Photo credit: Borasification.
Disclaimer: we welcome a new contributor to our columns, Mathieu, a workwear enthusiast. Faced with increasingly hot days, he gives us his (rich) thoughts on a question that has long troubled him: how to create workwear looks in summer? The floor is his!
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Why ask such a question? Simply because raw denim, flannel and work boots are not very suitable for the summer temperatures that turn most cities into saunas...
Passionate about workwear, lovers of imperfect indigos, fans of Japanese wabi-sabi, my quest for a "raw" style quickly came up against the scorching heat of the sunny days .
The heart of the problem comes from the very essence of the workwear style: born to respond to the harsh conditions of the Great American North or the rigors of the factory, it is characterized by its robustness and thickness. Suddenly, it quickly becomes difficult to deal with the heat of a July weekend with friends.
When the 20 oz of your gorgeous Oni Denim turns against you.
To my great surprise, I realized that the web did not offer satisfactory answers to this problem. Even the wise Nicolo, who is used to readers' questions, only half satisfied me...
For your information, it was almost two years ago. Since then, I have been maturing a personal reflection at the same time as this stylistic quest, and I believe it is useful to share it with you today.
So how can you develop a resolutely workwear style during the (very) nice days ? That's what we're going to see together.
It's all about influence(s)
Like many styles, workwear is built on emblematic figures, mythologized, reinterpreted endlessly. Old-fashioned worker, bearded lumberjack, fifties biker, vintage sailor… Laudable references but not suitable for summer.
To face the rise in mercury, the most relevant tip, to my knowledge, remains to diversify your palette of references and draw inspiration from neighboring styles . “Cousin” workwear archetypes more suited to southern, even tropical temperatures.
We could mention the great military family, whose desert rats were not half-hard. The cinematic figure of the “spielberguized” 40s explorer. Or even certain vintage sports/streetwear inspirations dear to the great Nigel Cabourn …
Without betraying the workwear spirit, invoking inspirations that come close to it can be useful for creating looks that are suitable for high temperatures.
In short, it's about finding something to swap your inspirations without betraying your tastes and colors, to match them at leisure, according to your affinities and by trial and error. The previous list is far from exhaustive...
The importance of color choice
The workwear palette is dominated by the deep blue of indigo, which highlights its famous fades. . Beautiful, certainly, but not very practical once the temperature has passed 25°C. When the heat comes, we will prefer to lighten these blues to make them more reflective.
We can also borrow earth tones the brightest. Neutral shades that replace the range of blues in a very masculine way , while being perfectly complementary to it: olive, khaki, beige, ecru, taupe, camel, sand, rust…
White and all its off-white and ecru shades naturally have their place there, as well as light and mottled greys, referring to more sportswear worlds.
Why not play with patterns?
However, we will avoid pastel tones and overly bright colours. Indeed, they are specific to other influences and would therefore be counterproductive in our approach, which is sufficiently technical in other respects.
Some patterns can also be part of it , preferably in small touches. We can have fun with all the varieties of camo, but also some not too fine stripes evoking hickory .
Although the camouflage pattern comes from the military world, it fits perfectly into a workwear-inspired look. (Photo: Borasification ).
Large light checks, polka dots and slightly rough gingham are also possible. Just avoid tartans that are too dark and “rich”, which are more reminiscent of an autumnal world.
Patterns and workwear style are not incompatible, far from it...
The more experienced, or fans of old-style Japanese workwear, can even try their hand at denim patchwork...
More offbeat, I must confess a very personal penchant for Hawaiian-style shirts with large patterns. Open over a white tee, I find that they offer a little tropical kitsch side which, assumed, ultimately makes you quite badass.
Let your inner Leo out.
Material rhymes with workwear
Behind every workwear fan hides a lover of beautiful materials . Those that are lovingly patinated. Taking him away from his indigo lands can be a source of anxiety for him...
Summer denim?
Let's comfort this Okayama lover first : there are miracle weights, under 10oz, that allow you to wear denim in summer. Even selvedge. Fabrics often mixed with linen or hemp, lighter, and which make the maneuver more or less playable.
This is particularly the case with specialists like Naked & Famous, Gustin or here with our Japanese canvas pants .
