Among the recurring sources of inspiration for men's fashion, some simply seem inexhaustible as we find them again and again.
This is the case of military inspiration: for decades - or even centuries if we look more closely - pieces worn by the armed forces have continued to be reused by civilians, first for practical reasons, then for style.
I told you about chinos last September, but we could also cite the example of the bomber jacket or even the t-shirt , or even jodhpur boots !
Also, allow me to present to you today the piece which, despite its passage to the status of "classic" for men, remains the most inseparable from its military origins : the M-65 field jacket !
A brief history of the M-65 field jacket
You may remember our episode of “ In the locker room of…” with Gauthier Borsarello ? We interviewed him about his job as a vintage expert and accomplished bargain hunter.
To be sure not to miss any anecdotes about the history of this piece with very strong roots, I went to chat with him over coffee. And after having benefited from an accelerated lesson on its technical details, their evolution and its rise in popular culture, I propose to share with you what I was able to gather...
Our friend Gauthier, expert and vintage enthusiast, told me everything there was to know about the original model of this iconic jacket.
A functional part to meet the requirements of the US Army
"M-65" is short for "Model-1965". It is normal that the jacket is named after its date of creation: it is the improved version of two successive generations of field jackets, the M-43 and the M-51.
It was therefore created as part of an effort to improve military equipment, achieved thanks to the experience of soldiers in the field. Its design was entrusted to Alpha Industries , the largest supplier to the US Army at the time, which had already created the MA-1 flight jacket
The specifications of this field jacket
A piece designed to hold up in very difficult conditions.
Thus, Alpha Industries offered the army a jacket with a certain number of technical characteristics, which are often found on current reproductions:
- a “NYCO” fabric, a novelty exclusive to the army at the time, a nylon-cotton blend designed to resist wind and rain,
- a removable wadding lining to adapt to cooler weather,
- an internal bending cord,
- button tabs on the shoulders, because a soldier always needs an additional attachment point for the many objects he carries,
- four flap pockets with press studs, quicker and easier to use than the classic buttons of an M51,
- triangular extensions stored inside the sleeves (thanks to a Velcro system), to cover the hands in case of wind. Practical in certain specific situations, they nevertheless presented some disadvantages in everyday life: it was very complicated to wear the jacket with the sleeves rolled up, and the feeling caused by these flaps was quite unpleasant around the wrist,
- a straight collar to protect the neck and store a foldable hood inside.
The collar of an original model, whose silver zip testifies to its manufacture dating from before 1972.
Note that it is very rare today to find an authentic example that still has its hood: due to its support system when it was deployed, it cluttered the GI's in the field and did not really fit well on the head .
Consequently, the majority simply decided to cut it out. This is perhaps the biggest flaw of this piece in its original version. (Don’t worry, we obviously fixed it on ours!)
Interesting anecdote for collectors : Gauthier told me that from 1965 to 1972, the zips were made of aluminum, while after 72, we started making them in brass. So be aware that if you find a surplus M-65, in a thrift store or at a flea market one day, the first one is much rarer. Especially in good condition!
A symbol popularized by cinema
As with all military-inspired pieces, the popularization of the M-65 takes place according to a pattern that we know well: veterans return from Vietnam accompanied by their faithful M-65 , at the same time making a "fashion statement"
At the same time, the army had a very large surplus to distribute after the conflict, and the company which designed the jacket decided to also launch into production intended for the public market.
Here we have the first elements which allow the M-65 to become accessible to the population, both in terms of visibility and purchase.
On the left, an "anti-war" demonstrator against the Vietnam War, wearing an M51.
Obviously, it was the cinema of the time that made the difference in people's minds, propelling the jacket to the status of iconic clothing .
Al Pacino in Serpico ; Robert DeNiro in Taxi Driver ; Sylvester Stalone in Rambo "First Blood" ... Big names with a powerful resonance in popular culture, even though some had only just achieved stardom.
DeNiro, aka Travis Bickle in Taxi Driver. The M-65 field jacket is an integral part of the character, a psychologically disturbed Vietnam veteran.
Given its origins, the M-65 already had a strong connotation. But once she found herself associated with films and actors on the verge of becoming true myths, she ended up conquering the public.
A piece hijacked by countercultures
It was also reused by many post-Vietnam countercultures and subcultures in the United States: from bikers to "anti-war" hippies, including the Black Panthers... Everyone customized it, often by using paintings, embroidery, pins...
The symbolism is all the stronger as these groups appropriated military attributes to integrate them into the codes of their demands.
A member of the Black Panthers, wearing a military jacket. A military symbol diverted to serve the party's ideas of "self-defense".
Why make an M-65?
After our technical fabric softshell , we wanted to revisit the light mid-season jacket through natural materials and assumed military origins. It is an influence dear to Benoît and many members of the team.
A beautiful M-65 kills two birds with one stone: it brings a lot of character to an outfit, while being completely timeless . It was relevant 40 years ago, it will still be relevant in 10 years.
Men have been carrying M-65s for almost fifty years and still, we only talk about civilians.
It is probably its perfect balance between aesthetics and function which has earned it this canonization: despite its above all practical design, the lines of the 4 pockets have a certain purity which almost involuntarily gives the piece a relaxed "sartorial" dimension.
In the United States, it has conquered both urban and rural areas. And because of this timelessness, military style can often play the role of a “bridge” between formal pieces and other very casual ones.
Therefore, it is easy to understand why an M-65 can be worn over a light casual shirt or a t-shirt and sneakers for sunny days, as well as as additional protection in the fall, with a blazer. and brogues. Or even a “sport” suit!
