The backpack has a special place in men's “heavy luggage”. A 48-hour potbelly is certainly perfect for a long weekend with friends, nestled nicely in the trunk for a round trip by car, but is impractical to carry over the distance. A suitcase on wheels is at home in a tiled airport hall, but will stick out its tongue on stony paths or old cobblestones. No, definitely, for certain destinations and uses, a good backpack remains irreplaceable.
However, as soon as we look for a travel backpack, we are quickly assailed by the techwear lobby, Carryology in the lead. With on one side the crispy materials and problematic colors of the hiking bag. On the other, nylon and “soft” bags of “tactical” inspiration. So many aesthetics that don't necessarily make workwear lovers, among whom I place myself, dream.
Now, what to do ?
I see you coming: “ and you haven’t looked at Bleu de Chauffe, Tanner Goods, Atelier de l’Armée, all that…?” . Well yes. And if their products make my little heart beat wildly, I invite you to study the prices, which are dissuasive... However, my daydreams of adventures in front of their catalogs were not (only) wasted time and ended up wearing their fruits.
Indeed, several of these brands have used, throughout their collections, a material that immediately caught my eye: a magnificent heather gray canvas, prettily named Salt & Pepper . Their product sheets unanimously referenced a legendary Swiss army staffing model, produced between the 1940s and 1970s. A model that Nigel Cabourn even ended up reproducing in collaboration with Atelier de l'Armée.
Magnificent or not magnificent? Gorgeous. But 800 euros…
The idea of vintage then came to me. Some research on this famous Swiss Army Rucksack later, and I was in the Brut Clothing showroom in Paris. I came out with a 1966 model in perfect condition under my arm, only relieved of a hundred euros. #Win.
I was happy to finally own a bag with a devastating look, but still far from understanding all of its surprising secrets. Details that I am delighted to present to you, in the order of my discoveries…
Built like a luxury tank
With the beauty of materials, workwear aficionados have an obsession: tailoring. The quality of which is essential to ensure the proper aging of their favorite pieces and the development of a desirable “patina”. This is why the words selvedge , goodyear and triple-stitch tickle their ears like ASMR.
Now, that's the first thing I noticed about this Salt & Peppper freshly brought home, while I was brushing it with soap to get rid of its little second-hand smell. Leaning over it for a long time, I was able to admire the details of a construction that was not half-measured.
Starting with its leathers, vegetable-tanned pieces assembled by hand, saddle-stitched by one of the many Swiss saddlers who supplied the Swiss army. And whose hallmark and city of origin are still visible.
This ultra-quality know-how results in regular, numerous and perfectly straight seams throughout, despite the solid thickness (3–4 mm) of the parts used. Above all: each strap, each clip, each carabiner loop is secured on the back of the canvas by a new plate of the same leather, generously sewn. Impressive.
Other witnesses to this superlative confection:
- The strap attachment points are not sewn, but double riveted through the shell of the bag, attached to a sandwich of metal plates and leather reinforcements.
The rivets pass through a first (double) layer of leather, the canvas cover, a metal plate and another square of leather. The U-shaped seam reinforces everything. The square of leather, inside, covers the metal plate while finally being sewn to the canvas (the square seam). In short: heavy construction. We also see here the saddler's mark, its grain and the year of production.
- The upper flap is reinforced by two grosgrain strips, intended to absorb the tensile forces of the closing straps.
We also see the two leather reinforcement pieces inside the flap which secure the straps (photo credit Brut Clothing)
- As for the interior seams, they are all bound. The others are systematically reinforced by breakpoints as big as this.
A foolproof material
After rubbing and re-rubbing the beast, I generally ended up regaining the original shine of this famous Salt & Pepper canvas. Logically greened by 50 years of accumulated dirt.
By then moving away a few steps, the effect is not missed. But what a face! A vintage style without looking old. A real adventurer's face. An undeniable badass aura. Which has also earned him a few appearances in the cinema, including recently alongside Brad Pitt in Allied, with Marion Cotillard.
In a modified version. He would also appear in Godzilla ac Jean Reno. And Collateral Damage with Schwarzie.
What is first striking is the mineral shine of the fabric. The subtle, irregular pattern creates a slight optical illusion which was to aid camouflage among the alpine rocks. Another consequence, the combination of gray fabric and brown leather is a classic that goes with all the colors of an outfit.
Next comes the canvas hand. Very thick (around twenty oz), it has a slightly rough grainy texture and a rigidity which gives the bag hold and solidity . It's simple, after more than 50 years of activity, my copy only has two or three minor dents, far from compromising its integrity.
The very tight weave of the material is even supposed to make it resistant to rain. Having washed it with plenty of water, although it is true that it will have a little trouble at first, the liquid will still end up penetrating. As is almost always the case for these supposedly waterproof materials.
When hiking in Scotland where this parameter becomes essential, I have seen that some have gone so far as to wax the canvas of their Salt & Pepper with Barbour wax. As always with this maneuver, the material darkens noticeably and takes on another character but its resistance to water must logically be affected.
The result of the marriage of this robust material to die-hard artisanal manufacturing: a Rucksack quite close to indestructibility, which properly maintained, should be able to be passed on to your descendants. Who should be able to pass it on to theirs. Or what archaeologists will find of our civilization.