Some purist brands offer very thick canvases (15–20oz) but “low tension”, that is to say with a loose and airy weave. This would therefore allow these “mammoths” to be worn in hot weather. That said, I have never tested such pieces so I will refrain from any comment.
In any case, the choice of models is rather limited. In the case of lightweight denims, their strength is necessarily reduced and the washing cannot be optimal either.
A watchword, therefore: leave your comfort zone and move away from your beloved thick, raw canvases for a few weeks.
What are the alternatives to jeans?
We immediately think of Rip-stop, this military material with ultra-light cotton canvas (~6oz) reinforced by a grid of thicker nylon threads, giving it its characteristic appearance and solidity. .
Note that the rip-stop develops a very pleasant wash in the sun and with wear, which will delight fans of fades.
The military register is full of other light and resistant materials, with interesting patina and weaves . Among them,
- the US army's "sateen" and its striated texture, with a raw and original rendering,
- or very tight rafters,
- or even some slightly felted, thick and faded poplins .
Open-mindedness, especially regarding subjects, will be your best ally.
An old cousin of denim, the sturdy canvas lends itself well to superlight thicknesses , which can go down to 5oz for pants! Its grain, but also the fading that this canvas develops with use are a joy for any workwear enthusiast. However, the material is rather rare, and even more so on these weights. Too bad...
Chambray is also a natural ally in this quest for authenticity, and this since its adoption by the American Navy. Finally, linen, with its natural slub , its robustness, its nervous "hand" and its unmatched breathing is your best friend under the sun.
But you already knew that.
Linen, linen, more linen.
We will also delve at leisure into the vast world of jersey, particularly its raised textures.
On the other hand, be careful with certain materials and their possible socio-cultural connotations . I am thinking for example of pique cotton or seersucker, which belong to other registers. Worn in a look intended to be workwear, pieces in these materials are likely to be sources of inconsistency.
Which parts should you turn to?
Like everyone else in summer, the workwear fan is forced to reduce his favorite layering to its simplest expression . Hence the importance of choosing your pieces carefully.
The risk? Slipping into an outfit that isn't necessarily off-topic, but a little bland for the adventurer in you.
So the goal is to wear at least one piece that is a little more statement-making than average. Which ones?
Multiple possibilities for pants
Those who resist the call of shorts are faced with a cruel problem: how not to drown in sweat?
First, ensure your legs have free air circulation, and don't hesitate to wear slightly straight cuts or cuts that tighten at the bottom of the leg . To make them your own, you will "civilize" them with generous cuffs, in order to strategically reveal your ankles, Japanese style.
Supporting evidence.
Why not go for a little family pinroll backhand ?
A few details in passing: in both cases, invisible socks are a must. In addition, if a belt is required, it is preferable to have one in a light, plain fabric or with a simple and understated pattern. #sprezzaturepas.
Having already covered his case, let's review the substitutes for summer jeans...
Let's start with the obvious: the light twill of a chino . It is perfectly appropriate in hot weather. .
Simple and effective: chinos. (Credits: He Spoke Style)
That said, the workwear fan won't say no to stronger pieces.
We think of cargo pants , whose side pockets always find a use when you walk around in a t-shirt. You will definitely find what you are looking for at Orslow , Universal Works, Bleu de Paname, Maharishi ...
Practical and aesthetic, cargo pants are a great alternative.
More confidential, the "fatigue pant" and its large front patch pockets are a kind of chinos in a rougher, and often wider, version. To find one (or more), you will have to look at Orslow, Carhartt , Bleu de Paname, Engineered Garnements or Stan Ray.
Carhartt model.
Less expected, chambray is also worn as pants by some . In addition to the classic five-pocket (a recurring one at Naked&Famous), it looks good on easy pants . Or with a bit of elastane, in light sweatpants for an inspiration at the crossroads of streetwear (really depends on the collections).
One material, several variations.
What about shorts?
Even for the most reluctant, shorts are inevitable at the seaside or in the height of a heatwave. With so little fabric to express yourself, the pitfall of an outfit that is too smooth is never far away... So, what to do?
