.
To tell you the truth, I don't know if these pants were ever marketed or if they were an abandoned prototype. Still, it's a piece that has strength. Not really strong, but it gives off something. You really have to get a little closer for it to release its full potential.
The form chosen by the brand is the fatigue pants. These pants of military origin, which the GI's wore when they were not in combat , was part of the official uniform from 1952 to the end of 1980, the OG-107, "OG" meaning "olive green".
Officine Générale has kept the shape of the fatigue pants, with its characteristic large patch pockets on the front, flap pockets on the buttocks and this "olive green" color. On the other hand, it has modernized it, with a more fitted cut than the original pants and this herringbone fabric finish.
This finish does not come from nowhere, since it was present on the American military trousers that preceded this one and were used during the Korean War period, the HBT, that is to say the "Herringbone Twill", in other words the chevroned twill, one could say.
Up close you can see the pockets worked with a special stitch and the herringbone fabric.
Green pants are extremely practical in a wardrobe and I like their military touch. They go with blue, brown, camel, white of course, light gray is superb and then if you wear purple you can claim your love for the Joker from Batman.
Fatigue pants can be found at Drapeau Noir, Orslow, The Real McCoy, Champ de Manoeuvres, Closed, Universal Works, Aviatic in particular. Paradoxically, they are very modern pants that contemporary brands like to introduce.
And I would even say that if you have a good pair of jeans, beige chinos and olive green fatigue pants, you don't need anything else to dress your legs.
