Today, we're going to do something I rarely, if ever, do: talk about the price of our clothes .
Within the team, there has long been a debate about the BonneGueule line, especially between Geoffrey and me.
I insisted a lot on releasing a more high-end line, the Japan Line , in particular with jeans positioned much higher than our usual model.
My reasoning: you would be sensitive to the quality of the material, the natural indigo, the finishes... which are usually found on jeans starting at €250.
In short, I wanted to stay on good value for money, but in a higher budget range than usual... to offer jeans that didn't have many equivalents on the French market.
These jeans were one of our biggest successes, just like the Japan Line as a whole.
I was not surprised to see you sensitive to this line highlighting Japanese materials, despite a higher price than usual.
This reassured me in the idea that by sufficiently explaining the quality of a product with real added value, we were not doomed to have a “niche product” that sold slowly.
The desire to create more accessible clothing...
Another view
But Geoffrey had another point of view, both opposing and complementary .
Offer jeans under €100 so that as many people as possible can access quality jeans.
Helping as many men as possible to feel good in their clothes, in short.
This is how our famous gray jeans were born. So of course, no Japanese canvas here, but for those looking for an affordable model, a pretty gray to highlight the rest of the more colorful pieces, and with stretch to make it very comfortable, it's a great alternative.
He had a good intuition: gray jeans are one of the top 3 pieces that sell the best at our house.
Meet different needs
Seeing that these two jeans worked equally well left me perplexed. It is rare for a brand to have such different prices on the same type of clothing, even though the volumes are identical.
What should I deduce from this? Create more, more affordable clothing? Or more exceptional pieces?
In fact, we met different needs with jeans for less than €100 and another for €177. And that’s why both worked very well.
However, we have not repeated the experience of releasing an affordable garment in this price category.
On the other hand, we have gotten into the habit of using materials specific to luxury and sometimes unique know-how, like with our coats or our shirts, which are regularly sold out (which we try as much as possible to avoid now). ).
There, we have found our clientele and I am really delighted to have the opportunity to work with very beautiful materials.
But as Geoffrey rightly pointed out, it was time to dig into the slightly lower price range, that of gray jeans.
So we worked on a line that we called “Essentials”.
Three distinct lines for a clarified offer
With each new launch of the main line, there is always this tension in our choices:
- given the success of the Japan Line, can we use very nice materials, even if it means having shirts that cost more than 120 euros?
- given the success of gray jeans and the demand behind them, should we turn to more affordable materials?
Now, everything is clear with three very distinct lines:
- the Essentiels line : these are more affordable clothes, with more accessible materials (you understand that we cannot use Japanese materials), without too expensive details, but with our usual quality. While aiming for economies of scale.
- the BonneGueule line : the one you know well, with our everyday clothes having that little extra something. The little “twist” that makes the difference! This is where you will find our wool coats , our semi-canvassed blazers , or our clothing in technical materials such as the Schoeller pants and the Sympatex softshell .
- and the Japan Line : a line made up of rare Japanese materials such as the Kurabo denim , the Maruwa chambray shirt , or the Kuwamura fabric ...
Casually, creating a line solely made up of accessible clothing allows you to give them more weight. No more sluggish outings. Now for a well-structured line that meets your expectations .
We are very successful in satisfying those who like high-end materials, it is time to do the same for those who have lower budgets.
So, does making clothes more accessible mean choosing the first fabric that comes along or the first price? No, it’s quite the opposite!
The accessibility challenge
Believe me, making clothes more affordable while maintaining a certain appeal was more difficult than building the BonneGueule line. The room for maneuver is much reduced, and I had to face complicated debates with Alexandre.
How far can we lower the price? How to find the right balance between pretty material and assembly cost? What finishes do we absolutely want to have for the price?
For now, I'm very happy that we were able to capitalize on our experience in high-end clothing, particularly in terms of materials.
When you spend your days touching materials that ordinary people cannot afford, it becomes easy to spot THE material that is worth it. THE gem in lower price ranges.
