Different countries, different styles of costumes
When we give you advice on costume, we do it each time with a very European angle (obviously). However, other schools exist, and even from one European country to another, there are differences.
The most obvious are undoubtedly those between the style of the Italians and that of the English.
Italian style
Italians tend to display colorful styles, sometimes exuberant , often garnished with small accessories and a beautiful watch (Laurent from Milanese Special Selection speaks of this very well).
Their big thing at the moment is this accumulation of little bracelets.
Notched lapels, small details, natural cut, and a certain nonchalance. We are still swimming here in full Italian style.
Another very Italian suit cut, here with pagoda shoulders.
There is no single Italian style, but on average, the shoulders tend to be quite natural (little padding at the shoulder: the famous "padding"), and the tailoring is light, less structured. We will therefore find few hyper fitted jackets with very structured shoulders (but the shaping will remain present). Especially since the buttons of the jacket are rather low (hence a fairly exposed chest), which also does not lead to a huge shaping effect.
The clothing is more fluid : that is to say, it hugs the body instead of imposing a posture on it. However, this respect for the wearer's body requires... that the wearer respects his body: as much as athletic silhouettes will be sublimated, excess weight and slightly difficult body shapes will only be slightly corrected by the Italian style.
Extremely casual sleeved pieces in color, but also and above all, in cut. Pay close attention to the shoulders.
The pants are quite long : we often talk about “cigarette” cuts (I think that’s very explicit).
Again these very supple shoulders, and the cigarette pants.
There is also an apparent simplicity in the cuts , which further highlights the stylistic originalities that their wearers allow themselves.
The spirit with which our transalpine neighbors dress is also different: an Italian seeks to express a part of his personality , to display both elegance and a certain nonchalance (which remains respectful of the gaze of others): l The alliance of the two is called sprezzatura . Social codes being less present in clothing, you can do more what you want in Italy, as long as it is done with taste.
Lots of small details that remind each other.
English style
The Anglo-Saxon style is both heavier and more codified . In question, its origins which go back to the military uniform.
The jacket is fitted and structured : it is above all designed to impose a straight and formal posture. This is found in a more rigid tailoring among Anglo-Saxon tailors. It is therefore a style well suited to slightly difficult physiques, because it restructures the morphology instead of hugging it, with an overall hourglass silhouette. I also feel like jackets tend to have necklines that go up quite high.
Very structured silhouettes:
it is the costume, not the wearer's body, that decides the final silhouette.
Trousers occupy a more important place in the Anglo-Saxon style than in their Latin counterparts (French and Italian). In our clothing culture, pants are just a match for shoes. A connection that allows you to integrate the jacket and highlight it while disappearing.
However, pants tend to be as important as the jacket for the Anglo-Saxons. We find more imposing and more architectural pieces. Pliers are commonplace, as are tightening buckles. Note also that it often rises higher.
-> We can clearly see, on this beautiful sample of the know-how of the tailors of Savile Row (the historic costume district in the suburbs of London), the rigid and structuring aspect of British tailoring, all in an hourglass shape. Click on this image to enlarge it.
Among the Americans, we will have less curve than among the Europeans, but more generous shoulders than among the English (with or without padding, depending on the era), for a masculine and powerful (even heavy) silhouette .
Massive and fitted build, loose pants.
The smallest whippersnapper is given a shoulder build, with jackets like these, very American.
The garment is also more comfortable because it is less fitted , in accordance with the preppy heritage (on this subject, there is a good article on Parisian Gentleman , by Chris Hogan, of the American blog Off the Cuff ).
Imposing shoulders, generously cut pants: we are in the US.
The character of Pete Campbell, whose costume color I really like.
That said, it is very relative : the tastes of young workers across the Atlantic are evolving quickly, and today tend towards more Italian styles: a phenomenon undoubtedly helped by the popularization of events like Pitti Uomo in Florence . And that's what we're going to see in this test of the suit brand Black Lapel , which comes to us from New York.
-> A J-Crew suit, an American mass-market brand (therefore made to please as many people as possible). We see that there is not much left of the heritage of the classic American suit, except the cut of the top of the pants.
And in France ?
We are on the border of all these styles.
Don Draper, in Mad Men. Jacques Chirac, new icon of “chic/nothing to worry about” style.
In terms of spirit, a Frenchman will not take risks on colors and cuts : the Frenchman is more fond of minimalist elegance, without taking risks, in relatively plain tones and basic colors. The costume is not the expression of its wearer, but more a means of conforming and falling into line. French elegance is intended to be discreet.
You only have to see the reaction of colleagues in the office to someone who has tried a knitted tie, colorful socks, or Prince of Wales patterns that stand out from the tone on tone: he is instantly seen as someone 'one of originality, or a man of taste if it is well executed. The good thing is that with just a few touches, anyone who wants to stand out positively can easily do so.
In terms of cut, the suit is structured but not too much , the whole body is well defined, with a good part of the chest exposed. Everything remains to a certain extent.
