A few weeks ago, Rafik, Benoît, Nicoló and Alexandre inaugurated the “ Revue des Marques ”.
To get you back into the swing of things, I'll remind you of the concept: clearing the jungle of brands, submitting ideas to you, sharing our stylistic trips with you and always giving you more advice .
Disclaimer: Lucas - with an S, you will have noticed - is the latest recruit to the editorial department. For his first article, he wanted to talk to you about shopping and therefore wanted to take care of the Revue des Marques. The floor is his!
This time, Euxane, Long and Robin are joining me to achieve this.
As you can see, other members of the team will take over next time so that you have as wide a range of inspiration as possible.
We left for this second round…
Summary of the Brand Review
- Euxane and her penchant for workwear jackets
- Long: Japanese influences
- Robin: the art of contrast
- Lucas: the dolce vita
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Team purchases
- Euxane: “back in the 90’s” sneakers
- Long: perseverance rewarded
- Robin's braided belt
- Lucas and National Standard reliability
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The grain of madness
- The ultimate coverage according to Euxane
- Long and his vintage two-material jacket
- Robin: good in his sneakers
- Lucas: tough as nails
On the radar of...
“ Love at first sight ” is not just a Kylie Minogue song...
It is also this feeling that invades us when, at the bend of a rack, we come across THE piece. The one that will obsess us for days. The one we will think about in the evening before going to sleep.
In this section, we tell you about these pieces that we fell in love with without having bought them .
Euxane and her penchant for workwear jackets
I don't really know where it comes from but I have a real attraction to pieces that are inspired by workwear, especially jackets and overshirts.
What I like about this type of piece is first and foremost the cut: it is often straight, square and sober; there is nothing superfluous. The size has roominess, these are clothes that are worn oversized rather than fitted .
On this A Kind Of Guise jacket, the lines are straight and the design refined. The denim has a slight patina in stressed areas, such as the button placket. I find her very cool.
The large pockets - for storing tools at the time - are also very characteristic of the workwear style. This is a detail that I really like because, in addition to the functional side, it brings graphics to the room .
Another important point: the materials. We find a lot of denim, the emblematic fabric of this style... but not only that! There are also lots of corduroy jackets and these are by far my favorite.
They have a more original side than denim jackets (very common) and are ultimately very easy to wear.
We still find the large square pockets, straight lines and a loose cut.
For example, I would very well see this SEH Kelly overshirt worn with raw jeans and a flannel shirt, all with a pair of work boots to really push the workwear style.
But I also imagine it very well in a more elegant register: white jeans, chambray shirt and brown derby with floral tips.
A final word to praise the merits of overshirts: they can be worn all year round. In winter, layering, under a big parka or a large coat; mid-season and for cool summer evenings, wear it alone over a shirt or t-shirt.
In short, in my opinion, these are the kind of pieces in which we don't invest for nothing .
Long: vest and Japanese influences
I chose two pieces from the “Studio d’Artisan” brand, which is a Japanese label that we talk very little about at BonneGueule.
It is a brand specializing in denim and which works with a single canvas supplier. This fidelity allows him to know the different reactions better than anyone: fading, shrinkage and possible enlargement.
She has the particularity of selling her jeans "unsanforized" , that is to say completely raw.
The canvas has not been soaked or washed, which causes marked shrinkage during the first wash (between one and two sizes). This must therefore be taken into account when purchasing.
Recently, the brand has diversified its offering, notably offering jackets and shirts.
I've wanted a work jacket for a long time, but never found the one that suited me. They were either entirely wool or cotton with a weave and texture that was too smooth.
The “Artisan Studio” work jacket that Long is eyeing.
On this jacket, we notice that the weave is very dense and that the stitch is very original. You might think it's a canvas with a very particular micro pattern.
The whole thing is simple and sober. Unfortunately, the buttons are plastic. Too bad for this kind of parts...
I also spotted a vest which was originally the one worn by railway workers in the 1930s. It was reworked to give it a more contemporary cut by making the pockets smaller and adjusting the cut.
Do you approve of Long’s military railroad vest ?
Personally, I find vertical stripes very easy to wear. Layered on a vest, this pattern can really add depth to an outfit .
I could wear this jacket and vest by pairing them with my Levi's Bedford chinos, my RRL henley and my Sanders chukka boots.
Robin, good in his sneakers
I'm very interested in Mark McNairy. It's certainly one of the only brands that manages to make me drool in terms of shoes (having worked in the shoe industry, I've become difficult to impress).