The origin of this more affordable line
The first signal we received came from our respective friends.
They earn a very honorable living, support us in our adventure, but how many times have I heard "I can't psychologically spend more than €100 on a shirt" .
No matter how much I argued about the materials, the finishes, the material of the buttons, nothing worked. They needed a “ more accessible first step .”
On a personal note, I haven't forgotten what it's like to dress on a tight budget . It's difficult to tell me that many small budgets are following us, without us having pieces that they could afford, even though they want to renew their wardrobes.
But above all, there is obviously you.
We received a lot of feedback saying the same thing:
I love what you do. I would love to buy your clothes and support you, but there is nothing that would fit my budget.
The real request comes from you. Whether via surveys - as you can see in this graph -, in the comments or during our meetings during the showrooms, many of you expressed the wish for a more accessible line.
That's a lot of signals and, month after month, the thinking has matured in our heads. I thought that the offer for men under €100 was rather mature, so I didn't see any point in getting involved.
But it was too late. The idea had germinated in our heads and I began to see some “holes in the racket” in our brand landscape:
- an origin of materials that is often unclear, with most brands not specifying where the Oxford in their shirts comes from, for example,
- little bias in their designs. Still in shirts, few risk going out with more marked collars,
- an explanation of the product rarely provided.
Yes, there was clearly something to be done!
But first, we obviously asked ourselves a whole bunch of questions...
Questions answers
Is the Essentials line likely to eventually replace the main line?
Absolutely not !
It will not take on more importance than the normal line, with which you can "have fun" using more unique and exclusive materials.
It is rather a complement to our main line, and our credo remains the same!
| Supporting fine know-how, | |
| Giving power back to consumers, | |
| Fight against defeatist thoughts. |
What will you bring compared to entry-level brands?
In terms of the product, we're starting to have good experience: it's been 3 years since we launched the BonneGueule line, 5 years since we did our first collaboration with a brand, and almost 10 years since I wrote about the subject. Not to mention the thousands of returns that we have been able to collect over all these years.
In short, we have a very precious heritage to design beautiful clothes .
This will translate into the choice of materials, finishes, cut, stylistic possibilities and the explanation of the pieces.
Finally, there is also our vision of the very particular “customer experience” (we can sometimes speak of an obsession).
How can Essentials clothing be cheaper if they are of the same quality?
It's a combination of factors.
Volumes twice as high as our other orders (creating economies of scale) + intensive research for more accessible materials = lower price than usual.
Note that just one of these factors is not enough to offer a more accessible price. It is truly a set of efforts and risk-taking that allows the Essentials to exist.
Let's now move on to the concrete presentation of the 4 pieces:
- two Emanuel Lang oxford dress shirts,
- a cotton pique shirt,
- and semi-slim blue stretch jeans
Both Emanuel Lang Oxford dress shirts
It's about time we expanded our range of dress shirts.
We are very happy to offer you an Oxford made in France from Emanuel Lang!
No poplin here because as you know, I like textures , even on dressier shirts.
In white, the Oxford reveals all its potential.
On the other model, pretty light blue stripes which add variety.
On the importance of the pass
The element that required the most work was the collar.
Basically, my idea was simple: I imagined this shirt under a blazer, so I needed a larger collar than usual so that it would fit perfectly under the lapels of the jacket
With our Albini cotton dobby shirt which already had a fairly small collar, I wanted to work on another shape here.
But he also had to maintain presence, especially when worn without a tie.
I didn't think we would need 4 prototypes to get the perfect collar!
In fact, when you lay it flat, it is very important that it is not straight: otherwise, the points of the collar will not sit well on the shirt.
Beautiful finishes
In terms of finishes, if we were not able to put mother-of-pearl buttons on this shirt (we console ourselves by saying that this does not affect the lifespan of the shirt, and that they will be more resistant), we was very happy to see that the workshop had mastered English sewing !
This is a rather rare finish among French brands in this price range.
