Our guide to straight cut pants

I've been wearing straight leg pants since mid-2019 and I'm not going back.

It started with a pair of Norse Projects jeans . Then a pair of Officine Générale pants. And it hasn't stopped since. This article, by the way, traces my conversion to straight pants.

I realized that the straight cut is made for my body shape, especially for my slightly thicker than average thighs. I learned to love the comfort and style that the fullness allows.

Today I think that pants are an essential item of clothing and that they can define an outfit on their own.

And I would add that it is a garment that is still underestimated by many, who focus more on the top of their outfits (with a particular reflection on layering ) and who neglect the bottom. It's like at the gym: you have to think about your legs too!

At BonneGueule, we've talked a lot about the interest in fitted trousers: here for example . To the point where some people now fear looser volumes. I understand that some people are reluctant or don't understand this stylistic trend. But I think it's a bit of a shame to reject it outright, without looking any further.

Because I think that beyond the fitted cut that you know and that reassures you, straight cuts also have a lot to offer.

(Of course, this doesn't mean I want to convert everyone to straight cuts.)

Maybe straight leg pants are for you but you didn't know it yet.

But why this transition from the adjusted to the right?

Some people are probably wondering: “ But where does this fashion for straight pants that we have seen in recent years come from? Fitted cuts are great! ”

It is a complex, almost sociological question.

Here is my (necessarily partial) reflection on this subject: in my opinion, it is the logical continuation of things. After the baggy jeans trend of the 90s and 2000s, slim jeans took over in the 2010s, notably thanks to Hedi Slimane and his “rock chic” silhouettes offered by Dior and Saint-Laurent. In France, brands like Bill Tornade , The Kooples or Sandro have contributed a lot to the popularization of fitted silhouettes.

Of course, the work of BonneGueule, especially its beginnings, also played a role.

But today, after 10 years, things are changing and pants are getting wider again.

This movement finds its echo in all universes:

• In the streetwear environment: characterized by ample volumes, it has invaded the catwalks and collections of luxury brands in recent years and has greatly influenced today's masculine style, much more casual compared to 10 years ago.
• In classic elegant styles: the trousers have always been wide.
• In workwear and military : volume is part of the DNA of these styles

Photo sources: Needles, Thomas Farthing , Nigel Cabourn

And in a very pragmatic way, the return of looser pants can also be explained by their comfort (after 10 years of slim, it makes sense to want a little more ease) and by the fact that they can dress more legs (we'll come back to this point later).

If you want to dig deeper into this idea of ​​trends and cycles in fashion, I invite you to watch this great video by Nicolò .

When can a pair of pants be considered straight?

20cm.

To put it simply, we can consider that a pair of pants starts to be straight when their leg opening is around 20cm for a size M (so 48IT or 31US).

If you are a small size pant, this figure may tend towards 19cm. If you are a large size pant, this figure may tend towards 21cm.

But 20cm is good. It's easy to remember.

To be a little more precise, straight pants have ease at the leg opening but also at the thighs: let's say that from 33cm in the thighs (for a M), we arrive at a straight cut.

Straight cut pants are made for you if...

(Agreeing with just one of these statements is enough)

( Sorry Jordan I took your title , it's good)

1. You have muscular thighs or calves

If you have larger than average legs, you should wear straight pants.

I still see too many men with muscular legs wearing tight pants that make them look tight and sausage-like. It's neither very aesthetic nor very comfortable.

What you have to keep in mind (and as Nicolò said) is that the names of the cuts always designate a rendering in relation to a standard, often with average to thin legs.

If you have muscular legs, you should wear straight cuts... because it really won't be that baggy on you. On the contrary, it will be just right for your body type.

A pair of pants that are considered straight on average legs, will look slim on your wider legs.

In the two photos above, these are the same pants ( Good Quality ).

On the left, it is worn by the brand's model, who has slim legs. On the right, it is worn by Michel, who has quite muscular legs.

On Michel, the pants don't look that big.

2. You tend to crack your pants in the crotch.

The main reason why pants crack at the crotch is because there is too much friction between your thighs and the material of the pants. This friction damages the fabric and it eventually gives way.

Looser pants result in less friction, therefore more fabric strength and more durability for the pants.

This advice is of course valid for people with muscular legs, but also for anyone who cycles or does large movements on a daily basis.

3. You want more comfort

I mentioned this above, but straight pants are so much more comfortable.

Maybe the fitted ones aren't that uncomfortable for you. You're used to wearing them, maybe for years. Maybe you wear pants with spandex, which helps with comfort.

But trust me: try straight pants and you will quickly see the difference.

The natural freedom of movement afforded by the breadth is a real joy that is hard to do without once you have tasted it.

4. You want to explore other stylistic horizons and assert your style

The breadth is a wonderful breeding ground for stylistic expression.

Let me explain.

To develop a personal and varied style, you can vary the colors, the universes (workwear, sartorial, sportswear, etc.), the materials... and the cuts.

By definition, fitted is restricted because it must be close to the body and follow the legs. Of course, pants can be more or less fitted but still, the room for maneuver remains small.

Opening up to breadth opens up new possibilities of style. There are many widths to explore: moderate breadth, generous breadth, (almost) excessive breadth, etc.