First, a little history: Mark McNairy founded his brand in 2008, after having rejuvenated J. Press (preppy brand par excellence founded in 1902 on the Yale campus) and Woolrich Woolen Mills .
His career reflects what I love about him, and which I find nowhere else: the gift of elegantly combining (often garish) colors and incongruous patterns on formal shoes...
Everything remains easy to wear!
So here's the pair of shoes that's on my radar: MarkMcNairy loafers with canary yellow soles.
Robin's love at first sight.
I've wanted a pair of shoes with contrasting soles and a pair of tasseled loafers for several years.
There, I can kill two birds with one stone... What more could you ask for?
Lucas: long live the dolce vita
Red with anger, blue with astonishment or green with shame... all reactions are to be feared when discussing the sensitive subject of white jeans! Nevertheless, it is towards this conflicting piece that my gaze turns as spring approaches.
I am aware that our transalpine friends are often criticized for the eccentricity of their style but it is - in my opinion - very urgent to appropriate this essential piece of their wardrobe.
You don't need to have a yacht to sport these pants!
I am convinced that white jeans would benefit from being considered at their true value: that of an elegant, refined and relatively easy to wear item . In 2014, Luca explained to us how to wear this piece as iconic as it is controversial .
Recently, I spotted two gems that you won't be able to part with between April and September.
The first comes to us from Naked & Famous , a brand that needs no introduction. This is a WeirdGuy white selvedge (semi-slim).
We are looking at vintage jeans woven in the right hand direction (“Right Hand Twill”), designed by Brandon Svarc for the spring-summer 2017 collection.
Its tapered cut is very well crafted and the cotton (98%) and elastane (2%) combination offers optimal comfort. Made from 11oz denim canvas, it is very light but completely reliable and solid .
The edging offers a nice visual added value.
The details and finishes demonstrate the quality of the work: the fifth pocket has the famous red edging and the white stitching is very discreet. The bottom of the jeans is quite fitted with an opening ranging from 17 to 20 cm depending on the size chosen.
You will have to pay €150 to purchase this little gem.
You can find it on Tate + Tokyo which distributes the brand.
More classic in the choice of cut and materials, but just as demanding on the quality of the product , you can opt for the equivalent offered by De Fursac. White jeans in Italian denim made on the other side of the Alps.
De Fursac know-how at the service of elegance.
The composition is identical to the previous piece with 98% cotton and 2% elastane. The stitching is once again tone-on-tone but the cut is straighter.
To obtain this piece, it will cost €185, in store or on the brand's e-shop .
Warning: if you plan to ditch the jacket, be careful not to get an outfit that is too monochrome.
Team purchases
Here, we talk to you more specifically about the parts we recently acquired and the process that led us to get the credit card.
What is the intellectual process before purchasing? What are the criteria that convinced us? How do we wear them? So many questions which we answer below.
Euxane: “back to the 90’s” sneakers
I really like the Fila brand for its retro side. Yes, we all have the right to our share of hype!
Six months ago, my boyfriend bought the reissue of the FX100 low (the green model) and I find them really beautiful. Remaining predominantly white low-top sneakers, they go with everything: no fuss is necessary on that front.
He wears them very often and, for the moment, no complaints about wear and tear: they hold up. The price remains very affordable for sneakers so it's a good pair for small budgets.
Anyway, I bought them in red.
Long: perseverance rewarded
I have wanted to try the “ Bleu de Paname ” brand for a long time now. Every time I tried on one of their clothes, the cut didn't fit me at all even though I loved the piece.
One day, I put on this lightly quilted chambray cardigan and I immediately fell in love with it. I had to watch it two or three times before saying to myself “Okay, I'll try it even though I know the cut won't suit me”.
I take the plunge, try on the piece and then... realize that it is perfectly in my size!
I'm actually wearing it as I write, paired with my Nike Henley.
Moral of the story: Even if the fit of most of a brand's clothing doesn't fit you, keep trying because sizing depends on a lot of factors .
Robin's braided belt
Nothing revolutionary on this front, I haven't had any big shopping desires lately.
However, I decided to solve a stupid problem that has been recurring for several years: every time I buy a belt, it ends up having a thousand and one holes because I constantly lose and gain weight.
Last December, I decided that it couldn't go on any longer: I had bought a beautiful belt from Jacques & Déméter and I under no circumstances wanted it to suffer the same fate as all the others.
So I bought a piece I didn't like, just so I wouldn't destroy my new belt. There she is :
For the Billy Belt braided belt chosen by Robin, it will cost €35 on the brand's e-shop .
