#1 Brand Review: Techwear, Designer, Jewelry, and Basics (and More)

Today, I have the pleasure of presenting to you a new format: the Brand Review.

The idea is simple: we want to clear the jungle of brands for you . Offer you little confidential nuggets, share our stylistic trips with you and always give you more advice.

For December, Alex, Benoît and Nicoló joined me. And next month, other members of the team will be working on it, so that you have different inspirations.

We're off to the first part!

Summary of the Brand Review

• On the radar of...

• Rafik: from the accessible creator
• Benoît: “did you say techwear?”
• Nicoló and the obsession with beautiful materials
• Alexander and his jewels
• Team purchases
  • Rafik's black jeans
  • Benoît: an “alternative” to Acronym
  • Nicoló: twisted basics
  • Alexandre and accessible tailor-made shirts

• The grain of madness
  • Rafik and his romantic jacket
  • Benoît: the jeans of the future
  • Nicoló, elegant at home
  • Alexandre, all in relaxation

On the radar of...

In this section, we tell you about the pieces that we have spotted . Without having bought them, they caught our attention and gave us a nasty look

In some cases, it's even a real crush. We tell you why.

Rafik: from the accessible creator

Henrik Vibskov is a Danish designer. Having been practicing for around ten years, I really appreciate his designs: we find this very Scandinavian rigor, without falling into the minimalist trend which has invaded the North.

A brand that parades, which is also a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine , it is surprising to see how its prices remain fair. You won't find a sweatshirt for €1,300 there, but beautiful materials, well-executed cuts and, above all, real style .

For now, I fell for a coat (admittedly black, but you know me!).

As far as I'm concerned, I would wear it with much more fitted pants to balance the volume (and I'm not a fan of such short pants). I find its cut sublime, the thought goes into the shape of the sleeves. I'd love to wear it over a crisp white turtleneck, complete with black pants and my trusty Doc Martens.

As a bonus, I would love these little socks , still from Henrik Vibskov. I really like the little pattern that I would show off by making a reverse. Let’s think spontaneity !

WANT Les Essentiels is a brand specializing in leather (originally in leather goods, it has diversified into gloves and shoes). Sober, their bags find their inspiration in vintage creations and architecture.

There are two categories of people: those who put their computer in a sleeve, and those who slip it between two magazines hoping that it will be enough (guess which side I'm on...). So, I spotted this model.

Benoît: “did you say techwear?”

We're going to talk about Ben Klark today. Nantes streetwear brand, very confidential, I already have a hoodie from them that I really like: thick, warm, durable and perfectly cut.

Their flagship piece (€895) is a very comfortable neoprene jacket, with leather ribbed edges , just that! I like these lines, both sober and highlighted by the leather.

A beautiful piece, which had unexpected publicity for such a small and poorly distributed brand: Ryan Lewis (the producer behind the cult song Can't hold us, with Macklemore ), DJ Snake, Aazar, and basketball player Rudy Gobert were shot in this famous bomber jacket.

For my second favorite, hold on tight because the story is a bit long.

It all started in the Czech Republic. A technical clothing manufacturer has just launched its mountain clothing brand, called Tilak , before crossing paths with Errolson Hugh, the founder of Acronym .

The links between Acronym and Tilak are not entirely clear. However, it is almost certain that Tilak made (or still makes) for Acronym, and that Errolson handled the design of some Tilak pieces.

In any case, Tilak is starting to make a name for itself among... the Japanese, who are very sensitive to the outerwear expertise of this Czech brand with a bit of Acronym DNA in it. This is why we find Tilak jackets in very sophisticated Japanese boutiques.

As a result, Tilak decided to create a line specifically for Japan, the Poutnik range. It's simply stunning, with stunning Ventile waterproof cotton jackets.

And this Poutnik line is doing quite well, so much so that Boa Design - a Czech design agency - decided to create a capsule collection (which doesn't seem to be distributed). We therefore find ourselves with an unexpected collaboration between Tilak via his Poutnik line, Errolson and Boa Design. The result is great and really inspiring .

And if you're wondering: no, Tilak, Poutnik, or Acronym are not distributed in France, and I have no idea how to get them unless I spend time on Google.