Are you a Bermuda shorts fanatic? This sometimes rather tame piece can be made wilder . It's just a matter of giving it, in addition to a good cuff and a slightly wide cut, or even a fairly pronounced earth tones nuance. For a stronger identity, why not wash it out frankly to suggest an adventurous mileage?
As with chinos, you can easily replace them with their “fatigue” version and their front patch pockets. .
Stan Ray model.
More classic, the timeless and essential semi-slim denim shorts are almost a "summer basic".
Isn't that right, Boras ?
You can also opt for a more sportswear model in vintage-inspired textured jersey. Its drawstrings provide a welcome detail.
By paying close attention to its cut, neither too wide nor too long, the more daring can try cargo shorts, or even monkey shorts with their large single back pocket.
For those who are used to workwear.
Nice with a lapel overflowing on the side pockets, it is a more feasible piece than its trouser equivalent, which Boris de Borasification handles with mastery.
Well, as you might expect, capri pants remain a taboo that no one should violate. Never. EVER.
T-shirts, shirts... how to manage on top?
A blank canvas to highlight all others, the T-shirt and its military subtext are a summer staple , especially when enriched with linen.
All the light tones previously mentioned are welcome, but white will have the advantage of betraying your (possible!) perspiration to a minimum.
We can give it a slightly looser cut, rolled sleeves and a buttoned collar for more ventilation. And above all... try to channel the Ryan Gosling in you.
"Workwear" takes on its full meaning here.
If the dress shirt is hard to get through, the casual shirt definitely has a right to be here. The style lover will appreciate the rich textures of chambray, linen, lightweight oxfords, subtle and light denims and even some poplins ...
The piece will push the "elegance" cursor if necessary. But in order to stay in a raw aesthetic, we will not hesitate to go for models with very worked chest pockets.
Double pockets, contrasting stitching, button closures, pen pocket, flaps, contrasting buttons, slanted opening, asymmetrical pockets or even inside pockets: so many elements to favor to stylize your look.
Details that make the difference.
The Rogue Territory jumper shirt synthesizes a lot of these details. But we can also mention Jinji and all the denim specialists: Momotaro , Fullcount, Studio D'Artisan , Pure Blue, Levis Vintage…
Neat finishes and textured materials are the basis of workwear-inspired shirts.
When it comes to collars, button-down is king. That said, a rounded club collar is also possible, as is a collarless model.
As for the tab-collar, with this little tightening tab at the base of the collar, it is a very popular detail…
The devil is not always in the details.
For the cut, you can freely experiment with looser falls, “pop-over” models like a jacket (but no polo shirts please!), raglan sleeves, rounded panels, western inserts, or even slightly elongated lengths - a nod to certain Indian influences - to spice things up...
Be inventive...
Finally, with the notable exception of the Hawaiian shirt and its assumed kitsch, I am fully on the side of Benoît: long sleeves and rolled up sleeves for all .
Finding the right shoes
This is a fairly technical point since shoes are a sensitive workwear subject, a make or break of this purist style. The difficulty lies in the fact that the hot season prohibits all the classics in thick leather. So what to do?
It is easier to proceed by elimination here, as some summer shoes are too distinctive to blend into a workwear outfit without distorting its "badass" aspect.
This is the case for all types of loafers (from tassels to driving shoes), boat shoes, brogues or suede buckles with contrasting soles, neat slip-ons and other espadrilles...
What's left? Desert boots of course! Preferably a little filed down...
Their unlined suede and crepe soles did well in 1940s Egypt, apparently.
Their cousins with sneaker soles or their wallabee sisters are also appropriate.
Clarks and Gustin have some great models.
Afterwards, we will draw solutions from a sober streetwear : classic low-tops in light canvas or light and profiled running shoes, whether they are vintage-inspired (GAT) or take advantage of a modern "technical" side, like very breathable knits.
Bonus point for natural-colored rubber soles, a personal preference that always gives a more raw and old-school side to the shoe.
Do your shopping...
Since we are not going to talk about a taboo subject, let's conclude this chapter with the case of sandals. We would much prefer more massive models to all the flip-flops and other skinny flip-flops.
And even if a fashion develops on this subject among teenagers inspired by American sportsmen, we will spare ourselves the sock-sandal combo. Please.
The outerwear corner
A welcome refreshment can encourage you to wear a little extra layer in the evening. This is a perfect opportunity to bulk out your look.
First, for our denim orthodoxies, the first Levi's Type I and II jackets were cut from a fairly light canvas: a very feasible 9oz.
Today, denim specialists offer Type III (the famous trucker jackets ) in the same featherweights.
And the design isn't bad either.
The vast world of worker jackets of all kinds is available to you . In more or less distinctive styles, in cotton or linen.
American railway worker overalls from the 50s, French blue workwear, hickory workshirt, worker jacket halfway between a blazer… or even noragi, if you fancy a Japanese experiment.
Orslow, Vesta, Gustin, Black Flag , Aesthetic Homage...
Otherwise, the military registry offers - surprise! - a bunch of nice options.
Luca wouldn't say otherwise.
Jungle or field jackets, M43 jackets and overshirts with plenty of chest pockets... you're spoiled for choice. Especially since fashion has spread its khakis on almost every window display this season. Easy.
Maharishi model. Be careful with the total look.
However, we should warn against the accumulation of military pieces that are too strong: The goal is not to disguise yourself as a soldier. We therefore advise you not to double your large cargo with an M65, to avoid giving an unsightly redundant effect. Be careful.
Look on the Internet, there are many sources of inspiration!
Moreover, the timeless military item adopted by streetwear is obviously the classic bomber jacket.
Yes indeed!
Whether it's ripstop, chambray, unlined nylon, or linen canvas, if the MA1 is good for Steve McQueen, it's good for you.
You will easily find them at Norse Project , Naked & Famous or even Alpha Industries …
For wetter trips (think Asian monsoons), a lightweight, waterproof coach jacket with clean lines can come in handy! Impeccable hip-hop street cred for style: what more could you ask for?
In the picture, it looks like this. Lined with a pretty camouflage pattern, it is a piece that can become very strong.
And if it's really necessary, a plain sweatshirt in a not-too-thick jersey and a neutral tone will remain your best friend for any barbecue evening under the stars. Why not with short sleeves, in reference to the world of boxing.
Finally, a little thought for Benoit and his beloved mid-layer. A cotton vest or one made from a more insulating material can definitely be considered when the humidity drops or to manage transport that is a little too air-conditioned.
They come in a variety of styles, truly something for everyone.
Accessories with style
They are numerous and welcome in summer, in order to enhance outfits that are too plain .
First of all: the watch. We will especially worry about the strap, taking care to choose a Nato or perlon strap to avoid sweating on the wrist. Leather and metal are, during the summer period, to be avoided...
The kind of bracelets to favor to avoid sweating.
Essential under the sun, a good pair of glasses is also essential. The workwear lover will stay away from any futuristic or slightly bling shape, to focus on the classics.
Lots and lots and lots of style in one photo.
Metal frames will bring a more gruff military flavor, where acetates will bring more sophistication. We will pass on the world of mirrored, polarized or colored lenses… which we will leave to the EDM festival-goers.
Acetate can work very well in a workwear look.
Headwear is another complex subject, which requires above all assurance and self-confidence. Without being an expert on this rather "advanced" subject, I mainly see three major workwear-compatible possibilities :
- fedoras a little rinsed,
- caps and trucker hats,
- and bucket hats or bobs (especially in denim) brought back into fashion by streetwear and Japan in recent times.
Sometimes useful and often stylish, airy scarves and rolled bandanas will, if necessary, protect your neck from the sun or the evening chill, while enhancing your build.
Tips & tricks for a heatwave: a damp bandana wrapped around your neck is a joy in the heat.
Finally, accumulating not too imposing bracelets and/or nice rings, or even necklaces, can be a good idea to liven up an outfit that is too minimalist. Pearl, silver, turquoise, fabric, coins, treat yourself. You can take a look at Harpo, Gudule and Tant d'Avenir for example.
The final word
Sporting a workwear style in summer is therefore not so complicated by choosing a few pieces, their materials and their colors.
Looking for them can even be an opportunity to pivot towards new influences, to broaden one's horizons and to enrich one's stylistic vocabulary. This is, in my opinion, what everyone should always seek to do to refine their personal swag...
There's more to life than denim. Try, experiment, discover and stay (cool).