I didn't want to invest a large sum because I didn't think I would like braided belts... but I must admit that it is very practical to be able to adjust it without any hassle .
In short, my leather belt is preserved and reserved for special occasions, while the braided one accompanies me every day!
Lucas and National Standard reliability
I no longer present National Standard , the independent French brand with one of the best quality/price ratios on the sneaker market.
Apparently similar to the creations from Common Projects (whose soles are made in the same Italian factory), the "NS" represent a beautiful gateway to the world of high-end sneakers.
Versatile, they allow you to try several styles without taking unnecessary risks.
It’s not for nothing that BonneGueule produced two collabs with National Standard.
Recently, I fell for this delicious “low” Edition 4 model. In terms of manufacturing and finishing, the quality is there. The artisanal manufacturing of these sneakers takes place in Portugal.
All in sobriety.
Eyelets have been added compared to the latest versions to prevent the friction of the laces from damaging the leather. In this regard, the latter are waxed (appreciable detail for an interesting result).
The entire lining is white leather. The outsole is made of Kobe rubber.
Summary of operations: €215 for an investment that we do not regret.
The grain of madness
We all learn it sooner or later, sometimes to our cost: “The heart has its reasons that reason ignores.”
This adage applies perfectly to many areas, and clothing is no exception.
Also, we will treat ourselves a little pleasure in this third and final section by sharing with you an extraordinary, extravagant, original, unusual, astonishing, special, singular piece... in short, you understand me!
The ultimate coverage according to Euxane
While I was looking for a nice blanket as a bedspread, I came across those from the Pendleton brand. I really like his story...
All of their wool blankets are handmade and are very sturdy. They immediately bring warmth to a room.
It begins in the town of Oregon where Thomas L. Kay, an English immigrant to the United States, buys a wool factory that manufactures blankets for Native American peoples.
For over 150 years, this family business has remained true to its roots.
We find on their creations the famous Navajo motifs, which are originally a Native American people from the southwest of the United States.
In short, more than just a piece of decorative fabric that will keep you warm, it is a real object steeped in history . That's what I like here.
Long and his vintage two-material jacket
Nigel Cabourn's pieces have always made me dream. Every month, I look at what's new on their e-shop and I came across this jacket .
A little beauty, for a mere €675.
It is a mix between a classic denim jacket and a wool military jacket used by the English army. I find that the combination of the two materials works well.
I can see myself wearing this piece with my raw jeans and my Clarks .
Robin: (very) high-end Japanese
I've noticed for a while that Nicoló often walks around in high-top sneakers from National Standard. They are off-white/beige, with darker inserts (which I like less).
At first I envied it, especially since they are no longer produced
But when I thought about it, I comforted myself by saying: “Anyway, they would be even better if they were completely beige!”
That's when I came across the collection of Hender Scheme , a Japanese high-end sneaker brand .
You understand why Robin fell in love...
Much more than a pair in “full beige”, Hender Scheme plays on textures here with three different types of leather (it's a bit like the triforce of the farm: goat/pig/cow) which all have a different shade. The must ? These are the natural colors of each of these leathers! No dye, nothing.
In short, they are well worth the rent.
Lucas the tough guy
When Hedi Slimane was appointed artistic director of the Yves Saint Laurent house in March 2012, he announced his desire to take it into a new dimension.
Since then, we have found the "Motorcycle Jacket", inseparable from the rock turn initiated by the designer. More precisely, it is a perfecto .
We notice it with its asymmetrical closure, its fairly loose collar and its very fitted waistband typical of the Hedi "Slim man" period. This piece, with its design and very fitted cut at the waist, fits easily into a greater number of outfits.
This is the reason why it has now reached the rank of basic at Saint Lau !
Be careful, this is not a part that will effectively protect you in the event of a fall on a motorcycle...
This is a luxury version of a great symbol of rebellion . Even if it refers to an imagination full of tattooed bikers, certain details temper this vision and make it easier to wear this marvel.
This is the case of the fit of the waist, the ribbed edges or even the triple zip, original and visually interesting.
€3,000 on the Saint-Laurent e-shop .
Made in Italy, it is a 100% pure lambskin perfecto, featuring slanted pockets, ribbed wool belt and cuffs, all embellished with a silk lining.
I would probably wear it (in my dreams) over a white t-shirt with dark slim jeans and a pair of white sneakers.
The final word...
And you, what have you been crushing on lately? What are the pieces that make you drool? Your own touch of madness? Tell us all about it in the comments.
See you soon for the third part!