Nicoló and the obsession with beautiful materials

I discovered HAIKURE a while ago at Elevation but it's only since purchasing one of their pants last summer that I truly appreciate the brand.

Their big strong point: casual chic pants that stand out a little from the crowd, both in terms of their appearance and their comfort. There is research in the choice of materials, often innovative or original. The cuts are flattering and, above all, the use of stretch is quite common among them, it is always a real joy to wear.

The Italian tailoring and the little extra details, like the wooden buttons or the white leather patch on the back, are the icing on the cake.

Even if I haven't yet had the opportunity to see one of their pieces in real life, I have been following the MEWS label for several seasons (discovered on L'Exception). It offers beautiful, timeless pieces with always very well chosen materials and, sometimes, a little design twist.

Here, we have a very classic gray bomber jacket , but with a “zig zag” woven cotton that I have never seen anywhere else.

And the good news is, it's not excessively expensive. I am now monitoring this brand closely...

Alexander and his jewels

I like simple looks: chinos, t-shirt/shirt, and adding accessories to add a little spice and “elevate” the outfit. For me, they are the ones who can make all the difference . There are two brands in particular that I really like: Thomas V. and Catherine Michiels.

I had the chance to meet the founders of these two brands and I fell in love with their creations. With Thomas, I was able to design a signet ring (in addition to his collection, he can do “made to measure”). He is patient and very attentive and, above all, blessed with incredible empathy: he immediately identified what I wanted... He is a former Compagnon du Devoir (who worked at Cartier before): he therefore masters jewelry perfectly.

Another accessory that I never take off: my Catherine Michiels bracelet. The selection of beads is impressive... I opted for an elastic model (they managed to create one that never breaks and you can't see the knot) in turquoise beads. So now I'd like to get another one to keep him company.

Today, many brands offer beaded bracelets, but few offer models with as much "accuracy" and taste in the selection of stones. The quality of the materials is also top notch; It's been six months since I took off my bracelet and it's just like the first day: magnificent.

Team purchases

Here, we tell you about the pieces we acquired recently.

How did we think about the purchase? What criteria did we look at? How do we wear the pieces in question? We will see.

Rafik's black jeans

With Christmas fast approaching, I had to limit my shopping budget. “Pleasure of giving”, they say...

In short, let's not get lost! My favorite jeans all come from April 77 , I'm a fan of their slim cuts which lend themselves well to my rock inspirations.

The quality is satisfactory, I wear them intensely without them moving. And a little tip by the way, their sales are super interesting.

I know, the leg is very fitted. As far as I'm concerned, it's an assumed bias that is part of the DNA of my style.

Besides, I grant you: with grunge influences and all-black looks 95% of the time, it works. It becomes more difficult as soon as you change your style.

Benoît: an “alternative” to Acronym

Like every December, I'm excited about the year, knowing that it's been a few months since I last bought clothes. For those wondering how I manage this financially, I talk at length about my favorite piece in the budget podcast .

I had fun with the latest Nike ACG ( All Conditions Gear ) collection, whose designer is none other than Errolson Hughs, the founder of Acronym. The advantage of Nike ACG: wearing clothing in the spirit of Acronym, but half the price.

For those who don't know ACG, it's an urban techwear line. Not necessarily to play sports, but to be prepared for all conditions in an urban environment (rain, cold, etc.). Hence these designs which incorporate waterproof, warm or water-repellent materials.

Unfortunately, the distribution of this line is very selective and is done only in Nike Labs (less than ten in the world, including one in Paris), without there ever being any restockings.

So I took:

• the khaki-colored Alpine Jacket in Gore Tex: an impressive piece due to its construction, the pockets are very, very well thought out, and the hood adjustment system is well seen.

• the Metamorphosis bomber jacket in Windstopper (a water-repellent but not waterproof, durable and windproof Gore-Tex fabric) to clip into the Alpine Jacket... or any other Acronym jacket! In fact, both brands use the same zip at the neck to join the two pieces. It's a very practical mid layer, with fairly basic wadding (Thermosoft from Thermore) but which does the job correctly. What interested me here was to test the two pieces together to see if we were really protected from bad weather all year round.

• the cargo pants, which are very reminiscent of the lines of Maharishi... The stretch cotton and the zipped hems make them very comfortable, but I would have appreciated a little more length.

