In this article, I'm going to talk to you about Italian style , or "how to get out of your comfort zone without too much effort?" (rhyming comes naturally to me, and I also do birthdays), illustrated by the test of a De Fursac summer outfit (shirt, white pants, blazer).
You will see that the brand has worked hard to bring a “dolce vità” spirit to the rooms. But before going into detail in the test, let's do a quick summary of Italian style , one of the strong points of which is relaxed elegance in summer.
What is Italian style?
Italian style is becoming more and more popular. In France, we often do not dare to wear it, because it is sometimes considered too flashy, or not adapted to the body shape, or even to the attitude. Difficult to reproduce Pitti Uomo in Paris (note from Benoit: Pitti Uomo is the world's leading show for men's ready-to-wear, and takes place twice a year in Florence) .
Among our transalpine friends, style improves with age: it is not uncommon to see Italian industrialists with a very strong style (double-breasted jackets with big lapels, colorful pants, etc.)
Some examples :
Luca di Montezemolo, president of Ferrari/Fiat.
Gianni Agnelli, nicknamed the Avvocato, who led Fiat for 40 years.
The extravagant Lapo Elkann, heir to the Fiat group
( who likes to lie down on his Ferrari ).
A much rarer phenomenon in France. It's as if we were telling you that Bernard Arnault was recognized for his style (this is clearly not the mentality in France, and it would clearly be frowned upon).
Now that you've roughly seen what it's about, don't hesitate to take a look at Geoffrey's article which compares Italian, English, French and American styles to go further.
How to adopt Italian style?
Italians wear less structured clothes, which fall "naturally" at shoulder level. A certain flamboyance seems to emanate from their clothes.
You may be reading Milanese Special Selection , a blog we love, in which Italian extravagance is highlighted. It conveys very well the styles that you can come across in Italy.
Example in the following photo: these gentlemen's jackets fall naturally thanks to the very little padding (padding at the shoulder level), which gives them a nonchalant air that you surely also have in you. But yes, but yes.
These more fluid outfits also offer greater freedom of movement. It is therefore the man who makes the outfit, and not the outfit which makes the man ( thank you Renaud ).
White socks should of course be avoided here.
(we sent him an email).
You can take inspiration from what you see on Pitti Uomo.
Be careful not to overdo it! Bad taste can happen very quickly. If you are not confident, start with a strong piece and a few accessories, which you will dilute in a more sober outfit. Go for a crescendo .
White pants (or white jeans): good or bad idea?
White pants are a central piece in Italian style.
I know what you’re going to tell me: “ Benoît always told us to never wear white pants !” ". I will therefore provide a few small details on this subject, showing you that it is easy to have style in this garment that is too often shunned.
Mistakes not to make when wearing white pants
It's summer, it's hot, but respect the ladies' eyes.
This type of pants is often found on beaches (and we're hardly exaggerating!). Ban anything that doesn't look stylish and has too much volume (cargo pants, chinos that are too loose, linen pants). Unless you're a capoeira dancer, in which case you'll be forgiven.
Therein lies the nuance. White beach pants have a vulgar connotation, but you should know that they can, and should, be found in dressy looks, outside of beaches and jokari rackets.
Note from Benoît: this is the paradox of white pants. It finds its place where you least expect it: in an elegant outfit.
The important thing is to have structure with white pants . And white jeans are ideal for this.
Note from Benoît: Since this is a very showy piece, you are obliged to have a perfect fit. The slightest excess of unsightly volume is immediately noticed .
With the white pants, can I wear a white shirt?
Look at this look, the white pants have a good fit and the silhouette is balanced. There are a total of 3 colors, with very beautiful reminders.
The problem ? When you go for coffee at your Zia (aunty) Maria's, you will no longer need your jacket. You will therefore have a monochrome style that is difficult to manage (your Zia will hit you with a vengeance ).
This man doesn't take off his jacket, Pitti obliges
(he doesn't have a Zia Maria either).
If you don't like wearing blazers in summer, you can also pair the white pants with a sweatshirt (the Italians love it). You can go wild with color. Force the casual side with a nice pair of running shoes, for example.
Alessandro Squarzi, or the king of white pants. It’s a super interesting look that you’ll find on a lot of Italians.
