You probably know this item of clothing.
You may even already be wearing it.
You will have guessed it by reading the title: we are going to talk about the work jacket . It is also sometimes called workwear jacket or chore jacket in English
In this first part, we will see:
- The history and anatomy of the work jacket
- Our advice for choosing the right one
In the second part which you can read here , we give you:
- Our advice for wearing it well
- Our brand recommendations
History of the work jacket
There are different sources to trace its origin. One of them, the one that interests us today and which comes up regularly is that the work jacket is a garment of French origin.
Imagined at the end of the 19th century, it was popularized in our regions from 1913 by the Mont Saint Michel brand.
Among the iconic brands offering it, we also find Le Laboureur , which has been making it since 1956.
This garment is used by all types of manual workers: farmers, carpenters, railway workers, etc.
The work jacket meets different needs:
- It is robust and keeps you warm thanks to its compact cotton fabric.
- It is functional thanks to its pockets which allow you to store tools and other small objects.
In this photo from 1949, we can see the patina of the jackets and we can make out the filled pocket of the gentleman in the foreground. Photo by Kurt Hutton/Picture Post/Hulton Archive/Getty Images
This jacket is historically made from moleskin
A moleskin seen up close. Source
A twill , the diagonal lines of which can be distinguished as you approach. Universal Works
It is also a piece of clothing that we will see in the cinema, for example in 1967 in the film Cool Hand Luke with Paul Newman:
Photo by FilmPublicityArchive/United Archives via Getty Images
Anatomy of the work jacket
The work jacket is an item of clothing that is easy to describe and recognize.
Its main visual characteristics are as follows: it is a buttoned jacket, reaching mid-buttocks, with a shirt collar, buttoned cuffs and patch pockets.
A sketch of the work jacket by Le Mont Saint Michel
To be more precise, it traditionally has a five-button throat and three patch pockets, two low (on the right and left) and one high (on the left).
This form has survived the decades and it is still the one we mostly see today. The clothing has changed little over time.
Of course, brands have taken this piece and worked on it in their own way, with more or fewer pockets, buttons, a different collar, etc.
Four patch pockets from Blue Blue Japan and an original patchwork fabric
A very creative vision of the work jacket at Maison Margiela
Choosing the right work jacket
1. The cut
The work jacket, due to its functional aspect and its heritage, is a garment that has a rather straight cut , with little shaping.
This doesn't mean that all work jackets are very baggy, but if you're used to close-fitting fits, the result may surprise you the first time you try one on.
The garment is designed like this, this cut is normal.
Universal Works is more of a workwear brand...
... this work jacket has a straight cut, without any real shaping
If you want a work jacket with a fitted cut, you have to look at brands with a more contemporary, casual style and less workwear or heritage.
Officine Générale , a rather contemporary, fashionable brand...
... this work jacket has a slight bend at the sides
2. The material
There are two main types of material on work jackets.
On the one hand, work jackets with a more authentic style which are most of the time in 100% cotton .
These jackets can use moleskin or twill as seen in the first part, but they can also be made of cotton canvas for example to maintain this workwear aspect.
A canvas at Tonton et Fils
If you are looking for vintage work jackets or work jackets in the strict sense
We do not recommend these models. 100% cotton work jackets are robust enough for urban use.
60% cotton, 40% polyester here
On the other hand, you will find work jackets in more creative materials . At this level, there are no real limits: you can make a work jacket in knitted fabric, leather, wool , etc.
3. Color
There are also two schools here.
The classic color for the work jacket is blue, which can be found more or less light, more or less textured.
If you don't know what color to choose, go with a shade of blue .
For our workwear jacket , we chose a nuanced blue
My opinion on the color “working blue”
One color you'll find on some work jackets is Prussian blue, a fairly bright light blue. This is the typical color of work overalls.
I don't necessarily recommend this specific shade of blue, which is a bit flashy and not easy to integrate into an urban outfit.
I advise you to go for a slightly darker, more sober blue.
A little too flashy here. Rather no. Found on Amazon
A deeper blue , with purplish tints. It's better. The Mont Saint Michel
There are also work jackets in other colors , for people looking for something more original. You will find work jackets in yellow, white, brown, green, etc.
Enough to express your tastes and desires.
A salmon pink jacket at Le Mont Saint Michel...
...and an ecru one from Kidur
4. Work jacket or denim jacket: which one to choose?
If we look from a distance, these two items of clothing are quite similar: they are two jackets, workwear-inspired, often in cotton and blue in color.
The question may therefore arise which one to favor.
Universal Works work jacket
Nudie Jeans Denim Jacket
In addition to personal taste (you may prefer the aesthetic of one or the other), there is a big difference which should be enough to help you make your choice:
- The work jacket is longer. It arrives around the middle of the buttocks.
- The denim jacket is shorter. It arrives at the top or above the buttocks.
So :
- If you are rather tall or prefer longer jackets, choose a work jacket
- If you are rather short or prefer shorter jackets, choose a denim jacket
The difference is quite visible if we look at the rendering, jackets worn:
