Tip: how to create workwear looks in summer?

Photo credit: Borasification.

Disclaimer: we welcome a new contributor to our columns, Mathieu, passionate about workwear. Faced with increasingly hot days, he gives us his (rich) thoughts on a question that has disturbed him for a long time: how to create workwear looks in summer? The floor is his!

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Why ask such a question? Quite simply because raw denim, flannel and work boots are not very suitable for the summer temperatures which transform most cities into saunas...

Passionate about workwear, lovers of imperfect indigo, fans of Japanese wabi-sabi, my quest for a "raw" style quickly came up against the scorching heat of sunny days .

The heart of the problem comes from the very essence of workwear style: born to respond to the rough conditions of the American Far North or the rigors of the factory, it is characterized by its robustness and thickness. As a result, it quickly becomes difficult to deal with the hassle of a July weekend with friends.

To my great astonishment, I realized that the web did not offer satisfactory answers to this problem. Even the wise Nicolo, although accustomed to questions from readers, only satisfied me half…

For your information, that was almost two years ago. Since then, I have been developing a personal reflection at the same time as this stylistic quest, and I believe it is useful to share it with you today.

How, then, can we develop a resolutely workwear style during the (very) sunny days ? This is what we are going to see together.

It's all about influence(s)

Like many styles, workwear is built on iconic, mythologized figures, reinterpreted endlessly. Old-fashioned worker, bearded lumberjack, fifties biker, vintage sailor… laudable references but not suitable for summer.

To face the rise in mercury, the most relevant tip, to my knowledge, remains to diversify your palette of references and draw inspiration from neighboring styles . “Cousin” workwear archetypes more suited to southern, even tropical temperatures.

We could cite the great military family, whose desert rats were not half-tough. The cinematic figure of the 1940s explorer “spielberguized”. Or even some vintage sports/streetwear inspirations dear to the great Nigel Cabourn …

In short, it's about finding something to exchange your inspirations without betraying your tastes and colors, to match them at your leisure, according to your affinities and through trial and error. The previous list is far from exhaustive…

The importance of color choice

The workwear palette is dominated by the deep blue of indigo, which highlights its famous fades . Beautiful, certainly, but not very passable once you pass the 25°C mark. When the heat comes, we will prefer to lighten these blues to make them more reflective.

We can also borrow earth tones the brightest. Neutral shades which replace the range of blues in a very masculine way , while being perfectly complementary to it: olive, khakis, beige, ecru, taupe, camel, sand, rust...

White and all its off-white and ecru shades naturally have their place, as well as light and mottled grays, referring to more sportswear worlds.

However, pastel tones and too bright colors should be avoided. Indeed, they are specific to other influences and would therefore be counterproductive in our approach, which is otherwise sufficiently technical.

Certain patterns can also be included , preferably in small touches. We can have fun with all the varieties of camo, but also some not too fine stripes evoking hickory .

Large light checks, polka dots and slightly raw gingham are also possible. We will just avoid tartans that are too dark and “rich”, which refer more to an autumnal universe.

The more experienced, or fans of old-fashioned Japanese workwear, can even try denim patchwork...

More offbeat, I must confess a very personal penchant for Hawaiian-style shirts with large patterns. Opened over a white tee, I find that they offer a little tropical kitsch side which, admittedly, ultimately makes them quite badass.

Material rhymes with workwear

Behind every workwear fan lies a lover of beautiful materials . Ones that are patinated with love. Moving him away from his indigo lands can, for him, be a source of anxiety...

Summer denim?

Let's comfort this Okayama lover first : there are many miracle weights, under 10oz, allowing you to wear denim in summer. Same selvedge. Canvases often mixed with linen or hemp, lighter, and which make the maneuver more or less playable.

Some purist brands offer very thick canvases (15–20oz) but “low tension”, that is to say with a loose and airy weave. This would therefore allow these “mammoths” to be worn in hot weather. That said, I have never tested such parts so I will refrain from commenting.

In any case, the choice of models is rather limited. In the case of light denim, their strength is necessarily reduced and the washing cannot be optimal either.

A word of advice, therefore: leave your comfort zone and get away from your beloved thick raw canvases for a few weeks.

What alternatives to jeans?

We immediately think of Rip-stop, this military material with ultra-light cotton canvas (~6oz) reinforced by a grid of thicker nylon threads, giving it its characteristic appearance and solidity. .

The military register is full of other light and resistant materials, with patina and interesting weaves . Among them,

• the "sateen" of the US army and its striated texture, with a raw and original rendering,

• or very tight rafters,

• even some slightly felted, thick and faded poplins .

An old cousin of denim, the robust canvas lends itself well to superlight thicknesses , which can go down to 5oz for pants! Its grain, but also the fading that this canvas develops with use, are a joy for any workwear lover. However, the material is rather rare, and even more so on these weights. Damage...

Chambray is also a perfect ally in this quest for authenticity, since its adoption by the American Navy. Finally linen, with its natural slub , its robustness, its nervous “hand” and its unrivaled breathing is your best friend under the sun.

But you already knew that.

We will also draw at our leisure from the vast world of jersey, particularly in terms of its raised textures.

On the other hand, pay attention to certain subjects and their possible socio-cultural connotations . I'm thinking, for example, of cotton pique or seersucker, which belong to other registers. Sported in a workwear look, pieces in these materials are likely to be sources of inconsistency.

Which parts to turn to?

Like everyone else in summer, workwear fans are forced to reduce their layering fetish to its simplest expression . Hence the importance of choosing your pieces carefully.

The risk ? Slip on an outfit that's not necessarily off-topic, but a little bland for the adventurer in you.

The goal is therefore to wear at least one piece that is a little more marked than average. Which ones?

Multiple possibilities for pants

Those who resist the call of shorts find themselves faced with a cruel problem: how not to collapse under sweat?

First, ensure your legs have free circulation of air, and don't hesitate on cuts that are a little straight or that tighten at the bottom of the leg . To appropriate them, we will “civilize” them via generous lapels, in order to strategically reveal our ankles, in the Japanese style.

Small details in passing: in both cases, an invisible sock is required. In addition, if the belt is required, we prefer it in a light plain fabric or with a simple and sober pattern. #sprezzaturepas.

Having already dealt with his case, let's review the substitutes for summer jeans...

Let's start with the obvious: the light twill of a chino . It is perfectly suitable for hot weather. .

That said, the workwear fan won't say no to stronger pieces.

We think of cargo pants , whose side pockets are always useful when you're walking around in a t-shirt. You will definitely find what you are looking for at Orslow , Universal Works, Bleu de Paname, Maharishi ...

More confidential, the "fatigue pant" and its large front patch pockets are a kind of chinos that are more raw, and often wider. To find one (or more), you will have to look at Orslow, Carhartt , Bleu de Paname, Engineered Garnements or Stan Ray.

Less expected, chambray is also worn as pants by some . In addition to the classic five pockets (a recurring one at Naked&Famous), it looks good on an easy pant . Or with a little elastane, in light sweatpants for an inspiration at the crossroads of streetwear (really depends on the collections).

What about shorts?

Even for the most resistant, shorts are inevitable by the sea or at the height of the heatwave. With so little fabric to express yourself, the pitfall of an outfit that's too smooth is never far away... So, what to do?

Are you a fan of Bermuda shorts? This sometimes somewhat demure piece can be made wilder . It's just a matter of offering it, in addition to a good lapel and a slightly wide cut, or even a fairly pronounced shade of earth tones . For a stronger identity, why not clean it up to suggest adventurous mileage?

As in the case of chinos, it can easily be replaced with its “fatigue” version and its front patch pockets. .

More classic, the timeless and essential semi-slim denim shorts are almost a “summer basic”.

We can also occasionally opt for a more sportswear model in vintage-inspired textured jersey. Its drawstrings provide a welcome detail.

By paying close attention to its cut, neither too wide nor too long, the most daring can try cargo shorts, or even monkey shorts and their large single back pocket.

Nice with an overflowing cuff on the side pockets, it is a more feasible piece than its trouser equivalent, which Boris de Borasification handles with mastery.

Well, we suspect it, but cropped pants remain a taboo that no one should violate. Never. NEVER.

T-shirts, shirts... how to manage at the top?

A blank canvas highlighting all the others, the t-shirt and its military subtext are obvious in summer , especially enriched with linen.

All the light tones previously mentioned are welcome, but white will have the advantage of at least betraying your (possible!) perspiration.

We can offer it a slightly looser cut, rolled sleeves and a buttoned collar, for more ventilation. And above all... try to channel the Ryan Gosling inside you.

If the dress shirt is difficult to wear, the casual shirt definitely has its rightful place. The style lover will appreciate the rich textures of chambray, linen, light Oxfords, subtle and light denims and even certain poplins ...

The piece will push the “elegance” slider if necessary. But in order to stay with a raw aesthetic, we will not hesitate to opt for models with very elaborate chest pockets.

Double pockets, contrasting stitching, button closures, pen pocket, flaps, contrasting buttons, slanted opening, asymmetrical pocket or even interior pocket: so many elements to stylize your look.

The Rogue Territory 'jumper shirt' synthesizes quite a few of these details. But we can also cite Jinji and all the denim specialists: Momotaro , Fullcount, Studio D'Artisan , Pure Blue, Levis Vintage...

At the collar, the button-down is king. That said, a rounded club collar is also possible, as is a collarless model.

As for the tab-collar, with this little tightening tab at the base of the collar, it’s a very popular detail…

For the cut, you can freely experiment with looser falls, “pop-over” peacoat style models (but no polo shirts please!), raglan sleeves, rounded sides, western inserts, or even slightly slender lengths. - a nod to certain Indian influences - to spice things up...

Finally, with the notable exception of the Hawaiian shirt and its assumed kitsch, I am fully on Benoît's side: long sleeves and rolling for everyone .

Find the right shoes

This is a fairly technical point insofar as shoes are a sensitive workwear subject, a make or break of this purist style. The difficulty lies in the fact that the hot season prohibits all the classics in thick leather. Now, what to do ?

It is simpler here to proceed by elimination, some summer shoes being too marked to blend into a workwear outfit without distorting its "badassness".

This is the case for all types of moccasins (from tassels to driving shoes), boat shoes, brogues or suede buckles with contrasting soles, neat slip-ons and other espadrilles…

What's left? Desert boots of course! Preferably a little filed...

Their unlined suede and crepe soles did well in 1940s Egypt, it seems.

Their cousins ​​with sneaker soles or their wallabee sisters are also appropriate.

Afterwards, we will draw solutions from sober streetwear : classic low-tops in light canvas or light and profiled running shoes, whether they are vintage-inspired (GAT) or take advantage of a modern "technical" side, like well-knit knits breathable.

Bonus point for natural-colored rubber soles, a personal preference which always gives a more raw and old-school side to the shoe.

As we are no longer close to a taboo subject, let us conclude this chapter with the case of sandals. We will much prefer more massive models to all the flip-flops and other skinny slides.

And even if a fashion develops in this regard among adolescents inspired by US athletes, we will spare ourselves the sock-sandals combo. Please.

The outerwear corner

A welcome refreshment may encourage wearing a little extra layer in the evening. The opportunity comes at the right time to enhance its appearance.

First, for our denim orthodox, the first Levi's Type I and II jackets were cut from a fairly light canvas: a very possible 9oz.

Today, denim specialists offer Type IIIs (the famous trucker jackets ) in the same featherweights.

The vast world of worker jackets of all kinds is available to you . In more or less marked styles, in cotton or linen.

American railway worker's overalls from the 50's, French overalls, hickory workshirt, worker-jacket halfway to a blazer... or even Noragi, if a Japanese experiment tempts you.

Otherwise, the military register offers - surprise! - a bunch of nice options.

Jungle or field jackets, M43 jackets and overshirts with plenty of chest pockets... you are spoiled for choice. Especially since fashion has spread its khakis on almost every window this season. Easy.

However, we would caution against the accumulation of military pieces that are too strong: the goal is not to disguise yourself as a soldier. We therefore advise against lining your large cargo ship with an M65, so as not to give an unsightly redundant effect. Vigilance.

Furthermore, the timeless military piece dubbed by streetwear is obviously the classic bomber jacket.

Whether it's ripstop, chambray, unlined nylon, or linen canvas, if the MA1 is good for Steve McQueen, it's good for you.

In case of wetter trips (we think of the Asian monsoons), a light and waterproof coach-jacket with clean lines can prove useful! Impeccable hip-hop street cred at the service of style: what are the people asking for?

And if it's really necessary, a plain jersey sweatshirt that's not too thick and in a neutral tone will remain your best friend for any barbecue evening under the stars. Why not short sleeves, in reference to the world of boxing.

Finally, a little thought of Benoit and his beloved mid-layer. A cotton vest or one made from a more insulating material can definitely be considered when the humidity drops or to manage transport that is a little too air-conditioned.

Accessories with style

They are numerous and welcome in summer, to enhance outfits that are too plain .

First of them: the watch. We will especially worry about the bracelet, taking care to choose a Nato or perlon bracelet to avoid sweating on the wrist. Leather and metal should be avoided during the summer...

Indispensable in the sun, a good pair of glasses is also essential. The workwear lover will stay away from any futuristic or blingy shape, and focus on the classics.

Metal frames will bring a rougher military scent, where acetates will bring more sophistication. We will take our turn on the world of mirrored, polarized or colored lenses... which we will leave to the EDM festival-goers.

Headgear is another complex subject, which above all requires assurance and self-confidence. Without being an expert on this rather "advanced" subject, I see three major workwear-compatible possibilities :

• the fedoras a little rinsed,

• caps and trucker hats,

• and bucket hats or bucket hats (especially in denim) brought back into fashion by streetwear and Japan in recent times.

Sometimes useful and often stylish, airy scarves and rolled bandanas will, if necessary, protect your neck from the sun or the cool of the evening, while enhancing your build.

Heatwave tips & tricks : a damp bandana wrapped around your neck is a joy in the heat of the day.

Finally, accumulating bracelets that are not too imposing and/or nice rings, or even necklaces, can be a good idea to spice up an outfit that is too minimalist. Pearl, silver, turquoise, fabric, coins, treat yourself. You can take a look at Harpo, Gudule and Tant d’Avenir for example.

The final word

Sporting a workwear style in summer is therefore not that complicated by choosing a few pieces, their materials and their colors.

Seeking them can even be an opportunity to pivot towards new influences, broaden your horizons and enrich your stylistic vocabulary. In my opinion, this is what everyone should always try to do to refine their personal swag...

There's more to life than just denim. Try, try, discover and stay (cool).