The mix of styles in the Internet age... and current trends
That being said, we must keep in mind that the descriptions of the different styles by country correspond to "pure styles". In fact, each brand and each tailor puts its touch into it, to adapt to particular customers and support the evolution of their expectations.
Indeed, digital media (blogs, micro-blogging platforms and social networks) have largely mixed influences and erased certain national particularities in favor of a more global, more homogeneous style (an opportunity for the French style, already at the crossroads of all the others?).
The same suit cut in New York...
...and in Paris (summer 2013 lookbook by Melinda Gloss).
We can clearly see a current trend which can be summarized as follows:
- shoulders with little padding (but a little nonetheless),
- collars that are not too wide, often with notches positioned quite high,
- rather narrow armholes,
- a tendency to shorten the length of jackets,
- a very high armpit and crotch,
- pants cut close to the body,
- and a sometimes short pant length.
And season after season, we feel a return to slightly wider cuts, with less shaping, and lapels that widen a little too. The short length of the pants and the jacket, on the other hand, tend to remain this year again (but this will inevitably disappear again in a few months or years).
Now let's see if Black Lapel obeys this observation of the homogenization of trends!
What is Black Lapel? Who is it ?
Black Lapel is a young New York suit brand, specializing in made-to-measure tailoring.
All their costumes revolve around a given pattern but there are many customizations, particularly on important points such as the bend or the pleats of the pants.
For ordering, everything is done via their website, which is very well done, and which also has an excellent blog: The Compass (in English). As is often the case with this type of service, the limits of the model are to ensure that the customer takes their measurements correctly (which is more complicated than it seems, especially since the measurements are never taken alone) .
In my case, it was Jay, Black Lapel's Customer Service Director, who took my measurements directly.
Steel blue suit test - by Geoffrey
I fell in love with this steel blue suit ( Solid Light Charcoal Blue model). It's an intermediate color between blue and gray, which you don't usually see in ready-to-wear, but which has always spoken a lot to me.
I also really liked the costume of Pete Campbell's character in the American series Mad Men, in the same color. And I had always wondered where I would one day be able to find something similar. So when I recognized this color among the selection of Black Lapel materials, I said “banco”!
-> The canvas is a beautiful wool weave, a little textured, with pretty reflections.
-> I decided to wear the costume while remaining on a simple range of colors, but playing on a monochrome of colors (several colors from the same palette), and especially on the contrasts of materials to give body to the outfit .
The shirt is from Melinda Gloss, and it's actually an extremely fine houndstooth pattern, in blue and red. It's not really a business shirt, and it's a little small after sports, but I found that the materials combined really well. As for the bow tie, it is in chambray, and comes from Naked & Famous. With Tabuba shoes (brand which unfortunately disappeared last year). And the little bracelet is nothing more than a strip of leather that I usually tie around my wrist, it's my Pirates of the Caribbean side .
-> We see that it is very well cut, from the first fitting, with a perfect fit (slight tension folds which start from the plexus, the fabric hugs the body without molding me, well placed back). No need to do any retouching. The quality of manufacture is very good, but Benoît will tell you more about it later in the article.
-> I like this kind of fairly cool blend in summer.
-> Only small downside, the top of the darts on the chest which are a little marked by a tiny hollow which is visible depending on the direction of the light. But really, I'm quibbling.
On the other hand, we can clearly see the presence of a space between the collar of my shirt and the collar of the jacket: the collar is not pressed against my neck. But it's not at all a problem with the cut of the jacket : I have a lot of volume in the back because of boxing. And one shoulder a little lower than the other, always because of the boxing guard, where you tuck your chin a little into the hollow of the shoulder. Some tailors will solve this type of problem with additional padding in the lower shoulder. And the back is also flat with a little touch-up. If I want the perfect suit, these are the two alterations I'll have to ask for.
-> Let's talk a little about the pants. Yes, it is loose in the thighs. No, that's not a mistake. We are simply in the American style, favoring comfort, through the use of clips (a sort of bellows that open and close depending on the sitting or standing posture). Note that the jacket is also very rigid: we are far from the Italian style (which is not a problem in itself, just a question of personal taste).
Update: This is not the cut of pants that I would recommend for a first suit, but it can be a perfectly acceptable choice to change from the eternal cigarette pants. To be looked at with a little perspective compared to European canons.
-> Here we can clearly see the front darts (and the slightly small shirt).
-> At the buttocks, volume too. Knowing that you always need a little to facilitate comfort, especially if you have thighs that are a little strong or tend to give up the ghost to your pants due to wear of the crotch (the part where all the seams meet at the junction between your legs).
-> The back is clean. Just a little crease behind the armpits. But the surface is very smooth, despite the usually quite protruding shoulder blades.
-> There are of course many pockets, and a beautiful viscose lining, not polyester: this is important. In fact, viscose is a cellulose fiber, and therefore has the breathable properties of cotton. Conversely, polyester is not very breathable and makes you sweat. It's particularly uncomfortable when it's hot or when you're wearing your coat on public transport in winter.
A good point for the viscose lining therefore (by the way, it is an indicator of quality when you are wondering about a particular brand or jacket).