Pitti Uomo regulars won't tell you the opposite: the M-65, here in its sharper "camo" version, is so versatile that it even goes well with a blazer
Its origins have also made it a central piece for any self-respecting "adventurer" style: it is the ideal companion for the adventurer , the photographer, the reporter, the lover of long walks in the forest and trips through the world.
A water-repellent gabardine from the Italian house Larusmiani
A forest green canvas, effective against the rain
From the start of the process of creating the piece, we wanted to start with a 100% cotton gabardine with a water-repellent treatment to protect you from light rain .
Compared to the cotton-nylon of the original model, it is also a choice which has the advantage of offering even more breathability , while maintaining a certain protection against the elements.
Color-wise, we turned to a forest green shade, which is both masculine and easy to wear . The gabardine is also slightly satiny and catches the light nicely, which gives this M-65 a slightly more sophisticated appearance than usual.
A forest green canvas that will protect you from light rain.
As for the lining, it is 100% viscose . Soft and breathable, it also has the advantage of not clinging and it has the breathable properties of cotton (it is a cellulose-based fiber). Perfect for layering.
A pretty 100% viscose lining for comfort and softness
Larusmiani, a spinning mill accustomed to luxury houses
It was at Larusmiani that we found our happiness...
Maison Larusmiani, one of the Italian spinning mills of choice recommended for brands that manufacture the most high-end chinos!
As you could see in the video, Larusmiani - a three-generation family business - is very rooted in innovation. It is this bias that allowed him to develop modern and luxurious fabrics at a time when ready-to-wear was being built.
Like us, Larusmiani is driven by a perpetual search for quality . They also create some high-end, handmade clothing, which they distribute in their own store. To this day, it is the oldest sign on the famous Via Monte Napoleone
A modernized cut and aesthetic
Always with the aim of offering you an urban piece, we have opted for a smooth and well-designed shoulder which will highlight your build , rather than placing the usual button tabs there.
The cut is adjusted exactly as it should , less "loose" than what was done on the models of yesteryear.
To give a more urban side to the piece, the cut is fitted and flatters the silhouette of its wearer.
Furthermore, we played with the four emblematic snap button pockets of the M-65: their shape has been reworked with a slight asymmetry on the flap. We thus create diagonal lines, emphasizing the bust and marking the waist .
Luca contemplates the harmonious shape of the pockets of his new jacket.
Obviously, the flaps benefit from a solid reinforcement point on each side to ensure their durability over time.
The details, it's all in the details!
A hood that won't fail you
Special work has been done on the hood to make it easily foldable.
Unlike that of the GI's sent to Vietnam, it is easy to use and fits the head well thanks to the side snap buttons .
So you won't have to cut it with scissors out of frustration, as they often had to do!
A hood that surrounds the head well.
A happy Luca.
Cuffs to tighten according to your convenience
We have also used the circular Velcro fastening tabs from the V2 softshell, to best adapt to climatic conditions and the different ways of wearing the parka.
Tighten them to insulate yourself in bad weather and gales; loosen them to easily roll up the sleeves and wear it with a t-shirt on sunny days.
And hop ! Once the clamp is engaged, Luca is protected from the spring rain!
Another detail inherited from its cousin the softshell: metal eyelets have been placed in the armpits to improve air circulation .
Strong YKK zippers
We chose to use black zips from YKK's Vislon© range, which is the brand's "high-performance" offering, used by the biggest names in techwear.
This model has a metal slider for durability, and teeth in a plastic chosen for its perfect glide. It is a range renowned for its reliability and solidity.
Zips that are efficient and comfortable to use. No more clashes!
The color complements that of the gabardine well, it gives it a little technical aspect which does not displease us!
As on the original, a flap with press studs covers the main zip in case of bad weather and protects you a little more. It can also be used to only partially close the jacket, like a blazer for example.
An adjustable fit...
An internal drawstring allows you to adjust the fit.
Do you want a very pronounced waist for a slightly more dressed look? No problem. More room for your layering? It works too!
A drawstring to adjust the fit. You can also see the row of snaps to close the flap.
How to wear an M65 military parka?
As you know, white pants are one of the fundamentals of Italian style. It is not uncommon to see our transalpine friends wearing it with a military parka, as Luca does here. The whole remains elegant, notably thanks to the cut of the field jacket and the bending cord which outlines the silhouette.
The look is constructed by layering , that is to say from several layers of clothing. One of the advantages of this type of combination is being able to modulate the outfit: by playing with the buttoning of each piece, you can already obtain several possibilities. Thus, the half-open shirt and the collar of the parka spread over the shoulders create volume on the upper body: it is a very good way to support a build.
Wearing all the pieces open, leaving the tee-shirt completely visible, reinforces the nonchalance that emanates from the look. Note the twist on the red bandana surrounding the neck: it's the kind of accessory that personalizes a look in an original way, because it's ultimately not very common. Its bright shade contrasts with the other pieces and enhances the outfit with a warmer touch. (RRL bandana, Maison Cornichon t-shirt, ecru Albiate BonneGueule shirt, Levi's jeans found at Jinji , Converse sneakers)
We find the parka worn with the Polartec bomber jacket, which acts as a "mid-layer". We have a much more raw result than the previous look, the influences are more workwear oriented. Pairing a parka with jeans and boots is an effective combination, giving a very masculine look. You can hardly go wrong! ( BonneGueule technical bomber jacket , BonneGueule Kurabo jeans, Meermin boots)