You can see he's old, but his outfit remains completely consistent. We feel that he is very comfortable with what he is wearing. This is also Italy,
feel freer with clothing, and support your personality (thanks to accessories in particular).
You can draw inspiration from his style at will,
you will never make mistakes.
Italian style at De Fursac
During the first De Fursac test , we presented to you the shift that the brand has taken since 2010. The collections change and become more and more creative, fueled by increasingly sophisticated materials.
This year, De Fursac emphasizes Italian nonchalance of the 60s, recreating the setting of Villa Mallaparte in Capri for their lookbook.
My goal is to show you how a French brand appropriates Italian style, without going to extremes that could shock Grandma Lucienne.
No need to have “raven-colored” hair, as Claude would say .
General knowledge note (I'm sure you're interested):
Villa Malaparte.
Le Mépris , by director Jean-Luc Godard , does that mean anything to you? The film takes place in the Villa Malaparte ( note from Geoffrey: watch this great classic urgently if you don't know it !).
This famous villa was built on the side of a cliff on the Island of Capri, for a famous Italian writer (Curzio Malaparte).
Remote from everything, the villa is accessible on foot or by sea.
Opinions differ within the team. Personally, I can't find much charm in her, but Benoît loves it: " Ah no, Luca, look at these stairs, this solarium !" Geoffrey too: " You can't reject your country like that, out of hand, just because your first name is spelled strangely ." You also have the right to give us your opinion.
White pants test at De Fursac
De Fursac shirt, Asos belt, Bobbies derby, Persol glasses.
As I told you above, you need at least some dressy pieces for the pants to be elegant. Here, the denim is thick enough not to deform, and light enough to withstand high heat (it remains summer pants).
I hesitated a lot about choosing this piece. I asked myself a lot of questions about its integration into my wardrobe, but in the end, it was very natural and easy. It's certain, it has a very Italian connotation (we won't do that again), but I assure you that you will not be disappointed in terms of style, even in France!
Here, with a simple sweatshirt ( Jack and Jones Premium).
Persol Capri glasses.
I don't have any white hair yet (like Mr Squarzi),
but this look remains safe and easy.
With a blazer, a shirt and a pair of derbies (Bobbies).
The cuffs of the pants are not obligatory (personally, I find that they reinforce the summer side). Avoid colors that are too dark so as not to contrast the outfit too much. Stick to cool tones during the summer, always.
Note from Benoît: we have the perfect example of a strong outfit, but made up of very simple colors (white, beige, light blue, and gray). Also note the very careful cut at the thighs.
The slant pockets keep your pants snug on your hips. The back pockets, called "revolver", are more stylish than the patch pockets you have on most of your jeans. A very good point.
Asos braided belt.
The finishes of white De Fursac jeans
Everything is really very clean (this is a must in this price range).
The fork is consolidated by a reinforcement yoke.
Everything is bound (what you see in beige, to hide the seams),
which is a real guarantee of quality. Nothing sticks out.
The buttonhole is also very clean.
Small downside: the buttons are made of imitation horn plastic.
How to take care of your white jeans? (the famous question!)
This denim is soft, and therefore catches dust: you shouldn't be afraid to go to the dry cleaners. Don't wash it yourself, it won't like it.
Like a tuxedo, it's a restrictive piece that you won't be able to wear every day. But it will add a real plus to your outfit, something strong and unique.
My opinion on these white pants
Regarding the material, it is very pleasant from the first wear. No cardboard effect, unlike selvedge canvases. The pants stretch very quickly, remember to take them well adjusted when purchasing.
The small downside for me is at the crotch level: I find that there is a little excess material, but nothing too bad). This represents an advantage for men with good thighs.
The bottom of the pants remains very well fitted.
Derby Bobbies.
225 euros for white pants is still a bit expensive, but the finishes are impeccable, and the cut is really very beautiful. I present this piece to you because it is very difficult to find elegant white pants that are easy to integrate into your wardrobe. It is available here. That said, during private sales, you have up to 40% off many pieces (registration link at the end of the article).
Test of the De Fursac linen and silk jacket
We find this Italian touch of the 60s,
while remaining very sober.
We are almost certain not to make any style mistakes.
In summer, you cannot compose your look thanks to layering (= by stacking layers): so you have to play on the texture of the different pieces to give personality to the outfit. Without going so far as to wear big stripes... As you can see in Pitti, a light speckling will be enough to bring nuance to your outfit.