For use, when hiking
Washed interior and exterior. Greased leathers. I was ready for the ride. I can already hear the preliminary questions here: “ok but with what kind of loading? How long are you going with this? Because my suitcase…”
Capacity, for a week in summer
In terms of volume, the bag should be around 50 liters, even if the flexibility of its closure and the long straps of its flap allow you to cheat a little. Personally, I use it whenever my needs for a getaway exceed the packing cube and the capacity of my Filson 257.
Concretely, I easily put two medium-sized packing cubes , a smaller double-decker model, a pair of low shoes, a few pocket books and a light jacket tucked under the flap into the main compartment (without interior pockets). Which in summer gives me enough clothes for a week. Ten days with a little organization...
Added to this is the exterior pocket, which easily swallows up a toiletry bag, glasses cases and my utility roll.
Important information, which I have not found anywhere and which will save you from a surge of anxiety the day before your flight: in this simple configuration, and by removing the removable leather straps of the bag from the view of zealous controllers, its proportions allow it to fit into the cabin of an airliner.
However, if this capacity seems limited to you, that's where a whole set of loops and carabiner loops on the main flap, the sides of the bag and its front come into play. These allow you to securely harness almost anything you want: tent, blanket, water bottle, ice axes, ropes, crampons, etc.
Example with a cover strapped to the head of the bag.
In the middle, a “bread bag”, a sort of shopping bag, also in salt & pepper canvas, which could be attached to the bag, around the belt or over the shoulder…
I can hear you now saying “ok it’s cool, but does it still have to be rustic to wear your thing?” …
The comfort, astonishing
Now this is a big strong point of this bag, which reveals all the ingenuity of its construction. And this despite non-padded leather straps.
Thanks in particular to a killer ergonomic detail. A feature that I had never seen before: a suspension strap at the lumbar level.
Smart idea for at least two reasons:
- Firstly, it prevents the bottom of the bag from indelicately rubbing the kidneys. This grosgrain belt stretched between the ends of a metal arc (itself attached to the aluminum frame) hugs the lower back and cushions the weight evenly. No more bag that moves and hits when you walk.
Lumbar Suspension = Game Changer. We also see a nice detail: this metal buckle allows you to open the bag strap with one gesture. And to free yourself from it in an emergency. In the mountains, it should help.
- This suspension, coupled with the concave back frame of the bag, then prevents it from pressing directly against the back. It doesn't seem like much, but it's a big goodbye to the eternal flaw of the backpack format: the swamp back , or the back sweating that we've all experienced after a few minutes of carrying it. . Avoiding a soaked back after a day of walking in the Alpine cold must have been critical for the Swiss soldier. In the suffocating heat of the Japanese summer where I showed off my bag, the thing bordered on genius just as much.
Another detail contributing to comfort is the V-shaped profile of the bag, whose rigid bottom is narrower than the opening. Its center of gravity is thus located higher and allows for better balance for my taste: by leaning forward a little, you are immediately pulled back.
We can clearly see the V-shaped profile and the small leather carabiner loop on the side seam (photo credit Brut Clothing)
Its large leather base finally gives it a stable, all-terrain vertical seat. The only slight downside for die-hard hikers: the absence of a pectoral link between the straps to prevent them from drifting to the sides. Slight defect that I felt but which will be easy to remedy using a cord or a small strap.
A bag born to last
One question: why SWITZERLAND?
Since the 16th century the Confederacy has been a neutral nation. Its army therefore specialized in the defense of its borders, mainly made up of mountains. This rugged terrain complicates logistics, with supplies for the troops stationed in the heights having for a long time even had to be done on the backs of men.
The Swiss soldier in his mountains must therefore be able to operate there with maximum autonomy in harsh conditions. The robustness and good design of its equipment became critical parameters. Hence a tradition of military equipment held in high esteem.
Designed during the 1930s under high international geopolitical tension, the bag that interests us today was to replace a sort of hairy leather haversack reminiscent of the 19th century. It was one of the first times that a bag was truly designed for mountain use, incorporating cutting-edge technologies for the time. As such, this bag and its variants can be considered precursors of modern mountaineering equipment.
Here is the ancestor of the Salt & Pepper bag, from another era...
During the Second World War, Switzerland remained neutral and found itself surrounded by Axis forces. Which gently limit its imports, particularly cotton. The little that enters the country is dedicated to the manufacture of clothing, the Swiss army must search among its mountains for a substitute textile.
She will find it with a robust and abundant fiber: nettle. Equipped with high performance properties
This story, popular online, was however contradicted to me by different oral sources. Post-WWII Salt & Peppers would no longer contain nettle… The fact remains that this canvas is remembered for its resistance and its beauty. Its use by the Swiss army continued until the 1970s and its gradual replacement by the first synthetic technical materials. Longevity proof of its good design.
The final word
In the world of design, Switzerland is a nation that counts. After a year of romance with my Salt & Pepper, and discovering all these little design details that ensure its excellent function, I now better understand why.
If you were squinting like me at Bleu de Chauffe & Co, attracted by their raw apple aesthetic, but without being able to justify spending €300–400 on a backpack, I hope I have made you want to look into these little pieces of history.
Their robustness no longer needs to be proven, their ergonomics are surprising and their pedigree is impeccable. However, I recommend that you act quickly, things are starting to become known and their prices are reportedly increasing on the vintage market.
Once in your hands, you'll just have to get out the elbow grease and scrub a little. But I promise, they will add flavor to your travels... Pepper... Salt... Did you have it?