For example, straight pants allow you to move towards more nonchalant silhouettes, which are often found in soft tailoring .

There is this idea of ​​keeping a certain elegance through the shapes and materials used, but which is broken by the relaxation of a larger volume.

Look at the silhouettes at Stoffà : they feed on this breadth, at the top but also at the bottom. You wouldn't find this attitude with fitted trousers.

5. To balance certain morphological peculiarities

Dressing well means, among other things, choosing clothes that harmonize with our body, that hide our imperfections . In this respect, I see two cases where wearing straight pants can positively help your silhouette:

• If you have (very) long legs

If you are tall with long, thin legs, fitted pants can accentuate the length of your legs and give them a “matchstick” effect.

Wearing looser pants can help minimize this elongated visual effect.

Above, on the left you have a fitted jean (source: 2tall) which gives the effect of really slim legs, while on the right you have a straight jean (source: Berg&Berg ) which balances the silhouette more.

We still see that the gentleman is slender, but in more reasonable proportions. The pants do not lengthen him excessively.

• To avoid a "big feet" effect

Pants with a fitted ankle can accentuate the size of your feet.

This will be even more the case if 1/ the pants are very tight and 2/ if you wear elongated, “pointed” shoes.

In this case, my advice is to wear slightly looser pants and slightly more rounded shoes to rebalance the proportions.

On the left, you have a well-fitting pair of jeans with slightly elongated shoes: a typical example of silhouettes that give a "big feet" effect, which I don't find very harmonious.

On the right, straight pants (source: Officine Générale ) which cover the shoe more and avoid a "big feet" effect.

My advice for getting into straight-cut pants if you're not used to them

By the power of my words, you are now convinced. You are now ready to try the straight cut.

Well done.

But concretely… how to do it? Here is my advice to help you embark on this adventure without being completely destabilized.

1. Take it slow

If you've been wearing fitted pants for years, I don't necessarily recommend switching to very baggy pants all at once.

Getting comfortable with loose fits can take time. Start with straight pants that are not too baggy.

Aim for pants with measurements close to the dimensions I mentioned above. For a M, 33cm in thigh width and 20cm in leg opening.

For example, I find the volume of our Renji straight leg jeans to be particularly good: it’s wide enough that you can really feel the difference from a fitted jean, but it’s not so wide that it’s confusing either. It has a well-balanced fit, and I think that’s one of the reasons it’s so popular with our customers.

More generally, a pair of straight-cut or “regular fit” jeans or chinos from another brand will be suitable to introduce you to the (wonderful) world of the straight cut.

And once you've been introduced to the straight cut, you can decide whether you want to continue on this path and stay on similar volumes, or if you feel like going a little wider.

2. Choose materials that hold up well

People who are not used to straight volumes sometimes complain of “floating” in them.

Straight, flowing pants will flow around your legs, going left and right, and can accentuate this floating feeling.

To counteract this effect, it seems appropriate to me to start your straight pants adventure with a model in a material that holds up well.

(Of course, once you get used to straight cuts, it will be easier for you to move on to straight, flowing pants.)

Above I was talking about jeans and this is a good example: you can relatively easily find jeans with fabrics that hold up well.

To take another example, I have in mind the balloon pants from De Bonne Facture . They are quite wide but their material is a thick cotton twill that falls straight. Of course, the thighs and calves do not “touch” the material much when you wear them, but their weight helps to give structure to your silhouette.

3. Wear your (dressier) pants with a center crease

It's a detail you've probably seen on suit pants: the central pleat.

It's a simple ironing fold in the middle, along the entire length of the leg. But it also has another advantage: this fold pinches the fabric and brings it a little forward . This allows the material to better distribute itself around the wearer's legs and not go too much to the sides.

The fold structures the leg and makes it visually less wide.

I would almost say that the pleat “pulls back” at the leg opening, compared to pants without a pleat.

Visually, pants with a central pleat and a 20cm leg opening will appear less wide than pants without a pleat and also with a 20cm leg opening.

Choose elegant pants with a central crease . This may fade when worn, in which case you will just have to iron it to mark it again.

4. Be careful about length

Wear your straight pants at the right length: not too long, slightly breaking on the shoe or not at all.

Wide, long pants will create a lot of excess fabric at the ankle and may make your figure look shorter.

So yes, we regularly see wide and long pants in very streetwear looks, but it's not necessarily for everyone.

In conclusion

I wish to end this article with a message of peace.

I regularly see vehement posts about fitted and straight cuts. Fitted lovers will bash straight cuts and vice versa.

I find it a shame because there is no need to oppose these two volumes. It is very good that both exist. There is something for everyone. It is only positive to have more variety in volumes. This allows to dress more body types, to correspond to more stylistic preferences.

Everyone can choose a side without necessarily having to spit on the other. I wear straight cuts but I totally understand the appeal of more fitted cuts. In fact, you can even choose both sides by wearing fitted and straight. Crazy, huh?

If you are looking to switch to straight leg pants and are looking for brands that offer them, I invite you to read this article .

You will also find several references of straight pants in the Bonnegueule collection ( Poetto , Otranto , Kamikoshi , Renji , Amarin , etc.).