We have chosen not to offer you mother-of-pearl buttons to reduce the price of the shirt.
Pretty gathers add character to the cuffs.
Without forgetting the essential reinforcement swallows. Note in passing the texture of the white oxford!
They are made in Morocco, in a workshop of more than 40 years which works a lot for high-end products. It is indeed less expensive than in Portugal, but its know-how and its sense of finishing mean that the difference in cost for us is really not enormous.
How to wear Essentiels Oxford shirts?
In terms of cut, it's really a shirt to wear tucked into pants . So there is no risk of the shirt coming off as soon as you sit down.
That said, from 1m80 and for me, the result remains suitable with a shirt worn outside.
Being a formal shirt, Luca wears it with a suit. Unsurprisingly, it naturally finds its place there! Thanks to the light gray and the white base of the shirt, the whole thing is very bright. This is all the more appreciable in the gray winter weather. (BonneGueule flannel blazer and pants, Meermin shoes)
The shirt's designs are discreet, so the pocket can also be fitted with them (as long as they don't have the same shape). Also note its little blue edging, reminiscent of the tie and the stripes of the shirt. (Gutteridge tie, SuitSupply pocket square)
Small variation on a double-breasted suit. Personally, I opt for a pine green tie: it's a color that lends itself well to formal accessories, contrasting well with the sometimes strict side of a gray suit. From a distance, the shirt appears light blue. Only by getting closer will we be able to distinguish the stripes, the pattern had to remain subtle. (Corneliani suit, Husbands tie, Retail Line shoes)
Another option: wear a white shirt with a double-breasted blazer and chinos. Less formal thanks to the mismatched side, the outfit does not lose any elegance. Faithful to his transalpine origins, Luca turns to wide lapels - practical for the finest busts, thus visually enlarged - and a tie ready to spring. (SuitSupply blazer, BonneGueule chinos , Meermin derbies, SuitSupply tie)
The mismatch also works with a classic blazer! A white shirt is ideal with a blazer with a rich texture: it will serve as a base on which it will reveal all the subtleties of its material. We also like the use of iced derbies, bringing a touch of sophistication. ( BonneGueule donegal blazer , BonneGueule flannel pants , Grenson derbies)
We return to the striped shirt, which Luca wears with our alpaca cardigan. This is the kind of association that you already know and master very well! As always with a casual chic look, the shoes allow you to push the cursor to one side or the other. For a dressier look, wear derbies or ankle boots and that's it. ( BonneGueule alpaca cardigan , Essentiels line Oxford shirt, SEIKO watch, Gudule rings)
In a sober outfit, burgundy sneakers stand out automatically. It's an easy and relevant twist to energize a look. (JUCH sneakers)
Other shoes, different atmosphere. Do you see the difference ? 😉 (BonneGueule Essentiels blue jeans - we'll talk about them below -, Uniqlo belt, Paire & Fils ankle boots)
The pique cotton shirt
I've been waiting for this piece for a while, even before the Essentials line!
A shirt full of contrasts
This is indeed a casual chic shirt, to be worn here also preferably tucked into the pants.
The goal was to make a piece to wear in a dressy way, in order to contrast with the casual side of the material.
I found it particularly interesting to use a material like cotton pique, decidedly casual, on a shirt with formal proportions.
A subject that requires know-how
The material is woven in Spain. And she then went to Tunisia. We don't necessarily know it, but specific expertise is required to work with quilted cotton , which is sometimes capricious under the needle.
Given the few workshops agreeing to work on this material, the few that do so in Portugal are very expensive (it would surely have been more expensive than the Japan Line).
But Alexandre found a workshop that enthusiastically welcomed our project. He is used to cotton pique.
The design took a really long time, because in the prototypes we received, some were damaged in the machine. Each time we had to start all over again and find new material.
So we started again, until we finally found the shirt that suited us.
How to wear a cotton pique shirt?