This blazer is very easy to pair, whether with a shirt or a plain t-shirt, for example. At first wear, the material is really surprising. The speckling is really very subtle, and allows the piece to catch the sunlight well (the blazer is available here ).
The jacket is well fitted, no excess material in the back. We are happy with the cuts at De Fursac.
Same for the shoulder, no excess material. The little padding allows you to keep your shoulder very natural.
Little bonus: Accentuate the Italian style by layering braided bracelets,
even on the side of your watch (Lip Himalaya here).
Traditional bracelets (from left to right): Sri Lankan, Breton and Swedish (H&M).
The importance of material composition
Don't be impressed by the material, it's a piece that is very easy to wear. De Fursac always does a great job of choosing elegant materials, but with a little something extra that is difficult to find elsewhere.
Here, we have a nice touch of originality, without falling into an extreme. The fabric is 55% linen and 45% silk (still developed by Lanificio Cerruti ). I particularly like this light blue speckling which makes the jacket brighter.
A really nice texture.
Why use linen and silk?
Characteristics of silk
Silk is an animal fiber, produced by silkworms (caterpillars, in fact).
Cocoons which will be used to pull the silk fibers.
- It insulates from the cold in winter and from the heat in summer (= thermoregulating).
- The fibers are strong and do not deform (which counterbalances the flexibility of linen).
- It is pleasant to the touch.
- It makes the room bright (a good omen in summer).
Characteristics of linen
Flax fiber is obtained by “retting”: maceration outdoors, to separate the fibers from the flax stem (the plant).
A flax flower (to offer to Zia Maria).
- It is thermoregulatory.
- It is comfortable.
- It gives volume: you can clearly distinguish the warp from the weft.
Note from Benoît: linen also provides an interesting texture, quite irregular and more relaxed compared to simple wool.
Note from Geoffrey: mixing silk and linen helps reduce the creasing nature of linen, while benefiting from its absorbent properties (the skin remains dry), and its strong resistance to abrasion.
The finishes of the De Fursac jacket
The jacket is not lined for greater comfort in summer. During hot weather, you will feel the difference compared to a lined jacket.
The finishes are correct for this price range (535 euros) . The inside of the sleeves is lined in viscose (not polyester): this is a good point, because it makes it more breathable.
You can see the assembly work done so that the jacket maintains a beautiful structure, while letting the piece live.
As usual, the buttons overlap (Italian style).
The Prince of Wales shirt
Persol Capri glasses.
I'm from the same school as Alex (our white Kanye West): I don't tuck my shirts into my pants . So I followed one of these two pieces of advice from Benoît, it’s up to you to guess which one:
- “ Luca, Coco-Mat mattresses are like entering another world. Everyone has the right to their own dream, so one day I will have one. ”
- “ Everyone should have at least one formal shirt in their wardrobe. ”
You will have understood, I immediately bought a Coco-Mat mattress. After all, I too have the right to my share of dreams. Then, when in doubt, I told myself that a nice shirt was also worth it.
All joking aside, you'll always need a nice shirt. If you want to move away from plain white, a subtle Prince of Wales pattern is a very good alternative.
Having a tone-on-tone pattern gives richness to the garment. If you look at the fabric from a distance, you will just see reflections. But up close, the fabric is totally different, the patterns give it relief.
Here, the pattern is very discreet, well blended into the material,
almost invisible from 2 meters away.
It's truly a summer shirt. Egyptian cotton is really very soft: you almost don't feel the fabric on your shoulders. It's super nice. It is available here .
The collar is deliberately more flexible, this brings lightness to the shirt. The Italians love that too.
The shoulder falls well, no excess material (the sleeve is rolled up).
The finishes of the De Fursac shirt
For the price of 135 euros , you will be entitled to 7 points per cm (this is a good quality/price ratio given the level of manufacturing). After 5 washes, the shirt has not changed. It still takes the light just as well and I'm very happy.
They did not forget the little swallow (outside) for reinforcement.
The buttons are cross-stitched for added strength.
Small downside: no French seam.
I invite you to look at the rest of the collection. As usual, original materials are there, with more pronounced touches of color. The quality/price ratio is good, and becomes very interesting on certain pieces during their private sales.
Note: thanks to Jacques Shu (press manager at De Fursac) for allowing us to organize this test.