• the scarf: finally a techwear scarf!

And otherwise, I wanted to have more robust running shoes than my Nike Flyknit. I therefore opted for the National Standard model 7 (€238).

Nicoló: twisted basics

I already said it in the article presenting our jodhpurs : I love ankle boots, without really liking Chelsea boots.

Therefore, I am always on the lookout for a model that is a little different from the classics. I am completely satisfied with these Paire & Fils , whose braided back brings a little freshness and novelty without being overwhelming.

Helped by their sober and versatile color, I wear them as much with my raw jeans as with our flannel pants or chinos... Nothing very complicated in fact.

Remember: just because a piece has character, doesn't automatically mean it's difficult to wear . That’s the whole point of “basics with a twist”!

Alexandre and accessible tailor-made shirts

In my wardrobe, pants almost never change. Let's say that I alternate with several colors of chinos (with elastane of course!). However, on the top pieces, I am always attracted by new t-shirts or shirts.

It's a bit like my guilty pleasure, I never get tired of it. Depending on the period, I either buy tees or shirts.

At the moment, I'm very "focused" on shirts. Recently, I discovered a brand of half-measure shirts: Cotton Society . Clearly I go there for most of my shirts now.

I love its selection of materials , casual (superb Japanese oxfords and chambray!) and formal (I can't get enough of stripes!). The possibilities for the collar and cuffs are numerous, the same goes for the buttons (mother-of-pearl, wood, coconut...). Last (big) advantage: its price range starting from €59.

Personally, I prefer to go to the store in Paris (to touch the materials) but they also have a website. In this case, it will be up to you to provide your measurements.

The grain of madness

Because clothes are above all a pleasure, we are all entitled to a crush...

It can be a piece with a crazy design, as well as with special properties or a particular use. It all depends on the team member 😉

Rafik and his romantic jacket

With Alex, we often send each other links to pieces that we can't afford but that we drool over. But I kept this one especially for you.

A 100% silk jacket, worked in organza, with embroidered roses . Considering the stylistic research and the work required, the price is not that out of the ordinary.

Spontaneously, I would wear it with a white shirt. The shape of the jacket would offset the formal side of the shirt; the elegance of the shirt would be highlighted by the poetry of the roses.

Benoît: the jeans of the future

In techwear, jeans have long been excluded, precisely because they are anything but techwear. Denim hasn't evolved much in a century, no particular technicality.

Except that there is a niche techwear brand that has reinterpreted it with Schoeller fabric ! It's about Finally Risen , and I'm very badly tempted...

Nicoló, elegant at home

The question of “indoor clothing” has come up frequently lately in your comments, particularly following the podcast “What to wear on a weekend with friends?” »

Well, for me, if I didn't have a budget limit, this is what I would wear: a Turnbull & Asser dressing gown , entirely in silk, made in England by a renowned house. Plus, blue and purple, with a big paisley pattern... Just that!

On the one hand, it would ease an old frustration for me because, even though it's difficult to wear, purple has always been my favorite color... At least theoretically. By looking at it on a color chart, or on the case of my phone, but no further than that. So this would be the perfect opportunity to make peace with my love for this somewhat unattractive color.

And on the other hand, the paisley textured by the jacquard weave will fill my funky spirit, secretly lacking in exuberance. Note that this is not a print and that the pattern is made entirely through weaving ... Quite impressive from a technical point of view!

Alexandre, all in relaxation

I've always loved screen printed t-shirts. I remember the first one I was given: a Carhartt model in college. A simple black tee with the white screen printed logo. Since then, my collection has continued to grow.

I've always admired what skateboard brands like Diamond & Supply were able to do, with huge collections of screen-printed tees. Their jersey quality is impeccable (it doesn't twist, it doesn't shrink) and they double their creativity every time.

Otherwise, I love what the French brand “Club Pétanque” is doing.

I really like the universe that they managed to create around a very famous sport! The collections appeal to both men and women, the qualities of jersey and fleece are excellent (everything is made in Portugal).

I have two t-shirts that don't move after several washes.

Here is a nice little brand, which allows you to add a touch of humor to your outfit with a simple tee.

The final word...

We wanted to test a new approach with this format, which we had a lot of fun writing. We hope you like it, don't hesitate to tell us what you thought of it in the comments!