Casual chic model requires, you can wear your shirt with a suit. Its soft blue is easily suitable for a professional context and will slip under any blazer. The pique cotton and button-down collar subtly contrast with the formal side of the outfit, in the same vein as the derbies. With a buttoned collar, yes to the pocket square but no to the tie! ( BonneGueule navy jacket and pants, AppleWatch watch, Grenson derbies, Le Feuillet clutch)
Without a jacket it still works. The cut of the shirt, fitted just right, allows you to maintain an elegant look.
More workwear now, Luca completes his shirt with a flight jacket. Little tip: the presence of a woolen collar adds volume and gives it a build. Moreover, we find the sure value of the khaki / blue association, almost infallible. Here, the gray jeans play a binding role, letting the other pieces "express themselves" fully. Finally, the boots finish the look with a nod to military inspirations. (La Panoplie jacket, BonneGueule gray jeans , Meermin boots, Gudule ring)
Piqué cotton allows you to create interesting play on materials. It will reveal all its relief superimposed on jackets with a smoother appearance. (SEIKO Watch)
In a more adventurous spirit, Geoffrey puts on his shirt with a quilted vest. The well-washed jeans reinforce the raw inspirations, echoing the workboots, where the dressed wool of the sleeveless vest sets the whole apart. It's all about contrasts! (Cadot vest, BonneGueule Kurabo jeans , Dr. Martens boots)
For moments of relaxation, the blue shirt/jeans combo is enough. With this base, treat yourself to accessories! For this, Arnaud opts for some jewelry , as well as a cognac backpack which warms up the outfit. (Le Feuillet backpack, National Standard sneakers, BonneGueule Essentiels jeans)
Blue stretch jeans
Much more than a simple variation
It's the little brother of our gray stretch jeans. I'll tell you one thing: at first, I wasn't particularly excited. I even said to myself “Well it’s like stretch gray, but in blue”.
And yet... When Alex gave me the prototype to test, without realizing it, I became quite attached to these little stretch blue jeans . Obviously for its comfort, but not only...
A precise cut
The last few small improvements to the fit have pleasantly surprised me, and I now find it to be one of the best-cut jeans I own (I've gotten a lot of compliments on it, in fact).
A modern cut, flattering the silhouette without restricting it. (Paire & Fils ankle boots)
Small aesthetic detail: the interior seams have been taped.
Ultimately, these jeans are for those of you who simply want a pair of jeans that are comfortable thanks to the 1% elastane, with a true semi-slim fit , and easy to wear in a variety of outfits . Quite simply.
Note that like gray, it will relax a little. Just take it slightly tight at first.
Careful manufacturing
It is made in Portugal, in the same workshop as our gray jeans and our standard selvedge jeans .
And the fabric comes from Türkiye, a country where we find great know-how in denim.
Finally - and this is where I didn't expect it at all - I detect an interesting potential for fading in the canvas. Indeed, some corners of the back pockets have bleached slightly, and I think that in a few months, the fading will not be bad at all.
Giving free rein to his James Dean side, Luca combines his jeans with a white t-shirt, without forgetting the very badass boots that go with them. He finishes the ensemble with a beige wool hunting jacket, definitely adding some sparkle to the look. (Gant Rugger jacket, Muji t-shirt, Meermin boots, neighbors' cat optional)
Jeans, checked shirt, safari jacket... No doubt, it's a workwear look. Unsurprisingly, blue jeans fit perfectly here. Consider mustard-colored jackets, especially if they have a rich texture like here with coated cotton. Rarer, they are no less easy to wear but will bring originality to your looks. On the other hand, it is better to go light on accessories when wearing these shades. A blue canvas bag does the job perfectly (Bastong Saharan, BonneGueule shirt - Japan Line, Rains bag)
Note: we would like to take this opportunity to thank Arnaud for taking part in the photos, as well as the Renaissance Hotel for welcoming us during the shoot.
How to choose your size ?
We are on a completely normal sizing, just take your usual size.
The Essentials line is now available
Visit the BonneGueule e-shop to discover all the pieces in detail.