-> Last detail that I love: showing my underwear to old ladies the non-slip strip so that the shirt stays in place in the pants, especially when you sit down, then get up, then 'we sit, then we get up, then we sit down, then we get up, then we sit down, then we get up, then we sit down , then we get up, then we sit down, then we get up, then we sit down, then we get up, then we sit down, then we gets up during the day at the office, or does crossfit in a suit, which I strongly advise against .
-> And because I really like the jacket and it's not too long, I like to pair it with pants. Here, always the same blue and red houndstooth patterned shirt, and striped canvas pants, from Marchand Drapier.
Test of the light gray Prince of Wales suit - by Benoît
The choice of fabric
Given that I no longer have to wear a strict suit every day, and that I have fairly classic colored suits in my wardrobe, I wanted to try a fabric that is rarely discussed on the blog: the Prince of Wales:
Example of Prince of Wales pattern (Plaid in English).
A pretty bright gray that I like - Gray Glen Plaid model
Why this fabric? I didn't want a simple gray, but I didn't want a color that was too eccentric. And then, I had already seen some very beautiful looks with Prince of Wales fabrics, which really inspired me.
The cup
My requirements have not changed over the years: I wanted a "one button", and very simple slanted pockets, because I appreciate the dynamic side of these two elements together.
First impressions at reception
When I take the suit out of its elegant packaging, I am impressed by the quality of the finishes: open buttonholes, horn buttons (which overlap slightly on the sleeves, I love this detail), half-moons on the pockets, reinforcements at the crotch level, etc. Generally speaking, everything is very clean and neat: the buttonholes are impeccably made, and the embroidery is rigorous:
At least we know who owns this costume! Note the half-moon reinforcements at the pockets and the reinforcement at the armpit.
At the fitting
I put on the jacket and there, nice surprise: it's perfectly cut. The jacket is canvassed (no, it's not semi-canvassed, but full canvassed), which makes it super comfortable and flexible to wear. As usual, I will ask you to judge the outfit and not my usual photogenic:
-> Perfect bend, really. There is certainly a very small defect at the shoulder, and the collar breaks very (but very) slightly, but one would have to be in bad faith to denigrate the quality/price ratio of Black Lapel. And the sleeves are well fitted, another point on which I pay close attention.
-> Another photo, brighter, in order to clearly distinguish the details and the bending. Do you see this almost absence of crease on the bust even though the curve is well marked? This is thanks to the jacket's interlining, without heat-sealing, which allows for an incomparable drape and a very appreciable purity in terms of cut. The comfort is felt: everything is more flexible, lighter, and more pleasant to wear.
-> The lapel buttonhole is well executed, I like it. I just wish the reinforcement point between the tip of the lapel and the collar was less visible, but I'm quibbling. I'm wearing a Husbands shirt and tie , we won't do it again ;). Purists will complain that the point of the shirt collar should be hidden under the jacket, but it might be time to understand that we live in a world where clothes are not made like perfectly interchangeable Legos, and most importantly, they MOVE with the wearer.
-> It's almost flawless on the back, with a scalpel cut. However, the jacket maintains its comfort and is never too tight.
However, I should have taken pants without pleats. I wanted to try this cut out of curiosity. And if the dart gives volume to the thigh and a bit of an old school look, it's not my style, I prefer more fitted thighs. On the other hand, it is indeed very comfortable.
-> Note the reinforcement points at the top and bottom of the pocket. We can clearly see the gripper at the thigh, and the volume that it traps and releases depending on the wearer's position. Some people appreciate its comfort, but that's not my case.
Verdict?
I obviously recommend! How can you not be thrilled by the perfectly respected cut and top finishes?
If placing your order doesn't scare you, it's clearly one of the best value for money in terms of quality. For these costumes, we cost around €500 or €550 (by checking the full interlining option), for production made in a workshop in China (but which is nevertheless of good quality, I would like to point out again), and customer service located in New York.
However, be careful when taking measurements, an extremely crucial point. Do not hesitate to get help from Black Lapel customer service if you are an English speaker.
The link to their website is here .
New in the meantime at Black Lapel
Jae and Ben regularly choose new materials for costumes. The latest ones for winter are particularly nice for those who would like a change from the traditional gray suit (flannel with Prince of Wales patterns, or blue checks).
The kind of very easy color, but which allows you to give body to an outfit. Often, I notice that those who have now mastered the basics (good size, good cut, good quality) then confine themselves to clothes all in solid colors, and in very standard shades . The result is often an outfit that is a little too "flat", in flat areas of color, where different materials (here flannel for a more raw side) or patterns (checks, houndstooth, Prince of Wales , fine stripes) would have improved the outfit without any risk. Think about it if you make this observation about your outfits! 
Note from Geoffrey: Thanks to Hugo from Parisian Gentleman who guided me in my research (with this article in English which talks about the different schools and gives you tips for taking advantage of them. And also this one which presents the different types shoulders depending on the country ). Milanese Special Selection and the DePiedEnCap forum were also valuable reads.
